But before you start, there are a few things you should keep in mind before you craft homemade hand sanitizer. First, it’s crucial that you understand that proper hand washing will always be better than simply rubbing your digits with hand sanitizer. Using the right amount of alcohol-based disinfectant (3 milliliters) for 25 to 30 seconds is fine in a pinch, but soap, water, and a good scrub are the absolute best way to protect yourself against contagious diseases.

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Knowing how to make hand sanitizer is useful if you ever find yourself in the middle of a health emergency like the COVID-19 pandemic. But these and other DIY recipes are only for extreme cases when hand washing is not an option and supplies are low. Professionals use these formulations in underserviced healthcare settings, and if at some point hand sanitizer is not available at local stores, you can use them too.

Lastly, your homemade hand sanitizer won’t last forever. The main active ingredient in the recipes below is isopropyl alcohol, a volatile compound that will evaporate over time and compromise the effectiveness of your hand sanitizer. When alcohol concentration drops below 60%, your hand sanitizer won’t be able to kill COVID-19 or influenza, for example. The shelf life of store-bought hand sanitizers can vary—the industry standard is three years, but it can go up to five. How long your DIY hand sanitizer lasts will depend on the type and size of the container you use and how often you open it, along with room temperature and humidity. Unfortunately, all of these factors make it hard to predict exactly how long your hand sanitizer will be good for, so proceed with caution. 

The WHO has a comprehensive guide on how to make hand sanitizer—the only problem is that if you follow their instructions, you’ll end up with a lot of it. Like, exactly 2.6 gallons of it. If you want to make enough to last you, your family, and all your friends through a zombie apocalypse, you definitely can. But if you want to keep things on a smaller scale, we’ve adapted the measurements for you.

5. Sanitize your spray bottles and pour in your hand sanitizer. Spray some of your leftover alcohol into your bottles and let them sit until the alcohol has evaporated. Then pour in your sanitizer.

6. Label your bottles. Hand sanitizers pose a real risk of involuntary alcohol poisoning, especially among children, who were largely affected by it during the first months of the COVID-19 pandemic. You don’t want anyone to accidentally ingest your newly made hand sanitizer. Take the time to label your bottles with their contents and the date, and keep them away from unsupervised kids.

6. Label your containers. Hand sanitizers pose a real risk of involuntary alcohol poisoning, especially among children, who were largely affected by it during the first months of the COVID-19 pandemic. You don’t want anyone to accidentally ingest your newly made hand sanitizer. Take the time to label your bottles with their contents and the date, and keep them away from unsupervised kids.

The post How to make hand sanitizer appeared first on Popular Science.

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The word “bomb” is not usually associated with positive things. Except in this case, where making seed bombs could help the ecological restoration of your neighborhood. 

Instructions

1. Mix the clay and potting mix. In the bowl, pour the clay and potting mix in a 2:1 ratio. 

The powdered clay acts as a binder and protects the seeds from direct sunlight, insects, and birds. We used green calcium bentonite clay (which doubles as a face mask), but you can use any kind you find at your local store or have at home. If you want seed bombs that look more natural and blend into the soil, you can use red clay powder.

3. Add the seeds. Pour in your seeds in a ratio of 3:1 in relation to the clay mix and combine with your hands or a mixing spoon. You may change this proportion depending on how dense you want plants to grow, but 3:1 is ideal to work in enough seeds.

• Pro tip: You can put multiple types of seeds into your bombs, but be careful how you mix and match: sun-loving plants will thrive in a spot where a shade-loving one will die, while fast-growing greenery might out-perform and suffocate another. Only combine seeds with similar qualities or habitat preferences, or plants that are known to grow well together.

4. Knead and roll the mix into small balls. Use the palms of your hands to shape your bombs. Keep them around half an inch (approximately one centimeter) in diameter. As you finish each one, place them on a tray with enough room between them so they’re not touching—once they dry, it’ll be difficult to break them apart. 

• Pro tip: As you shape your bombs, your clay mix might start drying, making it hard to work with. Keep a bowl of water at hand and add it to the mix in small amounts to bring the desired texture back.

5. Let the seed bombs dry and harden. Leave your tray of seed bombs to rest for a couple of days until they’re fully dry and hard. If you want to speed up the process, place them in direct sunlight, and if you’re leaving them outside, make sure they’re covered in case it rains.

6. Start bombing. Once all of your seed bombs are dry, you can plant them in indoor or outdoor pots, your yard, or in neglected patches of soil you’re allowed to access. You can push them slightly into the soil, leaving the tops uncovered in a sunny spot, but if you prefer to toss them like true bombs, soak them in water for 5 to 10 minutes before bombardment. 

Finding seeds native to your area is easy. You can follow our guide and collect seeds from the plants around you, or you can get them at your local hardware store or nursery. To know what to get, check out the National Wildlife Federation’s Native Plant Finder, which will show you a list of plants and shrubs local to your specific zip code.  

The post Make your own seed bombs to garden on the go appeared first on Popular Science.

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If the thought of friends, family, and coworkers admiring your custom laptop stand isn’t enough to get you picking out wood, let’s circle back to those benefits. By elevating your computer, you raise the screen, which can help reduce eye and neck strain while you’re working. Ideally, the top of your display should be at or just below eye level, so you’re looking down slightly while using it, according to the US Occupational Safety and Health Administration. Much better than craning your neck up or down to see what you’re doing.  

A good laptop stand will also help your computer stay cool. The central processing unit (CPU), memory, and WiFi card are typically the three biggest heat producers in a laptop, says Gregor Angus Berkowitz, a computer engineer and managing partner at GBA, a technical management consultancy in California. This heat comes from the electrical resistance in those units as they consume power to perform their processing functions.  

“It’s kind of a runaway scenario where as they get hotter they become more inefficient and use more power and battery,” Berkowitz says. “If you can keep your CPU and memory cooler, it uses less power.”

Although it’s difficult to damage your computer these days by letting it overheat, your laptop’s internal temperature measurement devices will throttle the CPU and eventually shut down the device before anything catastrophic happens, Berkowitz explains. Still, a hot computer will make your life harder.

The laptop stand I designed has a rail-mounted approach, and includes holes in its side panels to ensure that air can move beneath the laptop from any direction to dissipate heat. It’s also easy to make from scrap wood, and you can modify the design to match any wood you have on hand. I didn’t actually design anything up front—I just stared at the boards I wanted to use until the final vision came to me. I’ll save you that trouble though, and you can just copy mine.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a face mask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

How to build a wooden laptop stand

Stats

• Time: 2 to 4 hours
• Material cost: $5 to $20
• Difficulty: moderate

Materials

• 1 (2- to 3-foot-long) piece of 1-by-6 board
• 5 (1- to 2-inch wide) boards 12 to 13 inches long
• Wood glue

Tools

• Table saw
• Crosscut sled
• Jointer
• Planer
• Tape measure
• Angle finder
• Marking gauge
• Orbital sander
• Router
• Sanding discs (120-, 150-, and 220-grit)
• Clamps
• Drill press (or drill)
• Roundover bit
• (Optional) card scraper

Instructions

1. Choose the dimensions and angle for your laptop stand. These measurements should be based on a few factors. The first is the size of the bottom of your laptop. The stand should be an inch or two narrower than your laptop, left to right, and an inch or so larger than it, front to back. You’ll also want to consider whether it will be dedicated to one laptop, or if multiple people might use it. I made mine 13 inches deep instead of the 11.5 it actually needed to be, for example, so the family member who requested it could keep using it if they got a larger computer in the future.

The second consideration is the height of the stand. Based on the idea that the top of the screen should be at or just below eye level when you’re sitting at your desk, calculate the height needed to raise your laptop that tall. I designed my stand to be about 5 inches tall in the back, which raises the top of the monitor about 15 inches above the desk top.

• Pro tip: Even if you don’t follow my design, Berkowitz cautions that DIY laptop stands should be fairly skeletal, leaving as much of the computer exposed as possible. Placing the laptop on a solid sheet of plywood, for instance, would be adding insulation below, preventing effective heat dissipation.

2. Mill your boards to their final dimensions. This is a project where well-milled boards are important, because there are some precise sizes and joinery involved. I wrote a guide on how to mill wood at home if you need more details, but the steps are pretty straightforward. First, use a jointer to flatten one face and edge of each board so they are at a perfect right angle to one another. Next, run the wood through the planer to its final thickness, in this case around half an inch. Then cut them to their final width on your table saw. If you don’t have a jointer, you can flatten the faces of the boards with a hand plane, or a jointer sled in your planer, and square the edge on your table saw with the help of a level. 

When you’re done milling, you should have seven boards, all about half an inch thick. Adjust these dimensions as needed to fit your computer: 

• 2 (12-by-5-inch) boards for the two side panels
• 4 (12-by-1-inch) pieces for the top and rear braces and the legs
• 1 (12-by-½-inch) piece for the front brace (the computer stop)

3. Cut the angle for the top of the stand. I didn’t precisely measure my angle, but I decided to settle between 15 and 20 degrees after looking at some pictures and doing some testing with my laptop. To find the right slope, I put my laptop down on the desk, then raised the back up with some scrap boards until I found a comfortable typing angle. I measured that with my angle gauge and transferred that slope to the side panels.

To cut the angle easily, and to make sure both were exactly the same, I used a tapering jig. You can buy a fancy one, but it’s easy enough to build your own simple jig with some leftover plywood. 

[Related: The surprising woodworking tools you already have around the house]

Mark the line of your angle on the side panels, then position that line along the edge of the tapering jig. Run both boards through your table saw one at a time, and you’ll end up with perfectly matched angles for the laptop to sit on.  

4. Plan to cut rabbets into the side panels to hold the legs, braces, and computer stop. Rabbets are slots cut into the edges of boards to hold wood together more securely than butting them together. Because one board is inset into another, this kind of joint has both mechanical strength and increased surface area for glue to adhere to.

The easiest way to cut rabbets consistently is with a table saw and a crosscut sled. Measure and mark the positions and depths of each rabbet carefully. I use my wheel marking gauge for this because it’s the most accurate and consistent, but you can use a sharp pencil as well.

Each side panel should have five rabbets, and it may help if you imagine the boards standing on edge, as they will in the final project:

• 2 on the bottom edge to hold the leg pieces
• 1 at the front of the top edge (the lowest part of the angle) to hold the computer stop
• 1 at the back of the top edge to hold the top brace
• 1 in the center of the back edge to hold the rear brace

While the rabbets for the top and rear braces should be as deep as those pieces are thick—so they fit within the original shape of each side panel—the rabbets for the computer stop and legs should be about half the width of those pieces. This means they’ll sit a quarter inch or so higher than the edge of the side panels. Check the photo above if you need a visual guide.

• Note: You may want to test a few board thicknesses for the computer stop—it should rise above the side panel enough that the front of the laptop catches on it, which will vary based on the model you have. 

5. Cut the rabbets. To ensure that the cuts remained consistent across both side boards, I taped the two together with painter’s tape, keeping the edges perfectly flush, and cut them at the same time. Use a flat grind blade on your table saw if you have one, and use multiple passes to cut out each rabbet.

6. Drill ventilation holes in the side boards. When most laptops get too hot, internal fans kick on to circulate the air and move the heat away from delicate electrical components and out the back or bottom of the computer. Some laptops have passive cooling devices like heat pipes—small pipes filled with water or another coolant under a slight vacuum—that carry energy to a fan or radiator at the back of the computer. Whatever the case, if your stand simply traps that heat underneath the device, you’re not doing it any favors.

In order to keep the air flowing beneath my laptop stand, I added openings in the side panels. The easiest way to do this is to drill some holes with a 1.5- to 2-inch Forstner bit, or route out some slots. I decided to get fancy with mine, however, and drilled a series of holes, decreasing in size from 2 inches down to half an inch. These approximately follow the angle of the taper, creating a cool effect that didn’t take a ton of time… OK, that’s a lie—it took over an hour, between planning exactly which bits I wanted to use, how far apart to space the holes, and then drilling. Not to mention the increased sanding time. But I think the end result was worth it.

7. Round over all the exposed corners. This step takes some planning. You’ll want to round over all the outside edges of all the pieces, but not the edges that will be inside a rabbet. Otherwise you’ll get an awkward gap in the corners of the rabbets.

[Related: A beginner’s guide to Shapr3D]

Mark the edges you want to round over, as well as the ones you don’t, and try not to talk yourself into adding more roundovers in the heat of the moment when the router is in your hand. I did a few too many, and while the stand is structurally fine, the little gaps just mock me every time I look at them.

Use a router and whatever size roundover bit you have that makes sense with the aesthetic you’re going for. A router table is even better for this, if you have access to one.  

8. Sand. Sanding small projects like this gets tricky once they’re assembled, especially the interior parts. That’s why it’s a good practice to sand all of your pieces before assembly, even if you know you’ll have to do a bit more sanding later to clean up the seams. I’m lucky enough to have access to a drum sander at my local makerspace, so I used 120-grit sandpaper in that and finished this step in no time, with no hand cramping. Those of you without access to a drum sander, pick up that orbital sander and get cracking.

Ultimately, I decided to assemble the stand in two stages. The first stage was to get the three support boards glued into place, and then I would attach the legs once those were dry. I glued and clamped the rear brace first, using the computer stop as a reference to keep the front from folding in. Then I glued the top brace and computer stop into place, and adjusted everything so the diagonals from corner to corner of the stand were all the same length—that’s the best way to know that a box is actually square.

Once the supports were dry, I glued and clamped the legs in place.

I’m sure there’s a jig you can build to make this clamping process easier if you’re making a lot of laptop stands, but when the glue dried, I was only a sixteenth-inch off corner to corner, which is well within tolerances for this project.  

10. Clean up any glue squeeze-out or residue. No matter how diligent you are with cleaning up glue while it’s wet, there will probably be some stains left over. Clean those up in whatever way works best for you. Sandpaper is the most accessible, but a chisel can be useful to get into those hard-to-reach nooks and crannies. I’m also partial to using a card scraper, though that takes quite a bit of practice to learn to use well—I’m still not great with one.

11. Apply your favorite finish. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the bottle. I like spray-on polyurethane or shellac for a project like this, because it’s fast, easy, and the spray can get into those hard-to-reach areas better than brushes typically can. If you use a spray-on finish, be careful not to linger in one place—this will help you avoid getting runs or drips that you have to sand off. For a perfectly smooth finish, rub the final coat down with a piece of brown paper bag.  

Once the finish is shined up to your liking, you’re done. Plop it down on your desk, elevate that laptop, and listen to the far quieter hum of a laptop fan that isn’t constantly on the verge of overheating. Your ears will thank you, your patience will thank you as you avoid annoying computer slowdowns, and your newly comfortable computer components will thank you too.

The post This DIY laptop stand will help keep your computer cool appeared first on Popular Science.

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Best Overall		Brother XM2701 Sewing Machine		SEE IT	This model is a solid, mechanical sewing machine that offers automated functioning for multiple sewing purposes.
Best Budget		Brother LX3817 Sewing Machine		SEE IT	Here’s a mechanical model that won’t stress the wallet while it offers versatile functioning and ease of use.
Best Computerized		Brother XR9550 Sewing and Quilting Machine		SEE IT	A computerized machine with 165 built-in stitch options along with push-button stitch selection and automated functions.

A great Brother sewing machine meet the needs of the user and provide years of dependable service. Brother Industries Ltd. (the company that manufactures Brother sewing machines) traces its history back more than 100 years. In 1908, Kanekichi Yasui founded the Yasui Sewing Machine company, working at his home in Nagoya, Japan. He repaired industrial sewing machines and manufactured machine parts for local use. When Yasui’s sons inherited his company, they changed the name to Yasui Brothers’ Sewing Machine Company, and the company title eventually shortened to Brother.

Throughout its 114-year history, Brother Industries has developed into a global leader in the design, innovation, and manufacturing of sewing machines. Currently, the company offers one of the most advanced line-ups of innovative machinery for home-sewing pursuits. Its models include reliable sewing machines for basic projects, as well as state-of-the-art, computerized models designed for advanced embroidery, quilting, and crafting. Consumers rely on the best Brother sewing machines to provide quality, value, and features for both utilitarian and creative purposes. Here are our picks of the best Brother sewing machines the company’s impressive line-up.

• Best overall: Brother XM2701 Sewing Machine
• Best computerized: Brother XR9550 Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best for embroidery: Brother SE1900 Sewing and Embroidery Machine
• Best for beginners: Brother CP60X Computerized Sewing Machine
• Best for quilting: Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best budget: Brother LX3817 Sewing Machine

How we chose the best Brother sewing machines

In the process of selecting six Brother sewing machines for our list of recommendations, we drew on personal experience, peer suggestions, and public opinion. We then narrowed it down to 11 different models and accessed the in-depth product details and specifications available on the Brother-USA company website. Then, we selected Brother products that are easily available and read the product descriptions, user impressions, and FAQs on retailer sites. Knowing that various readers bring an array of needs, preferences, and monetary resources to the search, we tried to assemble a diverse assortment of Brother sewing machines for our list.

We considered both computerized and mechanical sewing machines. Although the computerized models exhibit advanced, technological features, many users prefer the simple operating procedures and easy maintenance of the mechanical machines. Additionally, we looked for both computerized and mechanical models that provide automated processes such as needle threading and buttonhole making, as these features make sewing easier and more pleasurable. As a guiding principle, we searched for Brother sewing machines to meet the needs of beginning sewers and those who engage in basic sewing projects, as well as those with more advanced skills and experience in quilting, crafting, and fashion design. We endeavored to present Brother machines that meet the requirements of these various types of sewists. 

The best Brother sewing machines: Reviews & Recommendations

Best overall: Brother XM2701 Sewing Machine

Brother

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Why it made the cut: The Brother XM2701 sewing machine offers versatility as it provides automated features and numerous built-in stitches for advanced sewists along with ease of operation for beginners. 

Specs

• Weight: 12.6 pounds
• Product dimensions: 12.1 x 5.9 x 15.3 inches
• Number of built-in stitches: 27

Pros

• Automatic buttonhole function
• Automatic needle threader
• Both decorative and straight built-in stitches
• 6 interchangeable feet included

Cons  

• Not computerized

The Brother XM2701 sewing machine is easy to operate, making it a viable choice for beginners. On the other hand, it boasts a wide array of stitch options as well as automated features that appeal to experienced sewing enthusiasts. Stitch options include multiple decorative and quilting stitches along with basic, straight stitches for seams and basting. With 27 built-in stitches and 63 stitch functions, users can create crafts, fashions, home decor items, and quilts. 

Although it is not a computerized machine, the XM2701 offers several automated features to make sewing projects go more smoothly and quickly. For example, the automatic needle threader eliminates the frustration and eye strain that come with threading the needle by hand. An automatic, 1-step buttonhole function saves time and ensures consistent, professional-looking results. Additionally, the task of winding the bobbin is an automatic process.

Several convenient features make the XM2701 a popular and versatile sewing machine. The jam-resistant, drop-in bobbin is located on the top of the machine to speed up the sewing process. The work area is brightly lit by an LED light. Additionally, the free arm feature makes it easy to manipulate the fabric when sewing cuffs, sleeves, and pants. 

The XM2701 model includes six interchangeable feet to accomplish multiple sewing tasks, including: Buttonhole foot; Zipper foot; Zigzag foot; Narrow hemmer; Blind stitch; and Button-sewing foot.

Best computerized: Brother XR9550 Sewing and Quilting Machine

Brother

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Why it made the cut: With computerized, push-button stitch selection and automatic functioning, the Brother XR9550 sewing machine offers advanced features for quilters, crafters, and hobbyists as well as sewing artists. 

Specs

• Weight: 10.14 pounds
• Product dimensions: 20 x 13.5 x 17.9 inches 
• Number of built-in stitches: 165

Pros

• Extra-wide sewing surface for large projects
• Push-button stitch selection, including decorative stitches and alphanumeric fonts
• Automatic needle threader
• Protective hard case included

Cons

• Not the best choice for beginners

For the avid sewist who is ready to take their craft to a more sophisticated level, the Brother XR 9550 computerized sewing machine provides numerous features to spark the imagination and facilitate creative success. The machine offers 165 built-in stitches. These include utilitarian and decorative stitches along with heirloom stitches. Choose from among eight different buttonhole styles and the machine will automatically sew a tailored buttonhole around any button. For monogramming and personalizing projects, a selection of 55 alphanumeric stitches facilitates automatically sewing letters, numbers, and symbols onto fabrics. 

Numerous features of this machine provide ease of operation, taking the stress and frustration out of sewing. The built-in stitches are clearly marked on the front of the machine. Simply push a button for the computerized stitch-selection function and a backlit LCD display shows the appropriate choice. Additionally, this machine includes an automatic needle threader and a jam-resistant, top drop-in bobbin.

Quilters appreciate the drop-feed feature that facilitates free-sewing for quilting. The work surface is illuminated with a bright LED light and the extra-wide table allows quilters to handle bulky fabrics and large projects. Alternatively, sewists can use the free arm to sew sleeves, cuffs, and trouser legs.

The XR9550 includes seven interchangeable sewing feet along with accessories, including: Zigzag foot; Buttonhole foot; Button-sewing foot; Overcasting foot; Blind stitch foot; Monogramming foot; Quilting foot; Protective, hard cover; and an Instructional DVD.

Best for embroidery: Brother SE1900 Sewing and Embroidery Machine

Brother

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Why it made the cut: Sewists can achieve artist-quality results in creative DIY projects by choosing from among 138 built-in embroidery designs included in the Brother SE1900 sewing and embroidery machine.

Specs

• Weight: 22.1 pounds
• Product dimensions: 23.19 x 11.54 x 13.43 inches 
• Number of built-in stitches: 138 embroidery designs + 240 built-in stitches

Pros

• Large number of built-in embroidery designs and stitches
• Built-in memory for imported embroidery designs
• Built-in memory for personal, custom-designed stitches
• LCD touchscreen display

Cons

• Not the best choice for beginners

Take your sewing and crafting projects to the artist level with the Brother SE1900 computerized sewing and embroidery machine. Select from among 138 built-in embroidery designs and see them displayed on the large-size, full-color, LCD touchscreen. Alternatively, users can import new designs and save them to the machine. Additionally, the machine is capable of combining designs and storing them in its memory. Measuring 5 inches by 7 inches, the embroidery field provides ample versatility for creative sewists. A hoop is included to facilitate larger embroidery designs, so users are limited only by their imaginations.  

The 240 built-in stitches inspire customizing a plethora of crafting, quilting, and garment-making activities. Among the stitch options, the SE1900 offers 11 built-in fonts for monogramming and personalizing the original projects. Additionally, 10 styles of buttonhole stitches facilitate automatic sewing of precisely sized buttonholes.

Several convenient features of this computerized machine take the effort and frustration out of sewing pursuits. The advanced, automatic needle threader eliminates threading the needle by hand. Instead, the thread inserts precisely through the eye of the needle with a simple press of a lever. The jam-resistant feature facilitates a consistent feed of thread from the top drop-in bobbin, preventing the work delays that come with tangled threads. With a maximum speed of 850 stitches per minute along with labor-saving features for smooth operation, sewing on the SE1900 is an enjoyable and inspiring experience.

To facilitate a broad array of sewing tasks, this machine includes eight interchangeable sewing feet, including: Blind stitch foot; Buttonhole foot; Button fitting foot; Zipper foot; Zigzag foot; Monogramming foot; and Overcasting foot.

Best for beginners: Brother CP60X Computerized Sewing Machine

Brother

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Why it made the cut: The easy-to-use Brother CP60X computerized sewing machine is a top choice for beginners to embark on a learning adventure in the world of sewing, quilting, and crafting.

Specs

• Weight: 14 pounds
• Product dimensions: 16.26 x 6.65 x 12.21 inches 
• Number of built-in stitches: 60

Pros

• Utilitarian and decorative stitches built in
• Automatic needle threader
• Durable metal frame
• Capable of sewing denim and thick fabrics

Cons

• Not capable of monogramming

Use the Brother CP60X computerized sewing machine to embark on a lifelong hobby of sewing, crafting, and quilting. It offers straightforward, easy-to-use operating procedures, suitable for beginning sewers. An array of 60 built-in stitch options is prominently displayed on the front of the machine. Make a choice by simply pressing a button and the information shows up on the clearly visible LCD screen. In addition to decorative and heirloom stitches, the machine offers a selection of seven auto-size, buttonhole stitches. 

With a fixed needle bar, this machine is particularly well-suited for beginning sewers. The needle remains fixed in place to ensure clean stitching and even seam lines. Additionally, the 2-step, automatic needle threader accurately pushes the thread through the eye of the needle. It saves time and frustration so that beginners can enjoy their sewing activities. 

The CP60X is a versatile sewing machine for multiple purposes. With its heavy-duty frame and exceptionally smooth feed system, the machine handles denim and other thick fabrics without snagging. A favorite feature of quilters, the drop-feed system allows free-motion sewing. Additionally, the machine facilitates free-arm sewing for constructing shirts, cuffs, and trousers. 

This CP60X provides an ample collection of accessories to get started with a sewing hobby. These include a 3-piece needle set, bobbins and a bobbin cover, a quilt guide, and a bilingual instruction manual. The included supply of seven interchangeable feet facilitates multiple types of sewing tasks, including: Blind stitch foot; Zigzag foot; Buttonhole foot; Button sewing foot; Overcasting foot; Zipper foot; and Monogramming foot (used for decorative stitches only).

Best for quilting: Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine

Brother

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Why it made the cut: With built-in stitches for both utilitarian and decorative applications along with automatic features and an extra-wide table that accommodates quilts, the Brother XR3774 is a standout machine for quilters.

Specs

• Weight: 15.87 pounds
• Product dimensions: 15.3 x 5.8 x 12 inches 
• Number of built-in stitches: 37

Pros

• Wide work surface for bulky quilts and large sewing projects
• One-step buttonhole function
• Automatic needle threader
• Jam-resistant, drop-in bobbin

Cons

• Not computerized

Here’s a mechanical sewing machine with automated features and a large workspace for bulky projects. The large throat area and the extra-wide work table make the Brother XR3774 sewing and quilting machine a viable choice for quilters. For projects other than quilts, sewists may utilize the free arm. This feature facilitates sewing sleeves, cuffs, trousers, and skinny jeans. 

In addition to providing ample space for quilting, this machine offers ease-of-use through several automated functions. The 1-step buttonhole stitch automatically turns out perfectly sized buttonholes. An automatic needle threading system eliminates the frustrating task of threading the needle by hand. Simply press a lever on the side of the machine and the thread inserts precisely through the eye of the needle. Additionally, the top drop-in bobbin winds automatically, and it’s jam-resistant to ensure a smooth, continuous feed of thread. 

The XR3774 includes 37 built-in stitches that produce 74 stitch functions when applied to various sewing tasks. These include both utilitarian and decorative stitch options for multiple sewing and quilting purposes. The 37 pre-set stitches are prominently displayed on the front of the machine. Select a unique stitch pattern by simply turning a dial to the appropriate number. 

This machine includes an ample supply of accessories to facilitate varied sewing and quilting activities, including: Walking foot; Blind stitch foot; Zigzag foot; Zipper foot; Buttonhole foot; Button sewing foot; Spring-action quilting foot; Narrow hem foot; Wide table, detachable work surface; Hard cover to protect the machine when not in use; and an Instructional DVD. Here are more of our picks for the best sewing machines for quilting.

Best budget: Brother LX3817 Sewing Machine

Brother

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Why it made the cut: The Brother LX3817 is an affordable machine for the sewing hobbyist, offering ease of operation along with versatile features for basic sewing tasks as well as creative projects.

Specs

• Weight: 10.36 pounds
• Product dimensions: 17x 7 x 14 inches 
• Number of built-in stitches: 17

Pros

• 17 built-in stitches
• 4-step buttonhole function
• LED light for well-lit workspace
• Jam resistant bobbin

Cons 

• Not computerized
• Not as many built-in stitches as other machines

Available at a budget-friendly price, the LX3817 sewing machine provides an array of features to suit the needs of beginners, as well as experienced sewing hobbyists. It’s a full-size machine with 17 built-in stitch options. These include straight stitches, zigzag stitches, blind hem stitch, and couching stitches. The stitch choices are clearly marked on the selection dial, located on the front of the machine. Simply turn the dial to choose the desired stitch patterns for constructing garments, sewing crafts, and embellishing home decor creations. 

In addition to the 17 stitch options, the LX3817 provides a 4-step buttonhole function. With a quick turn of the dial, users may select the appropriate stitches to produce consistent, auto-size buttonholes, lending a professional look to finished projects. 

Several features make this machine a pleasure to use. The work area is well-lit with an LED light and the bobbin cover is transparent for visually monitoring the thread supply. The jam-resistant feature means that the thread on the drop-in bobbin does not become entangled. A convenient control dial lets users adjust the upper tension to avoid loose stitches or fabric puckering. Additionally, the machine’s design facilitates free-arm sewing for cuffs, sleeves, and trouser legs. 

This machine includes four interchangeable feet: Zigzag foot; Zipper foot; Buttonhole foot; and Button-sewing foot. The LX3817 includes all necessary parts to ensure success on multiple sewing and crafting projects, including: Darning plate; Bobbin cover; Bobbins; Set of 3 needles; and an Instructional DVD.

What to consider when buying the best Brother sewing machines

With a large number of options to choose from, it can be daunting for any consumer to select the most appropriate Brother sewing machine for their purposes. Here are several factors to consider before making a selection:

Computerized or mechanical?

Brother Industries manufactures both mechanical and computerized sewing machines. The mechanical models tend to be easier to operate and maintain. They’re durable and reliable, offering basic sewing features for beginners and hobbyists. As an added bonus, many of the mechanical models include automatic functions for ease of use. On the other hand, some sewists prefer the advanced, technological capabilities of computerized sewing machines. Especially for embroidery, crafting, and quilting projects, the computerized machines can’t be beat.

Built-in stitches

As a standard feature, all Brother sewing machines include varying arrays of built-in stitches. These range in style from straight, utilitarian designs for basting and sewing seams to complex, decorative stitches for the artistic embellishment of garments, quilts, home decor, and crafts. The built-in stitches offered by the Brother sewing machines reviewed here range from as few as 17 to as many as 240 options. Advanced, computerized machines include alphanumeric fonts among their built-in stitches to facilitate monogramming and customization of sewing projects. Additionally, the Brother sewing-and-embroidery machines include built-in embroidery designs with memory capability for importing or creating additional options. 

Automatic features

In addition to computerized and mechanical operating systems, shoppers might consider the availability of automatic functions on various Brother sewing machines. These features make the machines easier to use and increase the enjoyment of sewing as a pleasurable activity. Many of the Brother machines offer automatic needle threading. This function saves time, frustration, and eye strain as it eliminates the need to thread the needle by hand. Additionally, the inclusion of a 4-step or 1-step buttonhole function is a time-saver for sewists as it tailors a buttonhole of the precise size and shape for every button.

FAQs

Final thoughts on the best Brother sewing machines

• Best overall: Brother XM2701 Sewing Machine
• Best computerized: Brother XR9550 Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best for embroidery: Brother SE1900 Sewing and Embroidery Machine
• Best for beginners: Brother CP60X Computerized Sewing Machine
• Best for quilting: Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best budget: Brother LX3817 Sewing Machine

Many sewists appreciate the straightforward operating procedures and simplified maintenance of a non-computerized sewing machine such as the Brother XM2701 model. It’s a popular, mechanical machine that provides an ample selection of built-in stitches along with automatic needle threading and buttonhole making. Overall, the XM2701 offers value and versatility for multiple sewing and crafting activities.

Why trust us

Popular Science started writing about technology more than 150 years ago. There was no such thing as “gadget writing” when we published our first issue in 1872, but if there was, our mission to demystify the world of innovation for everyday readers means we would have been all over it. Here in the present, PopSci is fully committed to helping readers navigate the increasingly intimidating array of devices on the market right now.

Our writers and editors have combined decades of experience covering and reviewing consumer electronics. We each have our own obsessive specialties—from high-end audio to video games to cameras and beyond—but when we’re reviewing devices outside of our immediate wheelhouses, we do our best to seek out trustworthy voices and opinions to help guide people to the very best recommendations. We know we don’t know everything, but we’re excited to live through the analysis paralysis that internet shopping can spur so readers don’t have to.

The post The best Brother sewing machines of 2023 appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Best overall		SINGER | Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing & Quilting Machine		SEE IT	A computerized machine with convenient, automatic features.
Best budget		SINGER | MX60 Sewing Machine With Accessory Kit		SEE IT	A basic, mechanical machine that offers straightforward operating procedures.
Best for beginners		SINGER | Start 1304 Sewing Machine		SEE IT	An optimal choice for teens and adult beginners or sewing hobbyists who want a simple-to-use machine.

A good Singer sewing machine is the one that meets the needs of the individual. With many models to choose from, beginning hobbyists, as well as experienced sewing artists, can find appropriate models to facilitate their creative sewing efforts and produce pleasing results. 

Since 1851, when Isaac Singer patented the first practical sewing machine, the Singer company has been serving the public with reliable sewing machines manufactured from high-quality materials with precisely functioning component parts. Innovation and creative product development mark the company’s history. In the years since that first patent, the Singer company introduced the first electronic sewing machines, the first zigzag-stitch machines, and the first sewing-assistant app for mobile devices. 

Today, Singer offers a plethora of sewing machine models for a wide range of sewing purposes. These include quilt-making, garment construction, embroidery, crafts, and fabricating home decor items such as curtains and toss pillows. Shoppers have many options to choose from when selecting the best Singer sewing machine for each individual sewer’s needs.

• Best overall: SINGER | Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing & Quilting Machine 
• Best for beginners: SINGER | Start 1304 Sewing Machine
• Best heavy-duty: SINGER | 4423 Heavy Duty Sewing Machine
• Best portable: SINGER | Stitch Quick + Handheld Mending Machine
• Best for embroidery: SINGER | Legacy SE300 Sewing and Embroidery Machine
• Best for quilting: SINGER | Confidence 7469Q Computerized Quilting & Sewing Machine
• Best budget: SINGER | MX60 Sewing Machine With Accessory Kit

How we chose the best Singer sewing machines

To assemble our list of six recommended products, we took into account personal experience, peer suggestions, and user impressions to identify 13 top Singer sewing machines intended for home use. Although our selections are all available on Amazon, we did not limit our research to standard specs and basic product descriptions. Instead, we went to the source by consulting the Singer company website. There, we found more in-depth information to bring greater clarity to the selection process for our readers.

First, we distinguished between sewing machines with either computerized or mechanical operating systems and focused on products in both categories. Then, we looked for both basic and advanced features to suit the varying needs of shoppers. For example, we considered machines with a great quantity of pre-set stitch choices and programmable functions such as automatic needle threading, one-step buttonholes, and push-button stitch selection. Alternatively, we considered simple machines with basic, mechanical functions that meet the needs of many sewists and crafters, including beginners. Additionally, we considered machines in the mid-to-upper price range, as well as more budget-friendly choices. We did not consider industrial or professional machines, such as those that perform serging and overlocking functions. 

The best Singer sewing machines: Reviews & Recommendations

Best overall: SINGER | Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing & Quilting Machine 

SINGER

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: The Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 machine offers computerized operation with a vast array of optional functions to turn out creative, personalized sewing projects.

Specs

• Weight: 20 pounds
• Dimensions: 17.25 x 8.25 x 12 inches
• Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros

• 600 built-in stitch applications
• Automatic needle threader
• 5 alphanumeric fonts for monogramming and personalizing projects
• High speed, up to 850 stitches per minute

Cons

• Somewhat expensive
• Occasional issues with the automatic tension

Creative sewists find that this machine meets and exceeds their needs for versatility and ease of use. With the outstanding features on Singer’s Quantum Stylist 9960 machine, users are limited only by their own imaginations. The machine simplifies the processes needed to turn out beautiful quilts, crafts, home decor, and fashion projects. 

With its up-to-date, computerized operating system, the Quantum Stylist provides numerous options for sewing speed, precision, and multipurpose functioning. It offers 600 built-in stitches, ranging from basic to stretch and decorative options. The stitch choices include five alphanumeric fonts for monogramming or personalizing projects, as well as 13 alternatives for 1-step buttonholes. For ultimate ease, the machine includes a specialized underplate to successfully create perfect tailoring on every buttonhole.

The Quantum Stylist is capable of producing 850 stitches per minute, facilitating the quick completion of sewing projects. Additionally, the automatic needle threader speeds up the tedious task of threading the machine’s needle. Within seconds, users can have the entire machine automatically threaded, from the spool to the eye of the needle. This feature eliminates the frustration and eye strain associated with threading the needle by hand.

To facilitate a broad range of creative crafts and sewing projects, the Quantum Stylist 9960 includes a sizable array of accessories. These include the following attachable, working parts: All-purpose foot; Zipper foot; Buttonhole foot; Open toe foot; Overcasting foot; Darning and embroidery foot; Rolled hem foot; Cording foot; Straight stitch and quilting food; and Even-feed or walking foot.

Singer’s Quantum Stylist 9960 is suitable for creative types who design and fabricate their own fashions, as well as those who turn out heirloom-quality quilts and custom-craft handiwork. Additionally, it serves users who simply want to make clothing from commercial patterns or construct simple toss-pillows and curtains for their home decor. Overall, it’s a high-quality, multifunctional, and dependable machine.

Best for beginners: SINGER | Start 1304 Sewing Machine

SINGER

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: Older children and teens, as well as adult beginners, might use the Singer Start 1304 machine to embark on a journey of creative discovery and productivity through sewing.

Specs

• Weight: 9.8 pounds
• Product dimensions: 13 x 7 x 11.5 inches
• Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros 

• Lightweight and portable
• Full metal frame
• 6 built-in stitches for 57 stitch applications
• Includes a quick-start guide and an instruction manual

Cons

• Not for quilting
• Not for heavy-duty fabrics

The simplified operational procedures of this mechanical sewing machine make it ideal for casual hobbyists and beginning sewers. Older children and teens might use this machine to launch a lifelong fascination with the arts of sewing, quilting, and crafting. The Singer Start 1304 offers basic features with enough variable options to facilitate creativity and versatility in sewing projects. 

A manual dial on the front of the machine displays six clearly marked stitch choices. With a simple turn of the dial, users can employ these stitches with pre-set lengths and widths to accomplish up to 57 stitch applications. In addition to straight stitches for seams and hems, beginners can experiment with decorative scallops and zigzag stitches to embellish their work.

In addition to straight and decorative stitches, the Start 1304 boasts a simple, 4-step buttonhole system with clearly marked designations on the stitch selector dial. Even beginners can turn out tailored buttonholes every time. Although the machine is lightweight, compact, and portable, it features a full metal frame inside the plastic outer casing. This construction ensures durability for years of service as well as stability on a tabletop or work surface.

For versatile use on a variety of sewing projects, the Start 1304 includes numerous attachable working parts along with other helpful accessories. These include the following: All-purpose foot; Zipper foot; Buttonhole foot; Darning plate; Pack of needles; Bobbins; Needle plate; Screwdriver; Spool pin felts; Seam ripper and lint brush; Power line cord; Foot pedal control; Quick-start guide; and Instruction manual.

Best heavy-duty: SINGER | 4423 Heavy Duty Sewing Machine

SINGER

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Why it made the cut: With a motor that is 60-percent more powerful than most, the Singer 4423 sewing machine handles thick seams and heavy-duty fabrics such as denim and canvas. 

