If you’ve bought shoes, torn into beef jerky, or taken certain medication recently, you have likely handled at least one tiny silica gel packet. After briefly wondering why your new backpack contained a squishy little warning-labeled pillow, you probably chucked it into the garbage with the rest of the packaging.

Yet those little packets are as useful as they are ubiquitous, and you can find plenty of uses for silica gel around your home. It’s better to give them a second, third, or fourth life instead of sending them directly to the landfill. 

Although silica beads are not gems, the porous mineral does come from the ground. Silica is harvested through a “straightforward” mining process using open pits or dredging, according to Robert Goodin, a mineral commodity specialist with the US Geological Survey’s National Minerals Information Center. He says this usually removes vegetation and disturbs the ground’s top layer, and adds that explosive charges will occasionally be used to break apart the rock.

[Related: Which expiration dates actually matter?]

“These little silica gel packets, they’re in everything, but [use in desiccation is] actually a very small percentage of what this industrial sand is used for,” Goodin explains. “It’s less than 1 percent of the eventual end use.” He estimates that over 60 percent of silica sand—similar to regular sand but with much more silica—goes to the oil and gas industry for fracking and other needs. Glass production uses up another roughly 10 percent.

“Recently, [the US has] been the top producer, a major exporter and self-sustaining in a lot of these end-uses for silica, so we have a strong silica—or industrial sand—mining industry” in this country,” Goodin says.

What happens if you eat silica gel?

Despite their ominous, all-caps warnings about consumption, silica gel packets are generally considered non-toxic. The real concern is the size of the beads—it’s pretty easy for a child to choke on the packet or the beads within it, although some beads are large enough for adults to choke on, too. Swallowing silica gel can also lead to dehydration, which could irritate your throat and nose, and cause stomach pains, vomiting, constipation, or nausea.

Even so, spending a lot of time up close with silica can lead to health problems. According to Goodin, industrial workers exposed to silica dust may develop respiratory illnesses if inhaled.

And Britta Baechler, senior manager of ocean plastics research at Ocean Conservancy, notes that some silica gel packets feature a color-changing moisture indication. These aren’t supposed to be used near food and contain a compound known as cobalt chloride, which several chemical manufacturers list as an irritant and a carcinogen.

“Overall it seems that when they do not contain cobalt chloride, silica gel packets are relatively safe to use,” Baechler says. Nevertheless, you should avoid reusing these packets for any food-adjacent uses, just in case.

How to use silica gel around your home

Even if you shouldn’t use silica gel packets around food, there are still plenty of ways to safely reuse the desiccant, but you’ll have to reactivate the packets first.

Paper-based heirlooms—think old books, Gramma’s wedding photo album or your children’s handmade holiday decorations—are also frequently threatened by insidious moisture, leaks, or humidity. Tuck some silica packets into your memory box and breathe a little easier.

Protect—or revive—electronics

You’ll need quite a few to be effective, but keeping silica gel packets packed away with cameras, film, smartphones, video tapes, laptops, and other water-sensitive electronics and accessories can keep them safe until subsequent use. Dropped your phone or tablet in the bath? Try using a slew of silica gel packets to adsorb the water and bring the device back from its watery doom.

Keep moisture-prone areas dry

Your bathroom, basement and attic, are all places that can accumulate moisture easily. Adding silica gel packets near areas that might fog up, like windows and mirrors, can help prevent that slightly-annoying or even damaging condensation and slow down the growth of mold.

[Related: The right way to wash your waterproof clothes]

Preserve unique, special-purpose, or expensive materials

Leather and sports gear might be fine in a bit of rain, but prolonged exposure to moisture can ruin, stain or mildew different specialty fabrics. And any boxes of seasonal clothing or items you only use once a year (think: holiday sweaters and decor) might get wet long before you open them up and realize it. Silica gel packets tucked into pockets and between layers of fabrics can adsorb water before anything is ruined. Other water-sensitive materials such as seed packets can benefit from nearby silica gel packs, and you can even speed up drying flowers with silica. 

What happens to silica beads in the environment?

For most silica gel packets, a single use is all they’re likely going to get. Still, the packets that encase the silica gel beads are a relatively understudied source of single-use plastic pollution, Baechler explains.

“By function, [silica gel packets are] a desiccant,” Baechler says. “So if these packets are being dumped into waterways, or even onto land, it can dry out whatever environment ends up in, which can be problematic.”

[Related: How to go zero-waste at the grocery store]

Additionally, silica works as an insecticide for indoor and outdoor uses in powdered form on “stored grain, other food, feed and ornamentals; in food handling areas; and on pets and their living/sleeping quarters,” according to a US Environmental Protection Agency fact sheet.

“That means it’s being applied in an environmental setting,” Baechler adds. “I would surmise that if silica is used in this way and released into the environment, especially in large quantities that could have some impacts in terms of water retention in ecosystems and, perhaps, impacts on [animal and plant life] as well.” 

For now, at least, the environmental effects of silica gel are uncertain, but we think it’s better to be safe than sorry.

This story has been updated. It was originally published on July 27, 2022.

The post 6 clever ways to reuse silica gel packets appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

No matter your operating system, Mozilla Firefox makes a great default browser. The free program is quick, intuitive, and packed with features. And you can customize it in all kinds of ways, from tweaking the look of the software to changing the appearances of individual websites.

Once you dig past the surface-level options, you’ll find you can do even more with this privacy-focused browser. These features include app troubleshooting, expert tab management, and entirely new ways of surfing the web. Check out the tips below to ensure you’re taking advantage of all Firefox has to offer.

1. See tabs on your other devices

If you’re using Firefox on multiple devices—maybe a laptop, a desktop, and a phone—and you’re signed into the same Firefox account on all of them, you can see open tabs across all of them through a feature called Firefox View.

First, click the three horizontal lines (top right), then Settings and Sync to make sure you’re signed in. As long as you’re signed in on at least one other device, you can click the Firefox icon on the far left end of the tab bar to see the tabs you’ve got open elsewhere.

2. Customize your address bar

You can turn the Firefox navigation bar into a search powerhouse. That way, when you type keywords (rather than URLs) into the address bar, you’ll be searching for those terms across the web. First, choose the search engine you prefer, whether that’s Google, Bing, DuckDuckGo, or something else. Then set it as Firefox’s default, so search terms in the navigation bar will yield results from that search engine. To do so, open the application menu (click the three horizontal lines on the top right of the page), then choose Settings and Search to set the default.

The address bar can act as more than a standard search engine, too. By typing in special keywords, you can launch custom searches within pretty much any site you like, including Wikipedia, IMDb, Amazon, and more. To set this up, navigate to the site you want to search and find its search box. Right-click inside the box and choose Add a Keyword for this Search. A dialog box will pop up. Next, type something short but unusual in the keyword box. This is the term that will trigger your site-specific search when you type it in the Firefox address bar, so you don’t want it to resemble any normal keywords you might search for on a regular basis. For example, you might choose to trigger an IMDb search with the term “imdb”, because you’re not likely to run a general search for that word.

Click Save, and you can then search within that site by entering your keyword, followed by your search terms, in the address bar at the top of the browser. To stick with our previous example, type “imdb Tom Cruise” into the navigation bar to search the IMDb website for Tom Cruise.

3. Watch videos in picture-in-picture mode

When you’re watching a video in Firefox, you’ll see a small overlay button that looks like two rectangles with an arrow pointing from one to the other. Click on this, and your video will pop out of Firefox. Then, you can carry on browsing while the video continues to play.

Click and drag the pop-up window to move it, and drag in (or out) from its edges to resize it. Click the X to close the picture-in-picture video, or the back to tab button (an arrow pointing to a box) to continue playback inside Firefox again.

4. Delete browsing data when Firefox is closed

Keeping on top of cookies and other browsing data saved by the sites you visit in Firefox can be tricky. This data saves information such as your location and your settings for particular sites, and while it can streamline your browsing experience, you may not feel comfortable with websites knowing this much about you.

If you’d like to stay a little more private, click the three horizontal lines (top right) in Firefox, then choose Settings and Privacy & Security. There, you can check the box labeled Delete cookies and site data when Firefox is closed. Every time you shut down the browser, these files will be automatically wiped, so you won’t need to worry about them.

5. Turn on mouse gestures

Clicking and scrolling is fine, but Firefox lets you supercharge your online navigation with mouse gestures that allow you to trigger specific actions by moving your mouse a certain way. Give it a trial run, with the help of the Gesturefy add-on, and there’s a good chance you’ll never look back.

First, install the extension inside Firefox and restart your browser. To explore the available gestures, open the main menu (the three horizontal lines in the top right) and choose Add-ons and themes. Find Gesturefy, click the three dots next to it, then Options, and you’ll find the configuration panel.

Under the Settings tab, you can set the trigger button, which is a button you need to hold down while making a mouse gesture. Gesturefy’s default trigger is the right mouse button, but you can change it if you’d like. Switch to the Gestures tab to see some of the gestures already in place. For example, dragging the mouse quickly to the right, then the left (with the right mouse button held down) closes the current tab. You can add more gestures to the extension’s repertoire here, too.

It may take you some time to get the hang of these gestures, but once you do, you may find that a quick hand movement feels much more intuitive than fishing around for toolbar buttons or scrolling through menus.

6. Manage your tabs

Tabs make up the core of your browsing experience—but you don’t have to settle for the default options Firefox gives you. Check out the Tree Style Tab extension, for example, which introduces a new tab panel on the left and lets you organize your open tabs into hierarchies, almost like a family tree.

Then there’s Tab Stash: This extension lets you save batches of tabs together as bookmarks inside Firefox. If you’re researching a particular topic, for example, and want to come back to it later, you can quickly save all your open tabs as a group that you can open up again later.

You should also check out Simple Tab Groups. This extension does exactly what its name suggests, enabling you to organize open Firefox tabs into color-coded groups in—you could have one group for work stuff and another for personal stuff, or whatever you like.

7. Take screenshots of webpages

There are all kinds of reasons you might want to take screenshots—for posterity, or maybe to refer to in a separate document—and this is really easy to do in Firefox. Just right-click on a blank part of a page, then choose Take Screenshot. You can either click on an element (like an image) to grab it, click and drag across a region to capture, click Save full page to screenshot the entire page, or click Save visible to just capture what you can currently see on screen.

8. Snooze tabs for later

You might be familiar with snoozing your alarm—hitting a button to postpone your wakeup call and sleep for a few extra minutes. Now you can do the same with Firefox tabs, thanks to a third-party extension called Snooze Tabs.

The extension is pretty simple to use: Click the extension button on the toolbar (it looks like a jigsaw piece), then pick Snooze Tabs. You can send the tab you’re currently viewing, or all your Firefox tabs away until a later time and date—choose a preset option like Tomorrow morning or specify your own with Custom time.

9. Search through your tabs

Browser tabs seem to multiply like magic, and you likely have dozens of them open at any one time. That can make navigation tricky, but there is a tab search trick that can help: Click inside the address bar at the top of the Firefox interface, then type the percentage symbol (%)and a space. You’ll then be able to search through the titles of the tabs that you currently have open.

10. Refresh Firefox

If you find your software bogged down with a bunch of extensions, or behaving sluggishly for no specific reason, most programs require that you uninstall and reinstall them to restore their factory settings. Firefox offers a built-in refresh feature that easily resets the browser back to its factory settings and gets it running as good as new. As Mozilla explains, a refresh will return most Firefox settings back to their default state, but it won’t affect your saved bookmarks, stored passwords, browsing history, or even open windows. What it does scrub are third-party extensions, website permissions, modified user preferences, and any customizations you’ve made to the Firefox toolbar.

To access the refresh feature, type “about:support” into the address bar and hit Enter. This takes you to the master troubleshooting page. Click the Refresh Firefox button on the right, and instructions will guide you through the short process.

If you’re really having problems with Firefox, you may not be able to start it at all, which will prevent you from performing a refresh. So try running it in Troubleshoot Mode, which disables everything except the core Firefox program. To open the browser in Troubleshoot Mode, hold down the Shift button (Windows) or the Option button (macOS) while clicking or double-clicking the program icon. As Firefox starts, you’ll see the Troubleshoot Mode window appear. You can continue to browse in Troubleshoot Mode, or go ahead and run that refresh right away.

11. Switch to dark mode

Firefox comes with its own dark mode, which you may prefer. Click the three horizontal lines in the top right, then pick Settings. Open the General tab, and you’ll find Dark under the Web site appearance heading. This will be applied to Firefox’s own settings and new tab screens, but will only darken a website if the site has been coded to respond to a dark mode request from the browser.

This story has been updated. It was originally published on September 11, 2017.

The post 11 hot Firefox tips and tricks that might finally convince you to switch browsers appeared first on Popular Science.

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BEING SORE SUCKS. Anyone who’s exercised to an extent can probably complain about the stiffness, pains, or—worse—injuries the next day. But as annoying as the achiness gets, it’s a critical part of the recovery process. 

Under your skin, the all-important muscle fibers that push and pull bones to move you around tear slightly during a workout—a phenomenon called microtrauma. Combined with inflammation, these tiny ruptures may cause soreness, which your body alleviates by replacing the cells around the wound.

There are actually two kinds of muscular soreness that you feel after a workout, and they come from different sources. The microtrauma-based discomfort is known as DOMS, short for delayed-onset muscle soreness. You might feel it most between 24 and 48 hours after the workout—and for as long as three to five days. The other type, acute muscle pain, happens after you overwork your body. These pangs go away in about a day or two, just in time for the DOMS to peak. 

So are there surefire ways to get rid of your soreness? Not exactly. The problem is that to ease the aches, your body has to heal the microtears, which isn’t a process you can speed up. There is some good news, though: A solid post-workout ritual could have a placebo-like effect on your mind, blunting some of the pain you feel. And there could be other perks too.

For example, stretching does not lead to faster recovery, but it does make you more flexible and less prone to injury in the future, especially during high-intensity workouts. And while warm-ups don’t help with the healing process either, they do raise your heart rate, preparing you for the sudden jump in activity. 

Then there are the various salves, tools, and self-care schemes people try. A few studies show that proper use of compression gear could confer some benefits for blood flow and enzyme production. Some gymgoers pregame the pain with anti-inflammatory drugs like aspirin and ibuprofen, though they have no proven power against soreness. Elite swimmers might tolerate the bruises that come with cupping therapy—without any science to confirm the benefits of the practice. Even ice baths and far-infrared saunas (featuring high heat and low humidity) have minor, inconsistent results, according to researchers.

In general, getting a massage a day or two after a workout offers short-term relief for muscle tenderness. You will likely feel a little worse with a pair of hands or a percussive therapy device kneading into you, but as soon as it’s done, your pain will be more manageable for the next few hours. In certain circumstances, massages might even help reduce inflammation and DOMS.

There are three surefire things you can do, however, to soothe your soreness a bit. The first is to rest. Your body needs time to rebuild your muscle fibers, so getting a good night’s sleep and using the sore body parts less when you’re awake will help you recover faster. Weightlifters know this well and will work a different muscle group each session. If you’re a regular at the gym, commit to triceps one day and focus on a different group (biceps, maybe) the next.

The second is to make sure you’re eating well. Your body requires nutrients like proteins and carbohydrates to patch up your muscles, so enjoy a big bowl of pasta or a tall glass of chocolate milk a few hours after training. 

The third thing you can do is keep at it. DOMS hits harder when you try a new form of exercise because your body is not used to the strenuous activity. The first time will always be the most painful. But if you set a schedule and habit around the workouts you like best, it should hurt less after you crush all your reps. 

Read more PopSci+ stories.

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Love it or hate it, sleeping naked hits different. Not only is it less laundry to wash, but taking off those pajamas can do wonders for your health. While you may feel self-conscious at first, the openness of resting in the nude can actually boost your confidence and help you look your best self. 

There’s no right or wrong way to get ready for bed—it’s all a matter of preference. And while nakedness won’t miraculously cure all your sleep problems, experts say there are some modest benefits to going au naturel.

1. Younger-looking skin 

James Walker, a medical advisor for the healthcare platform Welzo, says sleeping without clothes gives your skin an opportunity to breathe, allowing for better airflow. He explains that clothes, especially tight-fitting ones, can restrict blood circulation, making it harder for your skin to receive vitamins and minerals needed for collagen production. Certain materials also might add to your discomfort in bed. Aditya Kashyap Mishra, a sex educator and relationship expert for Lustyboy, says synthetic fibers like spandex and nylon trap moisture in your skin—the added heat can make it hard to fall asleep. Other synthetic fabrics and pajamas with dyed cotton may cause skin irritation and acne from the fabric rubbing against you.

[Related: 5 surprising beauty benefits of running]

Tossing and turning from wearing the wrong clothing can affect your quality of sleep and your skin. The body makes collagen during sleep, which is essential for supple and younger-looking skin. Research shows that getting less than the recommended seven hours of sleep for adults increases skin aging and slows down recovery from sun damage.

2. A cooldown for your body

As you might expect, sleeping with your skin exposed helps regulate your temperature at night, says Walker. The drop in body temperature can prevent overheating—a real concern in summer and in places where winter is virtually non-existent. Research shows that feeling extremely hot at night increases wakefulness. Even if you manage to land some shut-eye, it will likely be less restorative with shorter cycles of slow-wave sleep and REM sleep. 

Feeling colder, on the other hand, can also help you fall asleep faster. Your body temperature is synced up with the light-dark cycles outside; it normally falls when the sun goes down. A lower body temperature from sleeping nude tells your biological clock it’s time to shut down.

3. Fewer fungal infections

Fungi and bacteria thrive in warm and damp areas like your nether regions. Mishra explains that trapped sweat from moisture-wicking clothing increases the risk of microorganisms building up, resulting in yeast infections and jock itch. Jock itch can also come from constant friction from clothes. Stripping down to nothing will allow more air circulation and keep your intimate parts from getting overheated.

4. Better emotional intimacy

Skin-to-skin contact between partners can strengthen your relationship. Research shows touching among consenting adults releases the “love hormone” called oxytocin. This chemical reduces stress and encourages openness and social bonding with others. One US marketing poll of more than 1,000 adults found that 57 percent of couples who regularly snoozed in the nude were happy in their relationship compared to 48 percent of pajama wearers. Getting used to baring it all in front of a partner can counteract self-consciousness of how you look in bed. Mishra says this openness is a huge stress reliever, and the added relaxation can help you sleep better.

What if you want to sleep in clothes?

If you’re still not convinced about sleeping naked, there are other ways to improve your slumber. Avoid tight or constricting apparel that would restrict your movement, irritate your skin, or otherwise cause discomfort. Walker recommends going to bed in loose-fitting and breathable fabrics like cotton or bamboo, or one simple layer like an oversized T-shirt and shorts to avoid overheating.

[Related: 11 ways to sleep better in unbearable heat]

There’s nothing wrong with slipping on a pair of socks before bed, Walker adds. Some people find it comforting and helpful in keeping their feet warm, especially during colder seasons. However, he warns against sleeping in socks that are too tight as they could restrict circulation. 

Whether you go to bed nude or in clothes, you should always remove your makeup and any heavy jewelry. Snoozing with makeup on can clog pores and lead to future breakouts. “It’s best to cleanse the face thoroughly before sleeping to allow the skin to breathe and regenerate,” advises Walker. Additionally, laying down in chunky necklaces, bangles, and other jewelry can be painful and might even leave abrasions on the skin.

“Ultimately, the key is to prioritize comfort and choose sleepwear that allows for optimal relaxation,” Walker says. “It’s always a good idea to listen to your body and make choices that help you feel comfortable and at ease during sleep.”

The post Why you should sleep naked tonight, according to science appeared first on Popular Science.

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When a friend asks you to share your WiFi password, how long is your explanation? Saying “Oh, it’s a mess of letters and numbers taped to the router behind the refrigerator in the rental unit upstairs” doesn’t make things easy for them. 

There are better ways to share your WiFi. And sure, each of these tips requires some minimal hoop-jumping, but it’s a heck of a lot easier than trying to dictate a password like “dD^#i16HJ9vD” to someone while they fumble with the password field.

It’s also worth noting that if you often find yourself needing to share your WiFi password, you should set up a guest network to allow people to access your internet while keeping other devices in your home safe. We’ll explain how below, but for now let’s satisfy your immediate needs.

How to share your WiFi password on Android

Google’s operating system allows you to share WiFi passwords via scannable QR codes, so you won’t have to watch your friends hunt and peck on their phone keyboards. 

1. Unlock your phone and open the Quick Settings menu—swipe down with two fingers from the top of the screen.
2. Long-press Internet to open the menu, and then tap the cog icon next to the WiFi network you’re connected to.
3. Tap Share.
4. Your phone will ask you to verify your identity with a biometric or a passcode. Once you provide it, it’ll generate a QR code with your home network’s info.

How to share your WiFi password on iOS, MacOS, and iPadOS

Sharing a WiFi password between Apple devices is even easier—at least if you’ve done some work beforehand. Specifically, both people need to have the email address associated with their Apple ID saved in the other person’s contacts, and you need to be signed into iCloud. For WiFi sharing to work, both devices also need to have WiFi and Bluetooth on, and personal hotspot off.

Unlock the device sharing the password. Have your friend tap the network on their device. A prompt should appear on the one that’s already connected—tap Share Password, then Done.

You’ll need to be somewhat near their device, and in my experience, the process can be a little finicky, but it’s something to consider. If the prompt doesn’t come up, you can always create a dedicated WiFi QR code.

If all else fails, generate your own network QR code

If you find the options above are not working or you have a lot of people coming over and don’t want to share your password with each one, you can print (or cross-stitch, if you’re ambitious) a QR code they can scan. There are plenty of tools out there that will help with this task, but I like QiFi.org. It’s incredibly straightforward: 

[Related: Device won’t connect to WiFi? Here’s what to do first.]

1. Head to your router’s administrator page by typing 192.168.1.1 into your address bar. This is a private IP address some internet service providers use as a gateway to access their routers’ settings. If that one doesn’t work for you, there are other numbers you can try. You can also check the sticker on the bottom of your router or find its user manual. 

2. Look for an option in the settings called Guest Network and set it up with a WPA2 password, if you can. 

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But if you’re an animal lover determined to feed your local park’s residents, there are several healthy alternatives. Before you go stock up on snacks, though, always make sure you’re allowed to feed the critters in question—some areas’ rules are more lenient than others.