Specs

• Weight: 14.5 pounds
• Product dimensions: 15.5 x 6.25 x 12 inches
• Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros

• Heavy-duty, interior, metal frame
• Extra-powerful motor
• High-speed performance
• Sews lightweight, sheer fabrics as well as heavy-duty materials

Cons

• Not the best choice for thick leather and thick canvas

Sew through denim, canvas, and heavy wool fabrics with the Singer 4423 machine. It boasts a motor that is 60-percent more powerful than standard sewing machine motors, making this model a workhorse for multiple sewing projects. Additionally, both the heavy-duty metal frame and the stainless-steel bedplate assure stability in operation along with long-wearing durability. Yet, this machine also handles lightweight, sheer materials. The smooth, stainless-steel bed plate along with the adjustable pressure for the presser-foot allow sheer fabrics to glide across the bed’s surface without snagging.

With its powerful motor, the Singer 4423 sewing machine boasts exceptional sewing speed. It’s easy to complete sewing projects in record time when the machine produces up to 1,100 precision stitches per minute. A clearly marked dial allows users to select from a variety of preset stitches to create up to 97 stitch applications. Select the 1-step buttonhole feature to save time and frustration by producing consistent buttonholes every time. Simply place the button in the buttonhole foot, and the machine automatically sews a precision buttonhole around it.

On the outer casing surface, clear markings indicate the procedure for threading the machine from the top-loading, drop-in bobbin to the needle. Then, the built-in, automatic needle threader takes over to thread the needle, thereby saving the user from annoyance and eye strain. 

The Singer 4423 heavy-duty machine includes a package of 4 interchangeable feet along with multiple accessories such as bobbins, needles, a quilting guide, and more. Additionally, a soft-sided dust cover is included to protect the machine when it’s not in use.

Best portable: SINGER | Stitch Quick + Handheld Mending Machine

SINGER

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Why it made the cut: The Singer Stitch Quick + is a battery-operated, handheld sewing machine that delivers meticulous results on quick repairs and hems, eliminating the need to set up a full-size machine.

Specs 

• Weight: 1.45 pounds
• Dimensions: 9.7 x 4.1 x 6 inches
• Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros 

• Ultimate portability
• May be used in locations without electricity
• No need to set up a full-size machine
• More precise results than hand-sewing on hems and repairs 

Cons

• Not suitable for constructing garments and full-size projects
• Not for heavy-duty use

Save time and effort when you use this mini, handheld, cordless mending machine. With the Singer Stitch-Quick +, there’s no need to set up a full-size sewing machine when it’s time to make rapid repairs on garments and home decor items. Use it to quickly hem a pair of pants, a skirt, or household curtains. Grab this handheld tool when it’s time to mend a ripped seam in a hurry. Weighing only 1.45 pounds, the diminutive machine is easy to store and to transport. Take it along wherever it might be necessary to complete a minor sewing task. It requires only 4 AA batteries (may we suggest rechargeables).

On the other hand, the Stitch Quick + might be the ideal learning tool for an older child or teen to get started with sewing. A convenient switch on the front of the machine allows the user to choose either desktop or handheld operating modes. From there, the beginning sewer can learn many of the same procedures that pertain to standard sewing-machine operation. 

Singer designs this machine with attention to ergonomic considerations for handheld use. The handle grip is designed to offer the most advantageous balance and control. A safety lock prevents accidental operation. 

Use the Stitch Quick + for sewing paper as well as fabric. It’s useful for making crafts. The machine uses two threads to produce permanent, interlocking stitches. Replace the upper bobbin with the large spool pin to facilitate using standard-size thread spools. This diminutive machine contains many of the working parts of a standard sewing machine. These include the following: Built-in thread cutter; Drop-in bobbin compartment; Bobbin winder; Presser foot; Needle; Adjustable tension control dial; Handwheel; and Built-in storage compartment for notions.

Best for embroidery: SINGER | Legacy SE300 Sewing and Embroidery Machine

Singer

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Why it made the cut: The Singer Legacy SE300 comes with 200 embroidery designs and 250 stitches, making this an ideal choice for people who love to embroider and embellish their work.

Specs

• Weight: 20.5 pounds
• Dimensions: 17.25 x 8.25 x 12 inches  
• Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros

• 200 included embroidery designs
• Fast sewing speed of 800 stitches per minute
• Six fonts included

Cons

• Expensive
• Software only available for Windows

If embroidery is your thing, consider the Singer Legacy SE300. The machine comes with a large and small embroidery hoop, plus 7.25 inches of space to hold your project. The included 200 embroidery designs and six fonts will give you plenty of options. The SE300 provides basic stitches along with a wide range of decorative stitches and will automatically set the length, width, pressure, and more. It also has memory to save four individual stitching sequences. 

Capable of up to 800 stitches per minute, the SE300 can move through projects fast. To convert it from sewing to embroidery mode, just attach the embroidery foot. The LCD and touch screens help simplify the job and the machine has online training as part of the package. It also comes with software, but it’s only compatible with Windows. It’s also one of the pricier models on the list. 

Best for quilting: SINGER | Confidence 7469Q Computerized Quilting & Sewing Machine

SINGER

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Why it made the cut: The Singer Confidence 7469Q computerized sewing machine includes automatic functions and attachable working parts that facilitate many of the specialized sewing procedures for quilt-making.

Specs

• Weight: 16.25 pounds
• Dimensions: 17 x 8 x 12.5 inches  
• Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros 

• Includes 4 bonus feet designed for quilting
• 98 built-in stitches
• Automatic needle threader
• Drop-feed lever for free-motion sewing

Cons

• Not the best choice for beginners

Many quilters, crafters, and avid sewists appreciate the push-button operating ease of a computerized sewing machine. When it comes to quilting, the Singer Confidence 7469Q does not disappoint. Several features of this machine make quilting easier and more enjoyable, yielding creatively inspiring results.

These features include: Darning and embroidery foot for stippling; even-feed or walking foot for smooth fabric flow; open-toe foot for improved visibility; 0.25-inch foot for piecing together quilting blocks; large sewing surface to handle large quilts; extension table included to extend the sewing surface; programmable needle up/down feature for piecing together quilts; and drop-feed lever lowers the feed teeth for free-motion sewing.

Select from 98 built-in stitches for basic and decorative sewing and quilting projects. The most frequently used stitches are displayed on the front of the machine and available at the touch of a button. However, the lengths and widths of the preprogrammed stitches may be adjusted by the user. 

Several convenient features of this computerized machine are designed to save time and effort for sewists. The drop-and-sew bobbin system eliminates the need for raising the bobbin thread before sewing. Simply drop in the bobbin and start sewing immediately. For added convenience, the bobbin cover is transparent, facilitating continuous monitoring of the thread supply. Additionally, the machine offers an automatic needle threader to save the user time and frustration while working.

Sewing buttonholes is a breeze with the Confidence 7569Q one-step buttonhole function. Simply place the button in the buttonhole foot, and the machine sews a perfectly tailored buttonhole around it. 

Best budget: SINGER | MX60 Sewing Machine With Accessory Kit

SINGER

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: Available at an affordable price, the Singer MX60 sewing machine is a solid choice for a lightweight, portable tool that provides reliable service for basic sewing and craft projects.

Specs

• Weight: 12.17 pounds
• Product dimensions: 13 x 7 x 11.5 inches
• Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros

• Lightweight for portability and storage
• Full metal frame
• 57 stitch applications
• 4-step buttonhole function

Cons

• Not computerized
• Not for heavy-duty fabrics such as denim or canvas

Here’s a mechanical sewing machine that offers solid, basic features for a wide variety of sewing projects. Many users prefer mechanical machines like the Singer MX60 because the manual controls are simple to use and the machine is easy to maintain over time. Offering an array of useful features, this machine is suitable for beginners as well as experienced sewists.

With a choice of 57 stitch applications, the MX60 is capable of producing decorative sewing as well as basic seams. The stitch choices vary in both length and width. Various stitch options are suitable for piecing quilts, sewing garments, or creating crafts with decorative stitching. Moreover, the stitch selector dial is uncomplicated to use, eliminating mistakes and frustration. 

The MX60 does not boast an automatic needle threader, but it does provide easy-to-follow threading guides that are clearly marked on the machine’s outer surface. Additionally, the LED lighting saves users from straining their eyes while threading the machine. With a front-loading bobbin, the machine can be threaded and ready for use in only a few seconds. A simple lever switches from forward to reverse sewing for finishing off seams, and the tension adjustment allows users to fine-tune the machine for a variety of fabric types.

Weighing in at only 12.7 pounds and exhibiting a compact size, the Singer MX60 is ideal for users who want a portable machine. It’s easy to lift, carry, and store, making it a practical choice for those who work in small spaces. Despite its small size and minimal weight, the MX60 boasts a full metal frame inside the plastic outer shell. This substantial frame provides stability that allows the machine to sew smoothly, without skipping.

What to consider when buying the best Singer sewing machines

Before making an investment in a Singer sewing machine, shoppers might consider their individual sewing aspirations. For example, a beginner who wants to create simple crafts and home decor items will have needs that are different from those of an experienced quilter or a sewist who aspires to develop their personal fashion line. Based on the extent and complexity of their anticipated sewing projects, shoppers might consider several factors in the selection process. 

Computerized or mechanical

Computerized sewing machines offer convenience to sewers via their programmable features and push-button operating ease. However, computerized machines are more expensive than mechanical models. Avid sewing artists and quilters might be willing to pay the additional cost for the convenient, computerized functions and the precision results that they facilitate. On the other hand, beginners and hobbyists might prefer the simplicity of mechanical sewing machines. The mechanical models tend to offer more straightforward operating procedures along with easier maintenance.

Built-in stitches and stitch applications

Both computerized and mechanical sewing machines include varying quantities of built-in or pre-set stitches. These fall into three categories, including straight stitches for seams, decorative stitches for embellishments, and buttonhole stitches. With a number of built-in stitches, machines offer a broad range of stitch applications. These applications involve various sewing techniques that can be accomplished with built-in stitch selections. For example, a machine with 98 built-in stitches might facilitate up to 600 stitch applications. Alternatively, a machine with 6 built-in stitches may facilitate 57 stitch applications. 

Size, weight, and portability

Tabletop sewing machines vary in size from around 13 inches to 17 inches in length and 11 inches to 12 inches in height. Most are around 7 inches to 8.5 inches in width. Similarly, they vary in weight from approximately 10 pounds to 20 pounds. All of the tabletop machines included in this round-up may be considered portable. However, the smaller and lighter weight machines are easier to set up, move, and store. For sewers who live in small spaces, a small and lightweight machine might be the most convenient for moving from place to place in the home as well as for storage. 

FAQs

Final thoughts on the best Singer sewing machines

• Best overall: SINGER | Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing & Quilting Machine 
• Best for beginners: SINGER | Start 1304 Sewing Machine
• Best heavy-duty: SINGER | 4423 Heavy Duty Sewing Machine
• Best portable: SINGER | Stitch Quick + Handheld Mending Machine
• Best for embroidery: SINGER | Legacy SE300 Sewing and Embroidery Machine
• Best for quilting: SINGER | Confidence 7469Q Computerized Quilting & Sewing Machine
• Best budget: SINGER | MX60 Sewing Machine With Accessory Kit

The Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 is our choice for the best Singer sewing machine. It’s a computerized sewing machine that offers advanced features to make sewing easier. It’s suitable for serious and experienced quilters, crafters, and sewists, but the clearly marked design facilitates use by beginners, as well. Multiple automatic functions take the guesswork out of sewing procedures and produce consistently excellent results in finished sewing projects. 

Why trust us

Popular Science started writing about technology more than 150 years ago. There was no such thing as “gadget writing” when we published our first issue in 1872, but if there was, our mission to demystify the world of innovation for everyday readers means we would have been all over it. Here in the present, PopSci is fully committed to helping readers navigate the increasingly intimidating array of devices on the market right now.

Our writers and editors have combined decades of experience covering and reviewing consumer electronics. We each have our own obsessive specialties—from high-end audio to video games to cameras and beyond—but when we’re reviewing devices outside of our immediate wheelhouses, we do our best to seek out trustworthy voices and opinions to help guide people to the very best recommendations. We know we don’t know everything, but we’re excited to live through the analysis paralysis that internet shopping can spur so readers don’t have to.

The post The best Singer sewing machines of 2023 appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

One of the perks of living in a semi-rural area is the availability of fresh eggs. At least four people I know have hens roaming their yards, so my wife and I get all the eggs we can use, and then some. They end up in a wooden egg holder that sits right out on the counter.

That’s right, freshly-laid eggs don’t have to be refrigerated and can be kept at room temperature for weeks. Indeed, in many places around the world, eggs typically aren’t refrigerated at all. In the US, though, both the Federal Drug Administration and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recommend always refrigerating eggs. However, that’s not directly because of the eggs themselves—it’s to prevent bacterial illnesses, specifically salmonella.

Freshly laid eggs have a natural defense against bacteria: a protective protein coating called the cuticle, or “bloom,” says Jacob R. Tuell, assistant professor of animal science and food science at Northwest Missouri State University. The bloom seals up those pores, preventing bacteria from sneaking inside. Research has shown that the cuticle is effective at keeping salmonella at bay for about three to four days after laying, he explains. After that, its effectiveness begins to deteriorate. In the US, commercially produced eggs are washed to eliminate any possible salmonella, but that washing process also removes the protective bloom. This, in turn, speeds up the spoiling process and necessitates refrigeration. Elsewhere, eggs often aren’t washed before being sold, so the bloom remains in place, sealing out any bacteria. In short: if you bought your eggs at a store, are unsure how fresh they are, or don’t know if they’ve been washed, put them in the fridge.

However, flocks raised in US backyards don’t have the same washing requirements, Trager says. “If you keep the coop clean and have good bedding, there’s really no reason to refrigerate or wash the eggs.” As long as the bloom remains intact, eggs can last for weeks at room temperature without spoiling, he explains.

And of course, there’s no reason you can’t store fresh eggs in the refrigerator if that makes you more comfortable, washed or unwashed. Once they go in, though, they have to stay there. However, Trager cautions against storing washed eggs on a wooden tray. Wood is too porous to be properly sterilized and may transfer contaminants through the pores of the bloom-less eggs, he explains. So if you’re planning to make this wooden egg tray, only use it for fresh, unwashed eggs.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a face mask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

How to build a wooden egg holder

Stats

• Time: 1 to 2 hours
• Material cost: $5 to $20
• Difficulty: easy

Materials

• A 2-foot-long, 1-by-4-inch board (any kind of wood you like)
• Wood glue
• (Optional) ¼-inch dowel

Tools

• Miter saw
• Table saw
• Jointer
• Planer
• Speed square
• Tape measure
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs (120-, 150-, and 220-grit)
• Drill press (or drill)
• Clamps
• ⅛-inch drill bit
• 1 ¼-inch Forstner bit
• (Optional) router
• (Optional) chamfer router bit
• (Optional) ¼-inch drill bit
• (Optional) chisel

Instructions

1. Mill your lumber to size. This is one of those projects where having flat, square boards will make your life easier. We have a comprehensive guide to milling lumber, but it’s a straightforward process. Start by cutting the pieces of the egg holder to rough length on your miter saw: one board of 13 inches and two of about 5 inches each. Then run them over your jointer to flatten one face, and again to flatten and square one edge. 

Next, take them to your planer to flatten the remaining face, and trim them down to final width and length on your table saw. When you’re done, you should have three boards, all between ½ and ¾ inches thick: 

• 1 (12½-by-4-inch) board
• 2 (5–by-4-inch) boards

If you purchased pre-milled, square wood, you may be able to skip this step. But double-check that everything actually is flat and square.

2. Measure and mark the egg hole locations on the longest board. Before measuring the centers of the 12 holes on this board, use a square to draw a line across what will be the top of your egg holder, parallel to the end of the board and a quarter-inch in. This represents the depth of the dado where this piece of wood will sit inside the two shorter boards—we’ll worry about cutting that slot in Step 6. The distance between those two lines should be exactly 12 inches.  

Using your square and a tape measure or ruler, draw lines 1 inch, 3 inches, and 5 inches from those dado lines, moving toward the center of the board. Then make two marks on each of these new lines, 1 inch in from the long edges of the board. Those 12 intersections are where the centers of the egg holes belong.

3. Drill pilot holes in the board. Anytime you use a Forstner bit to drill all the way through a board, start with some pilot holes. Forstner bits are known to blow out or chip wood as they exit, so the best practice is to drill halfway through from the top, then turn the board over and drill the rest from the bottom to prevent tear-out. The easiest way to line those two cuts up is with a pilot hole.

If you have a drill press, drill the 12 small holes with that, using a ⅛-inch bit, or whatever size in that range you have. If you use a hand drill, make sure it’s straight up and down. You can use a speed square as a visual reference, or you can make a quick drill guide to keep the hole perpendicular to the face. If the drill bit wanders or leans, the two Forstner holes may not line up properly, and you’ll have to do a lot of sanding to fix it. No one wants to do any more sanding than they need to.

4. Drill the full holes. Change the ⅛-inch bit out for the 1 ¼-inch Forstner bit. Again, a drill press is best for this cut, but a handheld drill can do the job if you’re careful and use a jig for alignment. Center the bit in a pilot hole, and start to drill. Stop when you get just past halfway. Drill all the holes halfway through on one face of the board, then flip it over and drill from the other side.

5. (Optional) Chamfer the edges of the holes. To help the eggs sit better and reduce the chances that they’ll crack on sharp edges, chamfer the top edges of each hole. The easiest way to do this is with a router and a chamfering bit. I used a router table to make this cut, but if you don’t have access to one, you can use a palm router. Make sure to clamp your board securely to the work bench if you do. 

• Note: If you don’t chamfer the hole edges, at least thoroughly round them over with sandpaper.

6. Cut dado slots into the legs. There are many ways to cut dado slots. My preferred method, and the one accessible to most people, is on the table saw with a crosscut sled. If you have a flat-cut table saw blade, like one that comes with a dado stack, use that, but it’s fine if you just have a normal blade. You can use a full dado stack to make this cut faster, but I wasn’t comfortable using mine on such a small board so I made multiple passes with a single blade.

[Related: How to refinish a scratched wooden cutting board]

Mark a line ¾ of an inch from the bottom of the leg, then make another line above it so the distance between the two is the thickness of the tray board. Set the height of your blade to a quarter-inch, and start removing the material between those lines by making one cut on your crosscut sled. Keep moving the leg over about ⅛-inch to make additional cuts. Repeat this as many times as you need to in order for the tray to fit in the slot. 

If you use a standard blade for this, you’ll probably wind up with little wedges on the bottom of the slot. Trim those flat with a chisel.

7. (Optional) Cut curves on the corners of the legs. This is purely for aesthetics, but I love the way it looks. Draw a small arc at each corner of every leg board. You can use any cylindrical object to trace these—I used a spray paint bottle cap. Then remove the wood outside of that arc. I cut mine first with a band saw, then rounded it over with a sander, but a jig saw or coping saw will work as well. You can even just jump right to the sander, though that will take a bit longer.

8. (Optional) Add dowels for stacking. If you’re planning to make more than one tray, you may want to consider stacking them. Of course, you can place one on top of the other, but there’s always the risk that it will slide off and splatter your eggs. To give it some support, drill a ¼-inch hole in the top and bottom centers of the legs. Insert a dowel in the top of the bottom tray legs, and then you can slide the top tray onto that dowel, locking it into place. Round over the ends of the dowels with 120-grit sandpaper to make them easier to slide in and out. 

9. Sand everything to 220-grit. You’ve heard me say it before—sanding is the difference between a good product and a great product. Sand all of the pieces with an orbital sander, working through the grits—start with 120 and finish with 220. The hard part of this build is sanding the holes and chamfers, if you made them. You can use your fingers to get inside everything, or you can use a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a dowel. Of course, if you have a spindle sander, use that and save your fingers.

• Pro tip: If you use a dowel, you can open the chuck of your power drill all the way, stick the dowel in, and tighten it up. Then you can wrap the dowel in sandpaper and use the drill to spin it quickly inside the holes.

Before you finish sanding, slightly round over all sharp edges with 220-grit sandpaper to keep them from splintering or breaking later. 

The post Go ahead, leave your fresh eggs on the counter in this handmade wooden tray appeared first on Popular Science.

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Believe it or not, you don’t need a refrigerator to keep food cold. Just gather some ceramic pots, sand, and water, and you’ve got a portable, non-electric DIY mini-fridge with a time-tested design. After all, people were preserving food for thousands of years before you had to keep that leftover takeout from stinking up your college dorm.

How to make a refrigerator without electricity

3. Put the smaller pot inside the larger one.

4. Fill the space between the pots with sand.

5. Pour water into the sand.

How this DIY refrigerator works

As water evaporates through the clay, it releases energy into the air and cools the space inside the pot. It’s like splashing water on your face on a hot day; the water evaporates off your skin, cooling it in the process. Refrigerator coolant actually works in a similar way, using evaporation to draw heat out of the fridge itself. That’s why the back of your Frigidaire is so warm.

These pot-in-pot coolers are useful in places that don’t have power grids, but they’re also great for people who don’t have fridges, need more space, or want to cut their energy bills. On that last point: they’re also much better for the environment since they don’t require any sort of fuel, much less oil or gas.

[Related: The scientifically best way to pack a cooler]

It’s best to keep zeer pots in the shade, since the sun will warm them up, but you can also put them in a breezy area—wind makes the water evaporate faster, which cools the food more quickly. They’re most effective in arid climates, because water evaporates more when there’s less of it in the air. So, these pots will likely work better in Arizona than Florida.

They work well in Sudan, where Practical Action has introduced the zeer pot to many in need of refrigeration. Food security is a huge problem in the Northeast African country, and the DIY refrigerators can make food last 10 times longer, Lomas says.

“Someone told me they once made ice out of a zeer pot,” he says, laughing. He didn’t believe the guy, but he does find the pots incredibly effective. According to Practical Action’s website, one woman, Hawa Abbas, used to watch half her okra, tomato, and carrot crops spoil. After discovering zeer pots, that changed.

The post The coolest way to keep food cold without electricity appeared first on Popular Science.

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One of the most important skills in woodworking is learning to properly mill the wood. If you don’t have milling tools or are working with boards that are extra wide, you don’t have to give up, and you definitely don’t have to cut a beautiful slab down to a more manageable size. Instead, build a router sled that will let you flatten pretty much anything.

Various companies sell metal versions of these tools, and they may be a good investment if you do a lot of flattening. However, it’s pretty easy to build a DIY router sled, allowing you to customize it exactly to your needs and space.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 1 to 2 hours
• Material cost: $50 to $100
• Difficulty: easy

Materials

• 1 (8-foot) 1-by-6-inch board (or plywood or scrap wood) 
• 2 pieces of 36-inch-long angle iron
• Shims
• Hot glue

Tools

• Table saw
• Jointer
• Planer
• Drill
• Countersink bit
• Clamps
• Glue gun
• Slab flattening bit

How to build a DIY router sled

1. Decide how big you need your router sled to be. This requires some prognostication on your part about what size projects you’re going to build in the future. For end tables, you can probably get away with a sled that’s 2 feet square. For coffee tables, you’ll need something more in the 3-by-4-foot range. And if you’re looking to try your hand at dining tables, you’ll probably need to go 8-by-4 (a full sheet of plywood) for the base.

The most challenging dimension to determine is the height of the rails, which establishes what thickness of board you can flatten. Your rails need to be taller than the board you’re milling, but you can’t make them too tall or your router bit won’t reach low enough to actually touch the top of the slab.

The largest board I’ve flattened has been 4 feet by about 16 inches. I made my rails 5 feet long and 2 inches tall, with a sled that is 36 inches long. I decided on this depth because I’ve never worked with anything deeper than that, and my router can plunge a little over an inch. If I ever need to work with a thicker or thinner slab, I add plywood shims under the rails or board being flattened to raise or lower their relative positions, then secure them with either hot glue. (More details on leveling and shimming in the “Setting up and using the router sled” section below.)

• Pro tip: For more flexibility, I don’t permanently attach my rails to a base, either. I clamp them to my workbench so I can adjust to the width of the board.

2. Mill the lumber so it’s flat and square. Working with flat, square boards is much easier and more accurate than having to deal with warps, waves, and curves. For this project in particular, having straight edges and faces is crucial. Any waves or bows in the rails will transfer onto the surface of the slab that you’re flattening, which defeats the entire purpose of this setup.

If you’re making your rails out of ¾-inch plywood, which many people do, you don’t need to mill it—simply trim it to the proper width and length.

At the end of the milling process, you should have four boards, just under ¾ of an inch thick:

• 2 that are 4 feet long and 1 ¼ inches wide
• 2 that are 4 feet long and 2 ½ inches wide

3. Glue and screw the boards into an “L” shape. To achieve this shape, stand the long edge of one 1¼-inch-wide board on the face of one 2½-inch-wide board. Align the two boards so the edge of the bottom piece is flush with the face of the top one, and glue them in place, securing them with clamps. You can also use a countersink bit and 1½-inch wood screws to hold the boards together while they dry. Repeat this step with the other two boards.

4. (Optional) Cut eight small 1-by-1-inch squares of scrap wood on your table saw or miter saw. These will add stability to your rails and keep them from warping over time. The best way to do this is with a crosscut sled on your table saw, which is my preferred method. You can also use a miter saw or hand saw if you’re more comfortable with those. Then glue and screw four of these along the length of each rail to hold the 90-degree orientation of the “L.” With that, the rails are done.

5. Cut two spacer blocks that are slightly wider than the base of your router. These spacers can be made from whatever wood you have lying around, and don’t need to be perfectly flat or square. They should all be the same width, though, about ⅛-inch wider than the base of your router. Cut these out on your table saw, miter saw, or with a hand saw—whichever tool is handiest for you.  

• Note: If you have more than one router, use your most powerful one in the sled. I’ve tried flattening with my 1.25-horsepower DeWalt palm router, and while it can technically do the job, it struggles. My fixed-base Craftsman is more powerful and much more suited to the task, even if it’s not quite as easy to use and adjust.

6. Clamp the spacer blocks between the pieces of angle iron. This will be the actual sled your router sits on. Put one spacer block at each end of the metal bars, resting on the inside lip. Then clamp them in place. I clamp rather than using screws or glue for a couple reasons. First, I have more than one router, which means I might decide to use a different one. To swap, all I need to do is cut a new spacer and put it in place, rather than having to build a new sled. Second, clamps allow me to store the sled disassembled, which takes up a lot less space in my teeny, tiny basement shop.  

Setting up and using the router sled

1. Position the rails. Set your rails on your workbench, spaced far enough apart so the board you’re flattening can fit between them with a couple of inches to spare on either side. Depending on your setup, you can either clamp these down or screw them in place.

2. Level and secure the board between them. The surface of the board should be just below the top of the rails, so the router bit can easily reach it. You also want to do your best to get that top surface approximately level with the plane formed by the top of the boards. This will reduce the amount of material that needs to be removed in order to flatten it. Shim the board to the proper alignment, then hot glue those shims—and the board—in place. If the board moves at all while you’re routing, you may not end up with a flat surface.

• Pro tip: If the board is particularly warped or tapered, try to position the board so you’ll take the least amount of material off each side. This takes some guesswork and experimentation, and it’s not absolutely critical, but I always try to save as much wood as possible.  

3. Place the angle iron sled on top of the rails. The sled should lay perpendicular to the rails and across both. Position it to the left or right of the board, then slide it back and forth along the length of the rails to double check that it doesn’t bump into anything as you go. Getting hung up on a clamp or the corner of the board while you’re routing is really annoying. Adjust as needed. 

4. Start routing. Secure your slab-flattening bit into your router, drop the router into the sled, and start routing. With the depth set to take off between a sixteenth and eighth of an inch, push the router across the board, holding it secure. Don’t allow the tool to tip forward or backward, or you’ll gouge the wood. Pull the router back to you along the sled, slide the whole apparatus over about two-thirds the width of your bit, and push the router forward again. Keep going until you reach the end of the board.

If you didn’t flatten the entire surface in one path, lower the bit between a sixteenth and eighth of an inch and repeat the process. Keep going until you’ve flattened the entire face of the board. 

Once you complete your last pass, flip the board over, secure it to your workbench, and do it all again on the other face.

The post Build your own router sled to flatten wood without buying big, expensive tools appeared first on Popular Science.

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A few years ago, I turned the refrigerator alcove in our new house into a pantry, but never got around to adding doors. I made a pair a few months later, repurposing free doors I got from a cabinetmaker who was going out of business, but they gathered dust in the basement while other projects took priority. Finally, I got a free weekend and some motivation, and decided to actually install them.    

My second challenge was that the refrigerator alcove itself isn’t square—it is off about a quarter of an inch from one side to the other. This means square doors either don’t fit or don’t look right in the non-square opening. I had to work hard to shape the doors to fit and give the illusion of being square. 

And finally, get someone to help you out. Professionals might be able to hang cabinet doors easily by themselves, but since neither you nor I are professional cabinetmakers, another pair of hands will be invaluable. 

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 30 to 90 minutes per door
• Material cost: $5 to $30 (not including the doors)
• Difficulty: moderate

Materials

• Cabinet hinges that fit your door
• Door handle

Tools

To hang the door

• Drill
• Drill bits
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Shims

To trim the door

• Table saw
• Router
• Flush trim bit
• Hand plane
• Block plane
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs
• Clamps
• Straight edge cutting guide (or a long scrap of plywood with a straight edge)
• Chisels

How to hang a cabinet or pantry door

1. Buy the proper hinges for your door. I was shocked and confused by how many different hinge styles there are. To find the one that’s right for you, pay attention to the overlay—how the door is positioned relative to the cabinet frame. Inset doors are flush with the front of the cabinet and rest fully inside the opening. Partial overlay doors sit in front of the cabinet face and cover up part of the face frame. Full overlay doors go in front of the cabinet face and cover the entire face frame. Each of these three types of doors requires its own style of hinge.

Once you’ve identified the type of door, check how the hinge attaches to the cabinet. Some screw flat to the sidewall, which is how ours work. Others wrap around the face frame of the cabinet. And finally, think about how visible you want the hinges to be and what features you need, including adjustability, opening angle, soft-closing, or self-closing.

• Note: BobVila.com has a quality guide to the different hinge types. If you’re a more visual learner, Rockler put together a good video guide. 

2. Measure and mark how much to trim the doors. If you’re lucky, your door perfectly fits the opening you have, and you can skip steps 2 and 3 entirely. If not, you’ve got some work to do. 

First, bring the door to the opening and figure out exactly where to trim. Hold the door in place, using shims or another person to help, and use a pencil to mark the material to remove. You may need to slim down an entire edge, or knock off a few inches leading into a corner, particularly if either the door or the opening aren’t perfectly square.

How much and where to trim depends on what kind of overlay your door has. If you have a partial overlay and adjustable hinges, you’ll have quite a bit of wiggle room because you won’t be constrained to the size of the opening. An eighth- or even a quarter-inch oversized probably doesn’t matter, though you will have to keep in mind how the door lines up with other cabinets nearby. 

[Related: The surprising woodworking tools you already have around the house]

Full overlay doors have to be a bit more precise, because they’re supposed to completely cover the face frame, without hanging over. However, chances are that no one will notice if the doors overhang a 16th or even an eighth of an inch.  

Inset doors require the most precision, because they fit inside the cabinet opening. Generally speaking, they need about an eighth of an inch gap on all sides to open and close, as well as to fit the hinges. But make sure you read the manufacturer’s instructions for your hinges, as some require different spacings.

3. Trim the doors down to size. There are many ways to trim cabinet doors, depending on what tools you have, how much needs to be shaved off, and where. To remove an eighth-inch or more from an entire edge of the board, your best bet is a table saw. Set the fence to the final width and run the board through. Depending on the style of the door, you may want to trim along both parallel edges so the door’s proportions remain the same.

If you need to remove a decent amount of material from part of the edge, as I did, you can use a router with a straightedge and a flush trim bit. I took a strip of plywood with one flat edge, and clamped it along the shallow angle I needed. Then I used the flush trim bit to remove the material.

If you have a small amount of material to remove, turn to a block plane or hand plane. Make sure the blade is properly sharpened and set up so you don’t tear the wood. Keeping the edge you’re working facing up, clamp the door in a vice or get someone to hold it in place. Then run the plane along it, keeping the tool perpendicular to the face of the door. You should get long, curled shavings of wood.  

For those who don’t have a hand plane or who aren’t comfortable using one, use an orbital sander with 60-grit paper.

4. Install the hinges on the door. Different hinges connect to the door and the cabinet with different methods, so it’s important that you read the instructions included with your hardware. Some hinges screw directly to the surface of the door, while others require a mortise cut into the door to sit in. There are jigs available for different kinds of hardware to make this setup easier. If you’re only hanging one or two doors, though, a jig might not be worth the investment—some of them can be expensive. 

Regardless of how your hinges work, pre-drill any screw holes. The last thing you want is your door to split during the final installation.  

• Note: Some hinges may say to attach them to the cabinet first, rather than the door. Absolutely follow the manufacturer’s instructions, not my recommendations here.  

5. Measure and mark where the hinges attach to the cabinet. If possible, hold the door in place to measure where the hinges attach to the cabinet. Shims can help with this, particularly on inset doors. Then mark the center of the hinge on the cabinet and take the door down. If you have extra hardware, center a spare on that line, and mark where the screw holes go. You can also make a drilling template out of a scrap of plywood by marking a “center” line as reference, and use a hinge to position and drill screw holes in relation to that line. Then bring that template to the cabinet, align the centerline to the mark on the cabinet, and drill the holes in the cabinet.  

6. Screw the hinges to the cabinet. This is one step where a helper is worth their weight in gold. Hold the door in place, most likely in the open position, and screw the hinges to the cabinet. Start with the top hinge, because that one can carry the weight of the door without flexing and ripping out of the wood—this might happen if you start with the bottom hinges.

7. Make adjustments as needed. Many hinges have hardware that allow you to make minute adjustments to perfectly line up the doors for equal spacing and straight lines. Fiddle with those as needed to get your door to fit. If those adjustments aren’t enough, you may need to further trim the door. You can use a block plane or sander to peel off small amounts while it’s hanging, but you’ll need to take the door down to remove more material. 

[Related: How to build a DIY beer flight board]

While you’re at it, ensure that any drawer slides function properly with the doors in place. My pantry drawers on one side got stuck on the door—I’d installed the slides not knowing how thick the doors would eventually be. The fix is easy: Use a chisel to carve a slide-sized channel in the back of the door so that the drawers can open and close freely.  

8. Install the door handle or pull. Installing the door pull last lets you install it exactly where you want it, after all the final adjustments have been made. Whether you position it in the middle of the door, lined up with other pulls in the room, or simply at a comfortable height to grab, you can be more accurate once the door is finished and in place.

Knobs and bars are the two most common types of door pulls. Knobs require you to drill a single hole through the door to slide a bolt through that the knob screws onto. Pulls need two bolt holes. Like hinges, there are jigs that will help make measuring the hole locations easier if you’re planning to do a lot of doors, but all you really have to do is measure from the top and closest edge of the door, and mark your hole locations.  

And that’s it. Your door is hung and ready to use. If you’re planning to paint, stain, or otherwise finish the door, take it down and get to work. But if you’re anything like me, it’ll be a few months before you get around to that. For now, just enjoy not having to look at whatever is in that cabinet anymore.

The post A simple guide to hanging cabinet doors appeared first on Popular Science.

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Sometimes the planters at your local hardware store just aren’t enough. They’re missing… something. Gravitas. Prestige. The satisfying scent of cedar, perhaps. Fear not—building your own planter box from cedar fence posts is a straightforward afternoon project, and can add a renewed sense of style to your landscape decor. 

While you can build a planter box out of pretty much any wood (pine is popular because it’s affordable), cedar is great for a few reasons. First and foremost, it’s rot-resistant, so it will stand up to the weather, dirt, and bugs for years and years, even untreated. Second, cedar fence pickets in particular are relatively inexpensive and easy to work with. Finally, cedar actively repels many types of bugs, which is why this wood is used so often in closets. While the scent won’t keep all garden pests at bay, it can deter some, including houseflies, ticks, mosquitos, termites, and certain types of ants, according to the US Department of Agriculture Agricultural Research Service. 

This particular DIY planter box is a straightforward and flexible project. The box I made is 12 inches square and 16 inches tall, but you can easily make one with a 16-by-16-inch or 24-by-24-inch footprint by modifying the dimensions below.  Larger than that, and you’ll probably need to upgrade to a long planter box design. 

Stats 

• Time: 2 to 3 hours
• Materials cost: $30 to $50
• Difficulty: moderate

Materials

• 1 box of (3.5-foot-long) ⅝-by-3.5-inch flat-top cedar fence pickets (about 13 boards)
• Wood glue
• 3/4-inch brad nails
• Scrap of ½-inch plywood approximately 8 by 16 inches, with one flat edge
• (Optional) landscape fabric

Tools

• Miter saw
• Table saw
• Crosscut sled
• Brad nailer
• Level
• Speed square
• Corner clamps
• Clamps
• Strap clamps
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs (120-grit)
• (Optional) scissors
• (Optional) staple gun
• (Optional) jointer

How to build a cedar planter box

1. Cut the fence pickets to rough length. Before properly squaring up the wood, always cut it down to rough length first. You can use a miter saw to trim the fence posts into sections, but I did it on my table saw with a crosscut sled instead because I already had it set up. Cutting the wood into shorter lengths before milling reduces the amount of material you’ll need to remove to get flat surfaces.

3. Rough-sand all the boards. As I mentioned, I didn’t want to lose the rustic look of the fence posts. However, they were still quite rough and I was afraid that if I left them untouched, people would get splinters when planting. So I spent some quality time with my orbital sander and 120-grit paper smoothing out both faces of all of the boards. How long you sand is entirely dependent on your aesthetic preference, but I only did about a minute per face to remove any loose or jagged material. I did smooth the top miter boards and the legs a bit more than the other boards, though—they will be the ones people touch the most. 

4. Separate the boards for the four side panels. The 11-inch panel boards go with the 2.5-inch wide legs and the 10-inch boards go with the 2-inch legs. Don’t forget this, or you’ll wind up with a box with a rectangular footprint instead of a square.

[Related: Benefit your neighborhood bats with this DIY bat box]

5. Build the side panels. Using a scrap of ½-inch plywood and a speed square, you can create a basic jig to align the boards. First, lay one leg on your assembly table, with the long edge flush against the flat edge of the plywood. Align the speed square along the same plywood edge, touching the top of the leg and extending into the plywood. Then smear wood glue on the leg, leaving about a ¾-inch on the edge farthest from the plywood.  

6. Add ledges to the inside of two side panels. Before assembling the planter box, add small ledges to either both wide panels or both narrow panels. It doesn’t matter which panels get these ledges, as long as they’re equal in size. The ledges will hold the boards for the bottom of the box, so they need to be opposite each other. It’s much easier to do this before assembly, so don’t skip this step.

I used the scraps I trimmed off when cutting the legs down to width. To attach, I cut the scraps down to 9 ½ inches long, then glued and brad nailed them into position. 

• Note: I added two rows of ledges so I can adjust the depth of my planter box if needed. The first is 6 inches below the top of the panel, and the second is 9 inches below.

7. Assemble the box. This is an easy assembly, but pay attention. The most important thing to remember is that the narrow panels sit inside the wide panels. This is what makes the planter box a square—if the wide panels sit inside the narrow, you’ll wind up with a rectangle.  

To assemble, spread glue on the inside edge of the legs where you positioned the spacer board in Step 5. Then interlock all of the panels together, standing them up on a flat surface like your assembly table or table saw. This will help keep the bottoms of the legs flush with one another so the planter box doesn’t wobble.  

Once the boards are interlocked, add corner clamps to the top to hold everything square and in place. Then wrap the strap clamps around the outside of the box and tighten them. I used two straps, one about an inch from the top, and the other about an inch from the bottom of the panel boards.   

Make sure all of your planter box’s corners are square. Measure from one corner to the opposite one, and then between the other two—both diagonals should be the same length.

• Note: If you don’t have strap clamps and/or corner clamps, use regular clamps.

8. Trim the boards for the base. The exact measurements will vary somewhat depending on how thick the boards were to start and how much material you sanded off. My boards were just under 10 inches long. Two I left 3.5 inches wide, and I trimmed the third down to about 2.5 inches. The boards should fit snug, but not so tight that they can’t slide in and out.

9. Cut the miters for the top frame. This step is essentially like making a picture frame to fit over the top of the box and hide all those ugly seams. The trick is to make it slightly smaller than the inside dimensions of the box. I left about a ⅛-inch interior overhang on all four sides so I didn’t need to achieve a perfectly flush alignment, which is hard to do with non-milled wood—heck, it’s hard to do with perfectly milled wood.  

Once all four boards are cut, glue them up with a strap clamp if you have one, or regular clamps if not, again ensuring that the frame is square.

10. Glue the top frame to the box. Spread glue along the top edges of the box and align the top frame. Try to keep it square to the sides, and the interior overhang consistent. Clamp the frame into place to let the glue dry.

11. Sand away any glue mess. Chances are that you’ve got some glue squeeze-out to clean up. Use 120-grit paper in your orbital sander and/or hands to finish sanding any areas of the box that need it, particularly around the joints. Don’t worry about the inside of the box—that will be covered in dirt or pots.

12. Insert the base boards. Slide the base boards into place. I didn’t glue or nail these in since there’s no way for them to fall out. This allows me to move them in the future if I need to change the depth of the box for any reason. 

The post Liven up your yard by building this cedar planter box appeared first on Popular Science.

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Bats are a critical part of ecosystems worldwide and provide a number of significant benefits to humans, including pest control, pollination, and seed disbursement. Of those three, the biggest reason you might want bats around is likely their ability to hunt insects that are hunting you.

I based these bat house plans on a design published by Bat Conservation International, with a few modifications—what woodworker follows plans exactly? My bat box, for example, is two chambers instead of four, simply because of the amount of wood I had available. I also used cedar fence pickets instead of exterior plywood because they were cheaper, and decided not to put a vent on the side due to the cold climate in Massachusetts.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 4 to 6 hours
• Material cost: $40 to $60
• Difficulty: moderate

Materials

• 1 box of (3.5-foot-long) ⅝-by-3.5-inch flat-top cedar fence pickets (about 13 boards)
• Wood glue
• 1-inch brad nails
• Exterior painter’s caulk
• Black exterior spray paint

Tools

• Miter saw
• Table saw
• Crosscut sled
• Clamps
• Parallel clamps
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs (60- and 120-grit)
• (Optional) jointer

How to build a bat house

1. Cut the fence pickets to length on your miter saw. Before jointing wood, always cut the boards down to rough length. This makes flattening easier, and cuts down on the amount of material you’ll need to remove from warped boards.

This bat box consists of three panels, each made from different lengths of wood. Although you can cut the middle and front panel boards exactly the same length because they will be the same size (24 by 18 inches), I did not. I was able to use my wood more efficiently by making the front and back panels from vertical 24-inch boards, and the middle one out of horizontal 18-inch planks. This worked because I could get one 18- and one 24-inch board out of each 42-inch fence picket. Here’s how my panel groupings broke down:

• Back panel: six (30-inch) boards
• Middle panel: eight (18-inch) boards
• Front panel: six (24-inch) boards

2. Joint one face and edge on each board. If you don’t have a jointer, you can skip face jointing for this project, and just edge joint on your table saw. But if you have access to a jointer, cleaning up one face will make assembly easier.  

• Note: The jointed faces of the boards should be the outside of your panels. I left the insides of my panels rough so the bats would have an easier time clinging to them, though we will add more texture later.

3. Trim all the boards to width on your table saw. I picked 3 inches to make all of the math easy, even though I wound up with a bit more waste than was strictly necessary. 

4. Glue the front and back panels together. Building panels is one of the core skills required for many woodworking projects, and a good set of parallel clamps will help immensely. Fully open your clamps and set them down side by side, about 2 inches closer together than the full width of your panels. Lay the boards across them, jointed faces down, and press the boards together by hand to make sure all the seams are tight. If they aren’t, clean them up on your jointer or table saw.

Once you’re satisfied with the layout, spread a line of glue on each touching edge of the boards, and press them together. Tighten the clamps until glue squeezes out of the seams. Then add two more clamps between and parallel to the first pair of clamps, but on top of the panel instead of below. This will give the panel a bit more stability and reduce the chance of warping.

• Pro tip: To help prevent warping even more, use cauls on each end of the panel (I skipped this step and regretted it because I got a bit of warp that I had to fix).

5. Cut the rails for the panels. This bat house has two chambers, which basically means it’s two boxes stacked together. To create those boxes, you’ll need two pairs of rails for the panels to sit on to form cavities for the bats to roost in. I crafted my rails from the scraps left over from building the panels. I had several 12-inch-long boards, so I cut eight ⅞-inch strips out of those to make the four rails.

6. Cut grooves into both sides of the 18-inch boards for the middle panel. The bats most likely to roost in a box are used to spending time in trees, says David Mizejewski, a naturalist at the nonprofit National Wildlife Federation. This means the box should be textured like a tree to give the animals something to hold on to. Shallow grooves spaced between ¼- and ½-inch apart work nicely, according to Bat Conservation International.

[Related: What bats and metal vocalists have in common]

Set the height of your table saw to between 1/16 and ⅛ inch high. Then set the fence about a quarter-inch from the blade, and run all of your middle panel boards over it, on both faces. Then move the fence another quarter inch away from the blade and run the boards again. Continue until you’ve cut grooves along both faces of all eight boards.

• Note: Older bat house plans might recommend installing wire mesh, but many conservationists now recommend against that because there’s a chance the bats will get tangled in it.

7. Square the front and back panels, then cut grooves. Once these two panels are dry according to the glue manufacturer’s instructions, trim both ends of one panel, squaring them to its edges. The easiest tool for this is a crosscut sled on your table saw. Once the ends are square, leave the panel on the sled to cut graspable grooves. Set the blade height between 1/16 and ⅛ inch, and cut grooves every quarter-inch or so. These don’t have to be precise. Just slide the panel over a bit at a time. Repeat this step with the other panel.

• Warning: This is the sort of operation where it’s easy to lose focus and hurt yourself by grabbing or moving at the wrong place or wrong time. Make sure you pull the sled all the way back so you can freely move the panel without touching the blade.

8. Assemble the first chamber. Lay the back panel down flat with the textured and grooved side facing up. Place the rails onto the face, aligned with each edge and with about 2 inches between the top of the panel and the start of each rail. This gap leaves room to hang the box. Glue the rails in place and further secure them with 1-inch brad nails.

Then glue and brad nail the 18-inch boards across the rails to form the middle panel. Clamp everything together until the glue dries.

9. Assemble the second chamber. Once the first chamber is secure and dry, build the second, gluing rails to the middle panel and securing the front panel to those with glue, clamps, and brad nails.

10. Add a roof. Glue and brad nail one final board, 18 inches long and 3 inches wide, across the top of both cavities as a roof. Rather than cutting a dedicated piece to size, however, I used some of the cutoff scraps I had, making sure to butt them as tight together as I could. 

11. Sand everything smoothish. This is one of those magical projects where sanding doesn’t matter too much. I used 60-grit sandpaper on my orbital sander to clean up any boards that were slightly out of alignment or particularly rough. Then I sanded everything with 120-grit paper. Because the bat box will be painted, hung quite high, and won’t be touched a lot (by people anyway), there was no point in going further than that.  

12. Fill in all the gaps with caulk. “Make sure that all of the seams are tight and there aren’t a lot of gaps because heat is the key thing,” says Mizejewski. “The bats really want it to stay warm in there. If the bat house is drafty, that’s going to make it less attractive.” Fill in all of those gaps between the panels and the rails with exterior-rated painter’s caulk. If you’re planning to stain your box, which you can do if you live in a warmer climate than I do in New England, you might want to use stainable wood filler instead of caulk.  

13. Paint or finish the exterior of your box. Keeping with the theme of creating a warm house, it’s important to maximize the amount of heat absorption the box gets from the sun. That means dark colors. Bat Conservation International recommends painting bat boxes black in cold climates, but if you live in a more temperate climate, a dark brown paint or stain can be enough. If you live in a particularly warm area, you may be fine leaving the natural color of your wood.  

14. Hang the box. “This is probably one of the more important things if you actually want the bat house to work,” says Mizejewski. “Mounting is what people often get wrong, and then the box does not work.” In order to move in, bats need to feel that the box is warm enough, close to water, and safe from predators.

[Related: How to get a bat out of your house]

Oddly enough, hanging bat houses on trees doesn’t work well, even though bats often roost directly in trees. It can be too shady and cool among the branches, and it’s easier for predators to climb up and into the box. Instead, it’s best to install bat boxes on the side of a building or on a pole, between 10 and 20 feet in the air. Bat Conservation International has put together a few documents for the best installation methods, whether on a pole or on the side of your house or another building.

The post Benefit your neighborhood bats with this DIY bat house appeared first on Popular Science.

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What’s better than one glass of beer? Four glasses. Beer flights are a fun way to try out a variety of flavors in manageable quantities, and if you’re a home brewer they can help you present your latest concoctions in style. They’re also an opportunity to showcase what an amazing woodworker you are—and even if you’re not, this project is simple enough that people will think you are.

At its most basic, a beer flight board is a plank of wood with some shallow holes to hold the glasses, but there are a few ways to upgrade this easy DIY project. You can use your router or table saw to create fancy edge decoration, build it from multiple kinds of wood glued together in a pretty pattern, or play with burning or inlaying a design. For mine, I used live edge boards to make the trays, which will be large enough to hold four 5-ounce glasses.

Live edge boards are sawn the full width of the tree, so the natural, wavy edges remain. They usually come with the bark attached. Keeping that edge can bring a natural feel to any project—some of my favorite tables have live edges. And although it looks elaborate, there’s nothing complicated about working with live edges.

Of course, if you don’t have a live edge board, or want a different design, you can use any kind of wood you have available, as long as it will fit the number of glasses you’re looking for.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 1 to 2 hours
• Material cost: $20 to $50
• Difficulty: easy

Materials

• 1 (12- to 14-inch-long) board
• Beer tasting glasses
• Polyurethane

Tools

• Chisels
• Wire brush
• Measuring tape
• Jointer
• Planer
• Miter saw
• Table saw
• Crosscut sled
• Drill
• 2-inch Forstner bit (or whatever size fits your glasses)
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs (80-, 120-, 150-, and 220-grit)
• (Optional) plunge router
• (Optional) pattern flush trim router bit
• (Optional) ½ -inch scrap board, approximately 4 by 14 inches

Once the bark is gone, strip off all remaining fibers to get down to bare wood. If you leave behind the strands that held the bark onto the tree, they can ruin your eventual finish. An orbital sander is the fastest way to smooth these edges, though it can remove some of the natural contour and charm of the edge if you’re not careful. A wire brush and hand sanding with 80-grit paper is a less aggressive option, though it takes longer.

2. Mill your board to size. Beer flights are meant to sit flat on a table, counter, or bar, so it’s important that you actually mill the board. The best way to mill wood is to flatten one face and edge on a jointer, then flatten the opposite face in a planer. Finally, trim the board to width on a table saw and to length with a miter saw. 

For boards with two live edges, like mine, you don’t need to bother with the edges—leave them natural.

If you don’t have a jointer and planer, you can flatten with your sander or a hand plane, or buy wood that is pre-flattened.

To comfortably fit four glasses, I milled my boards to 14 inches long, about 4 inches wide, and ¾-inch thick.

3. Measure the hole spacings. Where to put the holes depends on the size of the glasses you’re using and the look you’re going for. My cups had 2-inch diameter bases, but bulged out to about 2.5 inches at the top. I had to make sure to leave room for the bulge, along with space between them.

On my 14-inch-long beer flight board, I centered the glasses 1 ¾ inches from each end and 3.5 inches from one another. This left plenty of space between them.

4. Cut the holes for the glasses. These holes should be slightly larger than the base of the glass, and about a quarter of an inch deep. The easiest way to cut them is with a Forstner bit and a drill—a drill press is even better if you have one. However, the problem with a Forstner bit is that it leaves behind an ugly (in my opinion) dimple in the very center of the hole. If you don’t mind that dimple, by all means build it that way. Many people do.

Set the depth stop of your plunge router to a quarter-inch below the flight wood, and route out the holes, running the bearing of the patterning bit along the edge of the plywood. This produces perfectly flat, uniform holes, and you can reuse the plywood on any other flights you make with the same spacings.

5. Sand until you have visions of the desert. Sanding separates good from great in woodworking. Use a random orbit sander to work through the grits: 120, 150, and 220. Then comes the really hard part: hand-sanding the holes. These don’t have to be perfect because people likely won’t touch them much, but you do want to sand away any unsightly drill or router marks.

6. Raise the grain and sand again. When wood gets wet, the fibers absorb water and swell. After sanding, this causes a rough finish to emerge the first time the wood comes in contact with water (or spilled beer). Beat the swelling to the punch by lightly wetting every surface of your beer flight boards and then hand-sanding the whole thing again with 220-grit paper. This will eliminate the raised grain that can ruin the feel of a good finish.

7. Apply the finish of your choice. Most finishes will work fine here, aside from shellac, which can be dissolved by alcohol. I chose spray-on polyurethane, for several reasons. One, it’s durable and reliable. Two, the spray makes it easy to completely coat both the holes and the live edge. And most importantly, I had half a can left on my shelf from another project that I needed to use.

The post Serve any brew in style with this DIY beer flight board appeared first on Popular Science.

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After spending countless hours putting together a killer workstation, you have a tricked-out desktop computer, multiple monitors, bangin’ speakers, and… a computer desk that’s too tiny to fit it all. Here’s how to build your own ergonomic, customized computer table that displays all your tech, looks awesome—and doesn’t break the bank.

What you’ll need

There are an infinite number of ways to construct a desk. But for this particular project, I have four criteria I need my DIY computer desk to hit:

1. Large: The vast majority of desks you’ll find in the store are 60 inches long or less. I needed a large computer desk at least 80 inches across to fit all my gear, and the few store-bought options I found just didn’t cut it. They were either ugly and cheaply made, or too expensive—a large, decent-quality one will run you at least $400.
2. Cheap: Making something yourself instead of buying it almost always saves some money—in this case, it’s going to cut hundreds of dollars from the price. Our materials cost about $250 new, but depending on your deal-hunting skills and the parts you already have lying around, you’ll hopefully be able to get everything for $150 or less. That’s about half the price of most store-bought desks this size. Since there are so many different options for materials, make sure you pick the best wood for desktop. The type of wood you choose can depend on what color or design you’re going for as well as how much weight it will have to support.
3. Easy: You can fabricate an entire desk out of a single sheet of plywood or medium-density fiberboard (MDF) for under $100, but doing so requires a lot of tools and know-how. We want our project to be accessible to anyone, including those without lots of woodworking experience—even if that boosts the price a little.
4. Ergonomic: Too many people ignore the difference between a custom “computer desk” and a “writing desk.” Over time, those differences can wreak havoc on your body. In this project, I’m going to mix the sleek look of the latter with the ergonomics of the former to get the best of both worlds.

After lots of research, I decided to construct my desk out of a door slab and some adjustable desk legs from Ikea. It knocks all four goals out of the park, and as a bonus, you should be able to find the parts easily, no matter where you live. Here’s what I used.

The surface

For a big piece of furniture like this, you need a spacious desktop. And there are a few slabs you could try.

The Ikea Karlby countertop has become incredibly popular due to its large size and relative affordability—it costs between $100 and $200, depending on the size and color. Although you could use one with this guide, I wanted to go even cheaper. So I got a big door for my tabletop.

Doors have very reasonable price points, with new ones selling for $50 to $100. If you scour Craigslist, you can probably find some that cost even less, or pick up a free one if you’re really lucky. A door won’t be quite as polished around the edges as the Karlby, and it may require extra work to stain or paint, but I dig the more industrial look. Keep an eye out for something that’s solid core (not hollow) and has a width that matches your ideal desk depth—most doors range from 24 to 36 inches wide. If you have a circular saw, you can always cut a larger slab down to size, but for a patient shopper, that shouldn’t be necessary.

[Related: The best safety advice for any beginner woodworker]

I opted for a door that shows off the wood grain. Then I sanded, stained, and finished it myself. If you end up using a secondhand door, you may have to deal with a hole where the handle used to be, though you can always use it for cable management in the back. In my case, I hid the hole under my mouse and keyboard mat.

While most people would recommend standard desk legs or industrial pipe, I chose Ikea’s Olov legs. At $15 apiece, they’re a bit more expensive than Ikea’s regular table legs, but they’re adjustable, which means you can find the perfect height for you. This is crucial for good ergonomics, so it’s well worth the extra cost.

Again, hunt Craigslist to see if you can find cheaper legs. I bought a used table containing five Olovs from a neighbor. It cost $30 total—much less than the $75 Ikea would charge for five new legs.

The drawers

No workspace is complete without a place to stash your flash drives, sticky notes, and other miscellanea. I recommend that you fulfill this requirement with a filing cabinet or set of drawers that matches your ideal desk height (for a guide to calculating that height, see the next section) so you can use it as one of the legs. Because it depends on your own size, this component will be very personal.

I don’t want to sound like a broken record, but Craigslist is your friend here—though Wayfair will also do if you don’t have a bustling secondhand market in your area. I used a filing cabinet I already had in my house with a plastic desk organizer jury-rigged into the top drawer to hold all my stuff.

Everything else

Those are the bones of our build, but you’ll probably want a few other things to pull it all together. I highly recommend two of these anti-sag stiffeners, which are important for large pieces of furniture that tend to sink under their own weight.

I bought an unfinished door and stained it myself, so I also needed wood stain and a semi-gloss polyurethane.

Other items will help keep your gear in order. If your computer monitors aren’t height-adjustable, you may want to prop them up on something like a monitor stand. To really tidy up your workspace, I also recommend some sort of cable management, like a rain gutter or the Ikea Signum tray. Be sure to add a mousepad too—it’ll protect the desk surface from black marks and excessive wear.

Last, you’ll need two tools: a drill and a screwdriver (or a drive bit for your drill). You must attach everything to the wood with screws, but you’ll want a drill to create pilot holes, and a drive bit will make it much easier to put the pieces together. If you don’t own one, borrow a drill from a neighbor.

Building the desk

2. Plan the ergonomics. While you’re waiting for the door to dry, do a little ergonomic experimentation. Grab your desk chair and adjust the seat height and arm rests to a comfortable position. Your feet should be flat on the ground, with your elbows and knees at approximate 90-degree angles. Once you’ve got your position just right, measure the distance from the floor to the top of the arm rests, and then subtract the thickness of your surface—usually about an inch and a half. The resulting measurement is the setting you’ll want for your Olov legs, as well as the ideal height for your filing cabinet or drawers. Write it down, and buy the drawers if you plan to include them.

3. Place your parts. When your slab is ready, flip it upside down and plan out your build, starting with the legs. I recommend one leg in each of the four corners, with a fifth one in the center of the back edge for support. If you plan on incorporating that filing cabinet, it will replace one of those front legs.

Next, grab your anti-sag braces and find a place for them near the middle of the surface. If they bump up against the area where you plan to put your filing cabinet, you may need to set them slightly off-center. If you have any cable management trays, stick them in whatever empty space you have left over. I’m using an Ikea Signum tray and mounting my surge protector on its underside. I had to do a little finagling to find room for everything, so it’s a good idea to plan this all out before you start drilling holes.

4. Start assembling. Once you’ve found a place for everything, mark and drill some pilot holes for the legs, anti-sag braces, and anything else you’re attaching to the underside. This is critical: If you just start screwing into the surface, you’re likely to split the wood. Attach everything, including the leg brackets, except for the legs themselves. This will take some time and elbow grease, so again, I recommend using your drill as a driver to make things go a lot faster.

5. Add the legs. Now’s a good time to carry your door into the office for the last few steps—you’ll find it a lot less cumbersome to move before attaching the legs. Once it’s arrived in its new home, screw the Olov legs into the brackets. You can then adjust them to your desired height by unscrewing the bottom, sliding them out, and screwing them clockwise to tighten them.

6. Check the stability and height. Now, flip your desk over and stick the filing cabinet underneath. Ensure that everything is level. (If you don’t own a level, your phone may have a rudimentary one built in.)

While you’re reviewing the desk’s stability, also check its height with your chair. It may seem awfully low to the ground, but that’s because most desks are designed for writing, not computing. Computer desks are usually writing height, with a keyboard tray at arm level. You could set your home-built desk higher and use a screw-on keyboard tray to improve the ergonomics, but I prefer to put everything on one big, flat surface.

7. Set everything up. Once you’ve double-checked the size and stability of your creation, set up your computer, adjust your monitor so the top is at eye level, and enjoy your new custom workspace!

Make it your own

The post Build your own desk with custom features like USB ports and biometrics appeared first on Popular Science.

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Spicy food is exciting. Eating it comes with the thrill of consuming something that is meant to hurt you—contests like Paqui’s One Chip Challenge have gone viral many times over. When you cook, adding a bit of heat can be a good way to get a visceral reaction from your guests. And for a truly personal touch, you can craft a hot sauce recipe that’s entirely your own.

Before you start

When you’re handling hot peppers, it’s important to keep your hands away from your eyes and other sensitive areas so you don’t accidentally irritate your skin. Capsaicin—the chemical compound in hot peppers that makes you feel like your mouth is burning—is largely found in the placenta, or the white stuff that connects the colorful flesh with the seeds. Use particular caution there. With milder peppers, like jalapeños or serranos, the decision to use gloves is up to you, but if you use your bare hands, make sure to wash them thoroughly when you’re done.

If you’re using a superhot pepper like the bhut jolokia or Carolina reaper, definitely wear gloves and be careful with the whole thing: their skin contains capsaicin too, according to Paul Bosland, director of New Mexico State University’s Chile Pepper Institute. Workers at Puckerbutt Pepper Company, where the Carolina reaper was invented, use two pairs of gloves when handling the peppers because the outer pair will wear off in just 30 minutes.

[Related: Why do people like spicy food?]

Although capsaicin is absolutely an irritant, the heat response you feel when touching or eating hot peppers is more of a biological trick. Your skin has one sensory receptor that responds to heat, and capsaicin can bind to that receptor, tricking your body into thinking it’s hot, Bosland says. Capsaicin attaches to fats and oils, but not water, so Bosland suggests reaching for any kind of milk if you eat something too hot. This heat-quenching strategy could be useful as you refine your hot sauce recipe. 

Stats

• Time: 15 to 30 minutes
• Ingredient cost: $10
• Difficulty: easy
• Yield: about 1 pint

Tools

• Cutting board
• Chef’s knife
• Blender
• Storage containers (like old hot sauce bottles or mason jars)
• (Optional) oven
• (Optional) funnel

How to make mild hot sauce

A pepper’s spice level is measured using the Scoville Heat Unit scale (SHU). Pure capsaicin is approximately 16 million SHU, and the Carolina reaper runs at about 1.5 million. This sauce uses jalapeños (about 8,000 SHU) and a roasted poblano (around 1,000 SHU) for a mild concoction with a lot of flavor.

This sauce came out green because all the peppers I used were green, but if you want a red hot sauce, you could use Fresno, Calabrian, or cayenne peppers. Beyond the base pepper-vinegar-salt combo, you can add a few cloves of garlic and some ground cumin if you want to make the flavor more complex. 

Ingredients

• 4 jalapeños
• ½ cup of white vinegar
• 1 teaspoon of kosher salt
• 4 garlic cloves
• Black pepper
• (Optional) 1 poblano pepper
• (Optional) 1 teaspoon of ground cumin

Instructions

1. (Optional) Roast the poblano. Preheat your oven to broil, then wash your poblano pepper. When the oven is ready, roast the pepper for five minutes on each side, 10 minutes total. You’re looking for charred, blackened skin, so feel free to cook for another five or 10 minutes if you’re not satisfied with the results.

2. Prepare your ingredients. Wash your peppers if you haven’t already, then remove their stems and peel the garlic cloves. Cut the jalapeños and poblano into halves or quarters, depending on their size. Since all of this will be blended together, you don’t have to finely chop the ingredients.

3. Blend everything. Put the halved peppers, garlic, white vinegar, and kosher salt into your blender, and blend until all the ingredients are well combined, about one minute.

4. Add seasonings. Despite the name of our publication, cooking can definitely be more of an art than a science sometimes. Before you add anything, taste the blend to figure out what’s missing. After my first spin, I added a teaspoon of ground cumin, eight cranks of black pepper, and another splash of white vinegar. If you think the sauce is too acidic, you can add a bit of sugar. If you want a very runny hot sauce (like Tabasco) you can add more vinegar. You can also dilute the vinegar with water to avoid making the sauce too acidic. 

• Note: This recipe is light on vinegar because I wanted a slightly more viscous sauce. It’s also important to remember that while you can always add more of an ingredient, you can’t add less, so use moderation if you’re unsure about proportions.

5. Blend everything again. Incorporate the seasonings you added by blending the mixture for another minute. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you’re satisfied with how your sauce looks and tastes. 

6. Bottle it up. Once you’re happy with the taste of your homemade hot sauce, it’s time to store it. You can reuse old (clean) hot sauce bottles by putting a funnel into the bottle and pouring your new sauce in. If you have a few mason jars lying around the house, you can use those instead.

How to make spicier hot sauce

For a hotter sauce, I decided to use Thai (or bird’s eye) chilies. These chilies are small and packed with heat, coming in at roughly 100,000 SHU, so I added a red bell pepper to reduce the spice and increase the volume of my sauce. Hot sauces are normally made with white vinegar, apple cider vinegar, or rice vinegar, and I chose the last of those three for this because it’s the sweetest and least acidic—I was concerned about too many conflicting tastes. I also added some soy sauce (and halved the amount of salt so the sauce wasn’t too salty), garlic, and ginger to add a different type of pungent flavor.

Ingredients

• About ⅛ pound of Thai chilies
• 1 red bell pepper
• ½ teaspoon of kosher salt
• 2 garlic cloves
• 1 small knob of ginger
• ½ cup of rice vinegar
• ¼ cup of soy sauce
• (Optional) toasted sesame oil

Instructions

1. Prepare your ingredients. Wash your chilies and pepper, then remove their stems. Roughly chop the bell pepper. The Thai chilies are small enough that you can just leave them whole. Remove the skin from both the garlic and ginger.

2. Blend everything together. Put the peppers, chilies, garlic, ginger, rice vinegar, soy sauce, and kosher salt into your blender, and blend on high until the ingredients are well combined. This may take one to two minutes.

• Note: You may have to stop the blender and scrape down the sides a few times to ensure all ingredients are fully mixed into the sauce.

3. Add seasonings. For this sauce, the only additional seasoning I used was toasted sesame oil. Its flavor can be overwhelming, so add extremely small amounts if you use it, tasting until you reach your preferred flavor.

The post Experiment with spice by making this homemade hot sauce appeared first on Popular Science.

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Best budget		Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine		SEE IT	An affordable,mechanical machine with a variety of built-in stitches, a well-designed walking foot for sewing layers of fabric, and attachments for quilting.
Best computerized		Brother HC1850 Sewing and Quilting Machine		SEE IT	A computerized machine with automatic drop feed for the free-motion sewing technique utilized by many quilters.

The best sewing machine for quilting is one that suits the quilter’s level of expertise as well as their budget, all while providing features and functionality that accommodate the sewing of large, bulky materials. Many quilters engage in sewing garments, home decor items, and craft projects in addition to quilting. For these sewists, versatile sewing machines fit the bill. While shopping for sewing machines, they may search for built-in, decorative stitches, as well as buttonhole stitches and monogramming fonts.

On the other hand, serious quilters may seek out high-speed machines that produce only straight stitches for quilting. Additionally, they might select models that provide exceptionally large throat space and extended work tables to accommodate the bulky materials of large quilts. Here are our picks for the best sewing machines for quilting.

• Best overall: Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing Machine
• Best computerized: Brother HC1850 Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best with a wide work table: Brother PQ1500SL Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best with a large throat: Juki TL-2000Qi Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best for free-motion sewing: Janome MC6650 Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best budget: Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine

How we chose the best sewing machines for quilting

Alliance, a 2020 survey revealed a quilting market estimated at $4.2 billion per year. Additionally, the group estimates that between 9 million and 11 million quilters in North America are actively involved in the art of quilt-making. Each quilting enthusiast seeks to utilize the best sewing machines for quilting, crafting, and sewing their unique projects, and each can find a specialized machine that suits their needs here. 

To begin our research on the best sewing machines for quilting, we read the product descriptions and specifications for 14 sewing and quilting machines from five different manufacturers. From that research, we selected six machines for our list of recommendations. To identify them, we took a deeper dive into the details, features, and specifications as described on the manufacturers’ websites. These companies are well-respected leaders in the production of sewing and quilting machines; they include Singer, Brother, Janome, and Juki. In addition to reading the product descriptions, we gleaned additional information about the machines from critical and customer reviews and the answers to FAQs. 

We considered both computerized and mechanical sewing machines for quilting with special attention to automatic features that save time and effort for the user. Additionally, we searched for machines that include wide extension tables to accommodate the large swaths of fabric required for quilt-making projects. Knowing that the quilter must maneuver the bulky fabric through the machine, we considered the throat size of each machine. Additional factors included the availability of quilting feet, quilting guide bars, and drop-feed functioning for free-motion sewing. Although we did not limit our selections to machines with low-end price points, we did consider value and expense in our selection process.

The best sewing machines for quilting: Reviews & Recommendations

Best overall: Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing Machine

SINGER

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Why it made the cut: With a large, attachable work table, a vast array of built-in stitches, and numerous automatic features to save time and effort, the Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 sewing machine is favored by quilters.

Specs

• Weight: 20 pounds
• Product dimensions: 17.25 inches long by 8.25 inches wide by 12 inches high
• Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros 

• Speed control with high-speed capacity
• Includes 14 interchangeable, attachable feet
• 600 built-in stitches with 5 fonts for monogramming
• Extension table for larger work area

Cons 

• The throat is not as large as some machines

The Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 computerized sewing machine receives high praise from quilters. Additionally, it’s a versatile machine that lends itself to myriad, creative sewing projects in addition to quilting. With an enormous array of 600 built-in stitches and five alphanumeric fonts, this machine allows sewists to fulfill their most imaginative quilting dreams. Quilters may elongate and mirror-image many of the built-in stitches to achieve truly unique designs.

In addition to accessories such as needles and bobbins, this machine includes a large extension table that is ideal for working with bulky quilts. Included, interchangeable accessories facilitate multiple sewing tasks, including: Quilting guide bar; General purpose foot; Zipper foot; Buttonhole foot; Satin foot; Blind hem foot; Narrow hem foot; Open toe foot; Cording foot; Darning/embroidery foot (may be used for free-motion sewing); Even feed/walking foot; Overcasting foot; Button sewing foot; and Quarter-inch foot.

The Quantum Stylist 9960 is capable of numerous functions that make sewing and quilting easier and more enjoyable. The speed control allows fast sewing of up to 850 stitches per minute for straight seams. Alternatively, sewers can select a slower pace for intricate patterns. For quick set-up, the see-through bobbin features a top drop-in design that allows easy monitoring of the thread supply. When it’s time to thread the needle, the machine accomplishes the job automatically, eliminating frustration and eye strain.

Best computerized: Brother HC1850 Sewing and Quilting Machine

Brother

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Why it made the cut: The Brother HC1850 computerized sewing machine offers quilter-friendly features, such as a spring-action quilting foot and free-motion sewing along with push-button stitch selection and a backlit LCD screen.

Specs

• Weight: 10.14 pounds
• Product dimensions: 19.2 inches long by 12.5 inches wide by 15.2 inches high
• Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros 

• Automatic drop feed for free-motion sewing
• 185 built-in stitches
• Large table workspace
• Automatic needle threader

Cons 

• The throat is not as large as some machines

Many quilters engage in various types of creative sewing projects, but they look for specific quilting functions when they shop for sewing machines. The Brother HC1850 computerized machine offers several preferred quilting features. These include a detachable wide table, a spring-action quilting foot, and the capability to perform free-motion sewing. On top of that, the machine boasts 185 built-in stitches, including 55 alphanumeric stitches for monogramming and eight one-step buttonhole stitches. Users may consult the built-in stitch flip-chart and select their preferred stitch patterns with push-button ease. Their selections display clearly on a backlit LCD screen. 

Numerous features of this machine facilitate creative quilting, sewing, and monogramming activities. Both the top drop-in bobbin and the automatic needle-threading system assist in quick and easy set-up. A speed-control system allows sewers to accomplish fast stitching for straight seams or utilize a slower pace for free-motion sewing and intricate patterns. At any speed, the advanced feed system ensures the smooth movement of multiple, diverse fabric types through the machine. Additionally, the bright LED light illuminates the work area for precision sewing.

The Brother HC1850 machine includes eight interchangeable feet for a variety of sewing and quilting functions, including: Spring-action quilting foot; Blindstitch foot; Buttonhole foot; Button-fitting foot; Overcasting foot; Monogramming foot; Zipper foot; and Zigzag foot. Additional accessories include needles, bobbins, a seam ripper, a screwdriver, and more.

Best with a wide work table: Brother PQ1500SL Sewing and Quilting Machine

Brother

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Why it made the cut: Boasting an extra-wide work table and a large throat, the Brother PQ1500SL machine adds a pin-feed mechanism, a built-in knee lifter, and four feed-dog adjustments to make quilting a dream come true.

Specs

• Weight: 29.76 pounds
• Product dimensions: 19.3 inches long by 7.9 inches wide by 12.6 inches high
• Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros 

• High-speed straight stitching
• Large throat area for bulky quilts
• Extra-large table work area
• Pin feed mechanism

Cons 

• A bit expensive
• Straight stitches only, no built-in, decorative stitches

For passionate quilters, the Brother PQ1500SL sewing machine offers several advantages over other machines that promote versatility for multiple types of sewing projects. It’s a straight-stitch machine that is capable of high-speed operation, up to 1,500 stitches per minute. But it does not offer built-in, decorative stitching options.

This machine provides the necessary workspace to create large quilts. The extra-wide, attachable table measures 11 inches by 21.5 inches. Additionally, the throat area is larger than most machines. It provides a needle-to-arm space of 5.7 inches by 8.6 inches. Both the extension table and the throat accommodate the extra bulk of quilting projects. 

When the feed-dog system is used, the machine allows four optional settings to achieve maximum control of diverse fabric types. Alternatively, this machine offers the option of a pin-feed mechanism that operates in lieu of the feed-dog system. An adjustable pin extends from below to maneuver all layers of a quilt together in a smooth feed through the machine. The spring-action quilting foot adjusts to variations in the layers and thickness of the fabric as it feeds through the machine. Additionally, the built-in knee lifter is a handy feature for quilters. It allows the sewer to lift and lower the presser foot by moving a lever with their knee. Therefore, the user’s hands are free to control the movement of the fabric. 

Along with needles, bobbins, and additional accessories, the machine includes seven interchangeable sewing feet, including: Spring-action quilting foot; Walking foot; Quarter-inch foot; General purpose foot; Rolled hem foot; Adjustable zipper/piping foot; and Invisible zipper foot.

Best with a large throat: Juki TL-2000Qi Sewing and Quilting Machine

JUKI

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Why it made the cut: With its large throat area and wide, attachable table, the Juki TL-2000Qi sewing machine offers ample workspace for manipulating bulky quilting materials. 

Specs

• Weight: 25.4 pounds
• Product dimensions: 17.8 inches long by 8.6 inches wide by 13.8 inches high
• Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros 

• High-speed sewing, up to 1,500 stitches per minute
• Large throat area
• Wide, attachable extension table
• Knee lifter

Cons 

• Straight stitches only; does not include decorative stitches

With headquarters in Tokyo, Japan, the Juki Corporation and Juki America, Inc. provide sewing equipment for industrial use, as well as home sewing machines. The Juki TL2000Qi sewing machine is favored by quilters as a single-needle, lockstitch machine that is well-suited for high-speed, precision, straight-stitch sewing. One of its features favored by quilters is the large throat area, measuring 8.5 inches long by 5.9 inches high. Additionally, an attachable extension table offers extra space for sewing bulky quilts. 

Several convenient features make this sewing machine a delight to use. The automatic needle threader takes the frustration out of threading the needle, and the automatic thread trimmer cuts both the needle and bobbin threads simultaneously with only a light push of a button. An enlarged bobbin case area makes it easier than ever to remove and replace the bobbins. The knee lifter allows sewers to raise and lower the presser foot without using their hands. This feature means that users can keep their hands on the fabric at all times for greater control.

Simply turn a regulator on top of the machine to adjust the presser foot pressure for diverse types of fabric. Use the Needle Up/Down control to designate the needle position when the machine stops. A down position facilitates a pivoting action that is useful in the free-motion sewing technique required for many quilting projects.

The Juki TL2000Qi machine is capable of high-speed sewing, producing up to 1,500 stitches per minute. The arm and bed are constructed of die-cast aluminum to produce only minimal vibration when the machine is in use. Accessories and interchangeable feet include the following: Needle pack, bobbins, and spool cap; Screwdriver and lint brush; ⅕-inch quilting foot; Even-feed foot; Compensating presser foot; and Standard presser foot.

Best for free-motion sewing: Janome MC6650 Sewing and Quilting Machine

Janome

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Why it made the cut: The Janome Memory Craft 6650 sewing machine facilitates free-motion sewing, as well as offers a plethora of convenient features and accessories for creating beautiful, heirloom-quality quilts.

Specs

• Weight: 24.25 pounds
• Product dimensions: 20 inches long by 9 inches wide by 12 inches high
• Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros 

• Drop-feed capability for free-motion sewing
• 6 LED lights in 3 locations
• High speed up to 1,000 stitches per minute
• 170 built-in stitches + 2 alphabets

Cons 

• Upper-end price point

Serious quilters who want to achieve new heights of artistic expression through their quilting projects may be interested in the computerized Janome Memory Craft 6650 sewing and quilting machine. One of the trademark techniques for quilters is free-motion sewing. This machine facilitates that technique through its drop-feed capability that lowers the feed dogs to disengage their hold on the fabric. Additionally, the programmable needle up/down feature allows users to pivot the fabric when the machine stops with the needle in the down position. Among the standard accessories, the MC6650 includes interchangeable parts for free-motion sewing, such as a convertible, free-motion quilting foot set; a free-motion quilting holder; and a free-motion quilting zigzag foot.