What to feed ducks (and other waterfowl)

The best advice we can give about feeding ducks (or other types of park fowl like swans and geese) is to imitate the types of food they naturally eat in the ponds and fields they call home. This means vegetables and nutritious grains work well, while processed “human” foods do not. Even though bread is typically made from grains, the breadmaking process renders it very filling with a relatively low amount of nutrients, two factors that can lead to malnourished ducks. Instead, try to stick with snacks that haven’t been highly processed.

For vegetables, the most important consideration is making sure that the bits and pieces you offer are small enough for waterfowl to handle. Ducks and their relatives aren’t great at chewing—while their bills help break down food, they don’t have teeth, at least in the traditional sense. Cut salad greens, vegetable peels, nuts, grapes, and other produce into small pieces before you toss them to these birds.

[Related: Why do ducks have orange feet?]

A bag of frozen mixed peas, corn niblets, and carrot pieces is one of the best options for waterfowl: these veggies are nutritious, affordable, and small enough for ducks to eat whole. Grains like oats, rice, and seeds make good waterfowl chow for the same reason. Even better, many of these little morsels will float on your local pond, keeping them easily accessible to ducks. Big chunks of food that sink to the bottom aren’t as useful.

If you’re looking to get fancy, you can also drop a couple more dollars on a bag of specially formulated waterfowl food. These pellets, available online or at your local pet store, are typically fed to pet birds and farm animals. These bite-size bits may not float on water, though, so test a few handfuls near the water’s edge before you start a feeding frenzy. This designer food may be best served up on the banks.

Other tips for feeding ducks

No matter how eager they are for a human-provided snack, your local park’s resident fowl are almost certainly not going to go hungry without you. Most ducks are perfectly capable of foraging for insects, plant life, and other nutrition sources on their own. That means you don’t need to feel bad if some of them miss out on the feast. In fact, overfeeding waterfowl can cause a host of problems, from teaching them to rely on human handouts to throwing off their natural nutritional balance. When in doubt, it’s better to stop feeding the birds sooner than you’d like than it is to feed them too much.

If you suspect a particular duck, goose, or swan may be unable to feed itself after you leave, it’s time to call in professional help. Waterfowl that live in parks are susceptible to a host of dangers from the human world, ranging from vehicle strikes to lead poisoning. Feeding them may be a temporary kindness, but it’s not a sustainable solution. If you see a bird having difficulty moving around or visibly in distress, contact your local wildlife specialists right away.

The post Don’t feed ducks bread. Here’s what to give them instead. appeared first on Popular Science.

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It’s never too late to get better handwriting. We don’t mean calligraphy level, which would make your doctor’s office check-in forms look like royal decrees from the 1500s. We mean legible and consistent, regardless of whether you use print or cursive. 

Just like most aspects of life, you can improve your handwriting with practice. Repetition will help you gradually change your style, and you’ll eventually reach a point where letters flow naturally and beautifully from pen to paper. We can’t promise the words will make sense, but at least they’ll look pretty. 

Avoid thick or spiral notebooks and instead opt for one with a flexible binding that you can open flat. This will prevent the heavier side of your book from trying to pull the whole thing closed, and eliminate any wrist discomfort a thick spiral may create as you approach the end of each line. Thinner notebooks will also keep your hand from losing support as you write the final lines on a page. 

Next, find a paper layout angle that suits your writing. Don’t fall for the notion that the only correct setup is vertical, as that can force your hand and wrist to adopt an unnatural writing position, which could lead to pain and even injury. There’s absolutely no shame in positioning your sheet of paper or notebook at a 45-degree angle or even a totally horizontal alignment. The best way to find out what angle works for you is to start with your paper laid vertically and then rotate it to the left (if you’re right-handed) or the right (if you’re left-handed) until you’re comfortable. This is why having a spacious surface to write on matters, as you won’t want to knock down any desk trinkets while you play around with your paper. 

Take as much time as you need to ensure your setup is to your liking. You’ll find this will not only help you improve your handwriting but it will also be relaxing. You’re welcome. 

The best way to know if a pen is right for you is to try it. If you can, go to a stationery store and take your time sampling the pens there—write a couple words on the provided pads and see how each pen feels. Maybe buy two or three to keep testing at home. If you have no idea where to start, you can always give some fan favorites a test drive. 

Many people swear by the Pilot G-2, for example. It comes in several formats, but the tried-and-tested version has a built-in grip, is retractable, uses quick-drying gel ink, and comes in myriad colors. If you want to go with a classic, try BIC’s Cristal or Round Stic pens. You’ve probably written with these a million times before, and they’re a staple because of how comfortable and reliable they are. Some more ideas: Uniball’s Signo, Pentel’s RSVP, Sakura’s Pigma Micron, or any gel pen at Muji. These are all inexpensive writing tools with their own fan bases, so you should be able to find something that works among them. 

If you want to try your hand at fountain pens, start with something designed for beginners that—hopefully—is compatible with disposable ink cartridges, or even comes pre-loaded with ink. This will prevent you from having to buy a bottle of ink and a refillable cartridge, unless you’d really like to. Pilot’s Kakuno or Schneider’s Ray fountain pens are solid, inexpensive choices—they’re light and comfortable, and can prepare you to move on to more serious fountain pens in the future. 

When you write, do it at a normal pace (not too fast, not too slow) and mind your hold on the pen. If your nails are white from the force you’re exerting, your grip is too strong—relax your hand and try again. This is important because an excessively strong grip will lead to pain and discomfort, which can result in hand and wrist cramping, as well as injury. On top of that, pain will also affect the consistency of your handwriting and eventually deter you from putting pen to paper at all, rendering this whole process useless. 

Once you have a comfortable grip, check it every few minutes and correct it if you need to. If you’re having trouble controlling your pen, you can always change your tool or try a pen grip—one of those small rubber tubes that slip right onto your pen or pencil for better control. 

These are the elements you’ll need to focus on to improve your handwriting. No matter if you do cursive, print, or a combination of the two, you want a style that anybody can read clearly, is mostly the same across the page, and has letters that look more or less consistent. This doesn’t mean your handwriting should be perfect or resemble words on a screen (let alone calligraphy)—your handwriting is unique to you and you should embrace it as such. 

If there are aesthetic elements you want to change, or if you want to alter the way you write altogether, draw inspiration from others. A quick web search will turn up thousands of handwriting enthusiasts sharing their own pristine note pages. Take a look at them, find what you like (loose elements or entire styles), mimic it, and make it yours. 

A helpful way to practice is by making your exercises a part of your everyday life. You can do this by taking up a hobby like journaling or meditative writing. This will give you the opportunity to sit down for a couple of minutes each day and put your growing skills to good use. 

If you’re not into journaling, you can just set aside some time to practice every day. Find books, poems, and songs you like, and transcribe them. You can also write down your own train of thought if you can keep up with it. Your writing doesn’t have to be good, or even make sense—the point is to write, and as long as you’re putting words together, you’re getting some practice. 

On top of that, take every opportunity you have to write instead of typing. Keep notepads and pens around your desk and home, and pick them up to write reminders, and lists. If time is not an issue, forgo emails and opt for writing a letter or sending a postcard instead. It’s not only extra practice, but it’s a nice, old-fashioned thing to do and people love it.

A reminder: take your time and be patient. Speed will come once your hand learns the movements you’re teaching it. The more you write, the faster and more organically your lines will come. In the meantime, focus on form and consistency. From time to time, take a moment to analyze your handwriting to see how much you’ve progressed and what you still need to improve. Don’t forget about your grip, either, and check on it often to see if you need to loosen up. 

For the more independent learners, there’s also a lot of practicing material online, like worksheets and guides, that you can download at a cost or even for free. Some of them have slanted lines that can help you keep your angles consistent, and some of them have full instructions on the best ways to join letters and use spacing. 

It bears repeating: handwriting is not calligraphy, and it’s as unique to you as your fingerprints. It doesn’t have to be perfect, and it doesn’t have to look like someone else’s, so make embracing the chaos part of your process. 

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But before you start, there are a few things you should keep in mind before you craft homemade hand sanitizer. First, it’s crucial that you understand that proper hand washing will always be better than simply rubbing your digits with hand sanitizer. Using the right amount of alcohol-based disinfectant (3 milliliters) for 25 to 30 seconds is fine in a pinch, but soap, water, and a good scrub are the absolute best way to protect yourself against contagious diseases.

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Knowing how to make hand sanitizer is useful if you ever find yourself in the middle of a health emergency like the COVID-19 pandemic. But these and other DIY recipes are only for extreme cases when hand washing is not an option and supplies are low. Professionals use these formulations in underserviced healthcare settings, and if at some point hand sanitizer is not available at local stores, you can use them too.

Lastly, your homemade hand sanitizer won’t last forever. The main active ingredient in the recipes below is isopropyl alcohol, a volatile compound that will evaporate over time and compromise the effectiveness of your hand sanitizer. When alcohol concentration drops below 60%, your hand sanitizer won’t be able to kill COVID-19 or influenza, for example. The shelf life of store-bought hand sanitizers can vary—the industry standard is three years, but it can go up to five. How long your DIY hand sanitizer lasts will depend on the type and size of the container you use and how often you open it, along with room temperature and humidity. Unfortunately, all of these factors make it hard to predict exactly how long your hand sanitizer will be good for, so proceed with caution. 

The WHO has a comprehensive guide on how to make hand sanitizer—the only problem is that if you follow their instructions, you’ll end up with a lot of it. Like, exactly 2.6 gallons of it. If you want to make enough to last you, your family, and all your friends through a zombie apocalypse, you definitely can. But if you want to keep things on a smaller scale, we’ve adapted the measurements for you.

5. Sanitize your spray bottles and pour in your hand sanitizer. Spray some of your leftover alcohol into your bottles and let them sit until the alcohol has evaporated. Then pour in your sanitizer.

6. Label your bottles. Hand sanitizers pose a real risk of involuntary alcohol poisoning, especially among children, who were largely affected by it during the first months of the COVID-19 pandemic. You don’t want anyone to accidentally ingest your newly made hand sanitizer. Take the time to label your bottles with their contents and the date, and keep them away from unsupervised kids.

6. Label your containers. Hand sanitizers pose a real risk of involuntary alcohol poisoning, especially among children, who were largely affected by it during the first months of the COVID-19 pandemic. You don’t want anyone to accidentally ingest your newly made hand sanitizer. Take the time to label your bottles with their contents and the date, and keep them away from unsupervised kids.

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MOST PEOPLE have a certain mindset when it comes to working out: They tend to stick to a familiar plan and will push their bodies to the brink to achieve their fitness goals. But a healthy exercise routine has several building blocks—and a surprising number of them depend on what you do outside your regular sweat sessions. 

Warm-up

Activities that prepare you for your main fitness practice can serve two primary purposes: reducing injury and improving performance. Warm-ups hit those marks by increasing blood flow, ramping up muscle and core temperatures, and disrupting the temporary connective tissue bonds that can make you feel tight and sore. This leads to performance-enhancing benefits like faster muscle contraction, better reaction time, greater muscle strength, lower muscle resistance, and more oxygen for your cells. Warm-ups should last at least 5 minutes and top out at 15 minutes, depending on the length and difficulty of your routine: They usually include stretching and a slow increase in exertion.

Cardio

Frequent exercise that raises your heart rate to your target zone has been shown to benefit cardiac health (though there is some evidence that consistent physical effort at this level, like during marathon training, could have negative effects). It can decrease the risk of developing and dying from heart conditions. Not only that, but cardio workouts are also associated with lower blood pressure and the suppression of atherogenesis, the buildup of fatty plaque in blood vessels that can lead to coronary artery heart disease.

Strength training

Weightlifting isn’t just for people who want to get ripped: It has more significant benefits, particularly as you age. For one, targeted muscle building can reinforce joints like knees, ankles, and hips. That offers better support for your body, which helps lower the chances of falls and injuries. Contrary to popular belief, strength training also promotes greater mobility and flexibility; plus it boosts brain health and cognitive abilities like processing speed, memory, and executive functioning.

Hydration

You have to stay hydrated before, during, and after your workout. Exercise depletes the body’s fluids, particularly as you sweat. Dehydration degrades your performance and can also impair certain cognitive functions, including short-term memory and attention. Hydrating sometimes alleviates fatigue and increases reaction time. Overall, drinking water when you feel a need, rather than on a fixed schedule, can improve performance measures like duration and speed. It’s possible to drink too much water (a potentially fatal situation known as hyponatremia), so take small sips rather than chugging a bottle all at once.

Cooldown 

Just as you don’t want to dive straight into your routine, you don’t want to end it abruptly. Build in some time to slow your roll and bookend your warm-up. An active cooldown in which you do something similar to your workout but at a lower intensity, like a light jog after a long run, can solidify the results from exercising and prep you for your next routine. Bonuses include accelerated recovery of lactate in blood, partial prevention of immune system depression, and faster recovery of the cardio­vascular and respiratory systems.

Rest days

Taking days off between workouts is a crucial part of any fitness routine. Studies indicate that rest is necessary for the body to recover: When exercise and exertion sap your energy stores and fluids, relaxation gives you time to replenish them. You need at least 24 hours to fully replace the carbohydrates in your muscles, which are important for maintaining an adequate level of glycogen and stabilizing blood sugar. Rest days help prevent overtraining syndrome too. The illness mostly comes up in competitive runners and elite athletes, with symptoms like fatigue, sleep loss, and depression. 

Read more PopSci+ stories.

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Play is crucial for the social, physical, and cognitive development of many species, and even though cats are largely solitary creatures, they still need plenty of it. But people who are new to felines might not know what playtime actually looks like for these furry fellows.

Learning how to keep your cat properly stimulated is an essential part of sharing your home with them, and science can provide a couple of clues on where to start. Everyone in your household will benefit from it.

Use toys like a string wand with a fake mouse three to four times a day in brief intervals, Siracusa says, and make sure to end every play session by letting your cat put something in their mouth. It will be a satisfying outcome for all their efforts. 

You can achieve a similar puzzle-solving effect by cutting out holes in an old plastic container, or a shoe or cardboard box, and filling it with toys. Cats can then reach in and figure out how to get their treats out through the openings. 

If you have a tablet, there are apps specially designed for cats that you can download in lieu of a physical toy. For example, Cat Fishing 2 (available for Android and iOS) will turn the screen on your device into a pond with one, two or three fish that will disappear as your cat taps them with their paws. There are many apps out there that do the same with mice and birds if the fish aren’t alluring enough.

Trying and failing to catch intangible prey, like fish in a digital pond or a bright red dot on the wall, can be furr-straiting for your kitten, so be sure to reward them with a few treats or some wet food on a spoon.

“Cats tend to go high because they are prey, and observing the world from a vantage point makes them feel safer,” Siracusa explains. The floor of a busy household also brings with it the possibility of being stepped on, so allowing cats some height can be comforting. A cat tree, a cheap bookshelf, or a similarly safe place to perch will do the job. 

And if even after getting them their own observation deck your chronic climber keeps breaking your expensive porcelain collectibles, don’t punish them. It sure must be annoying to say goodbye to every fragile belonging you own, but Siracusa warns against disciplining your cat for something that’s natural to them—it can lead to aggressive behavior toward you.

For a cat, an ideal environment is one where there’s always the option to engage socially and playfully, but where they can also abstain if they want to. Attempting to force a cat to play or preventing this type of activity when needed, may lead to adverse behavior, such as seclusion and aggression.

Contrary to popular belief, loose strings and yarn can also be dangerous to cats, especially kittens: they can get caught in it or potentially ingest it and asphyxiate. Keep yarn wrapped up tightly when using it as a cat toy, and if your furry buddy is on the younger side, always keep an eye on them during playtime.

But your cat is not the only one you should be careful with. Don’t use your body as a toy when playing with cats. It goes without saying that their sharp claws and teeth can scratch your skin, and those cuts mixed with cat saliva can lead to infection. 

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When you look up at the clouds, what do you see? A blob, a wisp, perhaps an elephant-shaped clump. It’s fun to get creative with the descriptions, but scientists have a formal classification system that can be useful to the everyday cloud watcher, too. We’ve made a field guide to types of clouds, so next time you’re enjoying a day outside, you can put your newfound knowledge of the skies to work.

What’s in clouds and their names?

Clouds are made up of droplets of water or tiny ice crystals floating in the planet’s atmosphere. They hold clues about the weather—like if it’s going to rain, snow, or worse—and the interesting physical and chemical cycles churning through the air.

“They are such an amazing feature of Earth that are simply fun to look at and study,” says Vanessa Maciel, an atmospheric scientist at the University of California, Los Angeles. Clouds are shaped by the many changing characteristics of the atmosphere: temperature, moisture, winds, and more. 

[Related: Make your own weather station with recycled materials]

Just like animal species, climate scientists have a system for naming clouds with genera, plus smaller subdivisions of species and varieties. These designations are based on their shape, appearance, and how high they are in the atmosphere. Each genus of clouds can be described as one of four main shapes, first categorized in 1803: cirro-form, cumulo-form, strato-form, and nimbo-form. Cirro-type clouds are the thin wisps; cumulo-type clouds are huge and fluffy; strato-type clouds are wide and flat layers; and nimbo-type clouds are the quintessential gray rain clouds. 

The astonishing diversity of clouds might seem overwhelming to a beginning cloud-gazer, but Maciel has advice on where to start. “A great way to narrow down the type of cloud you are seeing is to first try to estimate whether it is in the lower, middle, or high atmosphere,” she says.

High clouds

The highest clouds are the wispiest: cirrus, cirrocumulus, and cirrostratus. They generally form above 20,000 feet, and typically indicate a coming change in the winds or weather. In certain regions of the tropics, they can even indicate that hurricanes are on the way. Generally, the air gets colder higher up in Earth’s atmosphere, so cirrus and friends are made up of ice crystals that are stretched and spread by the winds, giving them their thin, strand-like shapes.

Cirrus are the thinnest wisps, whereas cirrocumulus appear more like a thin, rippled white sheet. Cirrostratus are a more homogenous sheer veil. If you see a bright halo forming around the sun, that might be the cirrostratus. When cirrus clouds stack together like ridges, almost like a rack of ribs, the variety is called vertebratus.

Maciel’s favorite cloud looks a bit like a cirrus cloud, but is actually something quite different. Nacreous clouds, also known as mother-of-pearl or ice polar stratospheric clouds, are made of very cold ice. When the sun goes down they catch the light and reflect brilliant colors. “These colors occur only during sunrise and sunset, and are created by the interaction between sunlight and the cloud’s ice crystals, which are smaller than that of a standard ice cloud,” says Maciel. “They are also pretty rare as they only occur at high atmospheric altitudes and high latitudes.” Your best bet of seeing them is near the planet’s poles.

Mid-level clouds

In the middle of the atmosphere, we start to see more clumps: altostratus and altocumulus. They can be found 6,500 to 20,000 feet up, and tell very different tales when it comes to weather—altocumulus often mean you’ve got a pleasant day ahead, but altostratus indicate a long bout of rain or snow. 

Altostratus appear as large, flat sheets that aren’t quite thick enough to block out the sun entirely. Altocumulus, on the other hand, look like a horde of little cotton balls scattered in the sky. You’ve likely seen a few different species and varieties of altostratus and altocumulus before, particularly cavum. This variety is a continuous sheet of cloud with a big chunk missing. Stratiformis is another common species of altocumulus, where high clouds appear like a patchy, ridged sheet. Similarly, if there are layers of cloud that cover the sun entirely, they may be a variety known as opacus.

Low clouds

Many kinds of clouds start close to the ground—6,500 feet or below—and extend high into the atmosphere. These clouds are called nimbostratus, stratus, stratocumulus, cumulus, and cumulonimbus. These clouds are made up of water droplets from the surrounding warm air, creating their quintessential fluffy look.

Nimbostratus are the gray gloomy clouds that indicate rain. Stratus clouds also create gloomy days as they cover the sky in a low sheet of dingy white. Stratocumulus are somewhat similar to altocumulus, but they have a darker shadow and don’t appear quite as bright white as their higher altitude counterparts. 

Cumulus and cumulonimbus clouds are the behemoths of the bunch. Cumulus are huge white clouds reaching high up into the sky—the classic cotton balls. Cumulonimbus, on the other hand, are imposing and a bit foreboding, with a high, flat top and a promise of rain storms.

[Related on PopSci+: Cloudy with a chance of cooling the planet]

Low clouds come with some of the oddest and most interesting varieties and features. This is where tubes or vortexes appear from clouds, called tuba. They can also show—for a brief moment, anyway—a feature that looks like a set of perfect crashing waves, known as fluctus. Although the fluctus pattern looks almost too good to be true, it’s a somewhat common consequence of the physics of fluid motions. Stratocumulus clouds can also put on a cow costume: That is, they can grow little nubs on their undersides that almost look like udders, known as mamma. Cumulus clouds can even put on a hat, an accessory cloud called pileus that pops up at the top of one of these huge cloud formations.

What clouds to look for now

This summer, you can expect all the fair weather clouds, plus some of the weirder ones that pop up with summer storms like pileus. “Summer usually has clear skies, unlike the overcasts typical of winter,” adds Maciel. “But as summer also has a lot of convection due to the warm surface temperature, you can expect to see cumulus clouds, which are your iconic fluffy and bright white clouds.”

Clouds are just as complex as their classifications, and they’re changing not just with the seasons, but also with the climate. As Earth’s temperature warms, the varieties we see might change, too. “In spite of their ubiquity, there is still a lot about clouds that we don’t know,” says Maciel. For now, though, see how many you can spot—and enjoy the beautiful views provided by our planet’s magnificent atmosphere.

The post A scientific guide to clouds, even the ones that look like udders appeared first on Popular Science.

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Learning to ride a bike is a rite of passage in many families and communities, and that means the ability to teach someone how to ride a bike is an equally important skill. The first few tries can be scary for kids, but finding the right balance, and coordination will be easier if they have a confident teacher guiding them. That’s where you come in. 

Now, it’s not entirely natural to perch atop a pair of wheels, and falling is a near-certainty until a child has found their bike legs. Challenges are part of the process, but there are a number of ways that you can help the kid you’re teaching get comfortable on two wheels with limited trouble.