Create imaginative and unique quilts with the 170 built-in stitches, including many decorative options. A backlit LCD screen displays the stitches, and users simply push a button to make their selections. The built-in stitches include two alphabets for monogramming quilts and other sewing projects. Slide a lever to control the machine’s operating speed, up to 1,000 stitches per minute. 

Numerous, convenient features make the Janome MC6650 a joy to operate. The machine includes two needle plates along with a one-push needle plate conversion mechanism. An automatic needle threading system takes the annoyance out of threading the needle. The entire work area is well-lit via six LED lights placed in three locations on the machine. Use the manual thread-tension control to adjust the tension for various fabric types, then enjoy the smooth feed of fabric facilitated by the 5-piece feed-dog system.

In addition to the free-motion accessories mentioned above, the Janome MC6650 machine offers an array of standard, interchangeable parts for versatility in sewing projects, including: Blind hem foot G; Buttonhole foot; Darning foot; Open-toe satin stitch foot; Overedge foot M; Rolled hem foot; Satin stitch foot; Zigzag foot; and Zipper foot E.

Best budget: Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine

Brother

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Why it made the cut: For budget-minded quilters, the Brother XR3774 mechanical sewing machine offers numerous friendly features, including a large table, spring-action quilting foot, and a quilting guide bar.

Specs 

• Weight: 15.87 pounds
• Product dimensions: 15.3 inches long by 8 inches wide by 12 inches high
• Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros 

• Large extension table
• Spring-action quilting foot for free-motion sewing
• 37 built-in stitches
• Automatic needle threader

Cons 

• Not computerized
• Not as many built-in stitches as some machines

Available at an affordable price point, the Brother XR3774 sewing machine offers multiple features that quilters appreciate. The extra-large table facilitates manipulating the bulky fabric of large quilts. Additionally, a well-designed walking foot allows sewists to simultaneously feed multiple layers of fabric through the machine. A transparent plastic quilting foot promotes visibility for the sewer. On top of that, the quilting foot features a spring-action design to raise and lower the foot as it glides over varying layers of fabric. An included quilting guide bar helps quilters achieve evenly spaced rows of stitches in their projects. 

Although this mechanical machine does not feature the high-tech attributes of computerized machines, it does offer numerous convenient features to make sewing tasks easier. Sewists can utilize the 37 built-in stitches for 74 stitch functions, including a 1-step, buttonhole maker with automatic sizing. The automatic needle threader saves time and frustration, and the top drop-in bobbin is jam resistant for trouble-free sewing sessions. Additionally, the machine winds the bobbin automatically. When users are not working on quilting projects, the built-in free arm allows sewing in tight spaces, such as cuffs, sleeves, and trouser legs. 

See all of the functions and features of the XR3774 machine via the bright LED light that illuminates the work area. Shift from one sewing task to another by attaching the eight interchangeable sewing feet that come with the machine, including: Quilting foot; Walking foot; Blind stitch foot; Zipper foot; Zigzag foot; Buttonhole foot; Button sewing foot; and Narrow hem foot.

Things to consider before buying a sewing machine for quilting

Quilting is an ancient, decorative art that dates back to the Middle Ages in Europe and to earlier centuries in the Middle East and Asia. Today, millions of sewists engage in the art of quilting to produce utilitarian bed coverings that also exist as works of art and become family heirlooms for future generations. For quilters, sewing machines with specialized features provide the best tools for their craft. Before selecting a machine for quilting, shoppers might consider the following factors.

Extra-wide work table

Sewing a quilt requires manipulating large swaths of fabric with multiple layers through the sewing machine. For this purpose, the free arm of a machine does not provide sufficient workspace. Therefore, sewers need a detachable work table that may be fitted in place to enlarge the horizontal work surface. Quilters may search for sewing machines that advertise a wide extension table to ensure adequate space for maneuvering the bulky fabric of a quilt.

Large throat area

The throat of a sewing machine is the open space bordered by the upright arm, the horizontal arm, the sewing head, and the bed of the machine. With a longer horizontal arm and a taller vertical arm, the throat area is larger and therefore capable of accommodating the bulky materials of a quilt. Quilting and sewing machines for home use are generally classified as short-arm machines. Within this category, many throats measure only approximately 5-inches long. However, quilters might search for models that feature throats measuring 8- to 9-inches long.

Free motion sewing

For most sewing projects, the metal teeth of the feed dogs emerge through the throat plate of the machine to guide the fabric in a straight line as it feeds through the machine and under the needle for stitching. The teeth of the feed dogs gently grip the fabric to control its movement. However, many quilting projects require free-motion sewing, a technique where the feed dogs are disengaged to allow the sewist to control the movement of the fabric and the direction of the stitching. Quilters create interesting designs with the free-motion technique. Therefore, they search for sewing machines that advertise the drop feed feature, indicating that the feed dogs may be disengaged to allow free-motion sewing.

FAQs

Final thoughts on the best sewing machines for quilting

The Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 receives high marks from reviewers and sewists ranging from beginners to seasoned experts who applaud its durability and versatility. With computerized functioning, it offers a wide array of automatic features that make sewing a pleasurable activity, leading to successful outcomes in quilting, sewing, and crafting projects. For ease of use and versatile features, the Quantum Stylist 9960 is an ideal choice as the best sewing machine for quilters and sewing enthusiasts. 

The post The best sewing machines for quilting in 2023 appeared first on Popular Science.

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Pictures are some of the most personal decorations you can have in your home. They represent memories, hopes, or even just a glimpse into your passions. One way to enhance the deep connection you have with the photos you display is to build the frame yourself.  

DIY picture frames are a simple, straightforward project that any beginner can take on. They’re also an excellent educational endeavor, as they form the foundation of many projects, like the wall-mounted laundry drying rack I made a few months ago. You can make something simple, like the basic frame I describe below, or try out some creative upgrades. Maybe you want to add splines, make the frames out of fancy moulding, or even explore how to do inlays for visual contrast.

I decided to go the basic route because I needed frames for my kids’ 5-by-7-inch school pictures in my office, and I didn’t want to distract from their handsome little faces. I also didn’t want to spend a ton of money, so I made as much of the frame as I could from materials I had kicking around. I scavenged the wood from the rails of an old bed, and the backer is cardboard from one of the many Amazon boxes we receive each week. And the best part is that no one will ever know they’re made from scraps. It’s amazing what a nice coat of paint will hide.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 2 to 3 hours
• Material cost: $5 to $50
• Difficulty: Easy

Materials

• 2 (9-inch-long) pieces of ¾-inch wood
• 2 (7-inch-long) pieces of ¾-inch wood
• Acrylic sheet (or glass)
• Cardboard 
• Staples
• Hanging hardware
• Paint (or another finish)

Tools

• Table saw
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs
• Corner clamps
• Clamps
• Digital angle gauge
• Drill
• Staple gun

How to build DIY picture frames

1. Clean up your reclaimed wood as needed. When working with recycled or reclaimed wood, whether it’s from pallets, old furniture, or a random board you found buried in your shed, you’ll need to clean it up before it touches tools. A shop vac and scrub brush can help remove dirt and debris from the surface. Then take out any hardware like hinges, screws, and nails. Consider using a nail-finding magnet if you regularly work with reclaimed wood—you don’t want to discover a missed nail with your table saw. If the boards are especially rough, you can also sand them down with 80-grit sandpaper.

2. Mill your wood to rough dimensions. Milling wood is a critical skill in woodworking, and PopSci has an entire guide on how to do it. Essentially, milling involves flattening each side of the board with a jointer and planer so the faces and edges form right angles. If you don’t start with flat wood, your corner joints won’t be as strong, and your frame might hang crooked on the wall. Depending on what kind of wood you’re using, you may not have to do much milling. My recycled bed rails were already flat and square, so I didn’t mill or joint them. I just cut them down to rough length on my miter saw and to actual width on my table saw. 

[Related: Tune up your table saw the right way]

At the end of your milling process, you should have two 9-inch-long boards and two 7-inch ones, all ⅝- to ¾-inch wide.

3. Cut the mitered ends on each board. Since this project is a frame for a 5-by-7 picture, with ¼-inch rabbet joints on all sides, the short side of each miter should be 4.5 inches on the smaller boards and 6.5 inches on the longer ones. The length of the longer side of each miter will depend on exactly how wide your boards are.

There are several ways to cut miter joints, including, as you may have guessed, on a miter saw. However, I prefer to use a table saw on smaller boards like this. It feels safer and more accurate. You can use the miter gauge that came with your table saw to make this cut, or you can build a mitering sled.  

• Pro tip: However you decide to cut the pieces, use stop blocks to set the lengths rather than measuring each cut individually, if you can. Stop blocks guarantee that the paired pieces are exactly the same size, which is critical to getting well-fitting miters.

4. Cut the rabbets. A rabbet is a small channel cut along the edge of a piece of wood. In this case, the rabbets are where the glass and picture sit in the frame without falling through the front. You’ll need to add these channels to the back of each board along the inside edge, so they all face inward when assembled.

Like many woodworking tasks, there are several techniques for cutting rabbets. My preferred method for narrow rabbets like these is on the table saw, using a single blade instead of a dado stack. Making two passes with a single blade is faster than changing over my saw to take the dado. 

Lay a board down flat next to the blade, and set its height to about half the thickness of the wood. In my case, this was about ⅜-inch tall. Then set your fence so the blade will cut the inside portion of the rabbet. Make your cut on all four frame pieces.

Once all four are cut, move your fence to the right an eighth of an inch, then cut again, removing more wood and widening the rabbet. If you still need to, keep moving the fence over until you’ve removed all of the material for the rabbet. 

• Warning: Even though the blade won’t stick out the top of the wood, still use a push stick or push block. You never know when a board might break, jump, or kick back, leaving your hands behind to fall on the blade.  

5. Glue the frames together. The easiest way to glue up miters is with specialized clamps. I used corner clamps for this project, which are designed for 90-degree glue-ups. You can also use a strap clamp, which is going to be my next shop upgrade. But have no fear if you don’t have specialized clamps for corners yet—painter’s tape works in a pinch.  

A more detailed explanation of how to use painter’s tape this way is available in an article I wrote about building a small wedding card box. The gist, however, is that you start by laying all four pieces of the frame down flat, end to end, with the outer points of the miters touching. Then connect them with a 2- to 3-inch piece of painter’s tape, pulling the tape as tight as you can. This will create a long train of frame pieces. Flip the whole unit onto its back, so the tape is down and the valleys of the miters are facing up. Spread a thin layer of glue into those valleys, then fold the miters together. The last corner won’t be secure, so stretch a piece of tape over it to hold it in place, then adjust everything as needed to make sure it’s flat and square. 

6. Cut the acrylic to size. Cutting acrylic is as easy as cutting a thin sheet of plywood on the table saw. You don’t need a special blade or anything. Size the acrylic to fit inside the rabbet within the frame. I cut mine about a sixteenth of an inch small so it slips in and out easily.  

There are a few tips that will make this step a bit easier:

• Leave the protective plastic on the acrylic while cutting. This will keep it from getting scratched by any dust or debris on your saw. 
• Make sure the acrylic can’t slide beneath the fence. If there is a large enough gap below the fence, clamp a flat, well-milled board to it, with one edge flush to the tabletop.
• Lightly sand the edges of the acrylic when you’re done. The friction of the saw blade melts the plastic, so you might be left with uneven edges. Those burrs come off no problem with 120-grit paper.

7. Sand the picture frames smooth. Because photo frames aren’t a high-contact item, and I was planning to paint them anyway, I didn’t do much sanding for this project. I only did a single pass with my orbital sander using 120-grit paper. This cleaned up any glue squeeze-out and small imperfections at the corners, while preparing the wood nicely for paint.

9. Cut your frame backer. There are all kinds of products you can use for this, but in the spirit of recycling, I used a piece of cardboard that I cut to size, using the acrylic as a template. It doesn’t really matter what you use, because no one ever looks at the back of a picture frame.  

10. Install hanging hardware. This is another decision that comes down to personal preference. I like to use sawtooth hangers because they’re pretty forgiving of a little imprecision in the hanging process. Picture frame wire is another easy method. Whatever you use, however, pre-drill the holes for any screws. You don’t want the frame to crack after you’re this far into the process.

11. Put it all together. Place the acrylic first, then the picture, then the backer piece. The final step is to secure that backer so that everything doesn’t fall out when you pick it up. There’s actually a specialized tool for this called a point driver, and you might want to pick one up if you plan on making a lot of picture frames. If, like me, you’re one of the many woodworkers who don’t have one, just use a staple gun.  

The post Simple DIY picture frames that will elevate your home decor appeared first on Popular Science.

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Sometimes being a woodworker is a lot like being a genie. The other day, my wife was using a curved wooden stirring spatula to make cheese sauce for mac ’n’ cheese. “I wish I had one of these, but way longer,” she said to me. So I went downstairs, found a scrap of maple about the size she wanted, and made her a bigger one. Though I’d never made a kitchen utensil before, it took about two hours, and was far easier than I had anticipated.

No matter your skill level, making a wooden spatula, spoon, or some other kind of utensil offers lots of options for creativity with a wide range of shapes and styles. You can copy something you already have like I did, find a template online to use as a base, or create a style that is completely new. Whether you’re looking for a relatively quick present or trying to enhance your kitchen arsenal, whatever you craft is sure to be a crowd pleaser.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 1 to 2 hours
• Material cost: $5 to $10
• Difficulty: Easy

Tools

• Band saw
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs (60-, 80-, 120-, 150-, and 220-grit)
• (Optional) tabletop belt and disc sander
• (Optional) spoon gouge
• (Optional) chisels

Materials

• 1 (1-foot) 1-by-2-inch maple board (or any hardwood board about the size of your soon-to-be spoon)
• Cutting board conditioner
• Painter’s tape

How to make a wooden spoon, or any other utensil

1. Draw your design on the wood. Because I made a larger version of an existing utensil, I freehanded the design with the original as a reference. If you purchased a template, cut it out and trace it onto your board.

Remember that a template has two profiles. There’s the main shape that you’d see when you put the utensil down flat, but there’s also the narrow edge profile. You’ll need to draw both of these.

• Pro tip: I always prefer drawing on the wood rather than taping a template to the board. This helps me avoid losing my design partway through if the paper falls off or gets shredded while I’m cutting.  

2. Cut out the rough shape on the band saw. Start cutting the largest profile, as though the utensil is lying flat. Try to get the general shape in one or two large cuts, rather than many small ones—this will make the second profile easier to trim.

[Related: The surprising woodworking tools you already have around the house]

3. Tape the cutoff pieces back onto the rough-cut block. This may seem counterproductive, but putting these edge pieces back in place stabilizes the board so you can cut out the second profile more safely and accurately. You may need to redraw sections of the edge profile over the tape, but you’ll thank yourself later.

4. Refine the shape. Once you have the general shape, use your band saw to trim the more intricate and detailed areas. You can also use chisels or hand saws for this, depending on your comfort, the cuts required, and your access to tools. Notch out the tighter angles and corners, start to shape the handle, and form whatever curves you can. If you have a spoon gouge (I do not), scoop out the spoon head as needed.  

Any material you remove now is material you won’t have to sand off later. If you’re using only an orbital sander, like I did, get as close as you can, because the orbital sander is slow. A belt sander removes more material faster, so if you have access to one of those, you can be a bit less precise with this step.

• Warning: Be careful while making these more intricate cuts, both for your physical safety and to avoid removing too much material. Better to spend 10 extra minutes sanding than to accidentally cut your handle (or fingertip) off. 

5. Sand until you can’t feel your hands, then sand some more. Sanding will be by far the longest and hardest part of this project. Rather than simply smoothing the wood like when you’re building a cutting board or piece of furniture, you’ll be using sanding to actually finish shaping the utensil. I sanded my entire spoon using just an orbital sander and my quickly-cramping hands, so it’s absolutely doable if that’s all you have. However, manual sanding will take a long time, and—as I said above—a belt sander will definitely speed up the process.  

Start with 60-grit paper to maximize material removal. Don’t be afraid to change sanding discs regularly when they start to dull. With this grit, your goal will be to remove all of the saw and chisel marks and refine the shape to near-finished dimensions. 

Most of my time was spent working on the handle, trying to find a comfortable shape and size. I actually went back to the bandsaw to remove more material several times during the sanding process, just to speed it along.  

• Warning: Don’t use a powered sander for this. If you do, you might take off too much material, and you’ll have the same roughness the next time your spoon gets wet. 

The post Make these DIY wooden kitchen utensils for your favorite cook appeared first on Popular Science.

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As much fun as eating cornmeal and screaming endlessly is, chickens can get bored too. Don’t laugh: bored chickens can cause more havoc than you might think. “They can start to develop abnormal behavior such as feather-pecking other birds excessively,” says Dana Campbell, an animal behavior scientist at Australia’s Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organization. You don’t want that in your coop.

Thankfully, providing enrichment for chickens is surprisingly easy, and can be as simple as adding a rustic wooden swing to their stagnant environment. This kind of structural enrichment has the added benefit of being incredibly entertaining to watch; you have not lived until you’ve seen a chicken turn a coop into a playground as it swings back and forth, clucking curiously. Plus, you can make one from materials you probably already have.

Stats

• Time: 10 to 30 minutes
• Material cost: $7 to $30
• Difficulty: Easy

Tools

• Drill
• Level
• (Optional) yarn needle
• (Optional) hand saw

Materials

• Rope
• Branches
• (Optional) wooden beads 
• (Optional) sandpaper 
• (Optional) eye hooks

2. Drill holes in the sticks. Where you put these holes also depends on how big your chickens are, but I made swings for several different breeds and drilled holes about an inch and a half from either end of each branch. You’ll want your drill bit to be slightly larger than your rope so it can slide through. I used a 9/32-inch bit for my swings.

3. (Optional) Sand the branches. If there are any particularly splintery or uneven areas of your branches, you can sand them down so the chickens can get a better grip with their talons. In the wild, chickens often roost in trees, so there’s no need to sand the branches to be totally even. It might actually be more enriching to err on the side of natural instead of using perfectly smooth sticks.

5. (Optional) Add some beads. After you cut the rope, but before you attach it to the branch, you can slide some wooden beads on to give your chickens some extra enrichment—your birds may spin the beads or find them visually appealing. Even if you don’t have the most curious chickens, these swing accessories will also spice up your coop decor. Once the beads are on, tie a knot below them.

6. Thread the rope through the drilled holes. This is where a yarn needle can be particularly helpful, especially if you’re using a type of rope that has a tendency to bunch up, like jute. When the rope’s through the holes, tie a double knot securely at the base of one of the holes. Use a level to make sure the branch is even, then tie a knot underneath the other hole.

7. Hang the swing. I tied the top of my rope to the rafters in the coop, wrapping it multiple times and tying it tight with several knots. Since chickens don’t weigh much, this is plenty secure. But if you want extra strength, drill holes into a beam inside your coop, screw in a couple metal eye hooks, and tightly tie the rope to the hooks. Make sure the hooks are the same distance apart as the two holes in the branch. 

8. Let your birds get to swinging. It may take time for your chickens to try out their new swing, so don’t worry if your feathery friends don’t immediately appreciate your work. You can help them get used to it by hanging the swing closer to the ground at first and gradually moving it up as they get more comfortable. Gently placing your birds on the swing and rewarding them with tasty mealworm treats can help them adjust as well. And while you can certainly teach an old bird new tricks, your best chance of raising avid swingers is to introduce the birds to a swing when they’re young. This project can always be downsized from branches to twigs to get juveniles well on their way to being swinging chicken prodigies.

The post Why you should build a swing for your chickens appeared first on Popular Science.

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A Lazy Susan, or turntable, can be a stylish and functional addition to your dining room or kitchen. Just imagine sitting down to a hearty holiday meal where everyone can access every dish without uncomfortable reaching or asking someone else to set down their fork and pass the potatoes. And if you build one yourself, you’ll have a conversation-starting centerpiece ready for every gathering

At its core, a Lazy Susan is just a circular cutting board on top of a smaller circular cutting board with turntable hardware sandwiched in between. The end result looks impressive, but don’t be intimidated—it’s a project anyone with moderate woodworking skill can handle. I built mine 18 inches in diameter from maple, with walnut accents, but there are numerous ways to customize yours. Maybe you want to use different types of wood, flip the boards so the edge or end grain is visible, or even burn designs into your piece. Whatever your personal aesthetic, you can find a way to make a Lazy Susan that feels unique to you or to the person you’re making it for.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 6 to 8 hours
• Material cost: $40 to $100
• Difficulty: Moderate

Tools

• Miter saw (or circular saw)
• Table saw
• Router
• Pattern router bit, aka a trim router bit
• Orbital sander (or a belt sander, or a hand plane)
• Sanding discs (60-, 80-, 120-, 150-, and 220-grit)
• Clamps
• Drill
• ¾-inch Forstner bit
• Jigsaw
• Sanding sponges
• Level
• Speed square
• (Optional) circle-cutting router jig
• (Optional) tack cloth
• (Optional) compressed air

Materials

• 1 (9-foot) 6-by-1-inch maple board (or any hardwood board that’s at least ¾-inch thick—for stability)
• 1 low-profile Lazy Susan hardware
• Cutting board conditioner
• 1 bag of ¼-inch wood screws (or whatever your Lazy Susan hardware requires)

How to build a DIY Lazy Susan

1. Cut the boards for the large and small Lazy Susan discs. For my 18- and 10-inch-diameter circles, I cut my maple board into four 19-inch lengths for the top and three 11-inch lengths for the bottom. Next, joint (or square) the boards so the two edges are parallel with one another and perpendicular to one face of the board. If you don’t own a jointer, you can do this on a table saw. 

We have a detailed guide on how to joint wood without a jointer, but I can summarize the basics. First, place a level alongside your table saw’s fence and press the more concave edge of the board against the level. Then adjust the saw fence so the blade will take a sliver off the other edge of the board, and push the board and level together to make the cut. This will create a straight edge that is perpendicular to the board’s bottom face. Next, flip the board around, keeping the same face down, and trim the other edge using the table saw fence like normal (without the level). Do this with all of the boards for the panels. 

2. Glue the longer lengths to form the top panel. Spread glue over the edges of each piece of wood and clamp them together in a roughly square shape, using a pair of clamps beneath the form. Then place two more clamps on top, about a third of the way in from each end, and tighten those. Having clamps on the top and bottom of will help keep the boards from twisting as the glue dries. If you want, you can add clamping cauls to ensure an even flatter glue-up.

Tighten the clamps until glue squeezes out of all the seams. If no glue comes out, you didn’t use enough. Wipe away as much of the glue squeeze-out as you can with a damp paper towel while the glue is still wet. This will make life easier when you sand the board later.

• Pro tip: You can put thin pieces of a different kind of wood between the lengths to create a decorative, striped look. My Lazy Susan, as mentioned above, is made from light-colored maple with dark walnut accent stripes.

5. Draw your circles. It’s tempting to use the string method to draw a circle: drive a nail into the middle of the board, tie a piece of string around it, and tie a pencil to the string one radius away from the nail. And honestly, this is what I did first. Unfortunately the string flexed and the pencil tilted slightly as I drew my circle. Not much, but enough that my “circle” was about a quarter-inch shorter along one diameter then another. 

A better strategy is to use a long piece of flat wood instead of string. After sticking a nail roughly into the center of each board (make sure you don’t nail into the face you want to be the top of your Lazy Susan), drill a nail-sized hole at one end of a thin piece of scrap, then drill two more holes large enough for a pencil to poke through at the radiuses of the two circles (5 and 9 inches away from the center nail for me).

When the template is ready, slip the scrap over the nail in the bigger board and methodically spin that wood around to trace the bigger circle. Repeat this with the smaller board. The wood won’t flex or allow the pencil to move nearly as much as string, and you should end up with two near-perfect discs.

And, of course, if you have your own foolproof circle-sketching method, use that.

6. Cut out your circles. There are several ways to do this. The easiest is with a circle-cutting jig and a plunge router. If you have access to these, you can actually skip Step 5. But I don’t have either, so I used a jigsaw, a palm router, and an orbital sander. 

Start by cutting out one of the circles with the jigsaw, staying to the outside of the line. Once you’re done with the cut, trim to the line with the palm router and a straight-cut bit. Take your time with this so you don’t slip and cut into the circle. Finally, clean up all the edges with your random orbital sander and 60-grit sandpaper. If you don’t have a router, you can use the orbital sander to get to the line, but it may take longer to remove enough material.

• Note: You may have noticed the bevel along the bottom of my top panel. Beveled edges look awesome, and I put them on all of my cutting boards, but beveling a circle seemed like a lot of work and I had no intention of doing so. Then my router caught a knot and tore a big chunk out of the top panel. To fix the chunk, I beveled the bottom, using my orbital sander with 60-grit sandpaper to create an approximately 45-degree bevel around the whole thing. It took a long time, and I don’t recommend it. But it looks great. That said, I probably won’t add a bevel to my next turntable unless I have to.

7. Pre-drill holes for the turntable hardware. The best drill bit to use for this step is one that’s smaller than the shaft of the screws included with your turntable hardware. Before you drill, center the turning hardware on the correct side of the board (the bottom of the top board and the top of the bottom one). 

Line up each of the screw holes in the turning hardware on those diameter lines. If there is a line visible in the middle of each hole, you’re centered. Mark the position of each of the pilot holes and drill them out.

• Note: This method will only work if there are four screw holes that form a square. Any other configuration and you’ll need to center the hardware differently.

8. Drill an access hole in the bottom board. In order to actually attach the turning hardware, you’ll connect it first to the bottom board, then to the top. However, there’s not enough room between them to use a screwdriver or drill, so you’ll need to bore an access hole.

To find the right spot, lay the turning hardware in place on the bottom board. Then spin the piece of the turning hardware that attaches to the top board so the empty screw hole is over wood, not metal. Mark that position, then drill a ¾-inch hole through the bottom board. This will serve as an access hole so you can fasten the hardware to the top board. 

(Optional) 9. Route insets for the turning hardware. This isn’t strictly necessary, but will make it easier to install the hardware. While you’re marking for pilot holes, trace the outline of the hardware. Then, using a router and a straight cutting bit, route an inset the same depth as the thickness of the metal turning hardware. This inset will hold the hardware in place when you’re trying to install it, which will be a big help.

10. Sand both circles smooth. Sanding is the key to great-looking woodworking. At this point in the project, you’ve already sanded everything flat with 60-grit paper. Now use your orbital sander to move though the remaining grits: 80, 120, 150, and finally 220. I rarely see the point in going higher than 220-grit, and this project is no different. Higher grits can close the pores of the wood, making it harder for the oil finish to soak in, and 220-grit feels extremely smooth to the touch. There’s a diminishing return on quality above 220 that doesn’t seem worth the time. 

The only thing to be careful of is not to ruin the curve of the boards, which can be easy to do with an orbital sander. To avoid that, I sanded the edges by hand with sanding sponges.  

Once you’ve sanded to 220, you’ll need to raise the grain of the wood and sand again. When wood gets wet, the fibers absorb moisture and swell, creating a rough texture on even the best-sanded projects. To combat this, use a spray bottle to wet the wood after sanding with the 220-grit paper, let it dry, and lightly hand-sand with 220 again. The smooth texture will remain.

11. Apply finish to the top and bottom boards. I used two coats of butcher block conditioner, which is a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax that is easy to apply and food-safe. I used Howard’s because that’s available at my local hardware store, but any brand should be fine. 

Simply pour some of the oil onto the board and spread it around with either a lint-free rag or a plastic spreading tool until the wood is completely saturated (old driver’s licenses and credit cards work great for this). Allow the finish to soak in according to the manufacturer’s recommended timing, and then wipe off any excess or apply a second coat if the wood soaked it all in.

If you need something more permanent and durable, consider using wood bowl finish. 

12. Install the turning hardware. The very last step is to attach the turning hardware. This is easy, but the order matters. 

Screw the turning hardware to the bottom board first, using the pre-drilled pilot holes from Step 7. Then, flip the whole unit upside down and position the turning hardware on the top board. This is where the ¾-inch access hole you drilled in Step 8 comes into play. You should be able to turn that bottom board until the large hole is over one of the screw holes for the top board. Using a screwdriver or drill, drive in the first screw, then turn the bottom board to get to the next screw location.

The post No need to pass the potatoes—spin them with this DIY Lazy Susan appeared first on Popular Science.

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When you have a lot of clothes that don’t fare particularly well in the dryer, it can be hard to figure out where to hang your freshly washed bathing suits, gym clothes, delicate shirts, and of course, unmentionables. My family has been draping those damp garments from the wire shelf above the washer, but we’re sick of doing that. It’s ugly, and it doesn’t work all that well—the clothes fall into a pile or slip behind the machines half the time.

At the time of publication, the laundry hanger has been up for about a month, and it’s already significantly improved both the look and function of our laundry room.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 4 to 6 hours
• Cost: $50 to $75
• Difficulty: moderate

Tools

• Jointer
• Planer
• Table saw
• Crosscut sled (or miter saw)
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs (60-, 80-, 120-, 150-, and 220-grit)
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Corner clamps
• Clamps
• Painter’s tape
• Router
• Roundover bit
• Drill
• Drill press
• ⅜-inch drill bit
• Countersink bit
• Brad nailer
• Level
• Stud finder
• Digital angle gauge
• Wire cutters
• Flush cut saw

Materials

• 1 (9-foot-long) 1-by-6-inch poplar board
• ¼-inch poplar plywood
• 1-inch brad nails
• Wood glue
• Hinges
• Super glue
• Magnets
• 3 ⅜-inch dowels
• Spray paint
• Chain
• Hooks
• Drywall anchors

How to build a wall-mounted drying rack

1. Mill the lumber to rough dimensions. This is one of those projects where the better you mill your lumber, the better results you’ll get. Start by cutting your board down to rough length, about 1 inch longer than the final dimensions of each piece. You may be able to optimize your choice of wood differently, but I reached this point with one 29-inch board for the long sides of the outside frame, one 27-inch board for all sides of the inside frame, one 23-inch board for the remaining pieces of the outside frame, and a 25-inch board for the upper shelf.

If you aren’t sure of the next steps, I put together a full, detailed guide on how to properly mill and joint wood. The basics, though, are to joint one face and edge, plane the opposite face, and then cut the pieces down to their final width on your table saw. When you’re done, you should have nine perfectly milled boards: 

• 2 (23-by-1.5-inch) boards for the top and bottom of the outside frame
• 2 (29-by-1.5-inch) boards for the left and right sides of the outside frame
• 2 (20-by-1-inch) boards for the top and bottom of the inside frame
• 2 (27-by-1-inch) boards for the left and right sides of the inside frame
• 1 (25-by-4-inch) board for the top shelf

2. Cut the miters. As part of this step, you’ll also trim the boards down to their final lengths. There are several ways to cut the 45-degree angles, and one of the most common is with a miter saw. Simply adjust the angle of your tool to 45 degrees, and trim the ends of each board to length. I, however, prefer to use my table saw and a crosscut sled, with the blade set to 45 degrees. For this to work, you’ll either need to set your blade to 45 degrees and cut a new blade channel in your existing crosscut sled, or build a second sled specifically for miters, which is what I did.

Before you start cutting, use a digital angle gauge to confirm that your blade is set to 45 degrees. It may not seem like much, but 44.8 degrees can leave some pretty big gaps between pieces, even if you do manage to force your frames square. 

• Pro tip: Glue the outside frame together before cutting the miters for the inside frame. This will let you double-check the interior dimensions. In my case, I forgot to account for the wood I’d removed in milling, so the gap between the two frames would have been about a quarter-inch larger than I’d planned if I’d cut all the miters at the same time.  

3. Drill dowel holes in the inner frame. The dowels you’ll hang your clothes on attach to the inner frame. To keep the frame square and ensure the dowels stay parallel, the holes in both side pieces need to be perfectly aligned. The easiest way to do this is to drill them at the same time.

Use painter’s tape to secure the two long side pieces of the inner frame together, with the outside edge of each piece pressing against each other and the shortest edge of each board facing out. Then measure the spacing of the dowels. I spread mine 4 inches apart, and 3 inches from each end of the board. This spacing seems to work well for most clothes we dry.

[Related: How to wash your clothes without wearing them out]

Once the boards are taped and the hole locations marked, use a ⅜-inch bit to drill through both boards. The best tool for this is a drill press. Put one of the short edges down on the press table, with the other hole facing up to drill out the holes. If you don’t have a drill press, you can use a regular drill, but make sure you are drilling straight through the boards, not at an angle. You can make a simple jig to help the alignment.

4. Glue up the frames. The easiest way I’ve found to do this is to use corner clamps. Spread a thin layer of glue onto each mitered end, then clamp the two pieces together. Adjust the wood inside the clamp until the outer corners are flush and the seam is tight. This method also makes it easier to install the dowels into the inner frame before gluing it up.

If you don’t have corner clamps, you can use painter’s tape. Lay out the pieces of each frame with the outer edges facing up and the connecting ends touching in a long line. Then stretch a 2-to-3-inch piece of painter’s tape across each joint. Flip all four boards over at the same time so the outer edges are facing down and the open miter joints face up. Spread glue inside each miter joint.

• Pro tip: Before gluing, put painter’s tape along the inside corner of each board, right next to the angle of the miter. This will catch the glue that squeezes out when the two boards come together, making sanding and cleanup faster and easier. 

5. Install the dowels in the inner frame. If you haven’t already, cut and install the dowels to fit the inner frame. I cut mine about an inch longer than they needed to be, so they stick out the sides half an inch. Smear some glue along each end of the dowels, and push them through the holes.

Clean up any glue squeeze-out with a damp paper towel. 

Again, for stability, drive a single brad nail through the back of the frame and into the dowel.  

Once the dowels are secure and the glue is dry, use a flush-cut saw to trim all the dowels even with the outer edge of the frame.  

6. Install top and bottom nailer strips on the outer frame. Right now, there’s no way to actually secure the frame to the wall. To solve this problem, install a nailer strip at the top and bottom of the outer frame.  

Cut two strips of ¼-inch plywood that are the same length as the outer frame is wide. Mine were 3 inches wide and 22 inches long. Glue and brad nail these strips to the back of the outer frame, flush with the top and bottom. There should be about 2 inches of nailer strip visible inside the frame.

(Optional) 7. Route any decorative trim elements. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with leaving your frames square, with right angles everywhere. However, if you would like to get away from the blocky look, now is the time to add some decorative elements. I chose to use a router with a roundover bit on the inside edge of the outer frame. This softened the profile a bit and gave the inner frame a nice, gradual inward slope. 

(Optional) 8. Install the shelf on the outer frame. If you want a shelf on top of your laundry hanger, install that now. Glue and brad nail the shelf to the top of the frame. Use clamps to secure it until the glue dries. 

9. Sand everything smooth. Time to pay the sandman. Sanding is the difference between a professional-looking product and one marred by saw marks and blemishes. Trust me, you’ll never unsee them. Use an orbital sander for any flat surfaces and hand-sand the decorative trim as needed. Start with 120-grit paper, and then move to 150- and 220-grit to finish.

Don’t forget to sand the dowels.  

10. Drill holes for the hinges. I’m not going to lie—I struggle with hinges. They always wind up slightly out of alignment, so if anyone has a foolproof way they do it, please let me know.

[Related: Build your own door and ascend to a higher level of DIY]

Absent that pro tip, first tape the hinges into position on the bottom of the inner frame. Then drill pilot holes for each hinge through the tape, so you can see where the hinge aligns into one frame.

Then position the frame inside the outer frame. Trace the edges and front of each hinge onto the outer frame, remove the hinge from the inner frame, lay it in place on the outer frame, and drill the pilot holes there.  

This way is fairly accurate, and I’ll keep doing it that way until I find a better method.  

13. Hang the rack on your wall. Install the outer frame first. Find and mark the studs in your wall and position the frame against them. Use a pencil to lightly mark where they go on the nailer strips, and then drill screw holes with a countersink bit. Next, screw the outer frame to the wall. If you only have one stud that will fall behind the frame, use a drywall anchor and one stud. Make sure you hit one stud, even if that means the rack has to go in a less-than-ideal location.  

Once the outer frame is up, install the inner one. Ideally, this is a two-person job. First, install the hinges into the bottom of the inner frame. Then, one person should hold the inner frame on the bottom lip of the outer frame so the hinges line up with the pre-drilled holes. The second person should screw the hinges into place.

If your inner frame is slightly out of alignment, loosen the screws on one hinge and shim it with thin pieces of scrap wood. Then tighten the hinge back down onto the shims. This will push the top of the inner frame away from the hinge that you shimmed; if you shim the left hinge, the frame will lean to the right.

You can install the inner frame before hanging the outer frame, but I thought it would be harder to attach it to the wall around the dowels than to install the hinges later. However, if you have to install this alone, it will likely be easier to install the inner frame before hanging.  

14. Cut and attach the chain. Finally, decide how far you want the laundry hanger to fold out into the room. Cut your chain with wire cutters to match that. The chain should run from the inside upper corner of the outer frame to the inside upper corner of the inner frame. Screw hooks into the appropriate locations, making sure that neither the hooks nor chains interfere with opening or closing the frame. If there’s no location where the hooks don’t get in the way, you can use very small screws instead.

Now it’s just time to wash some laundry, hang a few pieces up, and watch them dry. Well, maybe not watch. Go away and build something else while they dry. But then come back later and enjoy the fact that your bathing suit is, in fact, dry.

The post Build a simple wall-mounted laundry rack to dry your delicates in style appeared first on Popular Science.

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Sometimes, the best gifts are the ones you craft from the heart. Make gifts your friends and family will appreciate—and save some cash while you’re at it—with these early Black Friday 3D printer deals on Amazon. Even if you’re not a veteran maker, you can currently score a solid deal on a printer that fits your skillset or your ambitions to make your own doodads.

ANYCUBIC

SEE IT

Bring the makerspace into the comfort of your own home with this ANYCUBIC Kobra Go, on sale for $199.99, 38% off its $319.99 list price. One-touch leveling and printing make it easy to operate and great for those entering the world of 3D printing. The steel printing platform resists drops and abrasions while allowing you to remove your projects easily by simply bending the steel. Your project will be done way before the New Year thanks to this 3D printer’s 60-100 millimeters per second print speed. And, you can print a soccer ball-sized project thanks to the printer’s high print volume.

If you want to get your filament collection started, check out this filament pack, which boasts 22 colors for less than $10. If you’re looking for something a bit more hands-on (literally), this SCRIB3D 3D printer pen is on sale for $39.99, its lowest price in 30 days.

Here are more 3D printers on sale right now on Amazon:

• ANYCUBIC Vyper 3D Printer $343.99 (Was $429.99)
• Official Creality Ender 3 3D Printer $189 (Was $249.99)
• WEEDO TINA2 Mini 3D Printer $149 (Was $199)
• ELEGOO 3D Printer $169.99 (Was $239.99)

The post Create something new before Black Friday with these 3D printer deals on Amazon appeared first on Popular Science.

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There are few pieces of computer history more iconic and, at one time, ubiquitous as the Commodore 64. Produced between 1982 and 1994, the C64 still holds the Guinness World Record for all-time bestselling desktop computer—but it’s probably pretty safe to say that of the roughly 12.5 million units sold, only two of them were subsequently programmed to become an adorable, 8-bit “accordion.”

[Related: How technology can help you learn a musical instrument.]

Readers, please behold the “Commodordion,” a ridiculous, adorable musical contraption built using two C64 keyboards, custom software and wiring, as well as a bellows painstakingly constructed from taped-together floppy disks. First unveiled in late October by Linus Åkesson, a Swedish software engineer, YouTuber, and, as his video showcases, accomplished musician, the Commodordion looks predictably as difficult to play as the portmanteau is to pronounce. Åkesson, however, makes the whole thing look relatively simple, demonstrating his wonderful setup through an extremely impressive rendition of Scott Joplin‘s “Maple Town Rag” from 1899.

[Related: Best speakers for music of 2022.]

As Åkesson explains in his 11-minute video, the Commodordion intentionally builds off of his previous projects, the Sixtyforgan and Qwertuoso, and employs a custom-made mixer circuit board combining audio signals from both C64 keyboard rigs. The airflow through a hole in the device’s floppy disk bellows feeds into a mounted microphone, which then translates the noise into an audio envelope and the ensuing sound is emitted through an external speaker. The music software itself was also designed by Åkesson using a Commodore Datasette emulator board.

Unfortunately, as Åkesson and Ars Technica‘s writeup both note, C64 keyboards weren’t exactly designed to be held, much less typed upon vertically. As such, the whole contraption is pretty ergonomically rough on a player’s wrists, hands, and arms. “This rather undermines the potential for the Commodordion as a viable musical instrument,” Åkesson writes on his website, making it unlikely we’ll ever participate in a Commodordian polka party.

The post This is what polka music sounds like on an accordion of two Commodore 64 computers appeared first on Popular Science.

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Pretty much everybody has shelves in their home. But not everybody has shelves that make their friends stop, step back, and say, “Now, wait one minute. How on Earth are those things attached to the wall?”

Though they may seem like magic, so-called floating shelves are a straightforward woodworking project—the trick is hiding the hanging brackets inside the wood. There are numerous ways to make floating shelves, but the one I tackled in my house features a piece of 2-by-12 construction lumber and some dowels.

No part of the build is particularly complicated, but this project does have some steps that require precision. Accuracy here is important for strength, but also helps hide the wall-mounting method. Observant guests might be able to see the seam in the shelf that spoils the illusion, but it’s pretty well concealed.  

So the next time you need shelves, consider trying to make them float. Here’s the spell.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 2 to 4 hours
• Cost: $50 to $80
• Difficulty: Moderate

Tools

• Miter saw
• Table saw
• Jointer
• Planer
• Hand plane
• Drill
• ¾-inch auger bit
• 5/16-inch drill bit
• ¾-inch Forstner bit
• Painter’s tape
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs (60-, 80-, 120-, 150-, and 220-grit)
• Level
• Speed square
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Center Finder marking gauge
• Stud finder

Materials

• 1 (8-foot) 2-by-12-inch board (adjust for the width and length of shelf you need)
• 2 (48-inch) ¾-inch dowels
• Wood glue
• 6-inch-long ⅜-inch lag bolts (one for every spot your shelf crosses a stud)
• 1 (¾-inch) wood screw per shelf
• Wood stain
• Staining pad
• Spray-on polyurethane

First, flatten one face. If you have access to a large enough jointer, you can use that. If you don’t, you’ll need to use a flattening sled on your planer or grab a hand plane to flatten one side. I used a hand plane because the board I bought was already pretty close to flat and it was a good opportunity to practice. 

Once one side is flat, joint one edge, either on your jointer or using a jointer sled on your table saw. From there, run the board through your planer to flatten the second face, and trim the remaining rough edge to width on your table saw. Finally, cut the two ends to length on your miter saw.  

The final dimensions of each of my shelves was 10.5 inches deep, 4 feet long, and about 1 ⅜ inches thick.

2. Measure where the studs will fall on the back of each shelf. This step will save you headaches later. Locate the studs in the wall with a stud-finder (or whatever method you prefer). Then figure out where exactly you want each shelf and mark the location of the intersecting studs on the back of each board. Knowing where the studs are will help in two ways. First, it’ll be easier to pre-drill holes for your lag bolts later. Second, when you’re drilling the holes for the support dowels in Step 3, you can space them out so they won’t interfere with the bolts.  

While marking for the studs, use a center line marker to draw a line along the back of each shelf. You’ll use this as a reference for the dowel and lag bolt holes later on.

4. Drill the dowel holes. The most important thing when drilling these holes is to keep them straight and level. I recommend building a jig to keep the drill bit perpendicular to the back of each board. That said, I did not build a jig. Instead, I set my speed square on the top of the shelf directly above where I wanted the hole, overhanging the back by about 3 inches. Then I used my combination square to set it perpendicular to the board. The speed square served as a visual reference to keep the auger bit straight. It worked, but I feel like there was too much room for error. If I ever make these again, I’ll build a jig.  

Drill the holes about three quarters of the way through the board. On my shelves, that meant about 8 inches. If your bit won’t reach that full depth, you’ll have an opportunity to deepen the holes later.

(Optional) 5. Shape the edges of your boards. If you want to shape the edges of your shelves, now is the time to do it. A simple option is to cut a bevel on the bottom of each shelf with your table saw, which is what I did. I chose this because the bevel gives the illusion that the shelves are thinner than they really are.

• Pro tip: Scribble lightly with a pencil all over the top and bottom faces of your boards before sanding. As you sand, the pencil marks will disappear. This will help you see where you have and haven’t sanded, which can be easy to lose track of on large projects like this.

(Optional) 8. Deepen your dowel holes. If you need to deepen the dowel holes from Step 4, now is the time. The existing hole should keep the drill bit straight now, so you won’t need to worry about any kind of guide or jig. 

• Caution: Be careful not to drill out through the front of the shelf. You can put a piece of painter’s tape on your drill bit to give yourself a visual reminder of the proper depth.

9. Drill pilot holes. If you’re confident in your measurements from Step 2, you can drill pilot holes for your lag bolts into each hanger board now. Otherwise, you can wait until you actually install the shelves. I used a 5/16-inch bit for the pilot holes, and a ¾-inch Forstner bit to countersink space for the bolt heads.

Also drill a small pilot hole for a single wood screw with a 5/32-inch drill bit in the bottom of each shelf board, directly into one of the middle dowel holes. 

• Caution: I do not recommend cutting wood this small on a miter saw. Kickback from cutting small stock with my miter saw is the only time I’ve needed stitches from woodworking, so I avoid doing it now.

11. Sand the dowels to fit. In a perfect world, all ¾-inch dowels would be the same size and you wouldn’t need to sand them down. We do not live in a perfect world. One of mine slid easily into the ¾-inch holes. The other didn’t fit at all.

If your dowels don’t slide into the hole, you’ll need to make them fit. If you have access to a lathe or a drill with a chuck big enough to hold your dowels, this is easy. Simply attach the dowel to the tool, spin it up, and rub sandpaper against the dowel as it turns. Don’t overdo it—test-fit regularly until the dowel slides in without much force, but holds snuggly in place with friction.

Otherwise, sand them down by hand with 60- or 80-grit sandpaper until they fit. I’ll warn you—this is the worst woodworking task I’ve ever undertaken. And the numerous blisters on both my hands recommend that you wear gloves while you do so. Or better yet, have the foresight to find dowels that already fit. 

• Pro tip: Now that I’m older and wiser, I’d recommend going to the hardware store with a scrap board you’ve drilled a ¾-inch hole in. Test-fit the dowels to find ones that slide into the hole as they are. This will save you a ton of time.

12. Glue the dowels into each hanging board. Once the dowels are the right size, glue them in place. Have rags or paper towels on hand because this is messy. Smear a thin layer of wood glue on the bottom 2 inches of a dowel, add a few drops of glue into the hole in the hanging board, and push the dowel in from the front (the face that will touch the shelf board) until it’s flush with the back of the hanging board (the face that will touch the wall). Immediately wipe all of the glue away. Any glue on the shelf or dowels will interfere with the fit of the shelf board.  

• Pro tip: I’ll admit, I didn’t come up with this tip—that honor goes to my wife. Slide the shelf board part-way onto the dowels while they’re drying to help hold them at the angles you want them. This will make installing it later easier. We had some trouble after the glue had dried because one of the dowels had moved slightly in its hole.  

13. Stain and finish the shelves. Once the dowels are dry, finish them to your liking. I used Minwax Natural Oak stain to match another piece of furniture we have in the room. You can use a rag or brush to apply stain, but I prefer staining pads. They’re faster and cleaner than any other method I’ve tried.

Once the stain is dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions, apply your chosen finish. My preference is spray-on polyurethane because it’s quick and easy. I applied three coats to the bottom and sides of each shelf, and five coats to the top, because that’s where the wear and tear will happen.

When the hanger board is secure, slide the shelf board over the dowels. Again, this is easier with two people, one working on each side of the shelf.  Wiggle the dowels as needed to get them lined up with the holes, and slide the shelf board into place. We had to sand some dowels down even more to get them all to fit. 

Finally, install the small wood screw into the pilot hole you drilled in Step 9. While the dowels should hold the shelf board in place with only friction, this is a simple safety feature to prevent the shelf from sliding apart.

And you’re done. Load your shelves up with whatever you need to store, and be prepared to amaze your friends with your magical shelving powers.

The post Defy gravity by building these floating shelves appeared first on Popular Science.

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‘Tis the season for spooky decor. And if there’s one ornament that screams that Halloween season is here, it’s a jack-o’-lantern. Unfortunately, many animals find pumpkins delicious, and if by the end of the season, yours has not turned into a rodent’s dinner, it will at least be rotten and destroyed. 

To avoid the stench of a decomposing piece of fruit on my porch, this year I made jack-o’-lanterns out of wood. This is a relatively straightforward build that still provides plenty of opportunities to flex your creativity. 

And regardless of the age and dexterity of the people living with you at home, you can make this project a family affair—I built three in my first batch, and had each of my kids and my wife design the faces. My children are only seven and I don’t trust them with a jigsaw yet, but they still helped assemble the boxes and tops. We also got to tromp through the woods together searching for the perfect stick to make the stems from. 

There’s also no reason these boxes have to be limited to Halloween. Carve whatever symbols speak to your favorite seasons or holidays, and you’ll have decorations to keep your home festive all year round. 

All I did to trim my boards was joint the long edges down to size on my table saw. Then I squared up and trimmed the ends to length using my crosscut sled. This process was more than adequate for creating a nice, tight box. You’ll be able to hide any gaps later with a coat of paint.

Pro tip: If you’re buying your wood, take your time at the store to sort through the lumber and find the flattest boards. Instead of just looking at it straight on, look down the full length of the board on all four sides, but particularly along each long edge. This is the best way to see the waves and warps. Spending 10 minutes searching for the best boards can save you a lot of headaches later on.

[Related: 3 Halloween costumes you can make with reused masks]

3. Glue the pieces together to form a box. Assemble the four sides of the box by smearing wood glue on one long edge of the front board, and pressing one of the two side boards against it. Make sure the edge is flush with the face. Drive brad nails through the sideboard into the edge of the front board to hold the two together while the glue dries. Then repeat the process with the other side. 

If you don’t have a brad nailer, you can use clamps for this step. The nailer is just faster, particularly if you’re making more than one box at a time. 

Continue by installing the back of the box in the same way. This board is shorter than the others to create an opening where you can slip the tea light into the box when it’s fully assembled, so you’ll need to position this board at the top of the box, not the bottom. If you haven’t carved your design yet, the top and bottom probably don’t matter at this point in the process. If you have, make sure the bottom of your design aligns with the tea light opening. 

5. Sand, sand, and then sand some more. Once the glue has dried, it’s time to sand. I use 120-grit sandpaper on my orbital sander. The priority is to flush the edges with the faces to hide some of the seams. This also helps make cutting the face with a jigsaw easier, as the saw won’t get hung up on the lips. 

I didn’t try to remove any pits, scratches, or imperfections in the wood, for two reasons. First, you’ll be painting your box bright orange which will hide a lot of those imperfections. Second, I’m aiming for a weathered look, which means holes, marks, and scratches fit the aesthetic beautifully. If you’re aiming for a more polished, pristine look, then by all means—keep sanding. 

6. Carve the face. I used a jigsaw to carve out the face, and the box shape created a stable platform for me to cut on that was deep enough for the saw blade to move up and down in. 

If I’d done it before assembling the box, I would have had to find (or build) a place to cut while clamping the board down to my bench, which seemed like a lot of unnecessary effort. 

The process with a jigsaw is pretty easy and took about 10 minutes. First, draw your design on the front of the box. Make sure that the face is oriented so the opening in the back panel is at the bottom.

Next, drill a series of holes in the design large enough for the saw blade to fit into. A 3/8-inch drill bit worked for my blades. The placement of these holes can make the difference between an easy path for your saw and a hard one. Put one hole in each corner of the design elements (eyes, nose, mouth, at the tips of teeth), so that you can cut from hole to hole along the line, and then back the other way as needed. This will allow you to make longer, smoother cuts, and reduces or eliminates the need to cut yourself space to turn around in, which leaves ugly, jagged edges behind. 

When I’d gotten most of the features smooth with the files, I went back over it one more time with a piece of 120-grit sandpaper wrapped around a small scrap of wood. This couldn’t get everywhere but did a decent job. I also used this to round over the sharp edges of the holes. 

8. Paint it like a pumpkin. You can paint your jack-o’-lanterns using whatever colors, techniques, or patterns you like. But If you want to replicate the weathered, rustic look of the pumpkins in the photos, you’ll have to go through a two-step process. 

Start by painting everything black—top, box, and base. I used regular black spray paint for this, but use whatever you have on hand or that you’re comfortable with. Then, paint over that black foundation with several light coats of glossy orange. I wanted the top and base to remain black, so I applied the new coats of paint to the box only. By doing light coats, the black underlayer shows through. I kept adding new coats until the vast majority of the box was orange, but there were still some specks of black, as though the paint had started to fade and discolor over time. It took about three coats of orange to achieve the look that I was going for. 

9. Pumpkins, assemble! Now it’s time to put everything together. The first step is to screw the stems to the top. My lanterns are designed to sit on stairs, so I used a 2-inch long piece of branch that my kids chose from a tree in my backyard as the stem. If you’re planning to hang the lantern, you can also use a dowel, or install an eye bolt. 

[Related: Five science tricks to scare up a better Halloween costume]

Then it’s just a matter of using wood glue to attach the top and bottom to the box. However, this was slightly tricky to clamp, so I used gravity and cyanoacrylates (CA) glue instead—a strong, fast-acting glue that bonds well to a wide variety of surfaces. A few dabs of CA glue at each corner kept the top from sliding. To add some clamping pressure, I just placed some heavy objects on the tops of the lanterns—screw boxes, my drill, a container of wall repair spackle, and some other random items. A few hours later, the combination made for a perfectly adequate glue-up. 

10. Light it up. The last step is to slip a flickering tea light inside the box through the opening in the back, flip it on, and then turn the lights off. The result should be a spooky, glowing Halloween decoration you can use inside or out. 

The post Make wooden Jack-o’-lanterns you can reuse for many happy Halloweens appeared first on Popular Science.

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An old friend from high school wanted a custom wedding card box. But hers had a twist—she was getting married on Halloween, so she wanted it to be in the shape of a coffin. As a woodworker, I’ve made boxes before, but never one shaped like a coffin. It presented some unique challenges and techniques I’d never used before, so I took it on. 

The resulting coffin can easily be used as a wedding card box, jewelry storage, or even a creepy decoration for Halloween. It’s stained dark, like the smears of chocolate on my kids’ faces at the end of the night, and lined with red velvet. 

2. Cut the wood down to size. If you bought wood that’s already the right thickness, cut it to width and rough length (about 1 to 2 inches longer than you need). I did both of these with my table saw—a regular rip cut for the width, and then I used a crosscut sled to cut to length. This approach gives me the most control and precision with my cuts. You can also easily do this with a miter saw. I used reclaimed wood, so I also used my jointer and planer to fully square and dimension the lumber.

[Related: These DIY hanging plant shelves will make your home feel like a forest canopy]

6. It’s time to glue. Once all the pieces are taped together and you’ve checked (yes, again) that they’re straight and in the right order, flip the whole unit over so the inside faces are up. Squeeze wood glue into each angle valley and spread it with a scrap of wood or your finger, so it coats the entire angle. Then fold the entire unit into the coffin shape, and glue and secure the final joint with one last piece of tape. Double-check that all of your joints are tight and secure, and add more tape as needed. 

7. Remove the tape. Once the glue has dried—check the manufacturer’s instructions for how long that will take—strip off all the tape and confirm that everything adhered properly. Then remove the glue squeeze-out with a chisel and an orbital sander with 80- or 120-grit sandpaper.

9. (Optional) Trace the box walls. If you’re planning to install a fabric liner later on, trace the inside of the box onto your poster board now before attaching the top and bottom.  

10. Prepare to finish the box. At this point, you can simply glue your box sides onto the base, screw the top on with hinges, and call it a day. However, I took mine a step further and inset the base. This involves creating a rabbet groove along the outside edge of the base the same thickness as the box walls, and then sliding the box on top of it. This inset gives the entire structure more stability and rigidity. 

11. (Optional) Cut the rabbet. The easiest and fastest way to cut a rabbet is with a straight bit router at a router table. Set the bit height to take about a 16th of an inch. Then route along all six sides, increase the bit depth, and do it again until you’ve created a groove about half the depth of the wood. Clean up the edges, and slide your box over the top. It should fit snug but without outward pressure on the joints.

• Tip: If you don’t have a router table, you can cut rabbets freehand with a router or take multiple passes with your table saw, moving the fence an eighth of an inch at a time. 

13. Clean up the glue and start sanding. When the glue is dry, clean off the residue with a chisel, paint scraper, or sandpaper, and sand again using 120-grit sandpaper. Check all of your glued seams and joints. There are likely some small holes or cracks in the glue lines. That’s totally normal. 

17. Install the hardware. Once the finish is dry, drill the pilot holes for your hardware screws and install the hinges and latches. You now have your very own tiny coffin. 

[Related: Build your own hot glue gun stand to prove you know more than scalding goop]

1. Cut pieces of poster board. Make sure they match the bottom, top, and inside walls of your box. Because mine was an odd-shaped box, I traced the inside of the box on the poster board before I attached the base. If you didn’t trace the inside of the box beforehand, you can trace the outside of the box now and subtract the thickness of your sides to find the inside dimensions.

2. Cut the fabric. Grab your scissors and ensure the fabric is about 1 inch bigger than its corresponding poster board piece in every direction. 

3. Glue the fabric in place. Using spray adhesive, fasten the fabric to the face of the poster board, leaving those 1-inch overhangs on each side. Make sure the fabric is flat on the board as you glue it—you won’t be able to eliminate folds once the adhesive sets. 

4. Finish adhering the fabric. Fold the fabric overhangs over the back of the poster board and stick them there with spray adhesive. Pull these tight to create even, smooth edges. 

The post Build a beautiful wedding card box shaped like a coffin for some spooky storage appeared first on Popular Science.

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Mechanical keyboards are all the rage and it’s easy to see why—there’s the pleasure of being able to really hit the keys, the clicky sounds, and the fact that they can be highly customizable. 

If you want to upgrade your typing experience with one of these gadgets, there are two ways to go about it: You can always buy one or, if you’re up for the challenge, put one together yourself. Choosing one approach or the other may not make a huge difference in the price tag of your new peripheral. But there’s only one way that gives you the satisfaction of having made a keyboard that’s specifically made for you and by you. 

If you’re ready for an adventure, here’s how you can build your own 65-percent mechanical keyboard. A high-end peripheral can easily cost in excess of $100, so we designed this project to be generally affordable, and if you want to cut costs further, you can even 3D-print your case. Ordering your components will generally be more expensive, resulting in a final price tag of around $150. Making your own parts, on the other hand, can reduce that cost to less than $50.

And don’t get deterred if you don’t have a 3D printer at home—you can always sign up for a membership at your local maker space where there will likely be machines you can use and even classes you can attend. If you really want to take the plunge and get your own 3D printer, we’ve put together a guide with everything you need to know before you buy one.

You can choose to buy an aluminum case or a plastic one. Aluminum tends to be more expensive, but it’s more solid and hefty, which makes it a good choice if you don’t tend to move your keyboard around. On the other hand, some people prefer the look of plastic cases, which are also usually cheaper. Some cases come with a fitting plate, which is the piece that holds the keyboard switches in place, but you can also just look for a case that has an integrated plate. Pick the model, color, and material you like the most—just make sure the case has a mini-USB slot for the control board.

For those who choose to 3D print their own case, I recommend using FedorSosnin’s SiCK-68 tada68 ‘thing’ from Thingiverse. It is well-designed and the printing instructions are easy to follow. If you’re more advanced when it comes to 3D printing, you can alter the Thingiverse design or make one from scratch using the swillkb Plate & Case Builder resource. I personally went with the SiCK-68 build nice and compact, and you can print it in whatever colors you like, but I used silver PET-G filament for the bottom part of the case and white filament for the top. I chose PET-G filament because it’s sturdy and durable, but you can also use PLA, which won’t require you to change the default settings on Ultimater Cura.

When using the SiCK-68 template you’ll need to print some parts separately—the lower and upper case pieces (both left and right), the dowels (to join the pieces together), and the keycaps for the Alt, function, right shift, and CTRL or Command keys, if you buy a standard keycap set. These keycaps are slightly smaller than the Tada68 layout, so you’ll need to make your own to fit the case.

The printing process should be fairly similar for all 3D printers but I used a Creality Ender-3 so I will describe the 3D printing process based on that. If you are using a printer that doesn’t have automatic bed leveling, start by leveling your bed before printing to ensure that you get the best results. I used Ultimater Cura to do my slicing, but you can use another slicer such as Prusa Slicer. You can find the relevant settings I used below—you can use them as a baseline and adjust them to fit your specific machine and filament. If these settings result in a messy-looking print, slowing down the speed should fix any issues.

2. Install the switches. Install your switches into the assembled top half of your keyboard case or plate. We went for the Akko CS Ocean Blue, as they are clicky and very affordable, but you can use whatever switches you like as long as they have three pins and are the same size. 

To install them, make sure all the switches are facing in the same direction and press them into place until you hear a click—that’s how you know they are secured.

3. Solder the switches to the diodes. Now you need to start setting up your keyboard’s control system, which allows the signal of a pressed key to travel from the right switch to the control board. The first step is to solder diodes to the pins of your switches. 

Diodes usually come in sets of 100, but you’ll only need 68—one for each key. This will leave you with a lot of room for error if you need it. These delicate components ensure that current only flows in one direction so that there are no loops that will end up frying your keyboard or causing your machine to register the wrong key. 

Start off by identifying which end is the cathode of the diode—you’ll recognize it by the black band painted on the body. Use your wirecutter to trim the cathode down to 1/2-inch and solder it to the left pin of a switch. Repeat the process with all remaining switches and finish up by trimming the remaining ends of the diodes to 1/2-inch.

5. Connect each column of switches with a wire. Measure up, cut, and strip 15 shorter pieces of stripped solid core wire long enough to span the length of the columns of your keyboard. Solder one piece of wire to the right pin of each switch in the first column and repeat for all columns.

6. Connect your rainbow wires to the row and column wires. Strip the ends of five wires from your rainbow wire spool, and solder them onto the ends of each row of wire. You can choose the right or left end of the row wires, but whatever you do, make sure your Teensy is able to slot into its spot in the bottom half of the case without issue. If you don’t router your wires properly, they could bunch up and not leave enough space for the Teensy and the case might not even be able to close up properly. 

Continue by stripping the ends of a set of 15 wires from your rainbow wire spool and solder them onto the ends of each column wire. 

At this point, the back of your keyboard should look something like this. 

9. Slot in the stabilizers and the keycaps. Stabilizers will help, well, stabilize bigger keys, like the left shift key, the backspace, the spacebar, and the Enter keys. Once the stabilizers are in place, you can attach the keycaps to the switches—just line up the cross-shaped slot in the keycap and push it into place. In case you don’t remember where each keycap goes, you can use this layout as a reference.

10. Test the Teensy. Make sure everything works as it should, by going to the Keyboard Tester website and trying out your gadget. You should see the platform registering each stroke as you hit the keys. 

Any issues you run into may be due to shorts—maybe you didn’t apply the electrical tape properly, or it may have been damaged in some places. This is an easy fix: visually inspect the tape to see if there are any issues. If problems persist, then it might mean something is not soldered correctly. Disconnect the keyboard, remove the tape, and rejoin anything that might have separated. 

You might not like the roughness as much as I do (you can easily polish that early on in the process), but the action of the switches and keycaps is quick and polished, so the texture doesn’t compromise the gadget’s performance. The Akko CS Ocean Blue switches are very tactile and clicky, which I personally love, but if you want something quieter, then there are other options out there.

I am a new convert to mechanical keyboards and thanks to this build there’s no way I’m going back to a membrane keyboard. This is a basic build but you don’t have to stop here. You can build one to use at home and one for the office. You can add more customizations like different colored keycaps and you can even add LEDs. The sky’s the limit.

The post Build a mechanical keyboard from scratch with 3D-printed components appeared first on Popular Science.

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This article was originally featured on The Conversation.

For many Americans, pumpkins mean that fall is here. In anticipation, coffee shops, restaurants and grocery stores start their pumpkin flavor promotions in late August, a month before autumn officially begins. And shoppers start buying fresh decorative winter produce, such as pumpkins and turban squash, in the hot, sultry days of late summer.

But these fruits – yes, botanically, pumpkins and squash are fruits–don’t last forever. And they may not even make it to Halloween if you buy and carve them too early.

As a plant pathologist, gardener and self-described pumpkin fanatic, I have both boldly succeeded and miserably failed at growing, properly carving and keeping these iconic winter squash in their prime through the end of October. Here are some tips that can help your epic carving outlast the Day of the Dead.

Pick a healthy pumpkin and transport it carefully

This may seem obvious, but shop for a pumpkin in the same way that you shop the produce aisle. Whether you plan to carve them or not, choose pumpkins that are not damaged, dented or diseased. Is the stem loose? Is there a clear break in the rind? Are there any water-soaked spots on the exterior?

Post-harvest diseases–those that occur after the pumpkin is removed from the vine–can happen anywhere between the field where they were grown and your front step. A bruise or crack will allow opportunistic fungi, bacteria, water molds and small insects to invade and colonize your pumpkins. Keeping the rind defect-free and stem intact ensures your prized pumpkin a longer shelf life.

The trip home also matters. Most of us transport pets, kids, muddy hiking boots and food in our cars, which makes our vehicles giant petri dishes harboring common environmental molds and bacteria. Some of those microbes could colonize your unsuspecting pumpkins.

Secure your pumpkins en route to your house so they don’t suffer bruising or stem breakage. My family often uses seat belts to protect ours. Once home, don’t carry your pumpkin by the stem, which can lead to breakage, especially if it is big and heavy.

Keep them clean and dry

Pumpkins spend most of their lives in fields, developing on top of soil that teems with fungi, bacteria, water molds and soil-dwelling animals like nematodes, insects and mites. Removing these organisms, and any eggs they may have affixed to your pumpkin’s rind, will help preserve it.

To get rid of them, wipe down your pumpkins, preferably with a bleach wipe or two. This is especially important if you plan to carve them: Piercing the dirty rind with a sharp tool will introduce these eager visitors deeper into the heart of your pumpkin. Be sure to use clean tools as well. Microbes can reside and multiply on small amounts of pumpkin debris stuck in the teeth of dirty carving knives.

Even if you are not carving your pumpkin, wiping it down isn’t a bad idea, since it may have small bruises or cracks that are easy to overlook.

ls. As you scoop out the pumpkin’s innards, thoroughly inspect the inside walls for soft rotten patches or dark tissues, which may have been colonized pre- or post-harvest by bacteria, fungi or water molds. Diseased pumpkins sometimes produce an off-putting smell, so use your nose as well.

If you find these issues as you carve, you may want to try carving another pumpkin. You can also paint your pumpkins instead of carving them, which averts the need to peer inside.

Some online tutorials and YouTube videos recommend thinning out pumpkins’ walls to better allow candle or LED light to pass through. But if you make the walls too thin, your jack-o’-lantern’s fangs will become inward-curving skin tabs as the pulp desiccates and deforms. A toothless jack-o’-lantern scares no one.

Another advantage of maintaining thicker walls is that it enables you to try a 3D carving. This involves shaping the pumpkin’s surface as you would carve a piece of wood, without breaking through the shell, and can produce dramatic results.

Some people soak their carved pumpkins in diluted bleach or vinegar water after completing them. But this technique is a double-edged sword: Adding more free moisture to your masterpiece invites windblown mold spores and rain-splashed bacteria to colonize it. However, applying a light coating of petroleum jelly or vegetable oil to all the exposed parts can extend the shelf life of your sculpted squash.

Protect your creation

October is a wet month with frequent rains in many parts of the U.S. Rain falling on your jack-o’-lantern will invite every mold in the neighborhood to take up residency in or on it. For this reason, I recommend keeping your pumpkins on a covered porch or displaying them from indoors in a window.

It’s OK if some mold forms inside it, as not all fungi cause soft rots–diseases that produce wet spots that spread, become mushy and turn black. If a pumpkin does become overly moldy on the inside walls, move it outdoors to avoid producing a lot of spores in your home.

When your pumpkin does start to mold and collapse, don’t throw it in a landfill. Put it out for your neighborhood deer or atop your compost pile. Or find a spot in your yard where you can watch it degrade over time, until it turns back to soil in time for next year’s pumpkin patch.

Matt Kasson receives funding from the National Science Foundation, The National Geographic Society and the U.S. Department of Agriculture. He is an active member of the Mycological Society of America and the American Phytopathological Society.

The post How to keep your pumpkins maggot and mold free for Halloween appeared first on Popular Science.

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If you’ve ever purchased two-by-fours at a big box store, you know very well that not all lumber is straight or flat. Although wood is hard, it can flex, bow, and bend as it dries or is exposed to moisture. Warped wood can be challenging to work with: precision cuts will be more difficult and joints won’t be as strong.

You can also fully mill wood with only hand tools, though that takes a lot of time and practice to do well.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a face mask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 1 to 4 hours
• Cost: None
• Difficulty: moderate 

Tools

• Moisture meter
• Table saw
• Jointer
• Planer
• Push block
• Crosscut sled (or miter saw)
• (Optional) jointer sled for the table saw
• (Optional) flattening sled for the planer
• (Optional) hand plane

1. Properly acclimate, dry, and store your wood. Wet wood warps. Drying wood warps. Wood that changes environments warps. If you haven’t properly dried and stored your wood, it doesn’t matter how square you get it. It will warp again.

When you first bring your wood home, test it for moisture content. Ideally, your planks should contain around 9 percent moisture or less. If they’re too wet, let them sit until they’re dry. No matter what, you should let the boards sit in your shop for at least a few days to adjust to the temperature and humidity of their new environment.

Don’t stack boards to dry directly on top of one another. This will trap moisture between them, which can cause additional warping, or even cracking. Instead, slide small strips of wood called stickers between each board to ensure proper ventilation. This will allow the planks to dry more uniformly. 

To make my stickers, I cut approximately half-inch-wide strips from whatever scrap pieces of wood I have lying around.

2. Flatten one face. Once a piece of wood is dry, flatten one of its faces. There are a few ways to do this. The best way is to use a jointer, which is designed specifically for this purpose. Slide the board along the bed of the tool and over the rotating cutter head. Always use push blocks to do so, as you don’t want your fingers anywhere near the blades. It will typically take multiple passes to get the face completely flat.

If you don’t have a jointer, you can flatten wood with a planer. However, you’ll need to build a sled to do it. The reason you can’t flatten a board in a planer without a sled is because a planer doesn’t base its cuts off of a flat surface. Instead, the planer will follow the contours of the bottom of whatever you feed it. So if your board is warped, the planer will cut the top of that piece of wood to follow the deformity. By using a sled, you force the planer to follow the milled surface of the sled, leaving a nice, flat cut.

• Pro tip: To help yourself see when you’re done, scribble all over the face you’re working with a pencil. When all of the pencil markings are gone, you’ll know that face is flat.
• Note: For those without a planer or jointer, you can build a router sled to flatten the faces of your boards, but that’s more labor intensive, particularly if you’re milling a lot of wood.

3. Joint one edge. Now that one face is flat, it’s time to trim an edge. The goal is to get this edge perfectly straight and at a right angle to the flattened face. Again, the best tool for this job is a jointer. First, decide which edge to flatten. I typically pick the one that’s closest to flat already. If they’re both wonky, I cut the one that rides more securely along the bed of my jointer.

Place your board on the jointer infeed table with the chosen edge down and the previously flattened face tight against the fence. Push the board over the cutter head, trimming the edge. Again, this will likely take several passes. When you’re done, the edge should be perfectly straight and at a right angle to the face. 

• Pro tip: Use a pencil to mark the edge and face you have flattened, drawing arrows that point to the 90-degree corner so you don’t lose track of what you’ve done.  
• Note: If you don’t have a jointer for this step, you can edge joint a board with a table saw. 

4. Flatten the second face. If you have a planer, this is straightforward. Simply run the board through the machine with the flattened face down. Again, scribbling with pencil all over the rough side of the board will help you see when you’ve flattened every square inch of the wood.

The planer is the best tool for this job because it cuts parallel to the board’s bottom face, so you’ll get a uniform thickness. You can’t use the jointer for this because it isn’t capable of cutting parallel to the top face. If you try, the board will likely develop a front-to-back taper, which defeats the point of milling. 

If you don’t have a planer, there are a few other ways to flatten this face. The first is to use a router sled, which was also an option for step 2. The second is to use a table saw, with the square edge down and the flattened face against the fence, but this method only works if the board is small enough that your saw blade can cut it.

5. Cut the remaining edge. You now have two parallel faces and one edge that is at a 90-degree angle to both. The next step is to trim the remaining edge on your table saw. If you know the final width you need the board to be, set your table saw fence to that distance from the blade. Otherwise, set the fence to trim off a sliver of that last edge. By taking only a tiny amount of wood, you reduce the waste and keep the board more versatile for future projects.

[Related: Tune up your table saw the right way]

Run the board through the saw with one face down and the jointed edge against the fence. This will create a cut parallel to that edge, which is also perpendicular to both faces. 

• Pro tip: Anytime you use your table saw, check the angle of the blade with a digital angle finder. On some projects, like cutting boards, there’s a noticeable difference between 89.8 and 90 degrees. 

6. Trim the ends to length. You can trim the ends of your board with either a miter saw or the crosscut sled on the table saw. The latter is generally my preference because I have better control with the table saw. Plus, clutter piles up near my miter saw and I have to pick it up every time I want to use the tool, whereas my table saw is usually clear.  

Place one of the edges against the fence of your sled (if you’re using a table saw) or the fence built into the saw itself (if you’re using a miter saw). From there, trim off enough wood that the first end is perfectly flat. Then flip the board around and cut it to your preferred length (or simply slice off enough to flatten the opposite end if you’re not sure what you want to use it for).

• Pro tip: I try to keep the same edge against the fence for both cuts, for consistency’s sake, but if you’ve properly milled the lumber to this step, it shouldn’t matter which edge you use.

Now your board is perfectly square in all three dimensions, and you’ve opened up a whole new world of woodworking. Go forth and build.

The post Every woodworker should know how to mill their own boards appeared first on Popular Science.

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Making something with your own hands brings a special kind of satisfaction that is well known to woodworkers (like me), and all types of artisans. Some may not know this feeling, as many DIY hobbies make it hard for you to get started, requiring tools that may be expensive and take up a lot of space, or specific know-how you can’t learn off the internet.

That’s what I love about makerspaces. These facilities are popping up all around the country and provide people who love to make stuff the space, tools, and equipment to participate in crafts such as woodworking, metalworking, ceramics, electronics, sewing, and more. But most importantly, by signing up to one of these spaces you join a community of like-minded people you can learn and draw inspiration from. 

So no matter your needs or level of experience, you should consider joining your local makerspace as well.  

More space, more tools

Some hobbies not only require tools, but also the freedom to make a mess without worrying about your furniture.

“I want a space where I can get dirty, and I can’t do it in my apartment,” says Omar Eddin, co-founder, and CEO of MakePlus in Los Angeles, California. 

Even as someone with a 150-square-foot workshop in my basement, I can relate. My home space is cramped and dusty, and there’s almost no room to move around without tripping on a hose, cord, or pile of wood. I certainly can’t build large projects like a dining table or kitchen cabinets, and it’s not only uncomfortable, but it could be terribly unsafe. That’s why I decided to join my local makerspace, Lowell Makes in Massachusetts, which offers 3,000 square feet solely to the wood shop—that’s more square footage than my entire house. While not all are that large, they’re likely much bigger than whatever workspace you have at home.

[Related: Get your scratched wooden cutting board looking bright and new]

Another benefit of space that I didn’t really consider when I first joined my local makerspace is the ability to work on more than one project at a time. In my shop, if the glue or finish on one project is drying, I generally can’t work on anything else because I’ll have no more available space. At the makerspace, I can put my glued-up cutting boards off to the side to dry and tackle a batch of headphone stands. The ability to spread out and work across projects is a huge time saver. 

And then there are the tools. I’m not going to lie—I have spent a lot of money on tools, and have just about everything that a hobbyist woodworker needs.  But a makerspace offers tools that I can’t even dream of having at home, either because of the cost or the amount of space they take up. For example, with a price tag that goes over $4,000, the 25-inch planer at my local makerspace literally won’t fit down the stairs into my basement, so I couldn’t have one even if I were willing to splurge. And if you don’t have any tools, makerspaces usually have absolutely everything a beginner needs to start creating and then some, so you can try a new hobby before you start investing in anything other than materials.

Join a community of makers

A lot of people, including me, first go to makerspaces for the room and the tools. But the longer I’ve been at Lowell Makes, the more I realize that the real value of a place like this is the community. For a newcomer makerspaces are an amazing place to learn,  no matter the craft they’ve chosen. 

“It brings a non-traditional learning environment,” says John Noto, co-founder, and treasurer of Lowell Makes, noting that the most valuable learning happens during one-on-one interactions between members, not through classes. “You can learn stuff in an apprenticeship-type way. You can work with people […] and a lot of people are more comfortable with that.” 

Some makerspaces may have staff—usually volunteers—available to answer some of your questions, but most of the time, everyone is everyone’s teacher. Don’t be afraid to ask around—experienced members can help you learn to use the tools safely, teach you proper techniques, and offer advice when you hit a roadblock.  

Many spaces also offer formal education programs, with classes focused around all of the different shops. Signing up for those might be a great idea if you’re starting out or got curious about a new craft you discovered at the makerspace.

“Many people come in with one tool in mind, and then go ‘Oh my God, I didn’t realize you had [these other shops]’,” says Rio Sabella, chair of the membership committee at Lowell Makes. 

In addition to learning and improving, just working in an environment surrounded by other creators is also worth the membership. Seeing what other people are doing and chatting about their processes can be a source of inspiration and even collaboration. 