Balance bikes are simple. They’re just like small regular bikes, except without pedals. Riders propel themselves forward by pushing with their feet on the ground, essentially running with the bike beneath them. New riders can walk as slow as they want while seated on the bike, and as they get comfortable, start to move faster until they naturally lift their feet and glide farther and farther. Once they’ve mastered staying upright with their feet off the ground and can turn with a combination of the handlebars and leaning, it’s easy enough for them to hop up on a regular bike and learn the nuances of pedaling, starting, and stopping. There’s often no need for training wheels at all. One study found that children who started on a balance bike learned to ride a pedal bike around 4 years old on average, while those who started on a bike with training wheels didn’t learn until they were closer to 6. 

[Related: The best bikes for kids]

I started my kids on balance bikes when they were about 2 (they’re twins), and in a couple of weeks they were zooming and gliding faster than I could keep up with on walks around our neighborhood. When we introduced pedal bikes a few months before their fifth birthday, they got the hang of riding in two short driveway practice sessions and could easily start on their own without a push a few days later. They used training wheels for a total of 30 minutes, and that was only because we bought the bikes fully assembled and they refused to wait for me to take them off before hopping on.   

Even if your kids are older, or you’re trying to teach yourself as an adult, balance bikes are a great way to start. If you can’t find a larger balance bike or don’t want to buy one, Yip suggests removing the pedals from a regular bike and lowering the seat so the rider’s feet rest flat on the ground.

Create a fun, safe space for learning

Riding can be scary at first, so it’s important that kids start off in a comfortable environment. “Start in a flat, traffic-free area, such as a park or a quiet cul-de-sac, where your child can practice without distractions or dangers,” says Peter Ballin, a former international mountain bike racer, UCI Mountain Bike World Cup mechanic, and bicycle coach out of Morzine, France. “Ideally, start them on grass so it’s softer if they fall.” They shouldn’t have to worry about navigating around dangers or running out of space. Let them focus solely on riding.

It’s also important to remember that learning new skills is uncomfortable, so don’t push kids too hard, Yip says. After all, riding a bike should be fun. If the kids aren’t enjoying it, or are getting stressed from too much pressure, they’re going to have a harder time learning. “It’s better to let the child learn at their own pace,” he says. There’s no set amount of time that it should take. In Yip’s classes, students sometimes move from a balance bike to a pedal bike in a single day, but others might take weeks or months to get comfortable with the transition—and that’s OK.  

Ballin adds that as your child improves, giving them little challenges can be a fun way to keep them engaged and pushing themselves without undue pressure. He recommends setting up simple obstacle courses for your kid to navigate, or racing against a clock to keep them motivated and excited to learn.

Don’t forget to teach safe riding habits, too

Teaching a kid to ride a bike isn’t only about guiding them through balance and pedaling. They also have to learn about safety. First is the importance of wearing a helmet anytime they’re out riding. One analysis found that wearing a helmet could reduce the risk of head injuries by 45 percent, brain injuries by 33 percent, facial injuries by 27 percent, and deaths by 29 percent. I’ve seen the value of a helmet in action—one of my kids took a pretty bad balance bike spill and landed on the road on his face. The rim of the helmet saved him from no more than a split lip. Without the helmet, I’m sure it would have been a trip to the hospital instead. 

The other important safety lesson kids need to learn are the rules of the road, both Yip and Ballin say. Make sure to teach them that they should always ride with the flow of traffic rather than against, why we stop at intersections, what stop lights and road signs mean, and who has the right of way in what situations. Even if they’re years away from being old enough to ride alone, it’s good to drill that knowledge into their heads from the start.  

Classes are another option. In addition to providing people for your child to watch, sometimes kids need to learn from someone other than a parent or caretaker, particularly if you find yourselves getting frustrated by a lack of progress. Classes can also be a validating experience for kids who might be embarrassed that they don’t know how to ride yet, Yip says. They’ll see people of all ages who are also learning to ride, and realize that there’s no shame in not having mastered the skill yet.

And once your child is up and running on their bike, so to speak, biking groups and classes are a great way to expand their, and your, knowledge about cycling. Whether it’s getting more comfortable with street riding and racing, diving into the exciting world of BMX, or heading up into the hills for some mountain biking, there are a ton of ways to expand their skills and keep them in the saddle.

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In ancient times (i.e. the early 2000s) scammy websites would automatically open multiple windows with ads, which you then had to close one by one. It was obnoxious, which is why now every major browser stops sites from opening new windows by default. But websites found a workaround to show you ads or get you to sign to their newsletter: the overlay.

You’ve surely seen them, even if you never had a word for it before. Overlays cover up what you’re trying to read, watch, or access, generally asking you for an email address or some other piece of personal information. Most times their purpose is relatively harmless, but sometimes these boxes have dark patterns: deliberately confusing design that manipulates users to collect their personal information.

Fortunately, you can remove overlays by editing the HTML code of a webpage. You can do this manually in your browser if you want, but it’s a lot easier to use an extension especially designed for the job.

If you prefer, you can also use the app’s keyboard shortcut to trigger the extension: Ctrl + Shift + X on Windows, or Cmd + Shift + X on MacOS. If you’re a Chrome user, you can ditch the default key combo and set up your own. Head over to the extension settings page by clicking on the puzzle piece icon in the top right corner of the interface and choosing Manage extensions, or by typing Chrome://Extensions into the address bar. Click the three-line menu in the top-left corner of the screen and in the emerging sidebar, choose Keyboard shortcuts. Find the BehindTheOverlay extension and click the pen icon under it to edit the shortcut. 

This is a minimalistic tool but this level of simplicity has its downsides. There’s no way to automatically remove overlays, and if the extension doesn’t work on a particular site there’s not a lot you can do. Still, BehindTheOverlay works in most cases, which is why it’s worth trying out first.

The Aggressive mode will remove basically anything that follows you as you scroll. In some cases, this could even remove page elements such as headers, which is why there’s also a Moderate option. This is the extension’s default and tries to only remove the annoying layovers. Finally, there’s Dormant mode, which does nothing and it’s useful when the extension seems to be breaking the website you’re looking at.

PopUpOff is certainly the kind of tool you’ll need to spend some time tweaking, but once you’re done overlays will be a thing of the past and you won’t even think about them anymore.

Google, an advertising company, does not offer a reader mode in Chrome—at least, not without doing some digging through hidden settings. If you use the Big G’s browser, the Postlight Reader extension can add a reader mode to Chrome and even allow you to configure the font and text size of the article you’re reading.

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This article was originally featured on KFF Health News.

It was a regrettable mistake. But Kim Sylvester thought she was doing the right thing at the time.

Her 80-year-old mother, Harriet Burkel, had fallen at her home in Raleigh, North Carolina, fractured her pelvis, and gone to a rehabilitation center to recover. It was only days after the death of Burkel’s 82-year-old husband, who’d moved into a memory care facility three years before.

With growing distress, Sylvester had watched her mother, who had emphysema and peripheral artery disease, become increasingly frail and isolated. “I would say, ‘Can I help you?’ And my mother would say, ‘No, I can do this myself. I don’t need anything. I can handle it,’” Sylvester told me.

Now, Sylvester had a chance to get some more information. She let herself into her mother’s home and went through all the paperwork she could find. “It was a shambles — completely disorganized, bills everywhere,” she said. “It was clear things were out of control.”

Sylvester sprang into action, terminating her mother’s orders for anti-aging supplements, canceling two car warranty insurance policies (Burkel wasn’t driving at that point), ending a yearlong contract for knee injections with a chiropractor, and throwing out donation requests from dozens of organizations. When her mother found out, she was furious.

“I was trying to save my mother, but I became someone she couldn’t trust — the enemy. I really messed up,” Sylvester said.

Dealing with an older parent who stubbornly resists offers of help isn’t easy. But the solution isn’t to make an older person feel like you’re steamrolling them and taking over their affairs. What’s needed instead are respect, empathy, and appreciation of the older person’s autonomy.

“It’s hard when you see an older person making poor choices and decisions. But if that person is cognitively intact, you can’t force them to do what you think they should do,” said Anne Sansevero, president of the board of directors of the Aging Life Care Association, a national organization of care managers who work with older adults and their families. “They have a right to make choices for themselves.”

That doesn’t mean adult children concerned about an older parent should step aside or agree to everything the parent proposes. Rather, a different set of skills is needed.

Cheryl Woodson, an author and retired physician based in the Chicago area, learned this firsthand when her mother — whom Woodson described as a “very powerful” woman — developed mild cognitive impairment. She started getting lost while driving and would buy things she didn’t need then give them away.

Chastising her mother wasn’t going to work. “You can’t push people like my mother or try to take control,” Woodson told me. “You don’t tell them, ‘No, you’re wrong,’ because they changed your diapers and they’ll always be your mom.”

Instead, Woodson learned to appeal to her mother’s pride in being the family matriarch. “Whenever she got upset, I’d ask her, ‘Mother, what year was it that Aunt Terri got married?’ or ‘Mother, I don’t remember how to make macaroni. How much cheese do you put in?’ And she’d forget what she was worked up about and we’d just go on from there.”

Woodson, author of “To Survive Caregiving: A Daughter’s Experience, a Doctor’s Advice,” also learned to apply a “does it really matter to safety or health?” standard to her mother’s behavior. It helped Woodson let go of her sometimes unreasonable expectations. One example she related: “My mother used to shake hot sauce on pancakes. It would drive my brother nuts, but she was eating, and that was good.”

“You don’t want to rub their nose into their incapacity,” said Woodson, whose mother died in 2003.

Barry Jacobs, a clinical psychologist and family therapist, sounded similar themes in describing a psychiatrist in his late 70s who didn’t like to bend to authority. After his wife died, the older man stopped shaving and changing his clothes regularly. Though he had diabetes, he didn’t want to see a physician and instead prescribed medicine for himself. Even after several strokes compromised his vision, he insisted on driving.

Jacobs’ take: “You don’t want to go toe-to-toe with someone like this, because you will lose. They’re almost daring you to tell them what to do so they can show you they won’t follow your advice.”

What’s the alternative? “I would employ empathy and appeal to this person’s pride as a basis for handling adversity or change,” Jacobs said. “I might say something along the lines of, ‘I know you don’t want to stop driving and that this will be very painful for you. But I know you have faced difficult, painful changes before and you’ll find your way through this.’”

“You’re appealing to their ideal self rather than treating them as if they don’t have the right to make their own decisions anymore,” he explained. In the older psychiatrist’s case, conflict with his four children was constant, but he eventually stopped driving.

Another strategy that can be useful: “Show up, but do it in a way that’s face-saving,” Jacobs said. Instead of asking your father if you can check in on him, “Go to his house and say, ‘The kids really wanted to see you. I hope you don’t mind.’ Or, ‘We made too much food. I hope you don’t mind my bringing it over.’ Or, ‘I wanted to stop by. I hope you can give me some advice about this issue that’s on my mind.’”

This psychiatrist didn’t have any cognitive problems, though he wasn’t as sharp as he used to be. But encroaching cognitive impairment often colors difficult family interactions.

If you think this might be a factor with your parent, instead of trying to persuade them to accept more help at home, try to get them medically evaluated, said Leslie Kernisan, author of “When Your Aging Parent Needs Help: A Geriatrician’s Step-by-Step Guide to Memory Loss, Resistance, Safety Worries, and More.”

“Decreased brain function can affect an older adult’s insight and judgment and ability to understand the risks of certain actions or situations, while also making people suspicious and defensive,” she noted.

This doesn’t mean you should give up on talking to an older parent with mild cognitive impairment or early-stage dementia, however. “You always want to give the older adult a chance to weigh in and talk about what’s important to them and their feelings and concerns,” Kernisan said.

“If you frame your suggestions as a way of helping your parent achieve a goal they’ve said was important, they tend to be much more receptive to it,” she said.

A turning point for Sylvester and her mother came when the older woman, who developed dementia, went to a nursing home at the end of 2021. Her mother, who at first didn’t realize the move was permanent, was furious, and Sylvester waited two months before visiting. When she finally walked into Burkel’s room, bearing a Valentine’s Day wreath, Burkel hugged her and said, “I’m so glad to see you,” before pulling away. “But I’m so mad at my other daughter.”

Sylvester, who doesn’t have a sister, responded, “I know, Mom. She meant well, but she didn’t handle things properly.” She learned the value of what she calls a “therapeutic fiblet” from Kernisan, who ran a family caregiver group Sylvester attended between 2019 and 2021.

After that visit, Sylvester saw her mother often, and all was well between the two women up until Burkel’s death. “If something was upsetting my mother, I would just go, ‘Interesting,’ or, ‘That’s a thought.’ You have to give yourself time to remember this is not the person you used to know and create the person you need to be your parent, who’s changed so much.”

KFF Health News is a national newsroom that produces in-depth journalism about health issues and is one of the core operating programs at KFF—an independent source of health policy research, polling, and journalism. Learn more about KFF.

The post How to get through to your aging parents without arguing appeared first on Popular Science.

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THE INTERNET is vast, and we all have our own ideas about how we want to interact with it: Some livestream their every move, while others keep their daily activities to themselves. This would be perfectly fine if we all lived on our own isolated virtual islands, but we most definitely don’t.

When we share something about ourselves online, we’re also revealing details about those around us—just ask the victims of the Cambridge Analytica scandal, or the incredibly private people who’ve had their real identities revealed by TikTok sleuths. It’s beyond time we started looking at online privacy not as a personal decision, but as a collective issue.

To keep this conversation going, the Opt Out has created a code of conduct everyone could abide by. Of course, we can’t actually control what you do online, but we can help you understand that your actions on the internet have offline consequences, often for people other than you. 

So read these rules, take what applies to your life, and share it with your friends. The more people think about how everyone’s data and personal information is connected via the web, the more attainable privacy will be for all of us. 

1. Consent is king 

Consent is crucial to respecting people’s boundaries. Before you share a photo, a video, a personal story, or anything that depicts or describes someone else, ask them if they’re comfortable with you posting it. 

This includes images in which they’re featured prominently, as well as those where they’re visible only in the background, so be careful when you pan your camera—you might be unwittingly outing a secret relationship people have been speculating about for months. But it’s not only about images: You should also ask for permission when sharing written posts that include a person’s name or details that might identify them. You’ll want to be especially careful with information people might use to contact the person mentioned in your post, like their email address, phone number, location, and place of employment. You don’t want to inadvertently help stalkers get closer to their victims.  

[Related on PopSci+: When you should and shouldn’t accept a website’s cookies]

Content involving children is particularly sensitive. If you’re not the parent or guardian, make sure you ask the person who is before you hit publish. Even if they agree, consider hiding the kids’ faces as much as possible. 

Finally, just don’t post about someone who’s intoxicated, asleep, unconscious, or unable to provide clear consent. In fact, don’t take any pictures or videos of them at all—that’s just creepy.

2. Think carefully about filming or recording random people on the street

Listen, we agree with you: It’s not OK to be mean to people. And as much as you might enjoy the occasional Karen video, you should know that filming people like that is also not OK.

There can be truly good intentions behind such footage, and videos of rude people have probably made some viewers reconsider how they treat others. But once a video is online, you lose control over it. TikTok users have built followings by finding anyone they believe deserves comeuppance and calling their employer to get them fired or reprimanded. Others go even further and dox them, resulting in disproportionate consequences for them and their loved ones, including stalking, harassment, and even assault. Social media rarely makes the distinction between a truly awful person and someone who’s just making a huge mistake. 

That said, there are exceptions. Sometimes whipping out your phone and hitting record could help bring justice to a victim of assault, a hit-and-run, or even murder. Use your judgment to gauge whether you’re in an extreme situation like that and stop to think about the best way you can help—it may be filming at your own personal risk, but it may also be calling 911 or attracting the attention of other bystanders. 

And if you choose to hit that red square on your screen, you’ll have to figure out what to do with the video once you have it. In the great majority of cases, you shouldn’t publish it to social media. The harm you cause when the video leaves your control may be magnitudes greater than whatever clout, following, or emotional boost you gained by posting it. The rare exceptions include when you want to help someone but can’t contact them because they were arrested or removed in an ambulance. Even then, you may want to take some time to see if you can track them down and hand the material over personally.

Keep in mind that even in a court of law, your footage will take on a life of its own once it leaves your hands. Despite your best intentions, your video may not have the effect or result you intended it to.  

3. Don’t share one-to-one messages

As a general rule, treat all texts, photos, and videos you get through one-on-one chats and private message groups with the same care an international spy treats confidential orders from their handler. The people sending those messages meant for you alone to see them, so you shouldn’t send or show them to anybody else. The best example of this is nudes: If you get one, you can save or delete it, but that’s all.

4. Share contact information only when it’s consensual or public

A lot of people have their contact information on websites or their social media accounts. For example, you can email a PopSci writer by clicking the letter icon in their bio at the bottom of a story. This allows readers to send us comments and questions.

But that doesn’t mean other contact information is also public. If you need to disclose someone’s contact information, share only what’s publicly available on their official channels. If they have none listed, always ask them before you share their contact information: Tell them what you plan on sharing and with whom, and proceed only once they say they’re OK with it.  

5. Avoid revealing more information than you need to 

Sometimes we share more information than we think we’re sharing. Without realizing it, your long-awaited unboxing might have given all your followers your home address, and an innocent photo with your colleagues taken during lunch might have revealed your place of employment just because one person forgot to take off their badge.  

This is bad enough when it comes to your own information, let alone when it involves others. So be careful with what you share and look out for details about yourself and the people around you that reveal more than you’d like. 

Be careful with pictures featuring packing labels, official documents, license plates, and boarding passes—if you must share them, blur or cover sensitive information. Don’t forget the background—you’d be amazed at how much you can learn about someone by pausing a video and peeking at their corkboard. You should also take a good look at screenshots before posting, as they may include location data or even a rogue notification you didn’t notice popped up at just the wrong time. When taking photos near windows or outside, pay attention to landmarks, street signs, and anything else that might make your location evident. If you want to go the extra mile, consider erasing the metadata from image files before posting or sharing them online.

Finally, mind the words you use and avoid those that describe a direct affiliation with someone. Going back to that lunch with your colleagues, a sweet post about how much you like them might reveal a lot more than your appreciation for them. Just calling them colleagues reveals everyone’s place of employment (remember that one who didn’t take off their badge?) and if you mention how happy they’ve all made you for the past three years, viewers now have an approximate period of employment. It might not be a lot of information, but it accumulates with every post. 

6. It’s OK not to share your passwords with your partner. It’s also OK if you do. 

You have the right to privacy, and you don’t owe your partner unlimited access to your accounts. Lots of couples share their credentials for the sake of transparency and practicality, but that’s not necessarily a sign of a good and healthy relationship.

[Related on PopSci+: Stop choosing bad passwords, already]

Whether you share your passwords and passcodes with your significant other is your decision and yours alone. If you feel comfortable doing it and think it might make the relationship better, go for it. Just know that you should be able to keep your own space and say no if your partner asks you to open that door.

7. You’re the only one responsible for setting your boundaries

You may have someone in your life who’s very much online—the one who takes a picture of everything and posts multiple updates on social media throughout the day. So the next time you go out with this person and they whip out their phone to take a group picture, don’t just hide from the lens—take some time to have a conversation about what you’re OK with when it comes to being featured in someone else’s online posts. 

They may not understand or agree with your stance at first, and you might have to have the same conversation more than once. But you cannot expect to be comfortable going out with them if they don’t know what you want. Setting boundaries will make it easier for your friend to respect your needs and for you to enforce them. 

8.  Post about what you’re doing but not whom you’re with 

We understand if you don’t feel like having a conversation about online privacy as your food is making its way to your table. It’s a bit boring and certainly not the reason you and your friends got together. So if you haven’t had a conversation about expectations and boundaries when it comes to social presence, you should feel free to post about whatever you’re doing—just as long as you don’t disclose whom you are with.  

The idea is to include only you, the one person definitely providing consent to appear on social media. If someone else also consents, you may include them as well, but be mindful of those who opt out—don’t include them in group photos, and don’t tag or mention them. Be careful to leave out any identifying details, such as tattoos, cars, or anything that might hint at whom you’re out and about with.

9. No consent, no tag

Some people may be comfortable with appearing in your posts but not with you including a link to their social media account or accounts. Again, just ask them what they feel comfortable with. 

This rule also applies to other situations like contests, promotions, friends’ posts, and even using hashtags. Most social media platforms group hashtags and generally make identically tagged content easily accessible to people who may or may not be directly connected to us. For someone who wants to keep to themselves, this can be an unwanted reservoir of information about them.

10. Consent can be given and consent can be taken away

Your friend’s priorities regarding privacy may have changed since the last time you saw them. Even if they frequently post to Instagram and you think they’ll have no problem with you sharing a photo, don’t assume, and always ask them before you post. 

[Related: Everything you need to cure your smartphone addiction]

Tell them what you plan to write as a caption, if you’re planning to mention them, and make them feel comfortable by showing them the picture or post before hitting publish. Give them veto power and options.

And if you’re going to make assumptions about how someone feels about popping up on your timeline, it’s always a good idea to err on the side of caution. Assume the person beside you is private and doesn’t want anything about them online, until you learn otherwise. 

Read more PopSci+ stories.

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AI chatbots such as ChatGPT and Google Bard have now reached a level where they can write emails, essays, and entire books. There’s an ongoing debate on how good that content actually is, but these platforms can certainly give a passable impression of a human being when it comes to creating copy.

That’s a problem when it comes to proving you wrote a particular document, whether you’re submitting a college essay or entering a short story competition. Right now, we don’t have a reliable way of detecting AI-generated text (ChatGPT can’t tell if ChatGPT has written something), but there are some options you can explore.

One is to track the changes to your document as you create it in your program of choice. It’s not a foolproof option, as you could still manually type out any output from ChatGPT or Bard, but it does at least show whoever’s reading your document how it came together, if they ever want to check.

When it comes to passing on your work to someone else, you need to use the built-in Google Docs sharing feature: Click Share on the right to grant access or to get a link you can copy and paste into an email or chat box. If you save your work as a Word document or a PDF, the version history won’t be transferred over to the file.

Note that whoever you’re sharing your document with will have to log into a Google account to access it, and you’ll have to give them Editor permissions too. If the other person opens the document anonymously via a link, or only has Viewer or Commenter permissions, then won’t have access to the version history, and won’t be able to see that the document is all your own work.