Makerspaces help businesses flourish

Makerspaces can also be a major support system for more experienced creators trying to turn their hobbies into businesses. Steve De La Cruz, business development and operations manager at MakePlus in Los Angeles, also runs his woodworking design store, Main & 38th, almost entirely out of the makerspace. For Steve, joining MakePlus cut the entry barrier for his business, saving him tens of thousands of dollars in startup costs like tools, insurance, and utilities. 

And saving money isn’t all that makerspaces can do for business owners—they can help you grow it, too. Sabella is another makerspace entrepreneur, running two businesses out of Lowell Makes: Sabella Woodworking and Pipe Dream Arts. In addition to the support and learning, the community is a significant source of clients and referrals.  

“Starting your own business or doing any of the DIY stuff is scary,” he says Eddin. It can be comforting to have a community where others have gone through similar entrepreneurial experiences, he explains, and knowing that you can find support and ask questions is one of the greatest values of makerspaces. 

What to look for in a makerspace

If you’re interested in finding a local makerspace to join, there are a few things you should look out for. 

First and foremost, make sure that it has what you need, meaning the tools and space your craft requires. But you should also consider other aspects like whether they offer storage on-site (so you don’t have to move projects and materials back and forth), classes and training, and 24/7 access if that’s something that interests you. 

Lastly, ask about their different membership levels and find the one that works for you. For example, at my makerspace, basic membership tiers offer basic access to all the shops, while higher tiers include storage space, shared offices, conference rooms, and even dedicated office space.

Once you know a makerspace has the nuts and bolts of what you need to be successful, the next thing you’ll need to find out is if the community and culture fit your personality. Noto says the best way to do this is to visit. 

“Go to an open house […] get in there, walk around and get a flavor for the space. It’s all about the community. Talk to people,” he says.

Ask about the equipment and logistics, but also ask community-focused questions like member collaboration, opportunities to share knowledge and skills, and community-building events.

[Related: Two ways to joint wood on your table saw—no jointer needed]

You may also be able to get some insights into makerspaces by attending local craft and artisan fairs in your area. Makerspaces will often attend and have members on hand to answer your questions. Other vendors might even be members themselves and able to share their experiences. By chatting with makers in your area you can get a sense of just how vibrant a community your local makerspace has created.

Finally, don’t be afraid. Sabella says as part of the membership committee at Lowell Makes, he comes across a lot of people who think that makerspaces are cool, but are not for them. Still, he encourages everyone not to let that stop them if they’re interested. 

“Makerspaces can offer a thousand different things to a thousand different people,” he explains.
“You don’t even have to know what it is you want to do to get involved.”

So if you’re looking for a place to finally build that project you’ve been dreaming about, or want to take your DIY crafting to a new level, then it might be time to find a makerspace in your area.  A community full of like-minded creators might be out there waiting for you. 

The post 3 reasons to join your local makerspace appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

At the end of each workday or gaming session, I’ve taken to pulling off my headphones and tossing them haphazardly on my desk. It’s easy, but it’s a mess. I stack other things over them. They knock over my neat piles of paper. (No, not clutter. Piles.) The cord gets tangled. Chaos reigns.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a face mask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 2 to 4 hours
• Material cost: $10 to $30
• Difficulty: easy

Materials

• 1 (4-foot-long) 1-by-6 board
• Wood glue
• Spray-on polyurethane
• (Optional) red mahogany wood stain (or the stain or oil of your choice)
• (Optional) powered USB hub
• (Optional) rubber feet

Tools

• Miter saw
• Table saw
• Crosscut sled
• Straight edge
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs (60-, 80-, 120-, 150-, and 220-grit)
• Jigsaw (or bandsaw)
• Clamps
• Drill

The base can be as long as you want, provided that it is at least as long as the vertical stand extends forward. I cut mine out as a 5.5-inch square.

2. Draw the basic shape of your vertical stand. There aren’t many rules to this. Numerous shapes work, as long as they are vertically stable and have a wide enough area on top to hold your headphones. You’ll also need to add a tenon to the bottom, which is an extension that will slide into a slot in the base board to join the two pieces together. This tenon should be the same height as the base is thick. The easiest way to measure this is to place the base board on a flat surface, face down, and stand the vertical piece up next to it. Mark a line on the vertical board at the top of the base and use this line as the “floor” of your design—everything below it will be inset into the base board. 

For purely aesthetic reasons, I wanted my stand to lean forward slightly. To create the angle, I measured in 1 inch along the top right edge of the board and made a mark. Then I drew a line with a straight edge that connected that mark to the bottom right corner of the board. This would be the back of my stand. From there, I made a matching line 2 inches to the left to mark the front of the stand.

For the headset hanger itself, I measured left 2 inches from the top front corner of the stand. Then I drew a 1-inch-long line straight down from there and drew perpendicular from the bottom of that line to the front of the stand. This created a parallelogram as the neck of the stand, with a rectangle off the front of it as the nose. Together, these served as the basic shape of the overall hanger.

• Note: If you have the knowledge, you can draw your design in a program like SketchUp or Adobe Illustrator, print it out, and glue it to your board to cut it out. 

3. Add flair and curves to your design. With the basic shape drawn, it’s time to add some flair. For me, that meant turning my straight lines and sharp angles into curves, but let your imagination run wild.

If you’re feeling curves as well, there are a few ways to make them. The easiest, but least reliable way is to just freehand them. I only freehand smaller curves or ones that don’t follow a uniform arc. The second way is to find a circular object in your shop about the size you need, plop it onto your board, and trace it. You can also use a flexible ruler or piece of wood and some clamps or nails to trace an arc, which is how I typically do it. I’m also intrigued by the idea of making an arc drawing jig.

4. Cut out the vertical stand. The easiest way to cut out an odd shape like this is with a band saw. If you don’t have one, you can use a jigsaw, as long as you carefully clamp the wood—your workpiece—down. If you don’t have a jigsaw, you can do the job with a coping saw, but in the time it’ll take you to do that, you could’ve probably driven to the store to buy a jigsaw.

5. Cut a slot in the base board to hold the stand. This slot should be the same width as the tenon on the stand. To measure it, position the stand where you want it on the edge of the base and trace the outline of the tenon. This will give you the size of the slot without any fancy measuring.

If you’re careful and precise, you can cut this slot out with a jigsaw or bandsaw. My preferred method, however, is with my table saw and crosscut sled. Raise the height of the blade to the length of the slot. Position the board vertically with one large face flat against the fence, and the thin slot edge facing down on the base of the sled. Cut out the slot using multiple passes, moving the board left or right one blade’s width at a time in between cuts—DO NOT try to move it while it’s touching the blade. 

No matter which method you use, err on the side of making the slot too small. You can always trim more off with your saw, a chisel, or sandpaper, but it’s far more work to fix a loose joint, if you can fix it at all. Test-fit the stand regularly. You’ll have the perfect fit when the vertical board stays in place with only the friction of the joint, no glue needed, though we will glue it eventually.

6. Sand, sand, and sand some more. Once all your pieces are cut, it’s time to make them silky smooth. Using an orbital sander, hit your pieces with 120-, 150-, 180-, and finally 220-grit sandpaper. The only areas you shouldn’t sand are the inside of the slot and the tenon itself. Sanding these can ruin the fit.  

7. Assemble the stand. Once the pieces are smooth, spread wood glue onto the tenon and inside the slot. Slide the tenon on the vertical stand into the slot on the base, and clamp it in place as best as you can. You’ll want to really make sure your clamps pull the tenon forward and push it down. 

8. Add the finish of your choice. Depending on the type of wood you used, you might want to use a stain like red mahogany, which was my choice, or just apply an oil-based finish. Test different finishes on your scraps to see which one you like best. Apply it according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Once your stain or oil is dry, apply one or more coats of polyurethane for protection, again according to the manufacturer’s instructions. I like to use spray-on polyurethane, but if you’re more comfortable with a brush or rag, regular polyurethane works just as well.

Optional additions for your desktop headset stand

The steps above will get you a sturdy, basic headphones stand, but there are plenty of ways to work in useful elements that will make your day-to-day desk life much easier. Ideally you’d pencil them into your design from the outset, but you can try to add them later, or build an entirely new stand to keep practicing your skills (and using up scrap wood).

A USB charging hub

I bought a two-outlet USB charging port to add to my stand so I could charge both my Bluetooth headset and my phone right from the stand. To attach it, I built a box large enough to contain the charging port, using the stand I’d already made as the top. I trimmed down the stand to match the dimensions of the box, which was a 4-by-4-inch square. 

The box itself was just three pieces of scrap wood cut to the same height as the charging port, which forms the fourth side of the box. With those pieces cut, I glued them to the bottom of the stand and screwed the charging port into place. I chose to put it on the back of the stand so I didn’t have to look at it, but it can go on any side.

[Related: Build your own desk with custom features like USB ports and biometrics]

Finally, I glued the entire unit onto another, larger base board—5.5 inches wide by 11 inches long—and drilled a hole in the bottom of that board, inside the charger box, to slip the power cord through. To give the cord room below the stand, I added rubber feet.

I cut two narrow strips of wood an inch or so shorter than my base board was wide, one a half-inch tall and one about a quarter-inch. I glued these strips parallel to one another, about an eighth of an inch farther apart than my phone was thick, and clamped them in place until the glue dried. Now I can rest my phone, in landscape orientation, in the gap between them, and it stays upright at a slight angle.

A pencil holder

This last piece was just for fun. I had some scraps left over, so I used those as pencil holders for either side of the charging box. My box is about 1.5 inches narrower than the stand’s base board, so there’s a ¾-inch gap on either side. I cut two pieces of scrap wood to that same ¾ inches wide and tall, and then cut two 4-inch long strips. I glued these to each side, then drilled three ⅜-inch holes into each one, about an inch deep. This is the perfect size to hold a pencil or regular ballpoint pen.

Make it your own

What I love about this stand design is how simple it is, yet how versatile. I’m sure there are 100 other modifications you can make to meet your specific needs. Wireless chargers, LED lights, mouse and controller holders, key rings, drawers, and even a clock are all features I could see adding relatively easily. Go forth and be creative. I know I’ll make more of these, with all new features to control my personal brand of desk chaos.

The post Start organizing your chaotic, messy desk with this DIY headphone stand appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

A table saw is the cornerstone of most woodworking shops, and it’s well-known for making rip cuts, bevels, and crosscuts. What many people don’t know is how versatile this tool can be with the help of jigs and sleds to enable more advanced cuts. There are all kinds of sleds you can make for your saw, but a great one to build early in your carpentry career is a jointing sled.  

But before we get started, understand that both the level method and a DIY jointer sled will only properly joint the edge of a board that already has a flat face. There are several methods to flatten the face of a board, including a planer sled, a router sled, or just buying pre-flattened wood.  

How to joint wood without a jointer by using a level

Using a level is a fast, easy way to edge joint boards on your table saw, no building required. All you’ll need is a level that’s longer than the board you’re trying to joint. I use my 4-foot level most of the time. 

1. Place your level on the table saw, flush against the fence. Then place the board you want to joint on the table saw, against the level, with the flattened face down. If one edge is concave, put that against the level. Your goal is to keep the wood from moving or rocking at all—you can use a hand plane or sander to shape the wood as needed.  

2. Set your fence to the proper width. Once the board is stable, adjust your fence so the saw blade will trim off a sliver of the edge of the board—typically about a blade’s-width, though it ultimately depends on how bowed or misshapen the wood you’re starting with is. Before jointing, place the jig and board at the front and then at the back of the blade—as if you’d finished cutting—to ensure that you’ll trim the full length of the board. Any uncut section of the edge won’t actually be flat, and you’ll need to make a second cut to fix it.

• Warning: Only raise your saw blade so its teeth barely extend above the top of the board you’re cutting. This will help protect you in case you slip and come in contact with the blade. 

How to make a jointer sled

Stats

• Time: 1 to 2 hours
• Cost: $40 to $60
• Difficulty: easy

Materials

• 1 quarter-sheet of ½-inch plywood (can be larger if you need a longer sled)
• Wood glue
• ¾-inch wood screws
• Toggle clamps

Tools

• Drill 
• Clamps

Instructions

1. Cut two 4-foot-long strips of plywood. The width of each can be whatever works best for you. My sled is 10 inches wide, so I cut a 10-inch-wide strip for the base of the sled. The wider this strip, the wider the boards you can joint. I cut the other strip—the riser board that will hold the toggle clamps—to about 5 inches wide, but you can make it any width that will still fit your toggle clamps. My dimensions can joint 3- to 9-inch boards pretty easily.

2. Glue the 5-inch board to the top of the 10-inch board. First, line the narrower board up with the right edge and overhang it a 16th of an inch or so. Don’t skip this overhang, as it will help you square the sled in the next step. Try to keep it fairly consistent across the full length of the sled. Use a few clamps to hold it in place.

3. Screw the riser board in place on top of the base board with ¾-inch wood screws. Keep the clamps on until the glue is dry enough to work with according to the manufacturer’s instructions, typically about two hours  

4. Trim both long edges of the sled. This is where the overhang comes into play. Adjust your fence to cut a blade’s-width of wood off of your sled. Then run the sled through with the doubled-up edge against the fence. The overhang will ride along the fence, and you’ll cut the other edge perfectly parallel to it. Once you’ve finished, turn the board 180 degrees so the freshly cut edge is against the fence. Adjust the saw to trim off another blade’s-width of material, and cut the double-stacked edge so that the top and bottom piece of plywood are flush. This will ensure you don’t have any variation on that edge, which will keep your future cuts perfectly straight. 

5. Screw the toggle clamps in place. How many you use depends on the length of the boards you plan to cut. I started with three, spaced somewhat evenly, 6 inches from each end. Screw these onto the riser board, flush with the left edge so they reach as far as possible. You can always add or move the clamps if you need to in the future.

[Related: Tune up your table saw the right way]

6. (Optional) Add another set of raised toggle clamps. I found that there were a few boards I wanted to joint that my initial set of clamps were too short for. To solve this, I added another set screwed into plywood risers. All I did was cut a few scraps of ¾-inch plywood, glue them to the double-stacked board, and screw the new toggle clamps to the new risers. This second set lets me joint boards that are about 2.5 inches thick, up from 1.5 inches or so.   

7. Start jointing. To use the sled, set your table saw to the same width as the sled. Then clamp the board you would like to joint onto the sled, with the flat face down and the left edge overhanging the blade. Finally, run it through your table saw, making sure to keep the right edge of the sled tight against the fence the whole time.  

If the board you are jointing is wider than the base of the sled, move the fence to the right until the blade is lined up with where you want to trim. Check that you will cut along the full length of the board by lowering the blade to less than half an inch and running the sled over with the power off.  

The post Two ways to joint wood on your table saw—no jointer needed appeared first on Popular Science.

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When Klondike announced it was discontinuing the Choco Taco, fans of this 39-year-old ice cream truck staple inundated the Good Humor-Breyers brand with social media comments spanning the entire five stages of grief. And now there are rumors it could be making a comeback. Bah—ignore all that noise. Ascend beyond it.

One of the benefits of DIY is that you’re not beholden to the whims of a corporate bottom line. You can do whatever you want, and that includes making your own Mexican cuisine-inspired ice cream treat. Whether you actually enjoyed the Choco Taco or thought its waffle cone shell got a little too soggy too fast, you can absolutely slap together a tasty homemade version, and we can help you get started.

Stats

• Time: 1 to 2 hours
• Difficulty: easy
• Yield: about 12

Ingredients

Waffle cone

• ⅔ cup of flour
• ¼ teaspoon of salt
• ½ cup of brown sugar
• 2 eggs
• ¼ cup of unsalted butter
• ¼ cup of milk
• 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract
• (Optional) cooking oil (or cooking spray)

Chocolate sauce

• ½ cup of heavy cream
• ½ cup of chocolate chips (or baking chocolate)
• ½ cup of peanuts (or any other nut)

Ice cream

• 1 pint of whatever you want (or make your own)

Tools

• Measuring cups and spoons
• Small bowl
• Whisk
• Medium bowl
• Small, microwave-safe bowl (or small pot)
• Cutting board
• Chef’s knife
• Waffle cone maker, pizzelle maker, or krumkake maker (or just a frying pan and a spatula)
• Spoon
• Cooling rack
• Wooden spoon (or anything with a long, cylindrical handle)
• Two sturdy objects to elevate the spoon off the counter
• Small saucepan
• Heat-safe bowl
• Freezer-safe container with a lid

• Note: You can use whatever waffle cone recipe you like (we used one from The Spruce), but don’t use waffle batter. Belgian waffles and their brethren include baking powder, which is a leavening agent. This white stuff will puff up any batter, and you don’t want that if you’re trying to make a crisp cone.

2. Combine the brown sugar and eggs in a separate, larger bowl. This is the bowl you’ll be making your batter in, so make sure it’s big enough.

3. Dump the salty flour into the sweet eggs, and mix it all up. When you’re done, all the ingredients you’ve worked with so far should be combined into a fairly thick, tan batter.

4. Melt the butter. Slice the butter into half-inch-thick slabs to maximize the surface area exposed to heat and plop them into a small, microwave-safe bowl. If you don’t have a microwave, you can use a small pot on your stove. Melting will take about 30 seconds in the microwave and maybe a couple minutes on the stove.

5. Add the milk, vanilla extract, and melted butter to the batter. You don’t have to do it in this exact order, but we did, to minimize the admittedly small likelihood that the hot butter would start cooking the eggs. Mix everything together until you have a smooth batter again.

6. Prepare your cooking surface. You don’t technically need a waffle cone maker, a pizzelle maker, or a krumkake maker to craft homemade Choco Tacos, but we think each of those tools will make the job easier. If you have one, get it set up according to its instructions.

That said, we scoffed at the rules of waffle cone making and cooked our waffle cone taco shells with nothing more than a frying pan, a spatula, and a dream. While they tasted like waffle cones, they lacked the crisp crunch of a cone and were a little like stiff pancakes. But that didn’t matter much in the end—to us, at least.

7. Set up a “waffle clothesline.” Hot off the press (or stove), your waffle cones will be malleable, but they won’t stay that way for long. You also won’t want to waste time holding them in the shape of a taco shell until they’re completely cool. We found the best solution was to build a sort of waffle clothesline out of a wooden spoon placed between two sturdy containers, but you can use anything that achieves the same effect.

8. Cook a waffle cone. If you’re using a press of some kind, spoon in a nice circle of batter in any size you want, close the lid, and cook it for one to two minutes, or however long your machine’s instructions suggest. Easy.

When your dollop of batter has turned pale and you can see bubbles across its surface (about 30 seconds), flip it over and immediately press down on it with your spatula. This will simulate the pressure you’d get in a mechanical press, but won’t duplicate it. Move your spatula every five seconds or so to ensure an even thickness. After another 30 seconds, take the waffle cone off the pan and put it on a cooling rack, paper towel, or plate.

• Warning: If you’re working on a stovetop, you may find your hand gets hot from being close to the pan so frequently. Take breaks or wear an oven mitt to mitigate any potential pain.

9. Mold your cone into a taco shell and hang it up to cool. When your cone is cool enough to handle, bend it into the desired shape and press it over the handle of your wooden spoon or whatever you’re using as a “clothesline.”

• Warning: If you wait too long to bend the cone, it will crack, so it may take you a few tries to find the right timing.

10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 until you’ve used all your batter. You may find your clothesline is too small to hold all your taco shells, but each one should hold its shape fairly well after a minute or two of cooling. You can then move them from the hang-dry line to a traditional cooling rack, but you may need to place them upside down so they retain their shape. You should have around a dozen when you’re done.

11. Chop your nuts. Traditionally, the Choco Taco contains peanuts, but we used cashews. Put your chosen nuts on a cutting board and use a knife to chop them into fairly evenly sized pieces.

[Related: 4 simple ways to upgrade your boring DIY cutting boards]

12. Make the chocolate sauce. We made a simple chocolate ganache, which is just equal parts heavy cream and chocolate. You can use any chocolate you like, even chocolate chips. You could even attempt to temper some chocolate, but only if you’re feeling really fancy.

Pour the cream into a saucepan over medium heat and let it heat up. Meanwhile, dump the chocolate into a heat-proof bowl. When the cream starts to bubble around the edges (about a minute or two), pour it into the chocolate and mix it all together until you’ve got a smooth chocolate sauce.

13. Add the nuts to the chocolate sauce. Just dump them in and mix everything together.

14. (Optional) Make ice cream. If you’re a member of the “go big or go home” crowd, maybe you want to make your own ice cream for these. We tried, using our well-tested recipe for hand-churned ice cream in a bag, but it didn’t make enough, so we bought a pint at the grocery store. Sometimes you have to know your limits. The original Choco Taco was stuffed with fudge ripple ice cream, but you can use anything you like.

15. Fill the tacos with ice cream. When your shells are cool enough to hold their shape (we waited about an hour), start assembling your homemade dessert. First, scoop the ice cream into a shell, and place it into whatever container you plan to freeze your DIY Choco Tacos in. Keep going until all the shells are full of ice cream and they’re lined up nicely in the container. This will keep them from falling over when you add the chocolate.

16. Add the chocolate. Spoon the chocolate sauce onto each taco, using as much as you want.

17. Freeze. Let the desserts sit in the freezer for at least an hour or two (we waited three) before eating them. While you can eat them immediately, freezing them will ensure the chocolate hardens and everything melds together like a Choco Taco you’d get out of a package.

The post Good news: Making your own Choco Taco is totally possible appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

A gloriously vibrant, thriving plant (or several) can really transform a space and help make a house a home. In the wrong spot, though, they can be a nuisance—no one likes to carefully shimmy past the delicate leaves of a Hosta to get from the couch to the fridge. Look up: are you using that ceiling space? If not, you should try hanging your plants.

Stats

• Time: 1 to 2 hours (plus a few more for drying)
• Material cost: $30 to $50
• Difficulty: Easy

Materials

• 1 (6-foot-long) 1-by-10-inch) pine board
• ¼-inch rope
• 1 S-hook
• Wood stain of any color
• Spar urethane (for outdoor hangers) or polyurethane (for indoor ones)

Tools

• Miter saw (or circular saw)
• Table saw
• Crosscut sled
• Drill
• 5/16-inch drill bit
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs (80-, 120-, and 220-grit)
• Measuring tape
• Pencil
• (Optional) super glue

Instructions

1. Cut your shelves close to their final length. Using your miter saw or circular saw, cut your board to the approximate final length of your shelves, about an inch longer than the finished size will be. Because I was aiming for 8.5-inch square shelves, I cut these initial pieces to 9.5 inches long. This extra length will allow you to square the shelves by cutting off the excess.

2. Trim your shelves to a consistent width. This isn’t strictly necessary, but I’ve found that store-bought boards are rarely as clean as they should be, so I always trim them down to make the edges a bit nicer. Take about a blade’s-width of material off of one edge of the board with your table saw, then flip the shelf around and trim the opposite edge down to your desired final width.

• Note: You can achieve a far more flat and square edge if you use a jointer or a jointer sled on a table saw. But for free-floating shelves like this, you really don’t need the wood to be perfectly square, so all that’s probably not worth the effort if you bought finished wood. 

3. Cut your shelves to their final length. Using your crosscut sled, cut a blade’s-width of wood off of one end of the board to create a right angle to the edge you trimmed on the table saw. Then flip the board over, keeping the same edge against the crosscut fence, and trim the other end to its final length. If you don’t trim both ends, your shelves may be pretty far out of square.

4. Measure and mark where you want your rope to go through each corner of the shelf.. I positioned mine ¾ of an inch from each edge of the board. This left me enough space around the hole that the wood wouldn’t be likely to crack or break.

5. Drill holes for the ropes. Drill a 5/16-inch hole at each mark to hold the ropes. 

• Pro tip: To keep the wood from splintering (tear-out) when the bit punches through the bottom of the shelf, drill halfway through the board from the top, then flip it over and drill a matching hole from the bottom. You can line these two holes up by first drilling a very small pilot hole all the way through the board with, say, a 1/16-inch bit, and using that hole to center your 5/16-inch bit.

6. Sand your shelves smooth. Once you’ve cut the boards to their final dimensions, sand them with a random orbital sander or a sanding block. Start with 80-grit sandpaper, then move to 120-grit. Because this project will be polyurethaned and people are unlikely to touch or handle it much, I stopped at 120-grit, but you can go higher if your chosen stain or finish recommends a different final grit.  

As the last sanding step, take a piece of 220-grit paper and gently rub it over all the sharp edges by hand, rounding them over. This serves two purposes. First, it keeps people from getting poked or sliced if they touch or bump into the hanging shelves. Second, rounding over those sharp edges and corners reduces the chances that the wood will splinter or break.

7. Stain and finish your shelves. Apply whatever stain you decide to use, according to the manufacturer’s instructions. I chose a dark mahogany because I thought the contrast with the lighter rope would look good.  However, choose whatever matches your aesthetic.

Once the stain is dry, apply a protective finish. I used spray-on polyurethane because we planned to hang ours indoors. If your shelves will live outside, consider using spar urethane instead—it will hold up better to the sun and the weather.

8. Cut two equal lengths of rope. I wanted approximately 10 to 12 inches between the two shelves and between the upper shelf and the hanger. However, the knots take up a lot of rope, so you can’t just snip off 24 inches and call it a day. I added 2 inches for the bottom shelf knot, another 2 inches for the top shelf knot, and then 6 inches for the hanger knot. Then I added a couple more inches to be safe.

I wanted a two-shelf planter with the bottom shelf about 24 inches from the hook used to hang it, meaning each of the two supporting ropes would need to be about 35 inches long, running from one corner, up to the ceiling, and back down to the adjacent corner. So I cut each rope to 70 inches to have enough to tie the knots. 

9. Tie loops in the middle of each rope.. These loops will attach to the S-hook hanging from your ceiling, and there are probably a dozen different knots you can use. I used a basic mid-rope overhand knot with a loop. This knot is simple to tie and relatively easy to position where you want it on the rope. Tie one loop in the exact center of each rope, keeping the loops approximately the same size. This will make it easier to level the shelves later.

10. Tie the shelf knots and slide on the shelves. With the hanging loops tied, position the shelf support knots. I measured 12 inches from the bottom of the loop knot on each of the four lengths extending from the loops (two on each rope) and marked that with a black permanent marker. Then I inserted the ropes into the holes of the top shelf and pulled them through until the shelf was above those black marks. Again, the strands of each rope should thread through adjacent corners, not the diagonals.  

With the shelf sitting above the marks, I tied a basic overhand knot in each strand. The trick is to position the knot just below the black mark on each rope. If you leave the knot loose, you can slide it up and down the rope until each knot is at exactly the same height. Then tighten the knots so they don’t slip, and push the shelf down to rest on top of them. 

11. Repeat step 10 with the bottom shelf. While you do this, measure from the bottom of the top shelf, leaving room for knots at the ends of the rope. In my case, the distance that made the most sense with the rope remaining was 11 inches.

12. Install mounting hardware in the ceiling or wall. There are numerous products that will allow you to hang an S-hook, but the simplest is an eye bolt with a diameter wide enough to fit the hook. Pre-drill a hole in the ceiling, ideally into a ceiling joist or the casing of a bay window for strength, then screw the eye bolt into place.

13. Hang your shelf up and adjust it as needed. Once the knots are all secure, hang the entire unit from the S-hook by the rope loops. Loosen and move the knots up and down as necessary until everything sits level. When you’re satisfied, add your plants.

• Pro tip: If you don’t ever plan to adjust the planter, add a dab of super glue to each knot when everything is done. This will ensure the knot remains in place over time, though it also means you likely won’t ever be able to untie it.

The post These DIY hanging plant shelves will make your home feel like a forest canopy appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Best overall		Microsoft PowerPoint		SEE IT	Sometimes the easy answer is the right one. PowerPoint is versatile, easy to use, and doesn’t cost too much.
Best for professionals		Canva		SEE IT	Canva makes it easy to make presentations and all kinds of simple, but striking content.
Best for Zoom		Prezi		SEE IT	Prezi lets you build presentations in creative ways, including a format made specifically for video calls.

Whether you’re a student or a working professional, everybody has to make presentations from time to time and that usually involves presentation software. But when you’re frantically Googling around to refresh your PowerPoint knowledge, it’s only natural to wonder what is really the best presentation software out there. Yes, everybody knows that Microsoft’s the biggest player in the slideshow game but there are actually a lot of alternatives to explore. If you expand your horizons, you may find another app that makes more sense for you. Expand your office app horizons and see how the best presentation software can make your job a little easier.

• Best overall: Microsoft PowerPoint
• Best for professionals: Canva
• Best for Zoom: Prezi
• Best for Mac: Apple Keynote 
• Best for students: Beautiful.ai
• Best budget: Google Slides

How we chose the best presentation software

As a journalist with over a decade of experience, I know how to present information to all sorts of audiences effectively and efficiently. Over the years, I’ve worked with a variety of clients to craft copy for presentations, as well as the slideshows themselves. I’ve used the best software in the business, as well as quite a lot of the bad stuff, so I know what will work for you and your needs. 

In making this list, I relied on my own firsthand experience with presentation software, as well as consulting professional tutorials and critical reviews. I also personally created a number of sample slideshows using prebuilt templates and custom layouts of my own in order to put the programs through their paces. I used both the stalwart software suites that everyone knows, as well as a number of lesser-known alternatives that have emerged over the past few years. If an impressive new program hits the block, we will update this list accordingly once we get some hands-on time with it.

Things to consider when buying presentation software

There has been an explosion of presentation software over the past few years, and each of the program’s developers has their own pitch to lure people away from PowerPoint. The most important things to consider when choosing presentation software will vary from person to person. A small business owner putting together a professional presentation with original branding may need different tools to make an appealing pitch, versus a student building a last-minute slideshow for a group project to present the results of their research in Econ class.

There are a wide variety of bells and whistles that presentation building programs boast as their killer features, including brand kit integration, easy social media sharing options, offline access, seamless collaboration, AI suggestions, and analytics. These extra features will seem very helpful to enterprise customers, but the average person should realistically prioritize more traditional factors like ease-of-use, customizability, and cost. There are, however, a few elements that every single person who uses presentation software needs, so let’s walk through the fundamentals.

Ease of use

No one wants to spend hours learning how to make a basic slideshow. While all of these programs take time to master, some of them are easier to pick up quickly than others. An intuitive piece of software grabs your attention and allows you to perform basic actions like adding slides and assets without time-consuming tutorials. The more professional-grade programs out there might take a little more time to master, but they’re rarely difficult to use.

Prebuilt templates

The number one thing that you want from a presentation software is a good-looking final product, and templates help you achieve that goal quickly and easily. All of the competitive presentation software suites out there have a library of pre-built templates that let you plug in information quickly. Quality and quantity separate the good programs from the great ones, though. Some apps have more templates than others, and some templates look better than others. On top of that, some programs lock their best templates behind a premium subscription, which leaves you relying on the same basic structures over and over. 

The truly professional-grade software also includes a selection of prebuilt art assets to help you bring a personal touch to the presentation. If a program doesn’t have an impressive set of templates, it isn’t worth using.

Customizability

While most people want to start building their presentations with a template, you need to change some things around if you want to keep things looking fresh. Professionals, in particular, will probably want to customize every aspect of their slideshows, from the color of the background to the exact pixel position of images. This obviously increases the amount of time it takes to craft a presentation, so it’s important that the systems for making those tweaks are intuitive and easy to use. Not every user is going to need the level of customizability, but it’s definitely something worth considering.

Who’s it for?

Every presenter needs to build a slideshow for their audience. They should probably ask that question when they pick which presentation software to use as well, as it can help determine what software they should use. Students might need the expansive collaboration tools of certain platforms but might not need the pinpoint design controls in others. While the presentation software listed below can all make a great slideshow with enough time and effort, your own use case and the intended audience will have a big impact on your choice.

Cost & affordability

Very few presentation builders have a simple, one-time price tag. Most operate on a subscription model, where you can buy a month’s use for a certain amount, or save money by buying a year at a time. A few are free, though many appear to only offer a free trial or stripped-down version that will allow you to put together something basic before quite literally buying in.

If you’re looking to build just one or two presentations a year, it’s probably best to stick to one of the free options. However, if you have to build slideshows on a regular basis, it’s probably worth sinking your money into a subscription to the program you really like.

Generally speaking, as you might expect, the more impressive and in-depth software costs more than the more traditional fare. However, because many of the most popular programs in the space (such as Microsoft PowerPoint) come as part of a suite, you will need to weigh the benefits of not only the presentation software but also the other programs that come along with it. If you’re a die-hard Microsoft Word user, for example, you’re already paying for the Microsoft Office suite, but the calculus gets more complicated if you prefer Google Docs.

The best presentation software: Reviews & Recommendations

By now, you probably have a good idea of what you should be looking for in presentation software, so now we’ll get into the interesting part. As mentioned above, we’ve broken down our picks based on a few common use cases, as well as the criteria we mentioned above. Regardless of which one you decide on, all of these programs are powerful tools that can produce a slick slideshow with a little time and effort, and you’d be well served by any of them.

Best overall: Microsoft PowerPoint

MobiSystems

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Why it made the cut: Whether you’re a broke student or a busy professional, Microsoft PowerPoint can do whatever you need. It’s also reasonably priced.

Specs

• Platforms: Windows, macOS, iOS, Android, Web
• Suite or standalone: Microsoft Office 365 Suite
• Special features: Designer, MS Office integration
• Free version: Yes

Pros

• Well-known interface imitated by competitors
• Powerful and accessible
• Good templates
• Part of a popular software suite

Cons

• Slight learning curve

Even after testing more than a dozen programs, Microsoft PowerPoint remains the go-to presentation software for most people. Setting the industry standard, it offers great templates, an accessible interface, an impressive library of prebuilt art assets, and plenty of tools for building a slick slideshow. It also supports real-time collaboration, offline editing, and third-party content embedding. At $70 a year, PowerPoint is significantly cheaper than most of its competitors and it’s part of Microsoft Office, a software suite that most companies pay for and workers can’t live without. 

Of course, it isn’t perfect. PowerPoint makes it very easy to make a basic presentation, but it will likely take you longer to make something that looks polished and professional in PowerPoint than with design-forward programs like Canva or Prezi. Even top-flight presentations are achievable, though, in a reasonable timeframe. PowerPoint might not be the best presentation program for every situation, but it’s certainly the best for the average person.

Best for professionals: Canva

Canva

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Why it made the cut: Canva creates beautiful, professional-grade presentations faster than its rivals, and it’s easier to use than most.

Specs

• Platforms: Web, Windows, iOS, Android
• Suite or standalone: Standalone
• Special features: Amazing templates, very customizable
• Free version: Yes

Pros

• Excellent free version
• Extremely easy to use
• Makes beautiful presentations fast
• Eye-catching templates

Cons

• Harder-to-use advanced features
• Limited offline use

If you need to make a striking business presentation in an hour, Canva is absolutely the software for you. Designed from the ground up for business professionals who don’t want to have to use another program (i.e., Photoshop or GIMP) to create visually compelling content, Canva delivers on this promise in spades. 

Canva’s gorgeous templates are the best of any of the programs we tested, and its free version is far more robust than you’d expect for a costless trial. Unlike many of these other programs, it creates virtually any marketing material you can imagine, including videos, logos, social media posts, and even resumes. It also includes splashy features that most people won’t use, like brand kit support and easy sharing to social media.

Canva’s simplicity has drawbacks, too, though. It can be a bit difficult to get it to make complicated charts, tables, or diagrams, and it lacks the familiar (but clunky) customizability of PowerPoint. However, if you’re looking to make the most beautiful presentation you can, Canva is a great choice for your business.

Best for Zoom: Prezi

Prezi

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Why it made the cut: Prezi is a strong program that structures its basic features in a completely different manner than its competitors. It also has very good Zoom integration.

Specs

• Platforms: Web
• Suite or standalone: Standalone
• Special features: Zoom integration, unique structure
• Free version: No (Two-week free trial)

Pros

• More creative structure than competitors
• Intuitive interface
• Expansive feature set

Cons

• Doesn’t work for everyone
• Must pay more for advanced features

If you’re really tired of the straight-line structure mandated by other presentation software, Prezi gives you a little more freedom to build things your way. Prezi uses a topic-oriented form that allows you to easily string your ideas in an order that makes sense to you. The basic idea behind Prezi is that you create bubbles of individual content, and then you thread a path through those ideas to create a presentation with a physical form that’s more enticing and conversational than just a linear succession of slides.

While this unique approach makes Prezi a worthy alternative on its own, the app also boasts plenty of specialized features you’d want in a premium program, including a large asset library, social media integration, and collaboration support. 

Though any presentation software can work with Zoom via the screen-share function, Prezi features a very useful video call-focused mode, Prezi Video, which allows you to build a presentation as an overlay that appears in your Zoom window so people can see you and your slides.

Prezi’s freeform structure isn’t going to work for everyone, but if Powerpoint feels stifling, it might open new doors for you.

Best for Mac: Keynote

Apple

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Why it made the cut: Apple’s answer to PowerPoint might not be as popular as its competitor, but it’s still pretty powerful in its own right.

Specs

• Platforms: macOS, iOS, Web
• Suite or Standalone: Apple Software Suite
• Special features: iCloud support, multiple formats
• Free version: Yes (with an Apple account)

Pros

• Familiar to most Mac users
• Better asset library than most
• No-frills feature set

Cons

• Lacks unique selling points

If you’re a Mac user, you’ve probably at least considered using Keynote to put a presentation together. While all of the other programs on this list work on a Mac as web apps, Keynote is the only app made specifically for the platform.

Like PowerPoint, Keynote is a wide-reaching program designed to help anyone make a sharp-looking presentation, from students to professionals. It has a more robust feature set than other PowerPoint competitors–including better default templates, a bigger asset library, and desktop support. It doesn’t quite have the versatility of enterprise-facing apps like Canva, but you can put together a great-looking slideshow for school or a recurring meeting.

On the other hand, it can be a little tricky to pick up: The interface isn’t quite as intuitive as Google Slides, which is also free. If you have access to both, you get a choice: Build a more striking presentation in Keynote, or put something together quickly in Slides.

Best for students: Beautiful.ai

Beautiful.ai

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Why it made the cut: Beautiful.ai’s AI-powered presentations allow you to make a sharp slideshow in no time flat, and its generous free trial gives time to try it out.

Specs

• Platforms: Web
• Suite or standalone: Standalone
• Special features: AI integration
• Free version: No (Two-week free trial)

Pros

• Clean interface
• Modern features
• Simple and effective

Cons

• Expensive for what it is
• Limited assets and templates

Looking to build a clean, modern presentation in as little time as possible? Beautiful.ai uses AI to help you build a visually stunning presentation in no time flat. While it’s less of a household name than our other picks, it’s the choice of many tech companies for its uncluttered interface, eye-catching templates, and overall no-fuss approach. 

Compared to PowerPoint or Canva, Beautiful.ai does not have a rich feature set or an infinite variety of template options. What the content library lacks in volume, it makes up for in style, though. Its appealing, elegant content elements lend themselves to clean, modern presentations. More importantly, the program’s AI assistant knows how to use those assets. It automatically tailors your slideshow’s design to fit the information you want to present, so you’ll wind up with something thoughtfully prepared before you know it.

Best budget: Google Slides

Google

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Why it made the cut: Google Slides is not only an excellent presentation program—it’s also one of the only ones actually free with no strings attached.

Specs

• Platforms: Web, iOS, Android
• Suite or standalone: Google Workspace
• Special features: Easy collaboration, Google integration
• Free version: Yes

Pros

• Free for anyone with a Google account
• Familiar interface
• Easy to share and collaborate
• Decent templates

Cons

• Somewhat basic in functionality
• Clunky for some users

When it comes to software, there’s “free to use,” and then there’s free. Most of the software on this list offers either a restricted free mode or a time-limited trial. Google Slides is actually free, fully free, for another with a Google account. And it holds its own, even compared to its premium competitors.

Google Slides feels like a simplified version of PowerPoint. It’s a little easier to learn the basics, but also offers fewer templates, screen transitions, and content. It also lacks a built-in asset library to fill dead space, though the program’s Google Drive integration makes it easy to add your own. Like most Google programs, it also supports add-ons that give it enhanced features, like the ability to solve equations within the slideshow.

If you’re looking to make an extremely sharp presentation, Google Slides will take a bit more effort than most. If you need to make a basic slideshow and you grew up on earlier versions of PowerPoint, you’ll feel right at home using Slides.

FAQs

Final thoughts on the best presentation software

While everyone wants to use the best program for the job, the truth is that all presentation builders have a lot in common with each other. If you’re familiar with one, it often makes sense to stay put. Despite all the similarities, it can take some time to learn a new system. If you’re constrained and frustrated, or are using presentation software for the first time, you should consider a wide range of options beyond PowerPoint.

Though alternatives like Beautiful.ai, Canva, or (especially) Prezi cost a bit more, they each have strong features that may work better for your purposes. That said, sometimes the most popular presentation software options are the best. If you don’t have specific expectations or need to clear a high bar for design, PowerPoint and free options like Google Slides should work well, and have the benefit of wide adoption in corporate workplaces.

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Best Overall		Adobe Illustrator		SEE IT	Industry-leading design tools featuring a powerful, though expensive vector editor.
Best Free		Squarespace Logo Maker		SEE IT	Free web-based logo maker with lots of great icons from Noun Project.
Best For Beginners		Canva		SEE IT	Lots of discrete web-based tools that unlock with investment and are great for any design task you’ll run across.

So you’ve got your concept, you know what you want the brand image to say, maybe you already have a set of loose styles worked out: saffron and burgundy with a curling serif font or a bold paprika-red with sans-serif type. Now it’s time to make ideas into identity. The best logo design software gives you the digital tools you need to hone in on branding that will stand out in the marketplace, whether you’re a new business owner looking to save money with a DIY logo job or a digital creator adding logo design to your skill set.

Top logo design software has the tools you’ll need to adjust all aspects of a logo, whether it’s a simple wordmark, a unique hand-illustrated icon, an abstract symbol, or some combination of elements. Most software will allow you to subtly work type, adjusting the curl in a “Q,” or play with how a capital “Y” intersects with a horizontal iconographic stroke. In the best software you’ll then be able to detail the color palette, apply the logo to different design assets, and ready your files for print, web, and beyond. Most software for logos uses a vector format that can expand and contract in size without losing quality, but some will allow you to bring raster art into the equation as well, incorporating photos and digitally painted illustrations into the mix. 

There are a lot of elements that go into good logo design software and, because of this, some design platforms are easier to master than others. Some software will cost you hundreds of dollars in subscription fees and require months of practice, yet will justify that investment by providing the tools to create truly unique designs. Others are made for the beginner and provide simple tools for creating logos. Some even use algorithms and artificial intelligence to help you—delivering a computer-generated design that’s easily customized to fit the aesthetic of your business. If you’re looking for a good logo, the best logo design software is out there for you, whatever your skill level.

• Best overall: Adobe Illustrator
• Best for beginners: Canva
• Best for 3D logos: Affinity Designer
• Best for icons: Procreate
• Best free: Squarespace Logo Maker

How we chose the best logo design software

There are a lot of different logo design software packages out there and which one is the best for you will largely depend on your goals, your skill level, and your commitment to learning necessary tools. It was important to me to include programs representing a diverse array of skill levels on this list. As a trained designer, illustrator, and artist, I featured my favorite logo design tools here. I also went through and tested multiple software packages that I know by reputation, comparing and contrasting their various benefits. I ranked my choices based on a few criteria:

Ease of use is one of the first qualities anyone looks for when they’re considering adopting a new software package. Generally, the most powerful logo design suites are also the hardest to learn, but easier suites can still deliver suitable toolsets. This list covers some of the easiest beginner-friendly suites as well as some of the more rigorous design industry standards.

Scalability is very important in logo designs. Most logo software uses a vector format. Vector art uses a file type that can expand or contract in size without losing detail. Raster formats, on the other hand, create images in maps of pixels that can only be expanded so much before they lose quality and become obviously pixelated. Vector art is superior to pixel art in situations where a design needs to be scaled up or down to easily print on a business card, or the side of a building, and works a bit like a digital stencil. While vector tools are most important for logo design, some of the best logo design software also contains raster tools. 

Compatibility with other design software can be a major bonus. The Adobe Suite is famous for its compatibility from one software to another within the Adobe family. I highlighted how different software suites are compatible with other families of software wherever it was applicable. I also highlighted what common platforms each software suite works on, be they Windows, macOS, iPad, etc.

Detail can make a difference. Some of the software on this list offer simple design tools that are easy to grasp for beginners. Others allow you to descend deep into the grit of it all. The most powerful logo design software gives you absolute control of the details, even if learning the tools required to harness that power takes time. 

Things to consider before buying the best logo design software

Before you commit to a software package there are a few things to consider.

Trials

Many of the more expensive software for logo design offer free trials. It’s often a good idea to take advantage of these before you buy, as they can help you get a feel for whether the software meets your needs.

Student deals

If you’re already thinking about going back to school to brush up on some design skills, consider whether it will be worth waiting to buy your logo design software. More expensive packages will often give substantial student discounts. This can amount to real financial savings that will offset the cost of your education, as well as your software.

Learning support

Much of the best logo design software is used widely. When you’re trying and failing to achieve something in the software it’s useful to look for community guides. Many questions you might have about logo design software are easily answered on community forums or in YouTube videos.

Budget options

There are lots of great cheap or free software for logo design. While it might seem like you have to spend lots of money to get the pro-level design tools, great things are frequently achieved on a budget or free software package. If you’re on a budget don’t feel compelled to spend more than you need to.

The best logo design software: Reviews & Recommendations

Best overall: Adobe Illustrator

Adobe

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Why it made the cut: Whether you’re detailing the curves of an ampersand, drafting a custom favicon for a client’s website, or applying colors from a design stylebook to logo variations across a website, Adobe Illustrator has all the tools you need for professional-grade work. 

Specs

• Vector / Raster: Vector
• System: macOS, PC, Linux, iPad, more
• Price Structure: Monthly subscription

Pros

• Industry-leading tools for everything from drawing to 3D fonts
• Streamlined workflow segues with other Adobe apps, including Indesign and Photoshop
• Lots of support and community content

Cons

• Steep learning curve
• Expensive subscription

Yeah, the learning curve might make you feel like you’ve gone back to high school, but when you master Adobe Illustrator the results are indisputably professional. With industry-leading tools for all parts of the design process, Illustrator has everything you need for path editing, drawing, coloring, and creating 2D and 3D shapes. Use the detailed shape editor tools for creating icons, color them with custom swatches you’ve picked out using Adobe Color, brand that image with the custom type you tweaked in Illustrator, apply a gradient to your type, then carry all those assets with you as you finish the faux-gold digital mockup in Photoshop and take it to print in real gold with InDesign. It will also work on the iPad Pro with your Apple Pencil. It’s a lot of power and it’s all yours with Illustrator and the Adobe Creative Cloud.

Illustrator offers an incredible amount of power but it’s also not a thing most people can afford to keep around to casually play with. The program has a notoriously steep learning curve (though once you get it, you get it); it’s also expensive. The Adobe Suite seems to just keep going up in price. The multi-software plan is now quite heftily priced: one month of Adobe Suite is equivalent to the total cost of buying Affinity Designer (for good). That’s why it’s a good idea to be sure you want to invest the time and money into learning Adobe Illustrator before you buy. Luckily, you can get a free trial on the website. Still, if you’re serious about professional-grade logos with the illustration and type to support them, Illustrator (and maybe the whole Adobe Suite) is likely a justifiable business cost. 

Best for beginners: Canva

Canva

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Why it made the cut: Canva’s scaling price model and layers of tools make it both a newb-friendly logo editor for simple designs and a pro-grade powerhouse. 

Specs

• Vector / Raster: Raster, vector .svg with pro subscription
• System: Web-based service
• Price Structure: Free and paid plans

Pros

• Easy to use for beginners
• Powerful enough for pros
• Easy discrete design tools for lots of different applications

Cons

• Requires a paid subscription for many services including vector bounces
• Less agile for certain crossover tasks

Canva is ready for the internet … and made of it. This browser-based design suite has all the tools most people will need for design, whether they’re using one of its built-in templates for a web page, putting together menus, or designing a logo. Its basic free features make it a great starting place and its affordable pro features make it a great place to grow as a designer.

The logo designer is beginner ready. It starts you off with a few simple prompts, gives you a number of customizable layouts to choose from, and from there it’s easy to drag and drop in a wide range of icons, customize colors, and edit your fonts. The font book includes a number of familiar favorites from Google Fonts, including the much-loved Alegraya family. A wider font selection is unlocked with a pro subscription. After your icon and fonts are locked into place (and maybe animated), it’s easy to bounce out your file as a low-resolution image. Canva has newly unlocked .svg vector formats as well, but this is only available with a pro subscription.

Canva is a wonderful place to start and a solid place to grow. It doesn’t have as much room for the pro designer as premium options like the Adobe Suite, but design magic is worked in Canva all the time. With its affordable pricing for a pro subscription, easy web-based format, and free tools, Canva is a great option that shines especially brightly for those just starting out. 

Best for 3D logos: Affinity Designer

Affinity

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Why it made the cut: For a one-time price, Affinity designer offers a powerful workstation for logo designers, that harnesses industry-leading vector editor tools in tandem with raster support and 3D.

Specs

• Vector / Raster: Vector and raster
• System: macOS, Windows, iPad
• Price Structure: One-time fee

Pros

• Powerful vector tools for icons and fonts
• Raster elements can be incorporated in the app
• Solid 3D design elements
• One-time price
• Works well with Affinity Photo and Affinity Publisher

Cons

• Not as deep or feature-rich as Adobe suite

Released in 2014, the Affinity suite is a relative newcomer to the design software industry that aims squarely at taking on the Adobe monopoly. With lots of great tools and features that Adobe users will intuitively recognize, Affinity Designer isn’t a hard switch for Adobe users that have grown tired of Creative Cloud’s ever-swelling fees and costs. Much like Illustrator, Affinity gives you control over curves and outlines, enabling you to easily edit text, design the wordmark that your brand will be known for, or create vector-based illustrations to add to your webpage. Where the package pushes the envelope is in its simple combination of vector and raster control, allowing you to easily ornament your vector art with raster brushes, sleek digital painting, and pixel effects.

Because of its powerful set of tools, Affinity Designer is a great choice for any logo designer who’s looking to add unique hand-drawn elements, 3D letters, or complex shapes to their project’s stylebook. Compatible with iPad, it makes it easy to hand draw a shape with your Apple Pencil, then port it to your computer for more precise detailing. 

For a very moderate price, Affinity designer is probably the best value software package out there for a designer. It’s certainly not the cheapest, but its combination of decent ease of use, powerful tools that can compete with Adobe, and native raster support make it a supremely good investment. For the price of one month of Adobe CC, you’ll have the toolset contained in Affinity Designer forever. While it’s certainly not as cheap as a service like Tailor Brands, its vastly more powerful toolset makes it an undeniably great deal. 

Best for icons: Procreate

Procreate

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Why it made the cut: Famously great for digital painting, Procreate might not export vector art for logos but it’s still an excellent place to compose for iPad owners, even if you’ll need another app to finish your creations as vectors.

Specs 

• Vector / Raster: Raster
• System: iPad
• Price Structure: One-time fee

Pros 

• Impeccable and intuitive tools for digital painting and drawing
• Decent font support
• Very affordable one-time price (for iPad owners)
• Huge community with lots of user-created content

Cons

• No vector editors or .svg export
• Doesn’t play the best with cross-platform workflow for iPad uses with a Windows comp

Procreate isn’t explicitly for logo design and its glaring lack of vector exports might make some balk at its inclusion on this list. But with its exceptional digital drawing tools and intuitive brush control that will resonate with any designer who grew up using a pen and sketchpad, I stump for Procreate’s inclusion here—as a superpowered sketchbook composition space for any designer that works on iPad. 

Procreate is made for iPad. With an Apple Pencil, Procreate offers brush control that’s smooth as whipped butter. Its layer controls are intuitive and its selection, manipulation, transform, and transparency tools just work. Easily set a grid in 3-point perspective, draw a shape inside it, tool it, nudge it, select your shape and airbrush it, paint into it, then export it out. Whether you’re drawing shapes that will be finished in a vector editor, or simply sketching ideas, Procreate is one of the best software packages for any visual creator.

While Procreate won’t finish your designs in .svg or give you the precise curve controls you’ll get in a premium editor, these issues are mended when you bring another app into the fold. One of the easiest workflows out there for vectorizing your Procreate designs is the (independently worthy) free Vectornator app. Simply export your designs from Procreate as .jpg and use the auto-trace feature inside Vectornator. Once the system has turned your design into a vector, use Vectornator’s toolbox to tweak your vector art. If you’ll be working between PC or Mac and your iPad, then open-source Inkscape’s auto-trace feature offers another similarly simple way to bring your Procreate drawings into the vector space. 

All in all, Procreate is an excellent, intuitive drawing tool for the logo designer working on iPad, even if it doesn’t natively operate in vectors. It won’t take you all the way the same way that Affinity Designer will but—with its very price tag and a workflow that plays well with a number of free vector editor apps—it will still get you there … and you might even create something extra special along the way.

Best free: Squarespace Logo Maker

Squarespace

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Why it made the cut: Famous for its clean, easy-to-build websites, Squarespace’s simple logo builder is free to use, and creates nice logos with zero financial investment. 

Specs

• Vector / Raster: Raster
• System: Web-based service
• Price Structure: Free

Pros

• Free service
• Nice looking results
• Supremely easy to use

Cons

• Lacks that unique factor
• Uses icons from Noun Project which has its own legal terms

Websites: They always look best with a kicking logo. As a company that’s made its considerable reputation by delivering all-in-one website design tools, Squarespace knows that well. Presumably, that’s why they invested in offering the Squarespace Logo Maker to the public free of charge … aesthetics sell. 

The Squarespace Logo Maker is a super easy-to-use, free web-based logo maker that builds you a simple logo in your internet browser. Type in your brand’s name, fill out a few details, then quickly cycle through a massive library of icons. Once you select an icon (or choose not to), use the built-in type tool to play with your logo’s text. While the type tool only allows you to cycle through a few pretty standard fonts that will be familiar to any Squarespace user, the icon library takes advantage of the Noun Project’s vast trove of icons to give you some room to play. 

The logo service is free to use after you sign up for an account, and supplies you with a decently high-definition .png file, which can be vectorized in another free service like Inkscape (an amazingly powerful free vector editor that’s also worth a look). However, the icons are supplied by Noun Project and come with a bit of licensing gray area for certain uses. Noun Project’s website does offer great rates on icons, so if you plan to make millions off your free Squarespace logo it could be worth your time to pay Noun Project the few dollars they ask for full professional rights. All in all, this service is super easy to use and free, making it a great choice for a beginner, what it lacks is that wow factor that gives your brand extra cred. 

FAQs

Final thoughts on the best logo design software

The best logo design software comes with the toolset you’ll need to build a brand identity that people recognize and respect. A great logo sets the tone of your business. You might choose a wordmark, like the timeless Coca-Cola logo, or you might choose an icon aiming to emulate something like the ever-recognizable Twitter symbol. Either way, logo design software will help you get there. If you’re after a free service that will make the job easy, take a tour of the Squarespace Logo Maker, you’ll have a simple logo in under 10 minutes. If you want software that you can grow with, the web-based service Canva offers powerful tools for free and a reasonable subscription price will unlock more features to take your designs to the next level. Affinity Designer is worth a look for anyone who wants pro-level tools at a reasonable one-time price, and it offers a great vector/raster crossover space. Finally, Adobe Illustrator is always there for those who want the most serious tools for the job. 

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Making a basic cutting board is almost a rite of passage for new woodworkers because it’s a relatively easy project and quite forgiving of mistakes. After all, it’s designed to be cut and scratched, so if you miss a few spots while sanding or the final product isn’t perfectly square, it’s no big deal.

But making a simple, rectangular board can be boring, especially if you’re churning them out for sale, or as gifts. Before you make yet another bland block, think about incorporating one or more of these easy upgrades to start setting your work apart.

To start, use your table saw to cut a few strips of walnut the same length and height as your board, each around a quarter-inch wide. If you generally make face grain cutting boards, cut an inch-wide piece off of each long side of your existing cutting board, but don’t throw it away. Put the walnut strips along the freshly cut edges, then place the cutoff pieces back along the outside of the walnut and glue it all together. If you make edge grain boards, put the walnut strips in place near the outer edge during your regular glue-up process.  

If you’re looking to get really fancy, consider upgrading the walnut to padauk, purpleheart, zebrawood, or some combination. And you can vary the widths of the accent boards until you find a design you’re happy with. 

Once you’re feeling confident, you can even start to explore end grain, chaos, and woven boards, but those require much more work. 

You can also change up your edges with a router and the right bit. On smaller, thinner boards, I like to use a quarter-inch roundover bit and my palm router to create a rounded edge. You can also use a V bit to create a 45-degree bevel with the router, or simply use any other bit that strikes your fancy. Test out several different designs on a piece of scrap wood to find the one that looks best to you.

Install handles to turn a cutting board into a charcuterie board

Everyone likes to say “charcuterie,” so everyone must love charcuterie boards. You can turn many cutting boards into one of these serving trays simply by adding handles. If you have a router, you can route handles into the sides of the board like I did while making my bathtub tray. You can also route handles directly into the sides of the board, which is a bit more work but makes a more functional board because food can’t fall through the handle holes. 

If you make a lot of these, build a handle jig to position the holes rather than measuring every time. I made mine out of a piece of scrap half-inch plywood about 8 inches long. I drilled holes 3 inches apart and 1 inch inset from the edge of the board, then marked the exact center point between the two holes. To use the jig, I just mark the center of the cutting board, line up the centerline of my jig with that mark, and then mark the two hole positions. Perfect fit, every time.  

Essentially, all you do to make a juice groove is run the router along a straightedge, cutting the groove about half an inch in from the edge of the board. However, cutting a juice groove is much easier if you take the time to build a jig. Don’t try to cut the whole groove in one pass, either. Take shallow, ⅛-inch-or-so passes until you reach your desired depth. I typically make mine between ¼ and ⅜ inches deep, but this is another design choice you need to make for yourself. 

These ideas, of course, are just a starting place. Find the combination of looks, accents, and accessories that matches the aesthetic that you’re going for, and your cutting boards will never fall flat again.

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The average US household wastes 32 percent of its food, costing each family about $1,600 a year. While everyone can practice more responsible shopping and be better about eating ingredients or leftovers before they go bad, some of that waste, like fruit peels, can’t be avoided. Or so you may think.

Annually, the average American eats 13.4 pounds of bananas—our favorite fresh fruit. But since peels can comprise 35 percent of the fruit, a large portion of what we buy goes in the trash. Eating the peels could reduce a significant amount of food waste. And by the way, discarded food is the single largest category of material that ends up in municipal landfills, producing methane—a potent greenhouse gas—as it breaks down.

So why haven’t we been preparing banana peels, caramelizing them in sugar, adding them to smoothies, or frying them up in barbecue sauce? It seems Americans can’t seem to get over the ick factor—there are just some things we as a culture have deemed unfit for consumption. But if you’re open-minded enough to give banana peels a shot, we think these barbecue banana peel sandwiches are the perfect introduction.

First, choose the perfect bananas

Like with many dishes, ingredient selection is important. While you can toss very ripe or soft peels into banana bread or a smoothie, you’ll need to buy fruit that’s just underripe if you want a similar texture to pulled pork. The bananas should have tinges of green around their tops and bottoms, or at least be completely yellow and still firm. Soft, brown banana peels will get mushy and unpalatable when cooked.

Now, don’t do a 180 and waste the actual fruit: eat it as a pre-meal snack, make a fruit salad, whip up some banana pudding, or freeze some slices to use later.

Stats

• Time: 20 minutes (prep), 10 to 15 minutes (cooking)
• Material cost: $10 to $15
• Difficulty: Moderate

Ingredients

• 6 banana peels, scraped clean and shredded
• 4 hamburger buns
• 3/4 cup of water
• 1 tablespoon of olive oil
• 1/2 teaspoon of cumin
• 1 teaspoon of chili powder
• 1/2 teaspoon of ground pepper
• 1 teaspoon of garlic powder
• 1 teaspoon of liquid smoke
• 2 teaspoons of apple cider vinegar
• 1/2 tablespoon of brown mustard
• 2 tablespoons of soy sauce
• 1/2 cup of barbecue sauce, plus more to taste

Tools

• Sharp knife
• Spoon
• Fork
• Cutting board
• Medium (or large) pan with a lid
• Spatula (or flipper)

2. Shred the banana peels with a fork. Try to end up with thin strips similar to the size of pulled pork. Then, cut the strips into 2- to 3-inch-long pieces. It’ll take some elbow grease.

3. Make the sauce. In a bowl large enough to contain all the shreds, combine the water, olive oil, cumin, chili powder, pepper, garlic powder, liquid smoke, apple cider vinegar, mustard and soy sauce. Stir to mix.

6. Finish cooking. When the shreds are no longer crunchy, but not mushy, remove the lid and add the half-cup of barbeque sauce. Sauté the shreds and sauce for another 1 to 2 minutes, tasting and adding additional salt and sauce if desired.

7. Build your sandwiches. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the saucy shreds to hamburger buns. Top with pickles, coleslaw, lettuce, shredded carrots, or whatever your heart desires, and enjoy immediately.

That’s what we call a cheap, plant-based meal that reduces food waste, saves money, and tastes great doing it. Just don’t expect there to be leftovers.

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A good table saw is one of the first tools you should buy when you begin woodworking. These saws enable long, precise, straight cuts—critical for secure joinery and clean, professional edges. Table saws are also incredibly versatile, because you can build numerous jigs and sleds to increase their capabilities. Personally, I have a jointer sled, a tapering jig, a box joint jig, and most useful of all, a crosscut sled.

While you can add all kinds of upgrades, such as hold-down clamps, integrated stop blocks, and miter jigs, every woodworker should build a basic crosscut sled, and anyone can.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a face mask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 2 to 3 hours
• Material cost: $50 to $75
• Difficulty: Easy

Materials

• 2 (2-by-4-foot) pieces of ¾-inch plywood
• 2-inch screws
• ½-inch screws
• 2 pieces of scrap wood the same width, depth, and length as your miter slots

Tools

• Table saw
• Wood glue
• Clamps
• Drill
• Countersink bit
• L square (or whatever square you have)
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Paste wax
• CA (cyanoacrylate) glue
• Digital calipers
• Feeler gauges

Instructions

1. Decide how big your crosscut sled will be. Its size depends on two things: how wide your table saw is and the dimensions of the largest wood you want to be able to cut. The sled can hang a few inches over the edges of your table saw, but you don’t want it to sag. Similarly, the entire board you’re cutting should fit on the sled, with minimal overhang. I wanted to cut 24-inch boards, so I made my sled 36 inches wide. This gave me 12 inches on one side of the blade and 24 inches on the other.

2. Cut the plywood to length. One sheet will be the base of your sled, while the other will be cut into pieces and used to build the fence and stabilizer board. Because these are structural components, both sheets need to span the width of your crosscut sled. Cut them to that size (in my case, it was 36 inches).

• Note: The fence will hold your work perpendicular to the blade, while the stabilizer will simply keep the sled from falling apart.

3. Rip the fence and stabilizer boards to width. For stability and strength, both the fence and stabilizer should be made of multiple boards glued together. My fence is made of three strips of plywood glued together, while the stabilizer is made from two. The fence and stabilizer should both be taller than your table saw’s fully raised blade. In my case, the blade rises just over 3 inches, so I ripped the five fence and stabilizer boards to 4 inches wide each.

[Related: Tune up your table saw the right way]

4. Construct the fence and stabilizer. Glue three of the plywood boards together, face to face, for the fence, and the remaining two face to face for the stabilizer. Try to keep the boards as close to flush as possible to make flattening and squaring them easier in steps 6 and 7 .  

• Pro tip: If you have a long enough level, clamp it to the face of the fence while the glue dries to keep it perfectly straight. A crooked fence means crooked cuts.

5. Cut runners for the miter sled. The sled runners will slide freely in your table saw’s miter slots, and the better they fit, the more accurate your cuts will be. Well-fit runners will also make the crosscut sled easier to move. The runners should be the same length as your sled, the same width as the miter slots on your table saw, and about 1/16-inch shallower than the miter slot depth. I made mine out of scrap wood, but if you don’t have any of that lying around, you can just buy a small piece of pine or poplar.

• Pro tip: Err on the side of making the runners too large at first. You can always trim or sand these down to make them fit. The runners should slide freely in the miter slots without any side-to-side movement.

6. Square and flatten the fence. Once the glue on the fence is dry, flatten the bottom of the piece and square it to the face of the fence. The easiest way to do this is with a jointer, but if you don’t have one, you can do this on your table saw. Once the fence’s bottom and face are square, flatten the top of the piece as well. 

7. Flatten the stabilizer board. You don’t need to be as precise with this piece as you were with the fence. Just flatten the bottom so it sits flush across the full length of the sled. 

8. Install the base onto the runners. Place one or two pennies or washers into each of the miter slots and put the runners into place on top of them. The pennies should bump the tops of the runners just above the table top. Put a few dabs of CA glue onto each of the runners. 

Make sure the table saw blade is lowered all the way, then lay the sled base flat onto the runners, using the table saw fence to keep the plywood as square to the table as possible. The closer to square you can get this step, the easier it will be to square the fence up later. 

Give the CA glue the manufacturer’s recommended time to dry, then flip the sled over. Countersink three holes along the center of each runner, with one at each end and one more in the middle. Fasten them in place with ½-inch wood screws.

9. Install the stabilizer board. On the far side of the sled, install the stabilizer board, countersinking holes through the bottom of the sled base and then using 2-inch screws to fasten it in place. You can just line this up against the edge of the sled—it does not need to be perfectly square. As a reminder, you want this to stand tall along its long edge, as if you’re building a wall around your sled.

10. Make a cut three-quarters of the way through the sled. Move the sled out of the way and raise the blade of your table saw to about 1 inch. Place the sled runners into the miter slots, turn on the saw, and push the sled through, stopping when the blade gets to 5 or 6 inches from the fence edge of the sled. This creates a line that shows exactly where the blade will run on the sled.

Once the fence is as square as you can get it, install a countersunk second screw on the other end of the fence, approximately mirroring the pivot screw. This locks the fence in place. If you’re lucky, the fence will be perfectly square, but you’ll need to test it. 

12. Test that the fence is square using the five-cut method. There are lots of videos on how to use the five-cut method, and I recommend this one from Bike City Woodworks. He makes the process simple to understand and has a calculator you can use for the math.

In a nutshell, you’ll cut a sliver off of all four sides of a rectangular board, working clockwise, and then cut an inch-long strip off of the first side you cut. Measure the far and near end of that final strip with good digital calipers. Plug those measurements into the calculator, along with the distance from the pivot screw to the end of the fence, and it will tell you how much you need to adjust the fence. If you have a pair of mechanic’s feeler gauges, these can help you make minuscule adjustments. If you don’t, as I do not, you can use playing cards, business cards, old IDs, or any thin object you have lying around the shop. Just measure whatever you use with your calipers so you know how thick it is. 

If the numbers show your fence needs adjusting, remove the non-pivot screw from the fence, adjust its position based on the calculations, and then re-install the fence using a brand new hole. In theory, your fence should be square, but you should repeat the five-cut method to make sure. Adjust as needed until you’re within a tolerance you’re comfortable with—typically one-thousandth of an inch is great.

When the fence is square, countersink holes along the full length of the fence and use more 2-inch screws to secure it. I put three screws on the short side and four on the long.

• Warning: Make sure you don’t put any screws where the blade could hit them. Hitting a screw with the saw can damage your sled, damage your saw, and possibly send dangerous shrapnel flying.

13. Install a “don’t touch here” block. The main danger of using a crosscut sled is not paying attention to where you’re pushing from. If you let your thumb slip over the blade area and push the sled all the way through, you’ll cut your thumb. So I glue a scrap of 2-by-4 to the back of the fence, hiding the cut line. This is a physical and visible reminder of exactly where to never put my fingers.

The post Make table saw projects easier with a DIY crosscut sled appeared first on Popular Science.

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Every month, 8 million people go live on Twitch, broadcasting their passions and talents to the entire world. And at any given moment, there are 2.5 million people on the platform watching content including video games, music, cooking, and art. 

If you’re one of those viewers, you’ve probably wondered about putting yourself out there and becoming a streamer yourself. You definitely can, but there are some things you need to know first. 

If buying a new computer is not an option and you have an old, but still-functioning laptop lying around, you can use your most powerful machine solely for gaming and the other for streaming. Dual computer setups are slightly more complicated than running everything off a single machine, so you’ll need a capture card to bridge the gap between the devices. You’ll also need to buy one if you’re streaming console gameplay or using anything other than a webcam for your video feed. 

When you’ve got the proper processing power, you’ll be ready to step things up. If you want people to see and hear you while you’re streaming, you’ll need a camera and a microphone. But if you have a working smartphone, long-time streamer and pro-gamer Tyler Blevins, better known as Ninja, says you already have all you need.  

“You can use your phone as your camera and simply buy a mount for as little as $8,” he says in his MasterClass, How to become a streamer. 

From there, you can build a setup as intricate as your budget will allow. It’s a good idea to start with a proper microphone, as streamers agree faulty audio is a bigger deal-breaker for viewers than a subpar video stream. After that, upgrade your camera and invest in better lighting if you haven’t already done so. These elements are especially important if you’ll be streaming something other than video games—like cooking or art. 

Finally, pay close attention to your internet connection speed. Good streaming quality requires a high upload speed, as opposed to a fast download speed, which is better for, say, a smooth Netflix experience. The bare minimum amount of bitrate you’ll need to stream is 5 megabytes per second, says Ninja, and anything above 10Mbps will get the job done. If you don’t know how fast your actual upload speed is, you can take an online internet speed test to find out.

For that, you’ll need to work on your content and decide what kind of streamer you want to be—a gamer, a cook, an artist, a musician, or whatever else. The good news is that you don’t have to make up your mind right away, and you can try different things along the way. 

“From my experience, streaming is a constantly evolving art form, so finding your ‘thing’ as you go and being open to trying new things has always made sense to me,” Ninja says over email. 

Once you decide what you want to stream, it’s time to figure out what kind of entertainer you want to be—your persona. Most people think of streamers as loud, outgoing people who jump up and down every time something cool happens on the screen. If that’s who you want to be, great, but it doesn’t have to be. Maybe you’re not that interested in talking and only want to show your gaming or cooking skills, or maybe you’re a bit shy and prefer more wholesome interactions with your viewers. Whatever your streaming persona is, make it authentic. 

“I only talk about things I’m actually hyped about,” Ninja says. “If I was faking it, my audience would read right through that and it just wouldn’t feel right. That’s why whenever I’m asked to give advice to upcoming streamers, that’s what I emphasize—just be you.”

If you ever second-guess yourself, remember the internet is vast, and there’s space for everyone, no matter how quiet or wacky. Also, you can change your mind whenever you want. After all, at least as of the time of writing, there’s no streaming police.

“The majority of the time, [people] find you through the game that you’re playing, not through who you are,” he explains in his class. 

When it comes to choosing the game, he says it’s better to go for something that’s not so mainstream that a zillion other streamers play it, but is also not so obscure that no one will want to watch. He also explains that every time you switch games, no matter the size of your community, you’re likely to lose half of it, as many people may be tuning in not for you, but for what you’re playing. He only recommends making this jump once you’ve established a following that watches you for you, regardless of what you’re actually doing on camera.  

Another element you should consider in your strategy is promoting your content on social media. If you have any video editing skills, set aside some time to go through your streams and post videos to platforms like Instagram, Twitter, and TikTok. 

“TikTok is nice because people post clips and it’s the algorithm that shows their stuff to an audience who’s predisposed to liking it”, says Jess Boddy, special projects editor at Popular Science and a streamer known on Twitch as JessCapricorn.  

But maybe you’re not in it for the clout or the sponsorships. Maybe you just want to share your skills with the world and have a good time—and that’s totally fine. If that’s your goal and numbers make you a little queasy, Boddy suggests turning off your viewer count. At the start, you’re likely to go live for entire streams without a single view, which can be discouraging given you’re probably not sure what you’re doing yet. She says not knowing how many people (if any) are on the other side of the screen can be calming and make it easier to just have fun. 

But that’s not necessarily true, Boddy says. Moreover, it can even be highly detrimental for your mental health. This is why she suggests setting a schedule with specific days, times, and duration for your streams.  

“Being live for at least an hour and a half is good because it takes time for people to trickle in—I notice that I hit my average viewership an hour into my stream,” she explains. 

Ninja also believes having a schedule is crucial to protect you from burnout, but he stresses that flexibility is key. If numbers mean anything to you, he says staying just a bit longer on specific occasions might come in your favor. 

“Riding the waves is important,” he explains. “Sometimes you’ll be getting close to your end time and you’ll get a raid or your viewership count will go up. Keeping your streaming up can be beneficial for you: it could result in a higher viewership average and get you closer to being a [Twitch] partner.” 

Still, this is not an excuse to go overtime on every single stream, so he’s adamant you should treat this as the exception, not the rule. 

Setting a schedule also has an extra benefit, Boddy explains: consistency. “I’ve gotten to a point now that my community knows when I go live and they’ll be in the chat before I do, which is a crazy thing to think about, but it’s also very comforting,” she says.

Ninja recommends jumping into the streaming pool and setting daily or weekly goals for yourself. You don’t have to make your debut with a three-hour stream—start small by going live for 30 minutes, and only move to an hour when you’re ready.

Boddy mentions some people can get self-conscious if they know people they know in real life are watching, so they prefer not to tell their friends and family about their streaming until they feel more comfortable doing it. On the flipside, you might want the support of your immediate IRL community when you’re starting out. Do what feels right for you and keep going until you find your comfort zone. 

Finally, be patient. Becoming a big deal online always includes a huge luck factor, and that applies to streaming as well. What’s most important is that you have fun and take this as an opportunity to share your beautiful self with the world.

The post Anyone can be a streamer. Here’s how to start. appeared first on Popular Science.

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I never enjoyed fishing as a kid. It was boring, early, long, and we didn’t catch much. Now that I’m a parent, however—and a regular fisherman—I’ve been teaching my kids to fish. Though I never would have imagined it as a child, I’ve come to treasure those hours out on the lake, and know they will as well.

If you’re not an avid angler yourself, but want to get the family involved in the sport, you’ll need to make sure it’s fun for them. That means catching fish—lots of fish. Kids just starting out would much rather catch 40 little sunfish than the biggest bass in the lake like you or I would. Fishing with children is all about quantity over quality, and there are several ways to increase your chances of having a big day.

Fishing is also hyper-local, so focus on gaining knowledge about your area, not three states away. One way to do so is to find a fishing guide, says Kearning. This could be a friend or family member (I was lucky enough to have my father-in-law), or someone you hire. Fishing guides can tailor your experience to the type of fishing you want to do, familiarize you with your equipment, and give you specific tips for how to catch fish in your area. A guide can eliminate much of the trial and error in learning to fish, and get you and your kids catching faster. 

YouTube is another wonderful platform for getting local fishing information, Kearning adds. There are thousands upon thousands of fishing videos there, and there are certainly dozens that feature fishers in your area—maybe even on your local lake, river, or shoreline. These videos can give you a sense of what types of fish are available; where in the water they spend their time; some of the best tackle, lures, and baits to catch them; and the best time of day to try. 

Tyler Brady, a former charter fisherman and founder of afellowfisherman.com, recommends looking through TakeMeFishing.org, a federally funded site that offers a variety of resources about fishing. One of the most valuable is the map of the United States that shows the location of just about every lake in the country and provides information about what has been caught on that lake, and when. The map syncs with the Fishbrain app, which allows users to share pictures and information about their catch. This app is available through your browser and free to download for Android and iOS. Monthly upgrades start at $10.

Also pick up some practice weights, particularly if your kids are younger. It’s far safer to practice casting for the first time in the backyard without a hook than on shore or out on a boat.

[Related: It’s surprisingly hard to tell if someone is drowning, so we made you a guide]

Finally, make sure you have scissors or clippers to cut the line, a fishhook extractor and pliers, a fish identification guide for your area, a ruler, and a trash bucket or bag to collect your garbage. 

One of the easiest ways to keep children happy and entertained is snacks. I never take the kids out without a pocket full of snack bars, fruit snacks, or trail mix. When fishing slows down, the food comes out until we can find the fish again. 

Nature is also all around you, waiting to be explored. Brady keeps binoculars and a bird identification book on board. When the fish disappear, his kids start bird-watching. My kids love to look at the lily pad flowers and try to spot the turtles and frogs hiding on the shoreline. Kearning keeps a facemask and a snorkel on his boat. Weather permitting, when the kids need a break, they mask up and jump overboard to explore the lake from a different vantage point. Similarly, my kids and I sometimes fish from shore near a beach. When the fishing slows down, the kids go swimming. 

Finally, don’t be afraid to cut a trip short. Sometimes you just need to call it a day and get some ice cream. 

Respect for the environment also means having a plan for what to do when you catch a fish, says Brady. It’s very easy to accidentally kill fish. Know how to take a hook out of different kinds of fish mouths. Catch a bass, for example, and you can usually just remove the hook with your hands. Other fish, like pickerel, have large, sharp teeth, and you’ll need to use a pair of pliers or a hook extractor. And it’s a different story when the fish swallows the hook.

Also decide if you want to keep or catch and release. For the most part, we catch and release. As part of that, we try to get the fish back in the water as quickly and with as little damage as possible. We bring them into the boat, take the hooks out, take a picture, and throw them back. If you choose to take home any of the fish you catch, Kearning says you should first ensure it’s legal to do so, then dispatch the fish humanely and quickly. 

Learning to respect and conserve aquatic ecosystems is the best way to ensure that they are healthy and enjoyable for everyone for years to come. Maybe your kids will want to cast a line with their kids someday.

The post A casual angler’s guide to taking kids fishing for the first time appeared first on Popular Science.

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This article was originally featured on Popular Photography.

The PhotoScan app from Google is one of the quickest and easiest ways we’ve found to create high-quality digital versions of physical prints. In this tutorial, we’ll walk you through the steps needed to digitize your favorite instant photos, whether they’re Polaroids or Instax.