By default, the software will underline new text and color it red, but you can change this by clicking All Markup on the Review tab: Choose Simple Markup to have edits highlighted in the margin rather than in the body of the text, or No Markup to turn off highlighting altogether. Whether the highlights are visible or not, you can click Reviewing Pane (or Reviewing on macOS) on the Review tab to see all the document revisions. The person reading your work will be able to see all of the edits you made to the document in the same way, demonstrating it’s your own work.

The second option is to save your Word file to your OneDrive account and share it via a link, which is the more modern, Google Docs-style approach. While the Track Changes option is still available, you can also click the name of the document at the top of the window, then Version History, to view (and revert to) previous versions of the document.

Go to File, then Share, and you can generate a link for the file to pass on: Make sure the recipient has editing privileges and can sign in with their own Microsoft account. They’ll then be able to access the version history of a document by clicking on its title, whether they open it on the web or in Word for desktop. As long as the file is in your OneDrive account, version history will be available.

If you’re using Pages on a Mac, open the File menu then Revert To and Browse All Versions to see previous versions of the document (and revert back to them if needed). If you’re using Pages on iCloud on the web, click the three dots (top right) and then Browse All Versions. Anyone you’re sharing the document with has the same options available to them, as long as you’ve granted them editing privileges.

The post Prove your writing is not AI-generated by tracking changes in your docs appeared first on Popular Science.

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Joel Cramer was at the pool with his kids when another dad, competing in a big splash contest, got up onto the diving board. He bounced up once, and when he landed on the board for the second time, his quadriceps muscle tore. “It rolled up his leg and balled up near the top of his thigh,” says Cramer, a professor of exercise physiology at the University of Nebraska. “[It was] like rolling up a window shade.”

That’s an extreme (and extremely rare) example of a muscle strain, a common injury that happens to high school soccer stars, recreational runners, and middle-aged racquetball players alike. “Strain” is the medical term for the condition, though it’s colloquially known as a pulled muscle. The term is a catch-all that covers everything from a small twinge to a full-on rupture.

What we call a “tear” and what we coin a “pull or strain” all boil down to the same type of injury: A rip to some part of the muscle. But some are worse than others. A mild or “grade one” strain—what many people call a “pulled muscle”—happens when you tear about 5 percent of the fibers in a particular muscle. This typically feels like an uncomfortable twinge that may force you off the court for a few weeks. A moderate sprain involves a higher percentage of fibers, and might sideline you for a month or more. A full rupture severs the muscle entirely, and usually requires surgery to repair.

[Related: Why do my muscles ache the day after a big workout?]

Okay, but how exactly do these tears occur? And why do some instances result in more muscle fiber damage than others? Cramer says three major factors contribute to this muscle busting. Muscles that cover two joints, like the hamstring which extends across the hip and knee joints, are at the highest risk. That’s because having both joints moving and stretching the muscle simultaneously adds tension, which can lead to strains.

Muscles are also more likely to strain while they are contracting. At this point, muscles are shortening and lengthening at the same time. During a dumbbell curl, for example, raising the weight up towards the shoulder compresses the bicep, and lowering it back down stretches it back out again. The muscle can create and sustain much more force during the lengthening portion of the activity, says Cramer, which makes it easier for it to strain.

Finally, muscles that have a higher proportion of fast-twitch to slow-twitch fibers strain more readily. Fast-twitch fibers contract quickly and generate more power, says Cramer. For that reason, they are the ones recruited for explosive tasks like sprinting. “It’s relatively uncommon for slow twitch [muscles] to strain,” he says. “They’re used to being active all the time.”

Technically, Cramer says, it’s possible to strain any of the skeletal muscles in your body. “For some, it’s not physiologically impossible, just very highly unlikely,” he says. “You’re probably not going to strain deep muscles with very specific functions.” The muscles in the finger, for example, are probably not going to cause much trouble, since they only have one task and don’t do much heavy lifting.

[Related: How to get muscle gains: A beginner’s guide to becoming buff]

Low flexibility and range of motion are major factors at risk for muscle strain, says Cramer. Despite the popular belief that larger muscles are tighter, Cramer says greater muscle mass is actually associated with greater give. “There’s evidence to suggest that weight training done with a good range of motion increases flexibility,” he says. And even though it may not seem like it when you’re struggling to touch your toes, Cramer says most people can teach their body to be springy enough to do the splits. So, to help keep your muscle fibers intact—pick up the weights and don’t skip your stretching routine, no matter how tedious it is.

How does a pulled muscle heal?

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Software updates are crucial to the health of your various gadgets and it’s generally in your best interest to install them as soon as they’re available. Apple knows this so they introduced a different type of software update called Rapid Security Response. These patches run separately from the usual iOS or macOS updates and work in a slightly different way.

If you see a Rapid Security Response notification on one of your Apple devices, don’t panic—it’s there to keep your device safe and secure.

Behind the more showy, user-facing upgrades, these updates also do a lot of important work under the hood in improving security and stability. The problem is that sometimes significant security issues come to light and need to be addressed immediately rather than in a few weeks or months.

That’s where Rapid Security Responses come in. Apple can send out these patches whenever they need to so that security vulnerabilities don’t stay vulnerable for long. The company says these responses could help “mitigate some security issues more quickly,” particularly those that pose a current risk. The company is now sending these updates to iPhones, iPads, and Macs running iOS 16.4.1, iPadOS 16.4.1, or macOS 13.3.1 or later. If you haven’t already, make sure to update your operating system to receive them.

For the good health of your Apple gadget, we strongly recommend you authorize these automatic updates, but if you feel strongly about preventing software from installing without your consent, you can stop Rapid Security Responses. To go about it, open the Settings on your iPhone or iPad and choose General, Software Update, and Automatic Updates. Once there, toggle off the Security Responses & System Files option. On a Mac computer, open the Apple menu, then select System Settings, General, and Software Update. Click the info button next to Automatic updates to find the Install Security Responses and system files option and toggle it off.

When your Apple device installs a Rapid Security Response, the iOS, iPadOS, or macOS version number will have a lowercase letter after it—so “macOS Ventura Version 13.3.1 (a)” for example. To check this, go to Settings on an iPhone or iPad, or to System Settings on a Mac, and choose General, and then About. You’ll notice that, unlike normal software updates, these special security patches don’t come with any details about what they’ve fixed, presumably in the interests of speed and security.

[Related: Smart ways to manage software updates on Windows and macOS]

If you’ve disabled these automatic updates, you can still manually check for Rapid Security Responses in the same way as you would for any other update: Just go to General and Software Update in the settings on your Apple device. Any Rapid Security Responses your device doesn’t apply immediately will be rolled into the next standard software update, but we strongly advise you to protect your device by installing them as soon as they appear.

The post What to know about Apple’s new Rapid Security Response updates appeared first on Popular Science.

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TO MAINTAIN a healthy level of physical fitness, everyone should commit to at least 30 minutes of moderate aerobic exercise or strength training a day. That’s easier said than done. With running errands, working a desk job, and fulfilling family obligations, the modern lifestyle does not leave much time for regular exercise. If you do prioritize working out, you might still be neglecting key muscle groups that support posture, movement, and overall health. Keep reading for a list of the most ignored ones, exercises to strengthen them, and the reasons you might need more variety in your routine. 

Healthy fitness goals

Before you start switching up your workouts, Christopher Geiser, an exercise science professor, physical therapist, and trainer at Marquette University, has a few important reminders.

First, “If you’re having trouble, don’t wait too long to get help,” he warns. Physical therapists and trainers can design a regimen specific to your needs. Everybody’s built a little differently, and unique personal histories make it difficult to give general advice. Working out various areas of the body with different types of activities is a surefire way to improve health. Remember to start off slow and careful if you haven’t exercised in a while—too much too soon might backfire on your muscles. 

Second, it’s important to know the difference between exercising for overall health and exercising for performance. “If you wanna be healthy, then you’re trying to get as variable activity with a nice even distribution of the loading across different areas as you can,” Geiser says. 

In contrast, “If you’re trying to run the Boston Marathon, you’ve got a really specific something that you’re working on and [your exercise regimen] is going to focus on that,” he explains. “And it isn’t always the most healthy for you.”

In other words, don’t sacrifice your wellbeing for better performance. “You want a balance across all of the conditioning exercises that you’re doing,” Geiser says. “And that variability across your system is probably what’s gonna give you the most bang for your buck healthwise.”

Target muscle area no. 1: Rotator cuffs

The rotator cuff is a group of four muscles and their connected tendons that attach the shoulder blade to the upper arm, stabilizing the shoulder and allowing 360-degree movement. Strengthening the area can prevent shoulder injuries, some of which can lead to permanent loss of function. 

If you already have shoulder pain or a rotator cuff injury, however, you could exacerbate it by exercising those muscles. See a medical professional for treatment instead.

Recommended exercises:

• Doorway stretches
• Reverse flies with dumbbells
• Wall angels 

Target muscle area no. 2: Abdominal core and back

In addition to helping you avoid accidents from, say, moving furniture, having a strong core boosts posture, balance, and movement. Each abdominal muscle has to work in harmony to control your back and pelvis, although “you don’t necessarily need them to do a lot of your everyday activities,” Geiser says. “But when you do need them, they’re not always in shape and ready to go.” 

Recommended exercises:

• Planks
• Bridges
• Deadlifts

Target muscle area no. 3: Neck flexors

These deep muscle groups rest in the front of the neck and are responsible for holding its position, contributing to posture. “We abuse the flexors when we stare at computer screens with our head forward all the time,” Geiser says. “They are notoriously weak because we haven’t built them up.” 

If you’re experiencing neck pain after staring down at a phone or laptop for a long period, it might be worth it to train these muscles. And at the same time, remind yourself to straighten out your posture while doom-scrolling on the couch or working at a desk.

Recommended exercises:

• Supine neck retractions
• Active assisted neck flexions
• Supine cervical flexions

Target muscle area no. 4: Glutes

Though they get a lot of attention, the muscles underlying your butt are often improperly exercised. Strengthening your glutes helps with proper body alignment, movement, and athletic edge. Weak glutes can cause other areas of the body, such as the lower back or knees, to overcompensate when you’re walking, running, or climbing stairs. A stronger set also corrects posture and spinal alignment, reducing the risk of back pain and injuries.  

Recommended exercises:

• Squats
• Lunges
• Bridges

Target muscle area no. 5: Tendons

Most casual gymgoers don’t think of flexing these parts. Tendons aren’t muscles: They’re connective tissue that attaches muscles to bones, controlling movement of the skeleton. While they’re strong and flexible, injuries can occur from overuse, repetitive strain, or aging. Tendon-specific training can improve joint health, reduce pain and stiffness, and promote speed and agility. Use two different types of exercises to strengthen them—prolonged weight holds and quick, fast contractions—but not in the same workout. Vary your routine daily to keep from overloading these crucial parts, and be sure to take at least one day off from working out each week.

Recommended exercises:

• Eccentric movements
• Isometric movements
• Plyometric movements

Read more PopSci+ stories.

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If you’re reading this, you’ve either encountered several pages claiming they know exactly how to remove sticker residue, or this is your first one. Either way, we don’t think you’ll have to look further. 

There are a lot of options for getting sticker residue off of surfaces, but all of them fall under one of three types of approaches: mechanical, chemical, or thermal. Understanding how each of these works will provide you with the best chance at vanquishing your sticky enemy.

A warning before we begin: there’s no one type of adhesive you’ll find behind a sticker, so results may vary. Also, all of the following methods have caveats, and you may risk damaging the surface underneath the sticker. Use your judgment to determine the best approach in your specific case, and always do a small test in an inconspicuous area to make sure you’re not damaging the underlying material.

You might be tempted to use your nails, but we advise against it, as they might break or get pulled back, and you definitely don’t want that. You also shouldn’t use a tool made out of metal, like a sharp kitchen knife. Not only is it dangerous, but you could damage the surface under the sticker.

[Related: The five smells Americans hate most (and how to get rid of them)]

Instead, opt for a less abrasive tool like a dull plastic knife or a hard plastic spatula. If your sticker is paper, a rubber eraser can be incredibly useful. And before you go to town with it, try your scraper in a small, inconspicuous area. Start gently and use incremental force to see if there’s any damage to the surface beneath. The moment you notice you’re scratching more than you’d like, stop and try another approach.

Scratching is a good idea if you’re trying to get sticker residue off glass, metal, or another hard, sturdy surface. But continue to be careful, as you always risk removing way more than adhesive gunk: paint, enamel, or even a functional coating like Teflon may go with it. 

This approach is usually a great place to start, but it often won’t be enough to complete the job—especially if you reach a point where you’re not able to push that stickiness away. 

To use oil to remove sticker residue, choose one of the substances mentioned above and soak the surface in it, if possible. Peanut butter and mayonnaise have the added benefit of being able to hold their shape, so a dollop of either will be able to stay in place for longer, giving you more control over the affected area. If you don’t have any of these foods at home, you can also use WD-40. It’s not an oil, but the product specializes in water displacement (that’s what the “WD” is for!), so it’ll dissolve water-repellent adhesives. If gravity is working against you, use a rag or sponge to dab some oil on the sticker residue until it’s saturated. Let it sit for a couple of minutes, then use a clean rag, paper towel, or sponge with some water and dish soap to rub the residue off. The detergent will trap the fatty gunk, and the area will become squeaky clean as you rinse. 

Oils work better on non-porous surfaces because there’s nothing to absorb them, and you should absolutely not use them if you want to get sticker residue off clothes—they will definitely leave a stain. 

A word of warning though: alcohol (no matter its concentration) and acetone are powerful solvents and can be corrosive, especially on plastics and treated woods. There’s a reason specialists don’t recommend using alcohol to clean your gadgets’ screens, and if acetone can help remove an ever-resistant gel manicure, you can be sure it’ll remove a whole lot of other things, too. Finally, be careful when removing stickers from electronics, as rubbing alcohol has water in it. 

If you want to make sure you won’t destroy the surface you’ll be working on, make sure you do a patch test in an inconspicuous place. Apply the liquid you’re using with a cotton swab and let it sit for 15 to 20 minutes. Look at the surface and touch it with your fingers to make sure there’s no noticeable damage. Keep in mind there can always be damage you can’t see or feel, so if you’re dealing with a delicate material or something that might be expensive to fix, it’s better to abstain.  

But the fact that vinegar is natural doesn’t mean there are no caveats. Acetic acid is perfectly capable of damaging surfaces, so avoid using it on cast iron, waxed wood, aluminum, stoneware, or marble. That being said, if you’re working with ceramic or glass surfaces, white vinegar may be all you need to say goodbye to sticker gunk.

Vinegar is also the best way to remove sticker residue from clothes and other textiles: Saturate the area and let it sit for a few minutes, then use a toothbrush or a scraping tool to get rid of the loose adhesive. Repeat the process as necessary. If that doesn’t work, you can also try this technique with nail polish remover. Don’t use acetone, though: this strong chemical won’t just stain your clothes, it might burn a hole through them, depending on the fabric they’re made of. Some nail polish removers can stain and bleach fabrics, but it’ll depend on which one you use and the type of textile you’re dealing with. To be safe, do a patch test to make sure the solution is not worse than the problem. 

When it comes to removing sticker residue, you can use temperature to your favor by submerging or carefully exposing the material to boiled water for a few minutes. Protect your hands to prevent burning them, remove the item from the water, and use the scratchy side of a sponge with some dish soap to remove the remnants. Repeat the process if necessary. 

You can also use a hair dryer: Set it to high, keep it 2 inches away, and aim it directly at the affected area for 30 seconds. Turn off the appliance and carefully try removing the remaining gunk—it’ll be hot. If you can safely touch it, use your fingers, or grab a scraping tool if it won’t damage the underlying surface. If the sticker residue won’t budge or if there’s still some left, repeat the process. 

[Related: Use citric acid to clean your dishwasher and other gross household items]

As with all the approaches mentioned above, heat has its caveats, too. For example, if you’re removing sticker residue from a metal surface, make sure to protect yourself and handle the item carefully, as it might get dangerously hot during the process. If you’re lifting adhesive gunk from glass or ceramics, make sure they’re heat-resistant, as pouring hot water on them might break them. Needless to say, hot water is not the best approach when dealing with electronics, but then again, neither is dry heat. Normally, hair dryers shouldn’t produce enough heat at a 2-inch distance to damage hard plastic surfaces, but that will depend on which one you have. To be on the safe side, keep an eye on your work and stop immediately if you see any lifting, warping, or bubbling.

The post How to use science to remove sticker residue appeared first on Popular Science.

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Disaster has struck—a nasty piece of malware has taken root on your computer, and you need to remove it. Viruses can cause serious damage, but you might be able to get your computer back on its feet without too much difficulty, thanks to an array of helpful tools.

We’re using the term malware to refer to all kinds of malicious programs, whether they’re viruses, ransomware, adware, or something else. Each of these threats has its own definition, but the terms are often used interchangeably and can mean different things to different people. So for simplicity’s sake, when we say malware, we mean everything you don’t want on your computer, from a virus that tries to delete your files to an adware program that’s tracking your web browsing.

With so many types of malware and so many different system setups out there, we can’t cover every scenario. Still, we can give you some general malware removal pointers that should help you get the assistance you need.

First, identify the problem

When malware hits, you sometimes get a threatening error message—but sometimes you don’t. So keep an eye out for red flags, such as an uncharacteristically slow computer, a web browser inundated by endless pop-ups, and applications that just keep crashing.

Most machines have some kind of antivirus security protection, even if it’s just the Windows Defender tool built into Windows 10 or 11. Extra security software isn’t as essential on macOS—its integrated defenses are very effective—but that doesn’t mean a clever bit of malware can’t get access.

If you do have a security tool installed, make sure you keep it up to date. Then, when you suspect you’ve been hit, run a thorough system scan—the app itself should have instructions for how to do so. This is always the first step in weeding out unwanted programs.

[Related: How to make sure no one is spying on your computer]

You might find that your installed security software spots the problem and effectively removes the malware it on its own. In that case, you can get on with watching Netflix or checking your email without further interference. Unfortunately, if your antivirus software of choice doesn’t see anything wrong or can’t deal with what it’s found, you have more work to do.

Deal with specific threats

If your computer is displaying specific symptoms—such as a message with a particular error code or a threatening ransomware alert—run a web search to get more information. And if you suspect your main machine is infected and potentially causing problems with your web browser, you should search for answers on your phone or another computer.

Telling you to search online for help may seem like we’re trying to pass the buck, but this is often the best way to deal with the biggest and newest threats. To remove malware that has overwhelmed your computer’s built-in virus protections, you’ll probably need to follow specific instructions. Otherwise, you could inadvertently make the situation worse.

As soon as new threats are identified, security firms are quick to publish fixes and tools. This means it’s important to stay in touch with the latest tech news as it happens. If your existing antivirus program is coming up blank, check online to see if companies have released bespoke repair tools that you can use to deal with whatever problem you’re having.

Finally, based on what your research and antivirus scans tell you, consider disconnecting your computer from the internet to stop any bugs from spreading, or shutting down your machine completely to protect against file damage.

Tools such as Microsoft Safety Scanner, Spybot Search and Destroy, Bitdefender Virus Scanner (also for macOS), Kaspersky Security Scan, Avira PC Cleaner, Malwarebytes, and others can parachute onto your system for extra support. There, they’ll troubleshoot problems and give your existing security tools a helping hand.

All of the apps listed above will do a thorough job of scanning your computer and removing any malware they find. To make extra sure, you can always run scans from a couple of different tools. If your computer has been infected, these apps will most likely be able to spot the problem and deal with it, or at least give you further instructions.

Once your existing security tools and an on-demand scanner or two have given your system a clean bill of health, you’re probably (though not definitely) in the clear. That means that any continued errors or crashes could be due to other factors—anything from a badly installed update to a failing hard drive.

A more drastic—but extremely effective—course of action is to wipe your computer, reinstall your operating system, and start again from scratch. Although this will delete all your personal files, it should hopefully remove malware and other unwanted programs at the same time. Before you take this step, make sure all your important files and folders are backed up somewhere else, and ensure that you’ll be able to download all your applications again.

Reinstalling the operating system and getting your computer back to its factory condition is actually much easier than it used to be. We have our own guide for resetting Windows 10 and 11, and Apple has instructions for macOS. If you need more pointers, you can find plenty of extra information online.

That’s it! Through a combination of bespoke removal methods, existing security software, on-demand scanners, and (if necessary) a system wipe, you should now have effectively removed whatever malware had taken root on your system. At this point, if you’re still struggling, it’s time to call in the experts. IT repair specialists in your area may be able to lend a hand.

Next, install a solid security tool you can trust. For Windows 10 and 11, the built-in Windows Defender program is a competent antivirus tool even if you don’t add anything else. That said, you can opt to bolster your machine’s defenses by paying for extra software from the likes of Norton, Avast, and many others. While the number of shady programs targeting Apple computers is on the rise, they’re still more secure than Windows machines. The general consensus is that macOS is mostly safe from harm, provided you only install programs through the App Store and apply plenty of common sense. That means you should avoid following shady links or plugging in strange USB drives you’ve found lying in the street.

Finally, make sure your software is always patched and up to date. Most browsers and operating systems will update automatically in the background, but you can check for pending patches on Windows 10 by opening Settings and clicking Update & security (on Windows 11 it’s Settings > Windows Update). If you have a macOS computer, just open up the App Store and switch to the Updates tab to see if anything is available that you haven’t downloaded.

The post How to remove malware from your suffering computer appeared first on Popular Science.

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The most irrigated crop in the US isn’t a particularly tasty one. Nationwide, lawn grass takes up a total area bigger than the size of Georgia, and requires more than 300 gallons of watering per household a day. “These turf grasses have really short roots, so they require nearly a constant input of water,” says Becky Barak, a conservation scientist at the Chicago Botanic Garden and leader of the Rethinking Lawns Project.

The traditional American lawn, which often holds non-native species from Africa, Asia, and Europe, can be great for kids and dogs to run around on. But there are tons of native plantings that decrease water and pesticide use, reduce time and energy spent on mowing, absorb stormwater, and provide real habitat for wildlife. Not to mention, they make an incredible backdrop in the process. “Some native grasses can be mowed to look more like traditional turf grasses,” Barak says. “But then there are others that are beautiful and can add so much visual appeal and a totally different look.”