Why you should use an app to digitize

Though your smartphone’s camera may work in a pinch, this method often results in photos with noticeable glare and/or perspective distortion. The PhotoScan app, on the other hand, automatically corrects for both of these through computational wizardry. It also detects the edge of prints, so you won’t lose the snazzy borders around your instant frames.

And unlike digitizing with a traditional scanner, which can be a time-consuming process, PhotoScan creates a file ready for sharing in about ten seconds.

Step 1: Download & open PhotoScan

PhotoScan is available for free for both Android and iOS devices. Once downloaded, open the app and you should see a vertical frame with several controls at the bottom, including an option to toggle the camera’s flash on and off, as well as a toggle for glare reduction. We advise leaving both of these turned on.

Step 2: Line up your print in the frame

Select the instant photo you’d like to digitize and place it on a flat surface, preferably on a solid-colored background. I used the front of a notebook for this. With the app open, hold your phone over the print and line up the image within PhotoScan’s frame. Then, hit the big circular button at the bottom of the screen. This will start the digitizing process.

Step 3: Follow the app prompt by moving the camera around over the print

Next, you’ll see four white dots appear in the frame over your print. An arrow will guide you to the first dot. Slowly move the center circle over the first dot and wait until it turns from white to blue, this will take about 1-2 seconds.

Once a dot turns blue, another arrow will appear indicating which dot to align the center circle over next. Repeat this process until you’ve held your smart device over all four dots, at which point, PohotoScan will begin generating the final image file.

And that’s it! You can view all of the files you’ve scanned using the app by tapping the thumbnail in the bottom right of the screen. PhotoScan also allows you to rotate images and adjust the corners before sharing your scans with the world. Happy digitizing!

The post How to turn your phone into a small-photo scanner appeared first on Popular Science.

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Collecting compost is a common practice in any environmentally-conscious home. Not only is creating this natural fertilizer an easy way to reduce household waste, but the organic matter also adds valuable nutrients to the soil and has even been shown to suppress harmful pathogens that can thrive underground. However, a new study published in Nature Microbiology reveals that a drug-resistant fungus may grow in compost and infect humans that inhale its spores. 

The culprit, Aspergillus fumigatus, is a common fungal pathogen that has infected people all over the world, including over 2 million in the European Union alone. But the drugs typically used to treat A. fumigatus have become less effective in recent years, and this drug resistance puts at-risk populations like leukemia patients in even greater danger.

Similar to how some bacteria can become drug-resistant after encountering antibiotics, antifungal resistance may result from exposure to agricultural fungicides, the study says.

With that in mind, it’s important for eco-friendly gardeners to keep themselves safe.

Know what’s compostable and what’s not

One easy way to maintain a clean compost bin is by adhering to a strict list of compostable goods. The Environmental Protection Agency recommends adding equal amounts of “greens” and “browns” to compost, and the proper amount of water. Only composting the recommended items will help keep your compost bin efficient and clean.

The volume of your container can also help move microbes along. Cornell’s Waste Management Institute says containers between 3 and 5 feet cubed (27 to 135 cubic feet) will create the fastest compost. Smaller containers struggle to hold in the heat generated during composting, and larger containers make it difficult for air to reach the internal microbes. During dry periods, adding water will also help the decomposition process by sustaining microbes.

[Related: How to start composting at home]

To determine if your compost is breaking down quickly, just take its temperature. Microorganisms produce heat when they decompose organic material, and high heat is associated with fast decomposition.

High temperatures also help keep compost safe. The EPA says that to significantly reduce pathogen numbers, compost should be kept at 104 degrees Fahrenheit for at least five days, and over 131 degrees for at least four hours within that same timeframe. This time helps destroy fly larvae, weed seeds, and some pathogens sensitive to temperature. However, most microorganisms cannot survive in temperatures above 140 degrees, so if your compost starts to approach that benchmark, you should mix it up to cool it down.

After this stage of rapid decomposition and high temperatures, which may take weeks or months, decomposition will slow and your compost’s temperature will drop. The final stages of composting help stabilize the stuff so you can use it in your garden.

How to keep mold out of your compost bin

Unfortunately, you simply cannot clear all microorganisms and fungi out of your compost bin. Compost needs microorganisms and fungi to turn waste into fertile compost. In addition, A. fumigatus is so common that people inhale its spores repeatedly throughout the day. Most people can breathe in the spores with no reaction. But when it infects immunocompromised patients, they face severe health risks, including death. With so many spores around, Cornell recommends several key safety measures beyond proper composting materials and temperature control.

The post Drug-resistant fungus could be lurking in your compost, but you can reduce the risk appeared first on Popular Science.

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DIY projects have been a hallmark of Popular Science since we started printing articles with pictures. These contraptions ranged from homemade neutrodyne radio sets, to tractors, to borderline illegal breweries, but many of our favorites were featured between the 1940s and 1970s. By that time, our projects had taken on an “everyman” appeal; you didn’t need to be an expert or a crazy inventor to assemble them, but they would take resourcefulness, dedication, and hours of sawing.

Admittedly, most of our archive’s DIY projects are wildly eccentric, even impractical, but the point is that they’re fun to make. Who else but a tinkerer would build a crossbow in the year 1940? Who else would pave their own badminton court when they could hire the labor? Who else would think to build a scooter out of wood?

The beauty of DIY features is that they introduce readers to unlikely projects. In addition to the ones mentioned above, we provided articles on turning your station wagon into a camper and building a DC-to-AC “wall plug in the wilderness” inverter for people who enjoy watching TV in the great outdoors. We also couldn’t resist two the psychedelic light show DIY and the dodecahedral Meditator, pictured above, two not-so-subtle products of their time.

Headed to a medieval fair? Don’t forget to bring a crossbow, which can be made at home with a mere five dollars’ worth of scrap material. For the bow, collect a light auto spring from your local junkyard and hack-saw it accordingly. Use an ivory release nut and a stock cut from 2″ by 8″ by 27″ inch walnut. You’ll also need hinged wooden jack to draw the bowstring and bolts made of birth or fir dowels. And what’s a crossbow without feathers? Gather a bunch of stiff turkey or goose feathers and glue them onto wooden shafts. Use high-grade linen for the bowstring. Cutting and sawing all of the individuals pieces could be a little complicated, so we provided several diagrams to guide our readers through the process.

If you’ve been neglecting your backyard, consider turning it into a badminton court. Don’t hire a firm when you can pave it yourself. First, decide what kind of pavement you want. Dirt courts are the least expensive, but if you have money to spare, try a bituminous emulsion court, which has a tar-like consistency. Asphalt-concrete pavements are firmer, but require expert labor since the material is laid on hot. Finally, you can also consider concrete, which is popular in Southern California homes that come with badminton courts, but make sure you but it pre-mixed. After paving your court, wait a month until the concrete sets before painting the border lines. From there, install the light standards, the net, and the shrubbery.

Six months after the Pearl Harbor bombing, we provided an easy guide to making your own affordable airplane detector. Although this instrument wasn’t as sophisticated as the ones used by army searchlight crews, it was sensitive enough to detect a conversation occurring three blocks away. Civilians using this device could reasonably locate planes in a five to ten mile radius. The microscope installation pictured at left used a rock-wool plug, a shielded microphone cable, a water-tight metal shield, and a static microphone cartridge, among other materials. The “ear” could be taken from the horn of a phonograph, but you could also make it from a sheet of metal. The stand was made from scrap lumber, and the entire device was battery-powered. Simply plug earphones into the jack to begin listening.

Consider this wooden contraption a kid’s homemade introduction to motorbikes. This scooter, named Pioneer, weighed just 120 pounds but could carry twice its weight. It could drive at half a mile a minute on flat ground, could climb hills, and was road-tested for 300 miles. J.M. Harris, who provided the plan pictured left, made his out of oak and everyday hardware. First, saw your pieces from the oak. After assembling the frame, construct the seat parts out of foam rubber, plywood and stitched canvas. Strap on the fuel tank, attach maple dowels for the handlebars, and decide on whether you want a chain or belt connection to the rear wheel. Once you’re done, don’t forget to hook up the headlights battery.

Unable to part with your electric razor? Incapable of building a fire? Try making this portable DC-to-AC inverter instead. Hook it up with a 12-volt battery and leave the rest to your dual-transistor circuit. The inverter could power TV sets, kitchen appliances, power tools, hi-fi gear, and any other device that could run on less than 120 watts of AC.

Yard tractors cost thousands of dollars nowadays, but back in the 1960s, you could assemble your own from a kit costing just $350. It came with machined parts, tracks, pulleys, bolts, shafts, a welded-steel body, and a six-hp.,, four-cycle engine. All you’d need to build it were your screwdrivers, pliers and wrenches, although DIY enthusiasts could also opt for a low-cost model with a plywood body and hardwood strips for tracks.

Driving the tractor was simple. Plush the control level to move forward. Pull it back to brake. To reverse, push the pedal with your left foot and push both levers forward. To turn sharply, brake the inside lever while pushing the outside one forward.

This project could be a little dangerous, but if you were experienced with DIY, it could mean you’d look like a total boss zipping around on this aquaglider during summers by the lake. The glider could fly at an altitude of 200 feet while towed by a ski boat moving at 35 miles per hour. At 180 pounds, the glider was quite portable and could be disassembled in two parts for easy storage.

Building it used the same techniques as assembling a model airplane. Cut the pieces from full-scale drawings on brown wrapping paper, then glue them together and bolt the tail boom to the hull. Connect the control cables to the terminal fittings using standard turnbuckles and clevis fittings, and you’re good to go. We also suggested lightplane flying lessons at the local airport for novices.

Everyone gets bored at home, so when all else fails, preoccupy yourself with a homemade psychedelic screen show. “A hallucinatory turn-on? Modern art form? Home entertainment? Whichever way you see it, psychedelic light shows with their dazzling color-in-motion displays are making the scene,” we said. “Discotheque and rock-band tested, they are adaptable as fascinating sources of home entertainment.”

Making them was just a matter of buying the right equipment. You could produce these lights using a kaleidoscope projector, with a psychedelic slide and polarizing wheel, or with a strobe and color wheel display. (“High-intensity repetitive flashes give the eerie stop-motion effect, adding even more far-out character to a show.”)

Simply shine a high-intensity white light (such as a slide projector) through these elements to enjoy the show. We also suggested using music and sound synchronized with the lights to add either a danceable or ethereal effect. If you were really enthusiastic about DIY projects, you could also consider making a “wet show” by dropping color dyes into a clear-glass bowl of water on the overhead projector.

J.R. Fund, a self-proclaimed suburbanite, didn’t own a trailer but wanted to avoid paying for motels during family road trips. When he proposed building a station wagon camper, we asked him to prove its feasibility.

As it turns out, Fund’s camper (while smaller than most trailers) turned out to be a practical project. As the diagram on the left shows, it could hold two to three travelers along with a cabinet for food. You couldn’t cook inside it, but you could set up the requisite equipment at any campsite.

Construction called for an array of simple materials: plywood, aluminum, piping, a plastic water tank and a sink that could be purchased at a supply store.

Everybody needs some time alone. Monks have their abbeys, Henry David Thoreau had Walden Pond, and Popular Science Design Consultant Ken Isaacs had his dodecahedral Meditator, modeled after the Pythagorean concept of universe’s atomic building blocks. Cut the plywood panels using the layout provided in our magazine, sand the pieces and apply enamel, and finally, assemble them into the geometric structure. Glue graphics inside the Meditator to create a “pholage,” or a “photo collage.”

“It’s difficult to predict, but you may find the sensation akin to that mystical communion with nature that you experience when alone in a forest — or the sense of peace you feel in an empty cathedral,” Isaacs said when describing how it would feel to sit inside the Meditator. “or you may develop sudden insights as you study the picture-fragments of your world–and be swept by the conviction that you’re ‘getting it all together’ at last.”

The post Archive Gallery: PopSci’s Quirkiest DIY Projects appeared first on Popular Science.

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Woodworking sometimes feels like it’s as much about collecting tools as it is about creating something beautiful and functional. However, “tools” aren’t all expensive table saws and fancy router bits. Many everyday household items can make your woodworking projects easier, cleaner, or faster, and there’s nothing more satisfying than figuring out how to solve a problem with a completely unexpected tool.

Rubber cabinet liner

Keeping wood still while you work can be an annoying challenge. Some projects are too small to clamp, and other times clamps get in the way. That’s where rubber cabinet liners come in, providing a grippy surface that will keep wood in place for sanding or routing.  

Lay the cabinet liner on your workbench, place the wood on top, and start working. Depending on how heavy the piece is, you may need to hold it in place with your forearm or free hand, but it should mostly stay put. If the liner slides a bit, try wrapping it around a medium-sized scrap of plywood, around 20 by 12 inches, using staples to fasten it. This creates a secure surface you can then clamp down. 

These liners are also a good cushion for near-finished pieces to rest on so they don’t get scratched.

Playing cards

Silicone utensils

Silicone baking utensils are perfect for spreading glue, because nothing sticks to them. Cleanup is easy and fast: the glue wipes right off with a paper towel. If the glue has dried, flex the spatula back and forth a few times and the caked-on adhesive will crack and fall away.  

I keep several sizes on hand for gluing different widths of wood. They get in tight to the nooks and crannies of projects, and spread the glue smoothly and evenly. Just make sure they don’t somehow end up back in the kitchen.

[Related: Get your scratched wooden cutting board looking bright and new]

Old IDs and credit cards are also great for spreading epoxy and wood putty, so don’t feel the need to buy a brand new set of spatulas just to slather them with glue.

What might be less common knowledge is that mustard and ketchup squeeze bottles make excellent glue bottles, after being thoroughly cleaned, of course. Just make sure to keep the opening clear of dried glue by sliding a nail in there when you’re not using it.

Compressed air

That can of compressed air that you use to blow the dust, cat hair, and cracker crumbs out of your computer keyboard is also an excellent way to blow the dust off of a project before applying stain or finish. An air compressor is better for large projects, but not everyone has one, or wants to go through the effort of setting it up just to knock the dust off of something small. That’s when I turn to a can of compressed air. Quick and easy.

Painter’s tape

Admittedly, it’s not weird to have painter’s tape in a woodshop. However, there are so many more uses for the stuff than simply covering parts of your project while painting.  

First and foremost, painter’s tape can make it easier to clean glue out of a freshly fastened corner—you just have to plan ahead. If you tape along the edges of a seam or joint before you put the wood together, the glue will squeeze out onto the tape instead of the wood. Then you can just peel the tape up to remove the excess glue. Do this while the glue is still wet—if you let it dry, the tape will just get stuck under dried glue and you’ll have to chisel it out anyway.  

A final use for painter’s tape is to temporarily connect two pieces of wood face to face. Stick a piece of tape on one board, and another on the second board so the two pieces of tape will touch when you put the boards together. Apply a few dabs of cyanoacrylate (CA) glue to one piece of tape and spray the activator onto the other. When you sandwich the two boards together, making sure the tape touches, the glue will bond and harden, holding the boards in place. When you’re done working, just pull the boards apart. The CA glue will hold firm and the two pieces of tape will stick together, but the tape adhesive itself should peel right off, leaving little to no residue and no hardened CA glue for you to chisel or sand off. If you don’t have painter’s tape or CA glue, you can also use double-sided tape the same way. Using tape to hold boards together is an effective strategy if you’re flush routing two boards, building a temporary tapering jig for your table saw, or trying to hold a spacer in place without screws.

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Growing plants can seem intimidating, but we believe anyone can create a thriving home conservatory of any size. We’re here to help nurture your skills and help make that happen, so please feel free to send any plant-related questions of your own to ask@popsci.com with “Plants” in the subject line.

Many of the most dramatic scenes in English Gothic literature take place on the moors: Heathcliff is haunted by ghosts in Wuthering Heights; Jane Eyre’s titular character runs aimlessly after learning her beloved Mr. Rochester has been keeping his first wife captive in his attic. If the Brontë sisters’ fictional worlds work in a similar way to ours, sphagnum (or peat) moss was cushioning these characters’ wandering feet. And if Jane and Heathcliff had any seedlings on their windowsills, chunks of that same moss may have been padding those pots.

Peat moss is acidic (which some plants like), has antimicrobial properties that can keep your plants healthy, and stores and distributes water better than almost anything else on this planet, whether the moss itself is dead or alive. These properties make it an ideal medium for many types of gardening, and about 30 percent of extracted peat is used for horticultural purposes. But drained peatlands also release about 1.9 gigatonnes of carbon dioxide every year, or about 5 percent of total human-generated greenhouse gas emissions—a significant amount for our planet. Thankfully, there are effective ways to replace peat in your garden. 

Why peat moss is so special

To understand why peat bogs put the Amazon rainforest to shame in terms of carbon storage, you must understand that these bogs are remarkably springy, like a sponge. Brian Jackson, professor and director of the Horticultural Substrates Laboratory at North Carolina State University recalls his experience with one in Canada: “I was standing 200 feet away from a tractor that drove by. And the person I was with said, ‘Wait for it, wait for it.’ And like five seconds later, the ground beneath me moved due to the vibration from that tractor from 200 feet away.”

Some of the same attributes that make hundreds of layers of sphagnum moss feel like a solid puddle are also what make them so good at storing carbon. For example, they take a long time to decay, so they end up holding their organic molecules for hundreds to thousands of years. If you’re a numbers person, consider this: they make up about 3 percent of the world’s land area but store a quarter of the carbon—carbon that would contribute to the climate crisis if released.

While these are important considerations, every growing medium has some sort of environmental impact—choosing is a matter of mitigation, not elimination. And, as always, we can only make so much difference on the individual level. “It’s a lot different than the professional individuals who are using growing media to grow vast acreages of crops,” says Jackson.

Forestry scraps can hold nutrients just as well

To make soil more acidic and avoid rinsing out crucial nutrients when you water the plant, Jackson recommends adding aged pine bark to the soil. It’s a byproduct in the forestry industry, especially in the southeastern US. It’s all about the cation exchange capacity (CEC): how well the soil can hold positive ions, which hold on to nutrients. “[The CEC] is quite high in peat moss, but it also can be very high in aged and composted barks,” Jackson says. 

How to recreate peat’s antimicrobial properties

The post The planet needs its peat moss. Use these gardening alternatives instead. appeared first on Popular Science.

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This article was originally featured on Field & Stream.

Smoking fish is as old as fishing itself. Some techniques, and of course equipment, have evolved since our ancestors first tied a line to a stick, but some universal truths remain as relevant as ever. It isn’t complicated to smoke your own fish, but there are some mistakes you want to avoid. Whether you’re smoking saltwater or freshwater fish, if you want the best texture and flavor, keep the following in mind.

Know the difference between cold smoking and hot smoking

Cold smoking requires a consistent low temperature (65-85 degrees F) to cure fish over several days, and without a lot of experience or the right equipment, there’s a bit of a learning curve. Hot smoking on the other hand is easy to do with pellet grills, electric smokers, and log burners. The tips below are for hot smoking fish. With smokers set around 160 degrees F, hot smoking doesn’t take as long as cold smoking and produces a fantastic finished product. 

How to choose the best kinds of fish to smoke

Bottom line: The fattier the fish, the better. Fat helps fish stay moist, and it absorbs more smoke, which results in more flavor. Some great fish to try smoking are trout, steelhead, salmon, tuna, swordfish, mackerel, and sturgeon.

You can smoke leaner fish like walleye and sunfish, but they’re usually better when cooked in other ways. If you are determined to smoke leaner fish regardless, follow the methods here but include an extra step for applying a thin coat of grapeseed oil to the fish before smoking. Doing so adds a very small amount of fat to the exterior, but more importantly, since grapeseed oil is a semi-drying oil, it will partially harden when exposed to air, forming another layer to help lean fish absorb flavor from the smoke.

The best wood for smoking fish

Choosing wood for smoking is largely based on personal preference, but most people who smoke fish agree that some woods are too “harsh” for the flavor of fish. Top fish smoking woods include alder, maple, pecan, apple, and even cherry—while you may want to stay away from hickory and mesquite unless it’s mixed with another wood. For me, a mesquite and cherry mix is likely the strongest wood mix I would ever use for smoking fish.

The best kinds of smokers for smoking fish

Electric smokers, pellet grills, and log burners all work for smoking fish. In my experience, log burners offer a far more thorough smoke but come with a lower degree of control, and require more work to operate. For example, you’ll need to cut logs to a specific size (larger logs burn at lower temps for longer) instead of using chips, and you’ll want to cut off any bark because it adds harsh tones to the smoke.

Generally speaking, pellet grills and electric smokers are the easiest to use. But the smoke is far less concentrated and, in turn, the smoky flavor is less concentrated. After all, there is a reason world-famous smokehouses and barbecue pits have trailers of wooden logs delivered each day. Ultimately, though, the choice is yours.

Smoking fillets vs. smoking the whole fish

It’s up to you whether you want to fillet a fish out or try smoking it whole. I prefer to smoke fish in the size I might serve. For example, if I have a limit of small to medium-sized trout, I’ll cut out their backbones, butterfly them, brine and smoke them whole, then serve. For a single, larger salmon, I might cut a fillet into 8-ounce pieces before brining and smoking.

Nevertheless, the sight of a whole fishing smoking is something special, and smoked skin from trout is also tasty. Do note that removing the backbone helps keep the fish opened up so smoke can penetrate the cavity. I like to use a grill mesh, in which I can situate the fish and then clamp the mesh shut to keep the fish spread open. You could also use a wooden skewer to pin open a fish and expose the fillets to more smoke. 

Preparing the fish before smoking: Dry brine vs. wet brine

There are those who argue there’s no such thing as a dry brine because a brine requires water, but I’d also argue salting meat pulls out moisture that then gets reabsorbed, creating what one might call an autonomous brine (as the moisture, thanks to salt, pools on top of meat). But this concept is also more true for red meat, so it is indeed possible a dry brine for fish is merely “salting the fish.”

A wet brine, by definition, is water with a high concentration of salt and includes other ingredients. To be clear, whether dry or wet, salt is the main component here, as it will penetrate meat while any other ingredients add more surface-level flavor. Salt binds to muscle fibers, which boosts flavor and helps retain moisture while cooking.

I’ve moved away from wet brines for most forms of cooking. Minerals in water (especially tap water) can denature protein (not in a good way, typically speaking) and affect flavor. And your tap water will vary from my tap water in terms of mineral content. If you’re determined to use a wet brine, I suggest buying spring water from the store and making sure to boil in a healthy amount of salt before adding a saltwater fish. Dry-salting a fish, is quicker and produces something called a pellicle on the exterior of the meat—which is a thin, sticky membrane to which smoke can adhere.

Whether wet brining or salting, you’ll need to rinse the salt off of the meat, pat off any moisture with a towel, then let the meat fully dry before smoking. (Wet fish creates a mushy texture and won’t absorb a lot of smoke.) To fully dry the fish, you can either leave it on a grate overnight in the fridge or place it under a fast-running fan in a cool (no more than 60 degrees), shaded place for an hour. The goal is a dry fish that’s a little bit sticky.

Basic smoked fish recipes

As mentioned at the beginning, this article is meant to establish some guardrails but still allow you some room to improvise. Below are some basic brines and methods for smoking your favorite fish.

Wet brine ingredients:

• 1 gallon spring water
• 1/2 cup kosher salt
• 3/4 cup brown sugar
• 1/2 bulb fresh garlic, smashed
• 1/2 cup black peppercorns

Bring to a simmer and stir until the salt and sugar has dissolved. Cool in fridge and add your fish only once the brine has completely cooled. Brine 8- to 16-ounce cuts of fish or whole fish for 6-8 hours (a little longer for bigger cuts or whole fish), thoroughly rinse under cold water upon removal, pat dry, and allow the fish to fully dry before smoking at 160 degrees for 2-1/2 hours.

Dry brine / salt mix ingredients:

• 1 cup kosher salt
• 1/2 cup brown sugar
• 2 teaspoons paprika
• 2 teaspoon granulated garlic
• 2 teaspoons onion powder
• 1 tablespoon white pepper

Mix all ingredients in a non-active bin (glass or plastic) and add the fish flesh-side-down in 8-ounce pieces. Let it sit in the fridge for 1 hour. Flip the fish and let sit in the fridge for 1 more hour. Rinse off all salt under cold running water (this is a quick rinse but you want no granules or flakes left on the fish), pat dry, and allow the fish to dry either in the fridge overnight or under a fan (in a cool place) for 1 hour, until completely dry. Smoke at 160 degrees for 2 to 2-1/2 hours.

While smoking any fish, after allowing the fish to smoke for the first half hour, you can add a glaze of maple or agave syrup every half hour until the fish is done. I also like to mix in a tablespoon of pureed chipotle in adobo sauce for every 1 cup of maple or agave syrup and brush that on the fish.

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This article was originally featured on Car Bibles.

Time Needed: 1-2 Hours, Difficulty: Easy, Cost: $5-$40

The time has finally come. Maybe Johnny Law stopped you for a stern chat, maybe you finally saw the error in your ways and are trying to change, or maybe you’re remedying someone else’s mistakes. No, I’m not talking about becoming a confidential informant in a major bank robbery case, I’m talking about removing tint from your car’s windows.

Whatever your reasoning, we’re here to educate you on methods to remove window tint from your car. Once you complete a few steps at home, you’ll have nothing but fresh glass between you and the outside empirical world. The result will be less attention from the law, better visibility, and a cleaner car. Let’s get to it.

The safety brief

Removing window tint isn’t super risky, but it does involve blades, chemicals, and potentially hot water, so you need to be careful. Grab this equipment to stay safe.

• Mechanics gloves for not only protecting your hands from razor blades, but to also not coat your hands in gooey, disgusting tint glue.
• Safety glasses, because who knows, you might get soapy water or Goo Gone in your eye during the process of pulling tint off of your windows
• Give yourself plenty of room in a well-ventilated area. You’ll be heating up noxious glue and moving your arms a lot while pulling the tint off of your windows. You don’t want to jam your elbows into the garage wall or knock out an unsuspecting child who’s walking by.
• If you’re working with your car parked on the street, check to make sure you won’t be hassled by a city employee for working on your car where you’re legally not allowed to do so.
• If you’re using hot water, cover your hands, arms, belly, legs, toes, etc. This could be as simple as wearing close-toed shoes, jeans, a hoodie, a raincoat, and long, thick rubber gloves. Basically, cover up all of your skin so you don’t scald yourself!

The tools and parts you need

We’re going to explain two methods, the heat method and the steam method. They’re essentially one in the same, it just depends on the source of the heat. Here’s what you’ll need. 

Tool List

• Heat gun
• Portable steamer (optional)
• Mechanics gloves
• Safety glasses
• Razor blades
• Soapy water in a spray bottle
• Goo Gone or other glue-removing solvent
• Razor blade holder, plastic scraper (if razor blades seem too hazardous)

The task: How to remove window tint

1. Get your door’s window ready.

If you have frameless windows, like those found on some BMW models, you’re already well-setup to start pulling tint. If not, lower your window a tad to gain access to the upper right-side edge, where the horizontal and vertical planes of the glass meet.

2. Heat up the glass.

Heat up the glass on the outside to pull the tint away from the inside. Typically, you want the glass to get to just about being too hot to touch, or around 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

3. Pull the edge.

Using a razor blade, carefully pick at the edge of the tint.

4. Start pulling.

Carefully pull the tint away until you’ve got a good enough area to get three fingers on, and then continue pulling while ensuring it stays hot. Once you have a couple more inches pulled away, take the heat gun and continue heating the bit that’s about to be pulled away. Keep the heat gun pointed at the leading edge, which is easier if you have a friend helping, but otherwise you can totally make it a one-person job.

Keeping the tint hot makes the job a lot easier and also pulls away more glue, making cleaning the glass later on a lot easier.

5. Ensure the tint isn’t tearing away.

Keep checking to make sure the tint isn’t getting torn away. Though, if it’s a cheap tint, it might be a lost cause. Ideally, you should be able to pull the whole piece of film down.

6. Raise the window back up.

Once you get through the top portion of the window, raise the window so you’re able to pull the bottom bit off, but don’t pull it off just yet.

7. Leave the tint attached at the bottom.

Leave it attached, and hang it over the interior of the door, otherwise known as the door card.

8. Spray down the window with soapy water.

Spray it down from top to bottom, and carefully and lightly run the razor blade along the glass from left to right at a 30 degree angle to start pulling up the remaining glue. It’s important to keep the glass saturated while scraping, as you don’t want to scrape/score the windows. You’re essentially squeegeeing the glue off. Also, the purpose of leaving the tint attached at the bottom and hanging over the door card, is to protect the door card and window channel from getting gunked up with old glue. Then, use more soapy water and a clean towel to thoroughly wash the windows.

9. Remove the rest of the tint.

For that final bit you left hanging, wipe off any potential schmutz that’ll get on the door card and pull the rest of the tint off. It’s then a good idea to go over the window with a solvent like Goo Gone to ensure all of the glue residue is completely gone. Leaving some there will mess with visibility (especially on a rainy day) and just look gross.

10. Repeat.

Repeat the above steps for each additional door window, using a fresh razor blade for each window

11. Remove the tint from the rear glass, if necessary.

For the rear glass, do essentially the same process, but get an edge going by carefully cutting a small hole in one of the corners, then use heat to make it pliable and pullable. Having a friend holding the heat gun on the other side of the glass makes this a lot easier, too.

12. Other methods without a heat gun.

You can also use a portable steamer to do all of this, but this could be a tougher way to initially heat up the glass and get the tint ready for pulling. Similarly, carefully pouring on some near-boiling water can work as well. Though, ensure your skin is well protected and insulated, like wearing a hoodie and raincoat, and ensure the rest of your body is covered and insulated as well. You don’t want to scald yourself!

13. Work slowly

Take care to move slowly and methodically. Not only makes the job more efficient, but much safer as well. When we say it takes 1-2 hours, that could be best-case. Maybe carve out an entire afternoon to do this, as it could save you a trip to the emergency room if things go south while wielding a razor blade.

FAQs about removing window tint 

We want to try to answer any questions you have. We’ve selected common points of confusion from our experience, as well as commonly asked questions from popular search results. We answered those questions below.

Q: What’s the legal limit for window tint?

A: This depends on your local state, county, or even city laws. It’s best to read up on any applicable government websites to see if tints are allowed, and if they are, what the maximum allowed VLT (visible light transmission) is.

Q: Will paint thinner or rubbing alcohol remove tint glue?

A: It will, but it will streak and be harder to clean up. Plus you’d need to be extremely careful with paint thinner around your car’s paint. It’s best to scrape (with adequate soapy water) as much as possible, wash, and then go over it with a special glue-removing solvent like Goo Gone after if needed.

Q: On which side of the glass is window tint typically installed?

A: The inside, but if the previous installer was either lazy or incompetent, it could be on the outside.

Q: I’m removing my tint because it’s too dark, but I still want shade and protection from the sun. What should I do?

A: Look into a tint with a higher VLT, or visible light transmission. The higher the percentage, the more light will be let in, such as 35 percent versus pitch-black 5 percent.

Learn more about window tint from this helpful video

Car Bibles’ editors understand that not everyone is a text-based learner. For those kinesthetic people out there, we have your back with a video showing you exactly how to completely remove window tint.

The post How to remove car window tint appeared first on Popular Science.

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The first Americans in space squirted their meals out of tubes. Their successors on the Apollo missions enjoyed somewhat finer fare, nibbling on ­freeze-​dried food. Today, travelers and desk jockeys can enjoy the ­descendants of those space dishes with an array of dehydrated cuisine. The kit below stuffs 2,000 calories in a package ideal for disaster prep or camping trips.

Drink

Typical powdered punch can form clumps when you mix it. Tapioca flour in Nature Restore Organic Pomegranate Juice Powder helps the dehydrated beverage remain smooth.

Breakfast

Cooks at Backpacker’s Pantry season raisins and almonds with cardamom and orange peel to create Indian Rice Pudding. One helping delivers 12 grams of protein plus dashes of calcium and potassium.

Snack

Dried fruit like dates and apricots bind Wild Zora Original Meat & Veggie Bars together for a texture that’s softer and tastier than gas-​station jerky. Each 1-ounce packet delivers 100 calories.

Dinner

Each packet of Good To-Go Pad Thai provides two servings of that sweet and spicy dish, along with 146 grams of carbs. Add about 2 cups of boiling water, wait 15 minutes, then eat it right out of the bag.

Dessert

Most sweets don’t travel well. But the 1.1-ounce Mountain House Ice Cream Sandwich is a room-temperature freeze-dried confection that looks and (mostly) tastes like the real thing.

This story originally published in the Out There issue of Popular Science.

The post How to build a perfect dehydrated food kit appeared first on Popular Science.

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This article was originally featured on Field & Stream.

In honor of Earth Month—and Earth Day later this week—we’re celebrating the best way we know how: with a series of stories that are all about getting outside and getting your hands dirty to benefit wild places and wildlife. Every day this week, we’ll share articles about habitat projects, gear-repair tips, and conservation calls-to-action. Welcome to Dirt Week.

At the end of the 19^th century, wood ducks were thought to be the most abundant waterfowl species on the continent. By the end of the 20^th, they were on the brink of extinction in America through a combination of market gunning, logging, and land development. So, what do you have to thank for the fact that woodies still come squealing into your spread? Two things for the most part: The Migratory Bird Treaty Act of 1918 and wood duck boxes.

Wood ducks evolved to nest in tree cavities, but as large swaths of bottomland timber was cleared and swamps drained, natural tree cavities became scarce. Enter the wood duck box. The first attempt to use them on a large scale came in 1937, when the U.S. Biological Survey erected nearly 500 slab-wood boxes in central Illinois. The second attempt deployed 700 boxes, also in Illinois—and nearly half were used to hatch and rear ducklings. It was proof that the concept worked, and baby wood ducks have been leaping safely out of nesting boxes since.

Today, you can still boost the local population of woodies—and even the regional numbers with the help of other conservation-minded sportsmen–by building a simple nesting box. If properly placed, it will provide a home for generations of ducks, and ducks for generations of sportsmen. There are lots of nesting-box building plans out there, all with slight variations, but the one below, which comes from Ducks Unlimited, is my favorite. The straight roof of this box is just easier to build, compared to slanted versions like the one in the photo above. Also, whereas some boxes open at the top, the side door of this version makes it much easier to access the bottom of the box to replace wood shavings when the time comes. So, let’s get started. Here are step-by-step instructions.

1) Get the lumber

The first wood duck boxes were made of bark-covered slab-wood, and with current lumber prices, that’s still a good option. Its rough surface provides good footing for baby ducks to climb on, and lumber mills often give it away for free. If you’re going to use finished boards, untreated pine is fine, but cedar is better, as it will last longer outdoors. (Avoid pressure-treated lumber.) Cedar also has a rough side for better baby-duck footing. In any case, you want to start with a 12-foot 1×10, or the equivalent.

2) Crosscut to the right dimensions

Crosscut the 1×10 into the proper lengths. You’ll need a 31-inch board for the back of the box. Three 23.5-inch lengths for the sides. A 14-incher for the top. And a 7.75-inch length for the bottom. Mark each board at “back,” “front,” “left side,” etc. so it’s easy to keep track. If you’re using cedar, make sure the rough side goes on the inside of the box.

3) Mark and cut out the hole

On the outer face of the front, mark out an oval-shaped entry hole 3.25 inches down from the top that is 4.5 inches wide and 3.5 inches high. Use a jig saw to make the cut. Over many years of trial and error, managers have landed on these dimension as the perfect-size hole, as it is big enough for adult ducks to get in, but too small for nest-raiding raccoons to get in.

4) Make a series of kerf cuts

Now, turn the same board over, and, starting just below the hole, score the interior face with shallow horizontal cuts close together. These will give ducklings a toe-hold for climbing up and out of the box.

5) Attached the first side of the box

Attach the first side panel with using three or four 1-5/8-inch wood screws driven through the back as shown. The back should extend beyond the side by 3.75 inches or so, top and bottom.

6) Make drainage holes in the bottom

Using a ½-inch bit, drill five holes in the floor for drainage. Attach the floor with two screws through the back and two through the side. Then attach the front panel of the box to the side and bottom pieces.

7) Attach the last side and the top

Bevel the top outer edge of final side, or round it with a sander or file. Then attach it at the top only with one screw through the front board and one through the back. These screws will act as hinges, allowing this side to function as a door that swings open. Drill a small hole through the bottom right of the front piece and into the side of the door. Insert a nail of a slightly smaller diameter to pin the door shut.

8) Put up your wood duck box

Finally, attached the roof and put 6 inches of wood shavings (not sawdust) in the bottom and place the box directly above the water or along the water’s edge by fixing it to a tree or a metal pole. Be sure to include a predator guard to keep raccoons and rat snakes and the like out. A conical metal flange or sheet work well, as does a simple section of 8-inch-diameter PVC pipe. Keep the box at a height you can reach, say 5 feet, as you will need to replace the wood shavings yearly. Then get ready to see more wood ducks along your local creeks and ponds.

The post It’s time to make a wood duck box appeared first on Popular Science.

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This article was originally featured on Car Bibles.

Time Needed: Less than 30 minutes, Difficulty: Beginner, Cost: Price of a new battery ($60-300)

Years ago when I still lived in a campus apartment at Ohio State University, I passed by two college kids cluelessly tinkering underneath the hood of a Hyundai Elantra. I had deduced that the car wouldn’t start, and somehow the two had skipped the jumper cables and instead gone straight to replacing the battery. After screwing around with all the controls, they figured out how to pop the hood, looked at the engine, and said, “oh crap, it’s a hybrid.”

There was no Elantra hybrid back then. The two college kids got confused by the cover with a red wire and black wire sticking out of it, shielding a standard 12-volt battery. When they finally got the cover off, they didn’t know what to do next. I don’t want that situation to ever happen again to anyone else, so we’ve gathered a helpful guide all about  how to remove and install a car battery. Let’s get started.

The safety brief

Car batteries are a pretty ubiquitous technology, and the risk of electric shock is generally low. But low risk doesn’t mean no risk. Car batteries should be handled with the utmost care. Before you do anything, consider these tips:

• Wear long sleeves and long pants, if possible. Your car battery contains a mild acid that stores energy. It can cause acute to mild chemical burns if it contacts the skin. Keep the battery upright when lifting and try to keep it away from your skin. Be sure to inspect your battery, both new and old, for any cracks, bulging, or leaking electrolyte. These are all signs the battery should be immediately replaced.
• Wear rubber gloves. Even a thin rubber glove will act as an insulator, both from any accidental acid spills, or any stray arcing of electricity. The risks are low, but remember, low risk does not equal no risk. 
• Wear safety glasses. There are all sorts of fluids, dirt, and grime that build up in an engine bay, where your battery lives. Not only will glasses protect against any potential acid spills, it also keeps irritating particles out. Always wear glasses when working under the hood.
• Lift with your legs when moving a car battery. Some car batteries can weigh up to 40 lbs. Don’t hurt yourself, lift with your legs, not your back. We’d hate for you to end up with permanent back damage over what should be a simple 10-minute repair.

The tools and parts you need

Generally speaking, car batteries aren’t super complicated to remove and install. A few manufacturers might put them in odd inaccessible places that require extra tools, but that’s unlikely. Here’s what you should need:

• A socket set and/or wrench set. Commonly, the bolts that hold the terminals to the battery in most cars will be held on with 10mm nuts or bolts. If you’re not sure of the size, an adjustable crescent wrench may work, but be careful not to round out those nuts.