[Related: What to consider before ripping out your lawn]

When it comes to choosing types of grass, there are thousands of choices. “They can be all different colors of the rainbow,” Barak says. That might sound overwhelming, but don’t worry—you can narrow down the list by browsing local native nurseries and regional university guides. (Remember to check the soil type in your yard and find plants that match.) Once you have some options that work for your space, no matter how tiny, you’ll be well on your way to creating the native landscape of your dreams. Here are nine beloved varieties to get you started.

Short grasses

Buffalo grass (Bouteloua dactyloides)

• Native range: Central US
• Height: 3 to 10 inches
• Light: full sun
• Water use: low to medium

If you’re looking for a native grass that still keeps the lawn feel, look no further than buffalo grass. Named after the American bison that once grazed all over the Great Plains, this drought-tolerant turf grass is a popular choice for lawns for its sod-forming abilities. You can mow it infrequently or never if you prefer the slightly taller look. Although buffalo grass can survive without irrigation, it may lose some of its color in periods of drought and dormancy. Mix the seeds with other low-growing options for sustained greenery, or consider using a buffalo grass cultivar that’s bred for more consistent color.

Curly mesquite grass (Hilaria belangeri)

• Native range: Southwestern US
• Height: 4 to 12 inches
• Light: full sun
• Water use: low

Another popular turf grass for drought tolerance, this species is the perfect choice for desert and desert-like environments. It’s considered to be one of the best lawn options out of native grasses in the US, though its range is limited to Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas. Curly mesquite grass can grow in a variety of well-drained soils but works best in clay loam.

Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pensylvanica)

• Native range: Eastern and Midwestern US
• Height: 6 to 12 inches
• Light: part to full shade
• Water use: low to medium

Although Pennsylvania sedge isn’t technically a grass, its grass-like appearance makes it a great choice for homeowners looking to make their yard more native without losing the lush carpeted look. The plant offers good ground cover, spreads well, and deters deer from grazing. In the fall, this delicate, windswept-looking sedge turns from vibrant green to tan.

Medium grasses

Purple lovegrass (Eragrostis spectabilis)

• Native range: along the East Coast from Maine to Florida, west to Arizona
• Height: 8 to 18 inches
• Light: full sun
• Water use: low

Purple lovegrass, one of Barak’s favorites, adds the perfect pop of color to your lawn. The heat-tolerant plant really starts to shine in August, when it forms an inflorescence of purple-red flowers that seemingly float on the grass like a cloud of color. Though it can be damaged by heavy foot traffic, the grass stays relatively short, only needs to be mowed a few times throughout the year, and is deer-resistant.

[Related: This lawn-mowing robot can save part of your yard for pollinators]

“Hatchita” blue grama (Bouteloua gracilis)

• Native range: Western and Central US
• Height: 8 to 20 inches
• Light: full sun
• Water use: low to medium

Along with buffalo grass and curly mesquite grass, this type of grass completes the trifecta of popular native turf choices in the US, but is even more drought tolerant than the other two members of the big three. It’s also both cold and heat tolerant, can grow in most soils except overly wet ones, and hosts different kinds of skipper butterflies during their breeding season. In the summer, the plant displays an inflorescence of purple flowers; in fall, it turns beautiful hues like orange and red. For fuller coverage, consider combining blue grama with buffalo grass and various native wildflowers in your yard.

Muhly grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris)

• Native range: Southeastern US and the East Coast
• Height: 2 to 3 feet
• Light: full sun
• Water use: low to medium

Planting muhly grass is like setting off living fireworks on your lawn. Each fall, it blooms with feathery pink inflorescences In winter, the grass fades into a rich tan. Beyond that, it retains a gorgeous dark-green color. The plant is easy to grow and germinate and is highly deer resistant.

Prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis)

• Native range: Great Plains
• Height: 2 to 3 feet
• Light: full sun
• Water use: low to medium

Another one of Barak’s favorites, prairie dropseed’s flowing green clumps make it the perfect accent or border grass—but that’s not the only fun part. When it begins to pop around June, the grass produces small pink and brown flowers that smell like coriander, licorice, or popcorn. It maintains its shape outside of the warmer seasons, even when blanketed by snow. This slow-growing type of grass is also a great choice if you’re looking to make your yard more pollinator-friendly, as they provide nesting materials for native bees.

Tall grasses

Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)

• Native range: everywhere in the US except the West Coast
• Height: 2 to 7 feet
• Light: full sun
• Water use: low to medium

Despite its name, this drought-resistant grass is rather tall, making it a great choice to add dimension to a yard or garden. Little bluestem also boasts, you guessed it, a beautiful blue hue in summer before turning copper in the fall. Loved by homeowners (including Barak) and animals alike, this grass attracts birds and butterflies and provides nesting materials for native bees. On the flip side, you might catch a few deer visiting your new bluestem buffet.

[Related: How to build a butterfly watering area]

Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum)

The post 9 native grasses that will revitalize your sad, water-wasting lawn appeared first on Popular Science.

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You’ve been developing your Minecraft world for a while. You have a full set of diamond armor, a field rife with pumpkins and melons next to your lakefront mansion, and you just defeated the Ender dragon. But reaching the End doesn’t need to be the end. If you want to spice up your crafting and maximize your gameplay experience, you can easily add a few, or a few dozen, modifications.

Veterans of the game might recall how hard it was to add mods to Minecraft in the early days. The process was manual and time-consuming. I, for one, lost days, if not weeks, of my teen years seeking out the latest versions of obscure mods online, waiting for downloads, and rooting around in config folders. Today, thanks to modern modding platforms, everything is automated.

Whether you’re trying to figure out how to install Minecraft mods for the first time or just need a refresher, this guide will help you snag the best user-created additions or alterations for this beloved sandbox game. If you encounter a warden in the deep dark, though, you’re on your own.

Install CurseForge

There are many modding platforms out there, such as Technic Launcher and Feed The Beast, but I prefer CurseForge. It’s one of the easiest to use, and features a diverse array of mods and modpacks suited to your wildest gameplay dreams. CurseForge is free for Windows, Mac, and Linux, and you can install it directly from your browser.

Once installed, CurseForge will prompt you to choose a game for modding and add-ons. Right now you want Minecraft, but the platform includes modding options for other popular games such as The Sims 4, World of Warcraft, and Elder Scrolls. 

To make your own modpack with a unique combination of mods, hit Create Custom Profile in the top right of the CurseForge window. The Profile Name is the name of your modpack. Once you set that, you will need to select the game version. Keep in mind that user-developed mods take a while to catch up with the latest Minecraft version. As of writing, most mods are updated to at least version 1.12.2. If you have a specific mod or mods in mind, you can look up its latest version online or in the CurseForge desktop app and choose the Minecraft version that suits your needs.

After you’ve created your modpack, it’s time to add some mods. Click the three vertical dots next to the orange Play button and select the puzzle piece labeled Add More Content in the dropdown menu. The puzzle piece icon to the right will take you to the same page. Here, you’ll be able to search for mods by name, and sort by update version and category. When you find one you want to add, click the Install button. Keep installing mods until you’re happy with the lineup.

Be careful not to add more than your computer can handle. A computer designed for gaming might be able to handle hundreds, but an older or lighter laptop might only be able to run 15 to 20 at a time without crashing. 

You can also add resource and texture packs in the Add More Content panel under Resource Packs. These alter the game’s graphics, including lighting and the appearance of blocks, items, and mobs. This is where you’ll find color-blind-friendly resource packs, and ones that make the game more realistic with alterations such as rounded logs, shadows, and clear windows.

When you’re finished adding mods and are ready to play, exit the Add More Content window and hit the orange Play button. This should open the Minecraft launcher. Make sure you’re on Java Edition. In the lower left corner where the Minecraft version is, you should see your modpack name. Hit the green Play button like usual. You should get a warning message saying that the mods may not support the latest safety features (such as parental controls, community guidelines, and chat moderation). If this isn’t a concern, go ahead and click Play. 

That’s it—you just made and launched your first modpack. Enjoy your game! If you want to play with friends, keep reading. 

To export your modpack, click the three vertical dots next to the orange Play button in CurseForge, then select Export Profile.

You’ll end up in an export window where you can change the name of the file, name the version (optional) and select which files to include (the preset should work fine). Then, click the orange Export button and it will save to whichever file location you choose.

Your modpack will save as a ZIP file, which you can send to friends over email, as a link to a cloud drive, in an iMessage if you both have macOS, or via any other file-sharing method.  

If your modpack.zip is an exceptionally large file, or if you have a slow internet connection, it might be most efficient to stash it, old-school, on a USB stick, or recreate it on your friend’s CurseForge account by repeating the steps in the previous section.

Just know that if you’re playing multiplayer, all players must have the same mods running. If one player adds or removes mods from their pack, the game will prevent players from joining the server due to incompatibility. You don’t want to miss out on traversing new dimensions with your friends because one of you is missing a mod.

The post Customize your Minecraft experience by installing a creeper-load of mods appeared first on Popular Science.

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The era of recording mixtapes and burning CDs for friends and family has passed by, so you’ll have to get creative if you want to share the latest track or artist you’re excited about.

One of your options is social media. You can share music on Instagram or have your pick from the TikTok music selection with only a few taps.

When you select a song, Instagram will add it to your story as a sticker, and down at the bottom of the screen, you’ll be able to scroll through the track to pick a snippet of up to 15 seconds. You can also tap on the song’s icon to get more options: select a different sticker style, remove it completely, or use the album art instead. Tap Done to post the story.

If you want to add music to an Instagram post on your main feed, you can do so by tapping Add music on the final screen before publishing. You get a similar option when making a reel—just tap Audio on the left before or after you record your clip. 

Yet another way to share music on Instagram is by posting a link to Spotify or YouTube, for example. In a Story, choose your image or video, tap the sticker icon, and choose Link. You can also just paste a URL in a direct message conversation if you want to go for something more private.

The app will then take you to the music selection screen: Browse through the Recommended tab to find popular TikTok music suggested by the algorithm, or Favorites, where you’ll find the sounds you’ve tried in the past. Finally, if you want something completely new, you can tap the magnifying glass icon on the right and use the search box. When you tap on a track you’ll get a preview—if you’re OK with it, confirm your choice by tapping on the pink checkmark button, but if you want to make some edits, you can always hit the scissors icon.

Snapchat

Snapchat offers almost as many ways as Instagram for sharing music with friends and family. Let’s start with Snapchat stories. Tap the camera icon at the bottom of your screen to go into recording mode, and either before or after capturing an image or clip, tap the musical note symbol on the right.

You can browse through the music that Snapchat suggests (trending tracks and songs based on mood), as well as search for specific tunes via the box at the top. Tap on the small play button to preview a track, or on its title to add it to your story.

You can then drag across the song’s sound wave to pick a 10-second snippet to use. With that done, tap Next to post the image or video as a story or as a snap directly to one or more of your contacts.

Tap your profile picture (top right), select the three dots, and go to Audio to connect your account to your favorite music service. If something is playing on Spotify or Apple Music when you capture a BeReal photo, you’ll see an icon down in the lower right corner of the image. Tap it and pick Shared so your friends can see the track and artist, or Private so only you can see what was playing when you took that picture.

In both cases, you can search for specific tracks or pick one of the Facebook suggestions. After you add a song, tap on its icon on the right to pick which part of it to embed into your story, and change how the track details and lyrics display in your post.

Stories aren’t your only option. To add music to a Facebook post, for example, tap Music from the list of options that pop up underneath as you’re creating it. You can also link your Spotify and Facebook profiles so people can click through on: From the mobile app, tap your avatar on the left, then go to Edit profile, and next to Links choose Add. Continue by tapping  Add Social Link and then Spotify.

The best way to share music on Twitter is to just paste in a link from somewhere else, whether you’re internally sending a message to one person or broadcasting a tweet to the world. If you’re sharing from Spotify, tap the three dots next to a song while on the app, then choose Share and Copy link.

The post Social media posts are better with music. Here’s how to add your favorite tunes. appeared first on Popular Science.

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Best photoelectric		First Alert SA511CN2-3ST		SEE IT	This smoke detector two-pack from First Alert packs a one-two punch.
Best ionization		First Alert 9120B Smoke Detector		SEE IT	First Alert’s 9120B Smoke Detector brings quick protection to your home.
Best for smoke and carbon monoxide		Kidde Smoke & Carbon Monoxide		SEE IT	Kidde’s combo smoke alarm also protects against carbon monoxide.

According to the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), around two-thirds of home fire deaths happen in spaces without a smoke detector. It takes minutes for a fire to fill your home with thick black smoke. The critical warning they provide can mean the difference between life and death. If your detectors are broken or very old, you should take the time to replace them. Luckily, even the best smoke detectors are affordable and easy to install.

• Best photoelectric: First Alert SA511 CN2-3ST
• Best ionization: First Alert 9120B Smoke Detector
• Best for smoke and carbon monoxide detector: Kidde Smoke & Carbon Monoxide
• Best battery-powered: First Alert PR710 Slim Smoke Alarm
• Best smart: Google Nest Protect
• Best budget: Kidde Smoke Detector (i12060)

How we chose the best smoke detectors

I’ve been renting an apartment with my wife (and dog) for nearly 10 years and, during that time, I replaced our old smoke detector with something new. I regularly test the detector to ensure it’s in working order, and I also monitor the condition of our major appliances, wall heater, and fireplace for potential fire risk. These are just a few small steps necessary in a more comprehensive fire safety plan, which also includes a fire extinguisher and escape route.

When I’m not obsessing over my family’s safety, I’m writing about gadgets and gear for publications like Popular Science, CNN Underscored, and TechnoBuffalo. To make these selections, I consulted fire safety guides from health and safety organizations, including NFPA.org, Ready.gov, and RedCross.org. I also reviewed PopSci’s previous coverage of the best practices for fire safety and consulted expert reviews.

The best smoke detectors: Reviews & Recommendations

Smoke detectors are extremely important for every home. If you haven’t replaced yours in the past decade, buying a new set is time. The best detectors are affordable, reliable, and easy to install. More importantly, they’ll provide you and your family with fire protection and peace of mind.

Best photoelectric: First Alert SA511CN2-3ST

FIRST ALERT

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: The First Alert SA511CN2-3ST packs powerful interconnectivity and voice alerts to let you know when there’s a fire.

Specs

• Type: Battery-powered (AA x 2)
• Sensor: Photoelectronic
• Interconnectivity: Yes

Pros

• Interconnectivity
• Simple setup
• Voice alert

Cons

• Limited number of location presets

The First Alert SA511CN2-3ST hits all the basic marks we look for in a smoke detector. This UL-Listed photoelectric model features interconnectivity, so you can connect up to 18 smoke alarms across your home. You can also assign it with one of 11 pre-set home locations, so its voice alert can tell you where the smoke is coming from.

Since it is designed to work as part of a larger set, we’re recommending a two-pack of detectors to make it a little more affordable if you decide to replace a full set of smoke detectors. That said, you can always get an individual model as well.

Best ionization smoke detector: First Alert 9120B Smoke Detector

FIRST ALERT

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: The First Alert 9210B Smoke Detector supports interconnectivity, an easily accessible test/mute button, and a 9-volt backup battery system.

Specs

• Type: Hardwired (battery backup; 9-volt)
• Sensor: Ionization
• Interconnectivity: Yes

Pros

• Battery backup
• Interconnectivity
• Easily accessible test/mute button

Cons

• Hardwired means more difficult installation

The First Alert 9120B Smoke Detector is a hardwired ionization unit that features a single test/mute button and a 9-volt battery backup system. It can also act as part of an interconnected, multi-unit alarm system of up to 12 First Alert smoke detectors, so you have more comprehensive coverage in your home. The 9120B also features a dust cover to keep particles from getting in, a mounting bracket lock for tamper resistance, and smart technology designed to reduce false and “nuisance” alarms. 

Best for smoke and carbon monoxide: Kidde Smoke & Carbon Monoxide Detector

Kidde

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: If you don’t already own a carbon monoxide detector, Kidde’s combination smoke/CO alarm has you covered.

Specs

• Type: Battery-powered (9-volt)
• Sensor: Photoelectric
• Interconnectivity: No

Pros

• Also offers a carbon monoxide detector
• Voice alerts
• Easy battery replacement

Cons

• No interconnectivity

Kidde’s combination smoke and carbon monoxide alarm is an excellent option if you need to install both smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. The battery-powered combination alarm constantly monitors your home for both smoke and gas, providing specific voice alerts if danger is present. (It also calls out “low battery” when it’s time to replace its 9-volt power source.) Kidde’s combination alarm also features a convenient hush/test button and a battery compartment on the front, making it easy to perform an annual battery change.

Best battery-powered: First Alert PR710 Slim Smoke Alarm

FIRST ALERT

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: With a slim profile and long-lasting battery, the First Alert PR710 Slim is a great way to protect your home.

Specs

• Type: Battery-powered (lithium-ion)
• Sensor: Photoelectric
• Interconnectivity: No

Pros

• Long-lasting battery
• Very little maintenance
• Slim profile

Cons

• No interconnectivity

If your home is too old for a hardwired smoke alarm, but you don’t want to ever change a battery, the First Alert PR710 Slim is a solid photoelectric smoke detector with a sealed lithium-ion battery guaranteed to last 10 years. Its thin, low-profile design is no-frills—just a single test/mute button, and that’s it. Unlike many of our other picks, it uses a classic siren, rather than voice alerts. It also cannot sync with other alarms. All in all, it’s a great option for apartments and other small spaces where you just need one smoke alarm, and you’d prefer to buy a new smoke detector every 10 years than replace a set of batteries every few months.

Best smart: Google Nest Protect

Google

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: The Nest Protect by Google provides a multitude of smart features in addition to smoke and CO detection.

Specs

• Type: Battery-powered or hardwired
• Sensor: Split-spectrum
• Interconnectivity: Yes

Pros

• Smartphone notifications
• Supports battery-powered and hardwired setups
• Split-spectrum sensor
• Advanced interconnectivity

Cons

• Expensive

The Google Nest Protect offers traditional smoke and carbon monoxide monitoring, with several convenient smart features. Chief among them, you receive a direct alert through the Nest smartphone when it detects danger. You can also conveniently mute the alarm through that alert. The Protect features a specialized photoelectric “Split-Spectrum” sensor, which uses two LED lights to detect a wider range of smoke particles. According to Google, the Split-Spectrum Sensor adds all the benefits of Ionization smoke detectors, without drawbacks like false alarms (or buying two types of smoke detectors).

Of course, the downside here is that the Nest Protect costs a lot more than any other smoke detector. In many cases, you can buy three standard photoelectric detectors for the price of one Nest Protect. It may be a convenient upgrade if you already have Nest gear at home, but it’s paying a pretty penny for the privilege.

Best budget: Kidde Smoke Detector (i12060)

Kidde

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: The Kidde Smoke Detector is simple, affordable, and offers powerful interconnectivity.

Specs

• Type: Hardwired (battery backup; 9-volt)
• Sensor: Ionization
• Interconnectivity: Yes

Pros

• Very affordable
• Interconnectivity
• Easily replaceable backup battery

Cons

• Requires professional installation
• Hardwired might work in all homes

If you’re already planning to get some electrical work done, this Kidde Smoke Detector is a very affordable hardwired smoke detector with a battery backup. It looks simple but can sync with up to 24 safety devices, including up to 18 smoke alarms. In addition to a hush/test button on the front, Kidde’s smoke detector also features a tamper-resistant locking pin, a low battery indicator, and a flashing LED, so you know it’s working. Conveniently, the unit also features a front-facing battery door, so you can easily replace the 9-volt battery. Small features like this can make a big difference, particularly if you’re in a space with multiple alarms.

Things to consider when buying the best smoke detectors

A smoke detector, or “smoke alarm,” senses the presence of smoke and blasts a loud alarm in response. While they vary in size and shape, household models typically feature plastic enclosures and are mounted high on a wall or ceiling.

Though smoke detectors seem ubiquitous and interchangeable, manufacturers use a couple of different methods to make them:

• Photoelectric smoke detectors trigger an alarm when smoke enters a chamber and reflects light onto a sensor. They protect better against slow, smoldering fires than fast, raging fires. 

• Ionization smoke detectors feature a sensor with a small amount of radioactive material between two electrically charged plates. When smoke enters the chamber, the flow of ions becomes disrupted, activating the alarm. Ionization-type detectors are generally better at identifying fast-burning flaming fires.

Both photoelectric- and ionization-style detectors have advantages and disadvantages, so there is no one obvious choice. For comprehensive coverage, the NFPA recommends using both kinds in your home. Some devices feature both technologies in a single device.

We recommend placing your smoke detectors based on their expertise. Use photoelectric detectors near stoves and outside of bathrooms, where smoke may accumulate over time from a small fire. Put ionization-style units in areas where fires are less likely to start so that they can catch fast-moving flames.

You shouldn’t have to think too much about your smoke detectors. A great one should be easy to install, take little effort to maintain, and accurately alert you when there’s an emergency. After installing a smoke detector, you shouldn’t even notice it’s there (unless it goes off). We considered dozens of options to find the best smoke detector. These factors separated the good detectors from the bad ones.

UL listing

The first and most important thing to look for in a smoke detector is a certification from Underwriters Laboratories, the safety science company that sets standards for equipment like smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. All smoke detector manufacturers must meet the company’s most recent standard for smoke alarms, ANSI/UL 217, to place a UL certification on their products. Essentially, the “UL Listed” seal of approval tells you that a detector has been tested to meet strict requirements and will work as advertised. 

Hardwired vs. battery-powered

In addition to sensor technology, smoke detectors vary based on how they receive power. Most detectors rely on disposable batteries but hardwired models that you wire into your home’s power are also an option.

Battery-powered smoke detectors—which usually rely on disposable 9-volt, AA, or lithium cells—offer flexible placement. You can easily install one in any room in your home at any time. They also require slightly more maintenance, as you need to replace their batteries annually to ensure they’re operational. It’s important to note that manufacturers advise against using rechargeable batteries in smoke detectors, as they lose their charge more quickly and have a shorter runtime than standard disposable batteries.

Alternatively, some battery-powered detectors come with sealed-in lithium batteries designed to last 10 years, making it so you never have to worry about replacing a battery. Some states, including California, require you to use this kind of detector to prevent people from taking the batteries out when the alarm goes off. Check your state and city ordinances for the best guidance on what’s required in your area.

Other smoke detectors are designed to get hardwired into your home’s electrical system. This makes it so you’ll never have to replace a battery to keep them operational. That said, installing them is a much more time-intensive process and includes working with electrical wiring. If you purchase a hardwired detector, make sure to buy one that features a backup battery, which will keep your detectors on if your house loses power.

Interconnectivity

If you need to protect a large home with multiple floors, it helps to buy a set of “interconnected” smoke detectors that can sync with each other so that if one detector senses smoke, all of your alarms will go off. In the event of a serious, fast-moving fire, this will ensure that everyone in your home knows to get outside as quickly as possible.

Smart features

Most smoke detectors are relatively basic devices, but there are some newer “smart” models with internet-enabled features. These detectors will often sync up with a mobile app, allowing you to check their status and mute them from your phone. The app also can give you a warning before the alarm goes off, giving you a small window to silence it if you’re cooking or already know it’s a false alarm. Some even offer voice alerts and can tell you which detector senses smoke.

FAQs

Final thoughts on the best smoke detectors

• Best photoelectric: First Alert SA511 CN2-3ST
• Best ionization: First Alert 9120B Smoke Detector
• Best for smoke and carbon monoxide detector: Kidde Smoke & Carbon Monoxide
• Best battery-powered: First Alert PR710 Slim Smoke Alarm
• Best smart: Google Nest Protect
• Best budget: Kidde Smoke Detector (i12060)

A house fire can spread quickly, so every second counts. An early warning from a smoke detector can be the difference between life and death. If your home isn’t properly outfitted with detectors, you should take the time to install them. Your safety depends on it.

Why trust us

Popular Science started writing about technology more than 150 years ago. There was no such thing as “gadget writing” when we published our first issue in 1872, but if there was, our mission to demystify the world of innovation for everyday readers means we would have been all over it. Here in the present, PopSci is fully committed to helping readers navigate the increasingly intimidating array of devices on the market right now.

Our writers and editors have combined decades of experience covering and reviewing consumer electronics. We each have our own obsessive specialties—from high-end audio to video games to cameras and beyond—but when we’re reviewing devices outside of our immediate wheelhouses, we do our best to seek out trustworthy voices and opinions to help guide people to the very best recommendations. We know we don’t know everything, but we’re excited to live through the analysis paralysis that internet shopping can spur so readers don’t have to.

The post The best smoke detectors in 2023 appeared first on Popular Science.

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The word “bomb” is not usually associated with positive things. Except in this case, where making seed bombs could help the ecological restoration of your neighborhood. 

Instructions

1. Mix the clay and potting mix. In the bowl, pour the clay and potting mix in a 2:1 ratio. 

The powdered clay acts as a binder and protects the seeds from direct sunlight, insects, and birds. We used green calcium bentonite clay (which doubles as a face mask), but you can use any kind you find at your local store or have at home. If you want seed bombs that look more natural and blend into the soil, you can use red clay powder.

3. Add the seeds. Pour in your seeds in a ratio of 3:1 in relation to the clay mix and combine with your hands or a mixing spoon. You may change this proportion depending on how dense you want plants to grow, but 3:1 is ideal to work in enough seeds.

• Pro tip: You can put multiple types of seeds into your bombs, but be careful how you mix and match: sun-loving plants will thrive in a spot where a shade-loving one will die, while fast-growing greenery might out-perform and suffocate another. Only combine seeds with similar qualities or habitat preferences, or plants that are known to grow well together.

4. Knead and roll the mix into small balls. Use the palms of your hands to shape your bombs. Keep them around half an inch (approximately one centimeter) in diameter. As you finish each one, place them on a tray with enough room between them so they’re not touching—once they dry, it’ll be difficult to break them apart. 

• Pro tip: As you shape your bombs, your clay mix might start drying, making it hard to work with. Keep a bowl of water at hand and add it to the mix in small amounts to bring the desired texture back.

5. Let the seed bombs dry and harden. Leave your tray of seed bombs to rest for a couple of days until they’re fully dry and hard. If you want to speed up the process, place them in direct sunlight, and if you’re leaving them outside, make sure they’re covered in case it rains.

6. Start bombing. Once all of your seed bombs are dry, you can plant them in indoor or outdoor pots, your yard, or in neglected patches of soil you’re allowed to access. You can push them slightly into the soil, leaving the tops uncovered in a sunny spot, but if you prefer to toss them like true bombs, soak them in water for 5 to 10 minutes before bombardment. 

Finding seeds native to your area is easy. You can follow our guide and collect seeds from the plants around you, or you can get them at your local hardware store or nursery. To know what to get, check out the National Wildlife Federation’s Native Plant Finder, which will show you a list of plants and shrubs local to your specific zip code.  

The post Make your own seed bombs to garden on the go appeared first on Popular Science.

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When you get used to multiple monitors it feels impossible to work without them. But these devices are not as portable as your trusty MacBook, so you should probably learn how to use your iPad as a second screen.

Thanks to a feature called Sidecar, iPads can mirror your laptop’s screen or act as an extension of it. And even if they’re not as big as your desktop monitor, Apple’s tablets are a lot easier to pack, so you can seamlessly take your work wherever you go.

First, make sure both devices are signed into the same iCloud account. Then, open the System Settings app on your Mac, which you can find by clicking the Apple logo in the top-left corner of your screen and then clicking System Settings. On the sidebar on the left, head to Displays, and if your iPad is nearby and turned on, it should show up here automatically. If it doesn’t, click the + (plus) button to the right of the display icons.

On the drop-down menu, under Mirror or extend to, choose your iPad’s name and then Extended display. This will effectively turn your tablet into an extension of your Mac’s screen, meaning you can just drag your windows on your computer over to your iPad.

Physically position your iPad where it’s most comfortable for you and click the Arrange button in the settings menu to make sure your virtual space reflects the device’s physical location in relation to your computer. Drag and drop the icons representing your devices into position if you need to make changes.

By default there will be a bar on the side and at the bottom of your iPad screen. The bar on the left that make it easier to control Mac apps using the touchscreen, while the bar at the bottom is a recreation of the interactive touch bar as seen on the MacBook Pro. If you prefer, you can turn both off by disabling the Show sidebar and Show Touch Bar options—you’ll get fewer on-screen functionalities, but gain more workspace, which is what it’s all about.

Among the free ones, our favorite is Splashtop Wired XDisplay, but as you’d imagine, setting things up is not as simple as on a Mac computer. First, download the app both on your iPad and your Windows device and open them. Continue by plugging your iPad into your computer and on your iPad, tap Trust to tell your tablet it’s OK to let Windows access your data.

The post You should use your iPad as a second screen appeared first on Popular Science.

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Adobe has been building artificial intelligence into applications like Photoshop for several years now. But Lightroom Classic, another of the company’s image editing programs, also features AI tools to quickly improve the look of your photos.

Underpinning it all is Adobe’s mighty AI muscle, trained on huge libraries of stock and publicly available images to generate new pictures. This means Lightroom Classic knows what a sky or a person looks like in a photo, and can make changes accordingly.

You can now use AI to pick out backgrounds, subjects, skies, and objects: Just click the Masking icon on the right (it looks like a circle inside a dash-lined square) and pick Subject, Sky, Background, or Objects. You’ll also be able to choose Brush for more precise control over where your selection goes.

The program will shade the new masked selection in red and you’ll be able to manipulate it as needed. For example, if you selected the sky, you’ll be able to tweak the brightness and contrast to make your photo appear sunnier. The Masks window, which will pop up on the right of your screen when you select something,  is where you can switch between your masks, create new ones, and delete them. Just click the three dots next to each item to see a full set of options.

Use the sliders that pop up underneath the tool when you click it to change the size and opacity of the brush, and paint over the object you’d like to remove. Once you finish your selection, the program will get to work. Lightroom Classic automatically chooses which parts of the background to sample to replace the deleted object, but you can use Ctrl+click (Windows) or Cmd+click (macOS) to specify a particular area, such as a blue sky.

This works just like the Tone Curve tool, but it only applies to the area of the picture under the mask. Along the top of the panel you’ll see selectors for the red, green, and blue channels—use them for more precise adjustments.

Choose Photo,  Enhance, and then check the Denoise option so that the AI can work its magic. The slider underneath the tool’s icon lets you control how aggressive it is—you can check the preview panel on the left to see the difference before you commit any changes. When you’re happy with the level of denoising, click Enhance to confirm your choice.

To find them, go to the Presets dialog box on the left and click on the small arrows right next to it to see the full list of Adaptive Presets. For example, you can select Storm Clouds to add a bit of drama to the sky or Enhance Eyes to highlight the peers in a portrait.

Open up the Masks window via Tools and Masking to see the mask that Lightroom Classic’s AI created to apply the effect. You can edit this mask as any other, allowing you to use the brush tool to change the outline of the selection the program has come up with, for example.

The post 5 AI tools in Adobe Lightroom Classic to boost your photo editing appeared first on Popular Science.

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It’s easy to run a full factory reset on a Windows 10 or 11 computer, but the risk of losing all your files is viscerally real. To avoid devastating data loss, you’ll need to prepare ahead of time and choose the right options before you give your device a fresh start.

The two best reasons to completely reset a laptop or desktop are to fix catastrophic performance issues or wipe it as clean as possible before selling, donating, or otherwise disposing of the device. If you’re considering a factory reset as a method of repair, make sure you’ve exhausted your troubleshooting options, especially if there are no other problems with your computer other than it being slow and/or hot.

It’s also worth noting that while a factory reset is the most dramatic version of a reset you can do, you’re not required to go that far. When you reset a computer to its factory settings, you’re essentially installing a clean version of the operating system—everything will disappear except for the files and apps your PC’s manufacturer preinstalled on the device. Windows, however, offers a number of options that allow you to keep personal data, settings, and apps intact throughout the reset. It’s a custom process, so make sure you use the settings that best suit your needs.

First, back up your files

Although a reset won’t necessarily clear everything off your laptop or desktop, it’s best to back up everything you want to keep before you proceed. Everyone has their own preferred file storage methods, but if you’re looking for tips, you can start with our basic backup guide.

One important piece of advice: If you know or suspect your computer has been infected with malware, be very careful about what you back up. Don’t just snag all the folders you can see—take some time to ensure you actually recognize the files. You wouldn’t want to back up a virus and reinfect your newly reset device.

Finally, make sure your computer is plugged in—Windows won’t reset if it’s running on battery power.

1. Open the reset options. The easiest way to find these is to click the Windows 10 Start menu, go to Settings (the cog icon), and select Update & Security followed by Recovery. Once you’re there, find Reset this PC and hit Get Started.

• On Windows 11, the steps are slightly different: Start menu > Settings (cog icon) > System > Recovery > Reset this PC > Reset PC.
• On versions of Windows 10 prior to version 2004 (released in 2020), you’ll need to follow these steps: Start > Settings > Update & security > Windows Defender > Device performance & health > Fresh Start > Additional info > Get Started.

If for some reason you can’t access your computer settings, you can also reset a laptop or desktop from its sign-in screen. To force your Windows 10 or 11 computer to display the login screen, press Win+L to lock your computer. Then click the power button icon in the bottom right corner of the screen (not your computer’s physical power button), hold Shift, and click Restart on the emerging menu. This will open the Windows Recovery Environment. From the Choose an option screen, pick Troubleshoot and Reset this PC.

[Related: When to repair your computer and when to replace it]

2. Decide how much you want to keep or remove. The next screen will offer you two options: to keep or remove your files, apps, and settings. No matter which one you pick, you may also need to choose whether Windows reinstalls from the cloud (Cloud download) or your device (Local reinstall).

• Keep my files. If Windows asks, choose whether you want your files to be saved in the cloud or on your local drive. By default, this option will restore all apps and settings that came with the PC when it was brand new—a complete factory reset. To avoid that and keep only what you had most recently, hit Change settings and turn the toggle switch under Restore preinstalled apps? to No, then hit Confirm. If you don’t see those additional options, your computer didn’t have any preinstalled apps.
• Remove everything. As you may have guessed, this will reinstall Windows 10 or 11 and remove your personal files, apps you and your PC manufacturer installed, and reset any changes you made to your computer’s settings.
  • Once you select this, you can also hit the Change settings link to decide exactly how clean you want your device to be (there’s a Yes/No toggle switch under a Clean data? heading—choose one and hit Confirm to lock it in). Cleaning the drive could take a couple hours but Microsoft recommends it if you plan to get rid of your PC—doing so will make it harder for people to recover anything. Otherwise, you can opt not to clean your data, which will be faster but less secure. The company also notes that this type of data erasure is aimed at consumers and doesn’t meet government or industry standards, so someone with enough expertise and resources might still be able to restore some of your data.

The post How to reset Windows 10 or 11 without losing everything appeared first on Popular Science.

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Best for beginners		Flashforge Adventurer 3		SEE IT	This is a 3D printer that can be up and running in the space of an afternoon, not a weekend.
Best for pros		Anycubic Kobra Max		SEE IT	As a large 3D printer, it can print out pieces that the most dedicated cosplayers might want.
Best budget		Ender 3 Max Neo		SEE IT	It has a large enough printing area to get decently sized pieces out without breaking the bank.

More and more, cosplay enthusiasts are looking to 3D printers for themed clothing and accouterments. Cosplay—embodying a fictional character through costume and makeup—is a hobby that can be done at any level, with any material. Want to be a robot? A cardboard box and tinfoil aren’t an awful place to start. But, as your performance art progresses, getting more precision cuts and customized looks becomes a top priority—especially if you’re attending big conventions and entering competitions. For that, having one of the best 3D printers can seriously help. Notches on sword sheaths, perfect polygon placement, and more can all be achieved with one of the best 3D printers for cosplay, and here are our top picks for the most accurate accessorizing.

• Best overall: Bambu Lab X1-Carbon Combo 3D Printer
• Best for beginners: Flashforge Adventurer 3
• Best for pros: Anycubic Kobra Max
• Best for prototypes and accessories: Flashforge Finder 3
• Best budget: Ender 3 Max Neo

How we chose the best 3D printers for cosplay

When we search for the best 3D printers, we look for 3D printers that could be used by a wide assortment of people and a wide number of use cases. Many of these printers will be great for cosplay as well. Others, not so much. To help us sort the list, we got pointers on the best 3D printers for cosplay directly from a cosplay artist before making our final picks.

Alex Norimaki, a content creator (Twitch/Instagram), engages with her audience by doing the things that young her would like. Whether showing her viewers an older game that she enjoyed as a child or by cosplaying as her favorite characters, she can share her love of creativity. And she shared her love of 3D printers with us to help inform our selections.

The best 3D printers for cosplay: Reviews & Recommendations

The following 3D printers for cosplay cover a wide range of required skill intensity, cost, and overall ability to accommodate the widest range of cosplayers possible. Whether this is your first time using a 3D printer for home designs or you’ve been in the hobby producing costume play props for some time, you should be able to find something to up your craftsmanship in the printers that follow.

Best overall: Bambu Lab X1-Carbon Combo 3D Printer

Bambu Lab

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: This is the “dream 3D printer for cosplay,” according to experts.

Specs

• Speed: 500 mm/s
• Filaments: 4 filament inputs (PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS, ASA, PVA, PET)
• Size: 256 x 256 x 256 mm output
• Auto-leveling beds: Dual Auto Bed Leveling
• Enclosure: Yes

Pros

• Four filament holders mean user efficiency and multi-color printing
• Best out-of-the-box printer
• Upgradeable frame
• Advanced anti-fail detection systems

Cons

• On the expensive side

The Bambu Lab X1-Carbon Combo 3D Printer has it all and is the best 3D printer for cosplay if you want to start with the best and get something that can scale with your prowess. In a large way, this is due to its most simple feature—the four filament feeders—but the accompanying tech that comes with the machine will help you tremendously. The fact that it is built to go fast and has a built-in enclosure obviously helps, too.

Still, the main reason why Alex and other cosplayers like her look at the Bambu Lab X1-Carbon is due to the filament threads you see at the top of the machine. They allow you to use multiple colors in your print, up to four with the base model but more with upgrades. While Alex is very forthright that 3D-printed cosplay pieces are quite easy to paint with acrylics, she still values multicolored printing due to time reduction. Plus, if you want sharp edges on your colors but don’t have painting skills, this is a great way to do so. The Bambu Lab X1-Carbon Combo 3D Printer can also use a wider range of materials than most 3D printers due to its advanced nozzle, drive, and cooling mechanics.

You’ll also have access to some more advanced anti-fail checks on the progress of your prints. Sometimes traditional 3D printers will output something that’s just a tad off-center. For cosplay, that’s not acceptable, as wearables and fan-favorite designs highlight these sorts of imperfections quickly, and judges look at accuracy. To counteract this issue, the Bambu Lab X1-Carbon Combo 3D Printer has AI-assisted bed leveling. Additional AI features include first-layer inspection and “spaghetti monster” (the term for stringy coatings on 3D prints that have suffered failures) detection so you can leave your printer alone and know that your time is being used with maximum efficiency.

Best for beginners: Flashforge Adventurer 3

Flashforge

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: The Flashforge Adventurer 3 will ease anyone into the world of 3D printing.

Specs

• Speed: 10-100 mm/s
• Filaments: PLA, ABS, PETG, etc.
• Size: 150 x 150 x 150 mm output
• Auto-leveling beds: No, but uses leveling-free design.
• Enclosure: Yes

Pros

• Leveling-free design, built-in enclosure with camera, quick snap nozzles, and Plug’n’Play nature make it very beginner-friendly
• Quiet, 50dB operation
• Lifetime technical assistance
• Price point allows you to get started without breaking the bank

Cons

• Internet connection can be spotty
• Smaller size

Want to get started 3D printing right away? The Flashforge Adventurer 3 will take you on that adventure without a problem. According to the manufacturer, after you unbox the Flashforge Adventurer 3, you can plug it in, follow a few simple directions, and start printing within around five minutes. In reality, that claim seems to be a sort of speedrunners edition of the setup, which includes carefully removing pieces from the inside of the machine and a several-page startup guide. Still, even for absolute beginners, this is a 3D printer that can be up and running in the space of an afternoon, not a weekend.

Beyond its essentially plug-and-play nature, the Flashforge Adventurer 3 comes with many of the hassles of 3D printing eliminated from its setup. Its build plate is factory calibrated, easing the hassle of leveling, and the build area is already enclosed. Proper nozzle cleanup—which can cause a number of printing errors if neglected—is easy due to the “snapping” nature of the nozzle connection. If, like Alex, you want to take an excited peek at the emerging product, you won’t have to take any special precautions to do so, as the Flashforge Adventurer 3 has a built-in camera specifically for this purpose. Be patient for visual feedback, though, as the internet connection quality is one of the few common complaints about this otherwise super 3D printer for beginners.

Best for pros: Anycubic Kobra Max

Anycubic

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: Get the large pieces that the pros wear from the Anycubic Kobra Max.

Specs

• Speed: 80-180 mm/s
• Filaments: PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU
• Size: 450 x 400 x 400 mm
• Auto-leveling beds: Yes
• Enclosure: No

Pros

• Easy-to-use machine
• Huge print volume for great gear
• Advanced, 25-point auto-leveling functionality

Cons

• Heavy device that requires some environmental planning

Anycubic’s Kobra Max is an easy-to-use 3D printer that can suit beginners, but that scales well for professional cosplayers. The reason is that, as a large 3D printer, it can print out pieces that the most dedicated cosplayers might want. At 17.7 inches in height, it can, for instance, print out a typical scimitar in just two pieces.

The Kobra Max uses the in-house LeviQ leveling function to ensure quality prints. This is a 25-point “inspection” for your 3D printer’s bed, which systematically double-checks and calibrates the machine’s leveling. There’s still a lot of room to demonstrate your skill when using the Kobra Max, though, as the machine is heavy, large, and doesn’t come with an enclosure. Be sure to plan around the environment of your home when using this device.

Best for prototypes and accessories: Flashforge Finder 3

Flashforge

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: The Flash Forge Finder 3 is a small 3D printer capable of getting precise cuts for small adornments.

Specs

• Speed: Up to 180 mm/s
• Filaments: PLA/ABS/HIPS/PETG/PETG PRO/TPU 95A, etc.
• Size: 190 x 195 x 200 mm
• Auto-leveling beds: No
• Enclosure: Yes

Pros

• Quick setup
• Takes up less space than others on this list
• Start/stop functionality (resume printing after power outage)
• Easily removable build plate

Cons

• Only works with Linux
• Best for small objects only

While a lot of 3D printing for cosplay is going to be centered around printing out cool swords, impressive armor, and other large objects, the accessories are just as essential. For brooches, pendants, and other gaming objects, you should consider the Flash Forge Finder 3, which utilizes a smaller printing area well.

Bonus features included with the Flash Forge Finder 3 that make it excellent for cosplay include the easily removable build plate. This way, you can use your full hand to remove small, more delicate printed objects and not worry about knocking your valuable equipment for a loop while doing so. Additionally pleasant is the resume printing function, which allows for mid-printing stops without ruining the finished product.

Best budget: Ender 3 Max Neo

Ender

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: Large size, small price.

Specs

• Speed: Up to 120 mm/s
• Filaments: PLA, ABS, PETG, etc.
• Size: 300 x 300 x 320
• Auto-leveling beds: Yes
• Enclosure: No

Pros

• Great size-to-price ratio
• Quick assembly time
• Perfect for bracers, hilts, saber blades, and more
• Multiple options available to match your needs

Cons

• No enclosure

If you are looking for a value pick when getting a 3D printer for cosplay, consider the Ender 3 Max Neo. It has a large enough printing area to get decently sized pieces out without breaking the bank and tends to be amongst the best choices when you compare output size to price. The manufacturer also provides alternative models of the Ender 3 that bring that value up even higher.

But can you get gorgeous cosplay-tier prints out of a budget printer? Alex thinks so, citing this pick for cheapest 3D printer as the most similar in design and functionality to the printer she has used most frequently for home use. It has the room to grow with your hobby and is affordable to use for experimentation. As Alex says of learning moments, “Don’t be afraid of trial and error because it’s gonna happen.”

What to consider when selecting the best 3D printers for cosplay

Whether you pick a 3D printer for cosplay or to print miniatures, things like speed and cost will matter. But what matters most in the specific needs of the cosplay artist? In talking to Alex Norimaki, we found three things mentioned repeatedly in relation to 3D printing for cosplay: the printing environment, the printer’s size, and automatic leveling.

Printing environment

One of the first things to consider before buying a 3D printer is what kind of environment it will be placed in. Look for temperature fluctuations and air movements around the machine, which can all potentially warp the final product.

For her part, Alex says she prefers printing in her small closet to keep air flow to a minimum. That being said, she’ll still take small peaks to see how a print is coming along or to measure progress. “They’re not quite as needy as you might think they are,” she admitted after chuckling about her impatience.

Don’t have such an out-of-the-way space? That’s what an enclosure is for. Some 3D printers are already enclosed or include an enclosure attachment, and these are the best for beginners, but it really isn’t a requirement. If you discover you truly need one later, you can buy your own enclosure separately or improvise. As a result, Alex recommends not to worry too much about a 3D printer for cosplay not having an enclosure if you’re otherwise sold on the device.

Size

To put it bluntly, size matters in the world of 3D printing for cosplay. To get a big sword, mystical crossbow, or magical greaves in the most efficient way possible, you’ll want the ability to print large, whole pieces out.

Still, Alex warns that you don’t have to buy the biggest 3D printer to start with. You can always assemble from several pre-printed parts. You might also just want to print out smaller accessories. The filament responds well to glues and is pretty hard, too, so you have several options when it comes to final assembly.

Auto-leveling beds

In 3D printing, leveling is important to keep the finished products properly aligned. Without it, things can get lopsided. With small miniatures, this isn’t always such a big deal or noticeable, but things get a bit different when cosplay gets thrown into the mix. Large wearables that are printed in a misaligned way can cause a cosplay performer to look off-balance. Iconic set pieces will look off.

Alex, who does not claim that balancing and leveling by eye are amongst her many skills, highly suggests getting auto-leveling beds if you can. Since she goes on stage with her printed works sometimes, she wants them always to look correct to the audience. It’s just one less piece to worry about in the 3D printing puzzle, improves print quality, and gives you increased peace of mind from before you tap that “start” key to when onlookers are appraising your final outfit.

FAQs

Final thoughts on the best 3D printers for cosplay

• Best overall: Bambu Lab X1-Carbon Combo 3D Printer
• Best for beginners: Flashforge Adventurer 3
• Best for pros: Anycubic Kobra Max
• Best for prototypes and accessories: Flashforge Finder 3
• Best budget: Ender 3 Max Neo

Getting the best 3D printer for cosplay, while not exactly cheap, isn’t as intimidating as it might once have been. With the technology becoming increasingly diversified, it is also becoming more accessible and cheaper. If you have the willpower and time, there is a 3D printer out there that can suit your cosplaying needs and match a reasonable budget.

Why trust us

Popular Science started writing about technology more than 150 years ago. There was no such thing as “gadget writing” when we published our first issue in 1872, but if there was, our mission to demystify the world of innovation for everyday readers means we would have been all over it. Here in the present, PopSci is fully committed to helping readers navigate the increasingly intimidating array of devices on the market right now.

Our writers and editors have combined decades of experience covering and reviewing consumer electronics. We each have our own obsessive specialties—from high-end audio to video games to cameras and beyond—but when we’re reviewing devices outside of our immediate wheelhouses, we do our best to seek out trustworthy voices and opinions to help guide people to the very best recommendations. We know we don’t know everything, but we’re excited to live through the analysis paralysis that internet shopping can spur so readers don’t have to.

The post The best 3D printers for cosplay in 2023, according to experts appeared first on Popular Science.

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It’s DIY season, so it’s time to fill out your tool kit or replace those old hand-me-downs you’ve used since Seinfeld was airing new episodes. Right now, Amazon has a heap of DeWalt power tools on deep discount, including some truly essential bits of kit like extra batteries, reciprocating saws, and drivers.

DEWALT 20V Max Cordless Drill / Driver Kit, Compact $99 (Was $179)

DeWalt

SEE IT

Just about every project can benefit from a strong, reliable drill/driver, and this DeWalt one is only $99 at the moment. It relies on DeWalt’s flexible 20V Max battery system and comes with both a charger and a carry bag. The compact batteries are $40 by themselves, and this package includes two of them, so it’s like you’re paying $20 for the actual tool and bag. Plus, buying it at Amazon means you won’t get suckered into buying a $3 sports drink at the checkout of the big-box hardware store like you would if you went in person.

More Dewalt deals

Maybe you don’t need a drill. That’s OK. There are plenty of other Dewalt tools on sale at Amazon right now. Here are some of the standouts:

• DEWALT 20V MAX XR Battery, 5 Ah, 2-Pack $149 (was $249)
• DEWALT 20V MAX Jobsite Fan $88 (was $169)
• DEWALT 20V MAX Cordless Drill and Impact Driver, Power Tool Combo Kit with 2 Batteries and Charger  $159 (was $239)
• DEWALT 20V MAX Orbital Sander $95 (was $179)
• DEWALT Right Angle Attachment $19 (was $46)
• DEWALT 20V Max XR Oscillating Multi-Tool $118 (was $179)
• DEWALT 20V MAX Blower $108 (was $169)
• DEWALT 20V MAX* XR Reciprocating Saw, Compact $159 (was $219)
• DEWALT 20V MAX Reciprocating Saw $109 (was $159)
• DEWALT 20V MAX Circular Saw $117 (was $159)
• DEWALT 20V MAX Bluetooth Speaker $91 (was $139)

The post Save more than 45% on DeWalt power tools at Amazon right now appeared first on Popular Science.

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Every nerve in your body is now on high alert, and you turn on the light just in time to see a flash of fur dart into the crack under your closet door. You scream an undignified “YEEAAARRGGEETTTOUTTTTT,” which, roughly translated from panicked shrieking, means: “Hello, you are a mouse. Please leave.”

Signs you have a mouse in your house

“Something I’ve noted over the years is that you know someone has a mouse when you hear the very distinct scream the person makes when they’ve seen a mouse,” jokes Michelle Niedermeier of Pennsylvania State University. “Male, female, old, young—it’s the same screech.”

Niedermeier works with the Pennsylvania Integrated Pest Management Program, helping communities deal with pest problems. She says that often, for her, the first sign of a mouse is seeing the critter itself scurry across the floor.

But because mice are nocturnal and you’re unlikely to see them (or you may catch only catch a bleary-eyed glimpse in the middle of the night), there are other signs of an infestation you should be aware of. They may also be inhabiting areas you only visit infrequently, such as an attic or crawlspace.

One of the most obvious signs of a mouse infestation is feces. The poop of a typical house mouse is only a few millimeters long, black, and pellet-like. Mice poop a lot, and they poop just about everywhere, so seeing their droppings is usually a good sign that the rodents have taken up residence.

If an infestation goes on for long enough, you might start to notice a distinct and unpleasant smell, or even some strange markings on your walls.

“Where mice go, they leave scent, and they leave a grease trail too,” says Jeff Schalau, an extension agent with The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension. Near baseboards and along walls, this grease trail resembles the smudges from handprints on a painted surface. It appears when a mouse rubs against the wall, leaving behind dirt and oils from its fur. Mice tend to avoid open spaces, and will usually travel as close to the wall as possible, which makes their trails easy to predict.

The best way to get rid of mice

Unlike some other pests, a mouse infestation is one you can take care of yourself. There’s no need to call an exterminator—just screw your courage to the sticking place and get to work.

“It all boils down to food, water, and shelter,” Niedermeier says. Cut off those three things, and you’ll make your home a lot less attractive to mice.

The problem is that mice are resourceful. For water, they can take advantage of leaks that you might not even know exist, and for shelter, they can make use of just about any kind of clutter or hole. That makes food the most important factor to tackle. “Eliminating food is paramount to getting rid of a mouse problem,” Niedermeier says.

Mice will eat pretty much anything, too, so you’ll have to be thorough. Start by cleaning up any crumbs or food debris on surfaces and floors. When you cook, promptly clean dirty dishes instead of letting them sit out. Store food in places mice can’t reach, like the refrigerator, or inside containers they cannot nibble through, such as glass or sturdy plastic. And don’t forget about your pets’ supply. Only put out the amount of food a pet will eat in one sitting. While Fifi might like grazing on kibble throughout the day, so do mice.

Then it’s time to block up all the unconventional entrance and exit points. If you happen to see a mouse, pay attention to where it runs, and stay on the lookout for any holes or cracks.

“If you can stick a regular old pencil in a hole, a mouse can get through,” Niedermeier says. She explains that the largest part of a mouse is its tiny skull, which is usually only the width of a pencil. “If their head can get through, the rest of their body can get through as well,” she adds.

Close up any holes you see, and even the holes you’ve helped put in. Holes around pipes or wiring are often overlooked, but can act as a mouse superhighway system through your home. Don’t forget to look up high—mice can climb walls as long as their claws can grab hold.

When you fill in holes, use high-quality materials that will last for years. In the end, it will save you a lot of work. Niedermeier recommends using silicone caulk or stainless steel or copper mesh—think a pot scrubber—to block any openings. Silicone lasts for a longer time than latex caulk, and unlike steel wool, copper and stainless steel don’t rust.

“You really only want to do this job once,” Niedermeier says. And if you do it well enough, your hard work will keep mice away as long as your home remains sealed-up.

3. Trap any remaining mice

So you’ve cleaned up, boxed up, and sealed up your home—but there are still some mice inside. Now, it’s time to get rid of the stalwarts that remain. It’s time to address the big question: Do you know how to catch a mouse?

For starters, as much as you might want to, you can’t just snatch them up and take them outside. Mice have excellent senses of direction, and even moving them some distance from your house isn’t enough to get rid of them. In experiments, they find their way home quickly, even heading through obstacles to get back to their residences. The best way to get rid of mice from your home, unfortunately, is to kill them.

[Related: How to fight an ant infestation]

The most effective method is a trap, baited with tasty morsels like peanut butter, oats, or dried fruit. Place them along baseboards and walls, where mice prefer to travel, with the bait directly in their path. Simple wood and wire snap traps are a classic for a reason. They work fast, they’re effective, they’re cheap, and they’re reusable. When in doubt, this is a good first option for any home with a mouse problem.

More modern plastic snap traps, which look something like a binder clip, are also effective. Like the wooden snap traps, the plastic ones are easy to set up and use. Between the two, it’s mostly a matter of personal preference.

If you have a pet, be sure to place the traps where your pet can’t reach. If this isn’t possible, Schalau recommends placing a sturdy box with a mouse-sized hole in it along the wall and over the trap. This will allow the mouse to reach the bait, while keeping your pet safe.

Another effective and humane option is an electric box trap, which can be baited just like a snap trap. The battery-powered machine has an opening that mice can run into to try and catch the bait. When a mouse enters the box, it steps on a plate that carries a current and is instantly electrocuted. Then, a small light begins flashing to indicate that the trap has caught a mouse and should be re-set. Electric box traps are good for getting rid of mice in homes with pets, because they are completely enclosed—no dog or cat can get to the charged plate. In addition, they leave very little mess, which makes them easy to clean. The downside is that you do need to make sure the batteries are regularly charged, and they cost considerably more than a snap trap.

“Mice are a health concern,” Niedermeier says. “They spread disease, they trigger asthma, and so having a mouse in your house is a real health issue.”

They also tend to carry foodborne diseases like salmonella. And since mice enjoy noshing on the same foods that people and pets do, they have the potential to spread diseases onto our food and meal preparation surfaces.

And that’s not the only illness these fuzzy creatures can spread. “Hantavirus is a serious issue out here in the west,” Schalau says. Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome, carried by rodents including mice, can be fatal.

So if you find a mouse, don’t try cohabiting. “As soon as you identify a problem, take action,” Schalau says. Otherwise, the infestation will only grow—and you’ll soon have to contend with multiple generations of rodents. “Their reproductive potential is off the charts,” Schalau says. “At the first sign of any mice inside your house, you need to get on it.”

What not to do when you’re getting rid of mice

It’s not enough to know how to kill mice—you need to do it properly. Poison might sound good, but pest control experts do not recommend this option. While it will kill mice, poison can also kill any animals that might feed on mouse carcasses. It can also inadvertently poison pets.

And there’s another downside. Most poisons don’t work instantly, for good reason: Manufacturers don’t want mice to become gun-shy of poisoned bait. So what often happens is that a mouse eats a poison pellet, walks back to its nest, and only then dies. Unfortunately, mice like tiny holes and often take up residence in hard-to-reach places like walls.

Trust. You do not want to smell a dead mouse for months as it slowly decays inside your walls. Don’t do it.

Another popular option on the market is glue traps, which stick to the bodies of any mice that walk over the trap. Theoretically, this should immobilize the mouse. But starving to death while stuck to a piece of cardboard is not a great or humane way to go. And few people are willing to kill the mouse by hand. That is, if the trap actually works.

“The glue, though it’s sticky, is not sticky enough,” Niedermeier says. Older, stronger mice—which are more likely to be breeding and creating a mouse problem—can often pull themselves out of the glue traps, sometimes with a very gruesome effect. “They are ready, willing, and able to gnaw off their own arm to get out of it,” she explains. “It’s more humane to use a snap trap.”

Cleaning up after a mouse infestation

Once you’ve closed off access to your food, water, and shelter, sealed entrances and exits, and killed any interlopers unfortunate enough to remain in your domain, it’s time to clean up.

If you used traps, you should keep your hands covered while you dispose of mouse carcasses in the trash. Use disposable gloves, a plastic bag, or even sturdy leather work gloves to keep a safe distance between you and the mouse. Remember, mice can harbor diseases, so you’ll want to be cautious as you handle their bodies.

You can also take the bodies outside if you live in a rural area, but be sure to put the remains in an area far away from your house, where pets won’t be likely to bring them back in, and they won’t attract additional unwanted scavengers.

Also, take the opportunity to clean up any mouse urine or droppings, wearing a face mask if you are allergic or have asthma. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention says the safest way to clean up after mice is to wear gloves and spray the droppings with diluted bleach before wiping up the waste. Needless to say, washing any clothing or bedding that mice have pooped on is always a good idea. And don’t forget to wash your hands afterward.

Whew. You’re all set. Sleep the sleep of the content knowing that you have a mouse-free house.

This story has been updated. It was originally published on February 24, 2017.

The post How to get rid of mice and keep them away appeared first on Popular Science.

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Knowing how to find your IP address is a useful skill, even if you don’t know exactly what an IP address is or what it’s for. Whether you want to set up a new 3D printer or don’t want to sound ignorant while on the phone with your internet service provider, there are a couple of ways to easily get this information.

Get to know these methods in case you ever need them, and while you’re at it, maybe learn what this string of numbers is and why it’s important.

There’s a reason why Windows computers and some other devices have two IP addresses. Internet protocol version 4, also known as IPv4, is the original system invented back in 1980 to identify computers and other devices. But IPv4 only has 32 bits, which means there are only so many addresses available and not nearly enough for the hyperconnected future we live in today. Enter IPv6—the 64-bit solution that provides many more addresses to make space for all the new devices hitting the market every day. The problem is that the rollout of this 1998 protocol took a long time, and some older servers and programs are not compatible with it. This is why some devices use a workaround and have two IP addresses to bridge that gap and avoid any service interruptions. 

In general, an IP address is a unique series of numbers that identifies a device with the ability to connect to the internet. Every gadget has a private or internal IP address assigned by its manufacturer. If the internet were a town, this would be your home address. When you watch a movie on a streaming service, your device sends a request to whatever platform you’re using, which in turn knows where to send the reply (i.e. the movie) thanks to your IP address. This specific piece of data is very useful, which makes it very valuable. Treat it as your social security number and don’t disclose it.  

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The swift rise of generative platforms such as ChatGPT and Dall-E mini has brought artificial intelligence to everyone’s attention in recent months. But programs such as Photoshop have been offering AI assistance of their own for quite some time now.

When it comes to Adobe’s image editing software, these capabilities are there to help select the outline of an object, fill in a picture’s background, or change the expression on someone’s face. Your AI-enhanced edits can be subtle or quite dramatic, and there’s plenty of room to experiment.

All of this machine-powered magic works in a similar way, no matter what Photoshop tool you’re using: developers have used vast amounts of stock and copyright-free images to train the program to be able to decide where a pixel should or shouldn’t go, or what color it should be.

To use them, go to Filter in the main navigation bar and then click on Neural Filters. You’ll be able to choose from a wide range of actions, such as adding depth to your images and smoothing the skin on people’s faces. Each filter comes with its own set of options, so you can tweak them to make them more or less aggressive, depending on what you want your final photo to look like. You may notice some of the filters are still in beta. This means they’re works in progress, so keep that in mind if you use them, as the results might be less than perfect.

For example, click Smart Portrait and you’ll be able to use simple sliders to make people in the photo look happier, younger, or older, and even change the direction they’re looking in.

Switch to Object Aware mode on the right menu to get Photoshop’s help in picking out edges, then use the Refine Edge Brush Tool to make cuts—select it by clicking the second icon from the top down in the left sidebar, or hitting the R key on your keyboard. It’s particularly good when you’re trying to trace around very faint edges, like someone’s hair.

Open an image, go to Edit, and then Sky Replacement to make alterations. You can drop in one of the program’s presets or load your own, as well as tweak the sky’s temperature and brightness, and make adjustments to the foreground to help it match the lighting.

Select an object in your photo, go to Edit, and choose Content-Aware Fill. You’ll be able to refine your selection further and see a preview of how the fill is going to work. You can specify areas of the image Photoshop should use to fill in the background once it removes the object.

To do this even quicker trusting in Photoshop’s process and without any refinement options, select an object and press Shift+Backspace. Just make sure the Content-Aware option is selected in the dialog box that pops up, and click OK to apply the changes.

The post 5 AI-powered Photoshop tools to subtly—or dramatically—alter your images appeared first on Popular Science.

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COVID-19 is no longer a public health emergency in the US. The Biden administration’s deadline follows the World Health Organization’s announcement last week that removed COVID’s status as a global health crisis.

Infectious disease experts tell Popular Science that it’s an encouraging step and a sign that we are in a very different place than where we were in 2020. And while the recent decisions in no way mean the virus is gone—it’s expected to be endemic like the flu—access to COVID testing, treatments such as Paxlovid, and the vaccines have put the US in a position to coexist with it.

That said, managing your safety will come at a higher cost now. In one of the biggest changes from ending the federal emergency response, insurances are no longer required to cover the costs of COVID testing or reimburse people if they bought an over-the-counter home COVID-19 test. The federal government is also ending its free COVID-test program over the mail. 

As the financial burden of testing shifts to families and individuals, knowing where and when to get tested will keep you protected as the country transitions into this new stage of the pandemic. “We’re still seeing up to 1,000 deaths a week in the US from COVID for people that are older and at risk,” warns Del DeHart, a medical director of the infectious diseases department at the University of Michigan Health-West. “For those people, COVID is still not over and so testing for early treatment is going to be critical.”

Where to get COVID tests

There are still options for getting free COVID tests around the US The last day to order four free at-home COVID tests from the government is May 31, but local community clinics can give away free COVID tests or at a lower cost until supplies run out. 

Access to free testing might also depend on where you live. David Souleles, the director of the COVID-Response Team at the University of California, Irvine, says some state governments are taking measures to avoid financial barriers with COVID testing. California, for example, issued a mandate for health insurances to continue providing reimbursement for eight monthly at-home tests. Check your state government’s website to see what policies are in place following the end of the public health emergency.

If you are uninsured, the US government will continue to provide access to swabs through the Increasing Community Access to Testing Program. This government program partners with specific healthcare sites such as Walgreens and Quest Diagnostics to provide no-cost COVID tests with priority for people with a known exposure to the virus or who are showing symptoms.

[Related: An at-home test for both COVID-19 and the flu gains approval]

At-home rapid tests and PCR laboratory testing will still be available at your local pharmacies and doctor’s office, but it’s up to your insurance company if they want to bear the cost or require a copayment. What’s more, insurance companies may charge different prices for COVID tests; if they cover the cost, they may set limits on how many tests they will cover per individual. 

Prices for COVID test kits in stores like CVS range from $9.99 to $28.99, meaning testing can quickly get expensive. DeHart is concerned that the prices will create a financial barrier that will deter people from getting tested. If affordability becomes a question, it’s important to make every COVID test you take count.

When it’s still important to get tested for COVID

While most COVID mandates have lifted around the country, some employers and places might require you to get tested. For instance, healthcare workers employed in facilities like nursing homes will likely continue routine COVID testing. And as of now, many hospitals still require routine COVID testing for admitted patients, though it remains unclear whether the hospitals will cover the cost or if the test will be added to a person’s medical bill.

For voluntary testing, it’s important to evaluate your risk of having a severe COVID infection. DeHart says individuals above the age of 65 and those with immunosuppressive conditions should get tested regularly, along with loved ones in close contact with those that fall under this category. Souleles also recommends taking a test before visiting a relative in assisted living or anyone who is considered at high-risk of exposure. 

Other scenarios may apply, too, Souleles adds. “We would still encourage people to test before and after travel and before and after gatherings if they have the ability to do so. Anytime that you have the ability to test before you’re going to be around lots of people is great, and anytime you have the ability to test three to five days after being around a lot of people, that’s also a good thing.”

[Related: Long COVID recovery is finally getting the attention it deserves in the US]

If you have COVID-like symptoms, get tested before going out in public, even if the side effects seem mild. Testing early will give you more chances to get Paxlovid, which is most effective when taken within the first five days of seeing symptoms, and potentially avoid life-threatening complications. 

If you need to purchase a COVID test, treat it like you would any other over-the-counter goods. This includes checking the expiration dates to avoid a false positive or false negative result. You will also want to throw out any recalled COVID tests. If purchased for a later date, keep COVID tests at room temperature and away from the hands of pets and young children.

What to do if you test positive for COVID

If the test comes out positive, follow the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention’s (CDC) guidelines. Stay home and isolate yourself from others in the household for five days. People experiencing moderate symptoms like difficulty breathing should isolate for 10 days. Monitor your condition and go to the hospital if there are any severe or life-threatening complications. 

If you must go outside, wear a high-quality mask and avoid going to places where you would have to take it off. Also contact your doctor to see if you are eligible for any COVID-19 treatments and start those as soon as possible.

You can stop isolating after five days if you have no symptoms. If you continue to show symptoms, the CDC says you should stay put until your symptoms improve or you are fever-free for 24 hours without using medication.

[Related: Getting COVID more than once might be even worse than we thought]

Keep in mind that COVID tests are only one of the many tools available to reduce your risk of severe infection and death. Both DeHart and Souleles strongly urge people to get vaccinated and get their booster shot when eligible. Insurers will still be expected to cover the bivalent COVID vaccine as a routine immunization, and the Biden administration’s Bridge Access Program for COVID-19 Vaccines and Treatments will continue to provide vaccines free-of-charge to the uninsured.

“Stay up to date with your vaccines,” says Souleles. “It’s still the most important tool that we have right now.”

The post Your guide to COVID testing for the unforeseeable future appeared first on Popular Science.

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We’ve all got messy, unlabeled music files cluttering up our collections. You might have gotten them from questionable sources in the early 2000s, ripped them yourself but were too lazy to tag them, or just didn’t care for a neat library at the time. 

This gives MusicBrainz Picard a vast pool of information to draw from, but also some limitations, as its database mostly only includes music that’s seen a wide commercial release. As a result, the software won’t be able to properly identify a recording of your high school band performing songs from Les Misérables, or a CD of your mom singing reggae versions of Bob Dylan songs (but please send me that CD, it sounds amazing).

Your tracks will automatically show up in the left panel. Click the Scan button at the top of the interface and Picard will attempt to identify your music and download the appropriate metadata for it. After a few seconds, your files will appear on the right panel with the right labels indicating the track’s name and number, and the name of the album they belong to.

By default, this feature will replace file names with the track number of each song followed by its title, but you can customize this setting by choosing a different File naming script in the menu. This will allow you to include details such as the artist’s name and album if you like. If none of the scripts work quite the way you like, you can always write your own—just click Open file naming script editor.

The post Use MusicBrainz Picard to organize your sloppy music collection appeared first on Popular Science.

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With the federal public health emergency for COVID-19 set to expire at the end of the day on May 11, take a few minutes today to order the handful of free at-home COVID-19 tests the US government is holding for you. Don’t procrastinate: guaranteed insurance coverage for tests ends with the emergency, so they might not be free starting on May 12.

For now, every residential address in the US, Puerto Rico and other US territories, as well as those linked to overseas military and diplomatic personnel, can request four free rapid antigen tests from the federal COVID tests website. Although coverage may change when the public health emergency ends, the US Department of Health and Human Services says the government will continue to distribute tests via that website through the end of May.

And if you still have tests you ordered at any point since the program launched in January 2022, don’t throw them out—use the Food and Drug Administration’s searchable at-home test database to see if their expiration dates have been extended. Studies have shown that repeat COVID-19 infections increase the risk of hospitalization and death, so it’s worth hanging onto as many usable tests as you can. It’ll help you avoid spreading it among your family, friends, and community.

What’s changing with insurance coverage for COVID tests

The end of the public health emergency also means private insurance is no longer required to cover COVID tests without cost-sharing. The Biden administration has encouraged health insurers to continue, but after May 11, you may have to pay for any tests you order or pick up. To understand exactly what to expect, you’ll need to check with your plan to see how it will handle COVID tests.

If you’re insured by a state Medicaid program, though, you’re in luck. These are required to cover COVID tests without cost-sharing until September 30, 2024, the HHS says. After that, coverage may vary by state.

Medicare coverage, meanwhile, is a mixed bag. Anyone with traditional Medicare can continue getting PCR and antigen tests with no cost-sharing when the lab tests are ordered by a doctor and some other health care providers. If you’re enrolled in Medicare Advantage, cost-sharing may change when the health emergency ends, so the HHS recommends you check with your plan after May 11.

Despite the end of the health emergency, the government may continue to distribute free tests from the national stockpile through states and communities. If you’re looking for a free COVID tests, you can check the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention’s no-cost COVID-19 testing locator.

Those living in multi-family, co-living, or other shared living spaces can place more than one order as long as the USPS knows the address houses multiple unrelated families, but may be unable to if the government doesn’t know several families live there. If that happens, you can file a service request or call the USPS help desk at 1-800-ASK-USPS (1-800-275-8777) to try to get it fixed.

If you need help placing an order, you can call 1-800-232-0233 Monday through Friday between 8 a.m. and 8 p.m. Eastern Standard Time, or between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. on the weekend, for assistance in English, Spanish, and more than 150 other languages. There’s also a teletype (TTY) or text telephone number at 1-888-720-7489 and the aforementioned USPS help desk.

People with disabilities can call the disability information and access line at 1-888-677-1199 between 9 a.m. and 8 p.m. EST, Monday through Friday, or email DIAL@usaginganddisability.org.

If you provide an email address when you order, you will get shipping notifications and can track the package on the USPS website. You can’t pick the tests up anywhere, even your local post office—they will always come to the address you provided, the agency says.

As long as your tests haven’t expired, the government recommends you take them if you begin having COVID symptoms like a fever, sore throat, runny nose, or loss of taste or smell; at least five days after you are in close contact with someone who has since tested positive for COVID; or before you gather with a group, especially if that group includes people at risk of severe disease or who aren’t up to date on their vaccinations (keep in mind that you may not know who’s at risk, either).

It’s also worth noting that you should let your tests come to room temperature before using them—especially if they were delivered in freezing or blistering hot temperatures. Although the tests are built to survive a range of conditions, they might not work as well if they’re cold, the government says. Generally, rapid antigen tests are meant to be used in an environment that’s somewhere between 59 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit (15 to 30 degrees Celsius), but your tests should come with specific instructions about this. The government recommends letting the unopened package sit indoors for at least two hours before opening and using any of the tests inside.

How to take a rapid antigen test

Each test kit comes with directions for how to use it, and they all involve swabbing the inside of your nose. You should get results within 30 minutes and you won’t have to leave your home. If you don’t follow the instructions, the result could be wrong. For visual learners, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention has a how-to video, and it also has one for people who use American Sign Language.

[Related: The Postal Service helps keep millions of Americans alive and well]

If the results come out negative, the test didn’t find COVID in your body, and you might have a lower risk of spreading the disease. It’s worth noting that these at-home antigen tests generally aren’t as accurate as PCR tests, for example, which are processed by laboratories. So if you think you got a false negative, the government suggests testing again within a few days, leaving at least 24 hours between tests.

The post Order free COVID tests right now—before it’s too late appeared first on Popular Science.

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It might be hard to believe, but the Apple TV box—not the Apple TV app—has been with us since 2007. In that time, it’s gotten both smaller and smarter, and it has a few tricks up its sleeve that you might not know about.

While the Apple TV is designed to make it easy for you to sit back, relax, and get to your entertainment as quickly as possible, you can improve your viewing experience by digging into some of the settings and hardware features. Note that these tips work with all generations of the Apple TV 4K, whether you have the latest version and its Siri Remote (with a circular clickpad), or the older model and its Touch Remote.

To delete an app from the home screen entirely, tap and hold on it, press Play/Pause, and select Delete to remove it. As on iOS, you can create folders too: press Play/Pause and choose New Folder to create one, and you’ll be able to drag app icons into it. To remove them, drag them out of the folder.

There are more options for changing your home screen’s appearance on the General menu within Settings, including switching between a light and a dark interface mode and choosing from a list of available screensavers.

2. Tame your notifications

If you install apps that support notifications—like the Apple TV app, which will alert you to new shows—you’ll see badges on the app icons when there’s a new alert. If you’d rather not have the extra clutter, go to Settings and open up Notifications, where you can turn these badges on or off for each app.

You can double-tap the Home button (which looks like a big TV display) to show all of your recent apps. Within an app, if you slide a finger left or right on the touch-sensitive top half of the Touch Remote or tap the left or right side of the clickpad ring on the Siri Remote, you’ll go backward or forward in videos and audio tracks.

A downward swipe (Touch Remote) or a tap on the bottom part of the clickpad ring (Siri Remote) brings up more options while you’re watching something. The options vary by app, but in the Netflix app, for example, it will bring up the subtitle and audio options.

If you find your remote too sensitive, or not sensitive enough, head to the Settings app, then choose Remotes and Devices to adjust it. You can check on the remote’s battery level at the same time.

4. Control the Apple TV 4K with your iPhone

You can use your iPhone to control your Apple TV 4K, and you may find that easier than the device’s remote. Setting this up is as simple as opening the Control Center (swipe down from the top right corner of your phone’s screen), then tapping on the remote button (which looks like your Apple TV 4K remote). If you can’t see the button, open iOS Settings and choose Control Center to add and position it.

[Related: All the ways to customize your iPhone lock screen]

5. Get info on your screensavers

The Apple TV 4K has some of the most gorgeous screensavers in the business. If you find yourself particularly taken with a scene and want to know where in the world it is, lightly touch the top half of the Touch Remote or the clickpad on the Siri Remote (without actually clicking) to see the location.

6. Add more users

You don’t necessarily want family members or housemates ruining your Disney Plus recommendations list or checking out your photos and videos, which is why the Apple TV 4K supports multiple user accounts. From Settings, pick Users and Accounts, then Add New User. This new user will need their own Apple ID, which grants them access to all their apps and services. You can swap between users from the same screen, or by pressing and holding the Home button (with the TV display icon on it).

7. Check how much space apps are using

You get a certain amount of on-board storage with the Apple TV 4K, but all those high-resolution movies can quickly eat up precious space, and you don’t want to run out of room. If you need to free up some storage, you can see which installed apps are the biggest data hogs by going to Settings and choosing General, followed by Manage Storage.

The next screen will show all the apps on your Apple TV 4K, with the bulkiest (perhaps a game of some sort) at the top. Handily enough, there’s a trash can right by each entry on the list—tap this icon once to delete the app and free up some space. The Apple TV 4K remembers your app purchases, so you can always download them again.

8. Do more with Bluetooth devices

Your Apple TV 4K has Bluetooth, so make the most of it. You might already know you can boost the audio capabilities of your box with Bluetooth speakers or your own headphones, but you can connect other devices as well. Up to two Bluetooth devices can be connected to your Apple TV 4K at any one time.

For example, tvOS now supports Bluetooth keyboards, which means you can save yourself the hassle of typing out movie titles and search requests—just swap the Touch Remote or Siri Remote for a keyboard.

Or, add an MFi Bluetooth game controller to give yourself more intuitive control over your big-screen games. From the Settings app, head to Remotes and Devices, then choose Bluetooth to pair devices or to remove one device and make room for another.

9. Make your Apple TV kid-friendly

The Apple TV can entertain kids of all ages, but you don’t necessarily want your youngsters to access all available material or start spending your money on in-app purchases.

On top of that, you can disable multiplayer gaming, screen recording, and even explicit language in Siri’s responses. All of these blocks and limits are protected by a PIN code, which must be entered to turn them off again.

Just install Plex on your computer and install the Plex app on your Apple TV to get started. If you need a little more help, Plex has more information about setting up the app. VLC Media Player is also worth a mention here, as it’s one of the most versatile media players for computers and phones. On the Apple TV, it provides support for streaming almost anything from your local network.

12. Calibrate your TV picture

The Apple TV 4K offers a rather smart color calibration feature, which you can use if you also have an iPhone. From Settings, choose Video and Audio, then Color Balance, and follow the instructions on screen. Note that you’ll need to turn your iPhone toward your TV to monitor and adjust the balance of colors. When the calibration is done, which only takes a few seconds, you’ll have the option to accept the new settings or go back to the original calibration.

13. Get help from Siri

Siri is available on the Apple TV, so make use of the voice-controlled assistant by pressing and holding on the Siri (microphone) button on the remote—it’s on the front on the Touch Remote and on the side on the Siri Remote.

Try asking, “What’s the weather forecast?” or saying, “Show me comedy movies from the 90s” (or whatever genre you’d prefer). The best part is, Siri’s results pop up at the bottom of the screen most of the time, so they won’t interrupt what you’re doing.

When watching movies and shows, you can say, “Forward 10 minutes” to jump around, or ask, “Who stars in this?” to get a list of cast members to appear on screen. Another good vocal trick is asking, “What did he (or she, or they) just say?” This prompts Siri to rewind whatever you’re watching by 15 seconds and temporarily turn subtitles on. Meanwhile, saying, “Reduce loud sounds” can make it easier to hear dialogue.

14. Use picture-in-picture

The post 14 crisp tips for your Apple TV box appeared first on Popular Science.

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Quick Response (QR) codes were popular before the COVID-19 pandemic, but now they’re everywhere, from restaurant menus to billboards. These square codes are quick and easy to use, and anyone can scan them on their mobile device using its built-in camera, no special app or update necessary. 

If you’ve ever wondered how to make a QR code, know that it doesn’t require any great degree of technical know-how or a huge amount of time. You just need the right app and the content you want to encode.

[Related: QR codes are everywhere now. Here’s how to use them.]

On mobile, the process is similar:

Chrome’s QR code generator is free and easy to use, but gives you little in terms of customization. If you create the code on an Android device or a computer, it will always have the Chrome dinosaur in the middle, but you can avoid that by using an Apple mobile device instead.

You can also try The QR Code Generator, which has nearly the same name as the one we just mentioned. You can easily access this free platform from your browser, and you can start creating QR codes from the get-go. To enjoy features like the ability to add logos, make simpler patterns, or generate dynamic QR codes, you’ll have to create an account. But if you have basic needs, this site is intuitive and provides everything you’ll need.  

What you can do with QR codes

QR codes can store around 4,000 characters of text, which can be a plain message, a link to a website, a file to download, or pretty much any other information you can think of. You’re probably most familiar with their ability to store website URLs, whether that’s a portal to a company website on an advertisement or a shortcut to a bar’s drinks list.

The post How to make a QR code and share digital data with anyone, anywhere appeared first on Popular Science.

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Best Overall		HP F660		SEE IT	Loop recording, a wide angle lens, and G-Shock sensor are just some of the features of this easily installed option.
Best 2-Channel		Ssontong Dash Cam		SEE IT	Including a backup cam with guidelines and a sensitive G-Sensor, this bundle (also available with four channels) offers a full value.
Best Parking Mode		Vantrue N1 Pro		SEE IT	Superior night vision, quality collision and motion detection, plus battery protection help make sure your car is monitored even in the dark.

For years, dash cams for cars have been a great way to catch hit-and-run automobile accidents, staged pedestrian accident scams, and even Russian meteor showers. For a long time, having this ability to monitor what really happens on the exterior of your car, and being able to carefully review the data after the fact, has seemed like a luxury. It was something you might have appreciated but didn’t necessarily seem like something that’d be worth the extra buck to put in your car. But now, the year is 2022 and the best dash cams under $100 that we’ve collected are actually solid, working units ready to help you out in a pinch. 

• Best overall: HP F650
• Best 2-channel: Ssontong Dash Cam
• Best parking mode: Vantrue N1 Pro
• Best heat handling: REXING V1
• Best budget: Angel Case Dash Cam

How we selected the best dash cams under $100

Selecting budget products can always be a bit tricky due to manufacturer shortcuts, inferior hardware, and the possibility of outright fraud. Fortunately, for dash cams, there are still high-quality products in the budget range. To find the best of the best, we scoured dash cam reviews from critics and real-world users, combining these with peer suggestions to select dash cams that boasted good specs but also provided intensive value for the cost. Highlighting cams across the full price spectrum—from the REXING V1 at just under $100 before tax to the Angel Case Dash Cam sitting at under $40—was also made a priority. In the end, we were able to compile a list of dash cams that you will be able to select something from.

The best dash cams under $100: Reviews & Recommendations

The following dash cams provide quality in a variety of different situations for people of all budgets. While none are particularly specialized, it is quite incredible that we were able to find one that can handle many channels well, another one that handles parking mode and night vision well, and yet another one that can handle fairly extreme temperatures, all on one budget list. As a result, it is our firm belief that you’ll be able to find something worthy of both your dash and your wallet from the following selections.

Best overall: HP F650

HP

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: This is a quick installation product that will get you started and dash cam ready within minutes.

Specs

• Storage: 32GB MicroSD
• Viewing angle: 150 degrees
• Resolution: 1080P front

Pros

• Warning system
• Low effort installation
• Loop recording with event highlights
• Locks video clips when an accident occurs

Cons

• No rear-facing camera

The F650 is a dash cam from your favorite laptop and printer maker, HP. It has a lot of features built-in that you will certainly want, but probably weren’t necessarily expecting to come together in one budget model. The F650 has simple, stick-on installation, and smart loop recording that locks files around the time of collisions. The dash cam’s 150 degree field of view means it’ll capture view of four lanes of traffic.

If you get into an accident, the F650’s G-Shock sensor will trigger, which will lock any video it records to prevent it from being overwritten. This is handy if you need to present evidence to the police several days after the incident occurs. This dash cam records video onto a MicroSD card, and while HP doesn’t include one in the box, you can get a 32GB card for well under $10.

It goes without saying that the HP F650 tops our list due to its insane value for the cost and its feature-packed nature. Like a lot of HP products, the F650 isn’t the best possible model out there but is instead an affordable product that tries its best to provide value to average customers. We wish it had a rear-facing camera to record video of what’s happening in your vehicle, but that isn’t a dealbreaker considering its sub $50 price.

Best 2-channel: Ssontong Dash Cam

Ssontong

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: The Ssontong Dash Cam comes with a fully featured backup cam, all for under $50.

Specs

• Storage: 32GB SD
• Angle of view: 170 degrees front / 140 degrees rear
• Resolution: 1080P front / 720P rear

Pros

• Includes backup cam with guidelines
• Sensitive G-Sensor
• Full value for price
• Bundles available for four channels

Cons

• Low angle of view rear cam

While the HP F660G has a second cam, the Ssontong’s second channel cam acts as a full backup camera with guidelines and everything. While the rear cam isn’t quite up to the standards of a backup cam proper (it has a low 140-degree angle of view), you are also getting it as part of a complete system for under $100. Note, too, that the Ssontong can become a four-channel system and has bundle deals available if you wish to expand the system to be larger.

The Ssontong comes alive when you aren’t driving quickly via the G-Sensor, which rapidly detects vibrations. Even small wiggles, such as from a shut trunk or when you go back into your car to retrieve the bag you left in the back, will trigger it into full recording mode.

Overall, the Ssontong takes the throne for low-budget multi-channel dash cams. Even if you upgrade to include more channels, which might take you over $100, you’re still getting discounts and good deals at every corner. Ultimately, the Ssontong is a solid choice worthy of its dollar value.

Best parking mode: Vantrue N1 Pro

Vantrue

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: The Vantrue N1 Pro works wonders at night, making its 24-hour parking mode worth every dollar.

Specs

• Storage: Up to 256GB MicroSD (not included)
• Angle of view: 160 degrees
• Resolution: 1080P 

Pros

• Superior night vision
• Quality collision AND motion detection
• Battery protection

Cons

• Front cam only

The Vantrue N1 is a seemingly standard forward-facing dash cam but—much like vampires, werewolves, and teenagers—doesn’t begin to show its real power until night falls. Again, it’s not bad during the day with the standard 1080P resolution, relatively good 160-degree angle of view, and high storage capacity. You can even get GPS functionality for around $20 more if you buy the N1 Pro add-on, which will put the total purchase right around the $100 mark. However, what you really want to see is how it functions at night.

When engaged in parking mode, you have a couple of modes to explore. First, there is collision-detection mode, which requires no extra steps to use. When your car is hit during parking mode, your Vantrue N1 camera will come alive and take a quick 20-second video for you to review later. The other option is a slightly more complex motion-detection mode, which requires a bit of wiring so the cam has access to your car’s battery. Your battery is protected from draining completely even while this mode is engaged due to battery protection mechanisms.

All of these great parking features go hand-in-hand with the “SONY Sensor.” This night vision brand is well-received by customers and actually works pretty well in a variety of environments. Combined with the recording modes above, you’re likely to have a good parking-mode experience with Vantrue. If it only had an included rear cam, it’d be just about perfect.

Best heat handling: REXING V1

REXING

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: If you’ve ever worried about heat (or cold) affecting a dash cam, you can relax with the REXING V1.

Specs

• Storage: Up to 256GB MicroSD (not included)
• Temperature range: -20 degrees to 176 degrees Fahrenheit
• Angle of view: 170 degrees

Pros

• Best temperature range
• Sharp, clear image
• Phone support

Cons

• Tax could take it over $100
• Front cam only

As heat does affect cams to some degree, you’ll want some tough heat resistance if you are expecting to blast through yet another summer heat wave and possibly leave the cam in your car. With a 176 degree Fahrenheit max, way above the 117 degrees your car can become after an hour in 95-degree heat, the REXING V1 is a cam you can feel truly secure leaving in any conditions.

Furthermore, the REXING V1 can even function down at an extreme: -20 degrees Fahrenheit. Compare that to the Vantrue N1 Pro’s already ambitious -4 to 158 degrees Fahrenheit range and you’ll see that you’re gaining 28 degrees of flexibility with the REXING V1.

All of this comes with a high-quality cam that produces sharp, clear imagery. In addition to the typical loop recording, the REXING V1 is also capable of connecting with your phone and you can offload clips that way as well. If only it came with a rear camera that was just as capable, it’d be perfect.

The only other downside I can really see for this one is that it is on the higher side of product costs. If you encounter any sales tax, you’ll probably slide over $100. It’s a technicality, but worth mentioning!

Best budget: Angel Case Dash Cam

Zhrmghg

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: The Angel Case may not be easily pronounceable, but it is an ultra-low budget, legitimate dash cam with outstandingly good customer reviews.

Specs

• Storage: Up to 32GB MicroSD (not included)
• Angle of view: 170 degrees
• Resolution: 1080P 

Pros

• Quick installation
• Fully featured
• Incredible customer satisfaction

Cons

• Cheap suction mount
• Front cam only

For your super-budget needs, the ultra-affordable Angel Case is here for you. This cam is under $35 dollars and comes fully featured, making it our cheapest dash cam pick. It has the loop recording (with locks for special events), the parking modes and G-Sensors, and even the night vision you expect from higher models. Its installation is remarkably quick, too, though it does use an admittedly cheap suction-cup mechanism.

It’s worth noting that Angel Case has something special, in that it is one of the best-rated dash cams on Amazon. Not just in the best budget dash cams but in all of them, though the outrageously low price certainly is a contributing factor. Customers just love it and that certainly makes it something worth checking out.

Still, there are things to be desired coming from the Zhrmghg. In addition to somewhat more secure mounting, it’d be nice to see a rear cam, too. However, it is hard to expect too many extras when you’re getting sub-$50 quality. The Zhrmghg will serve you well and get you far beyond that bare minimum of peace of mind that you’re after.

Things to consider before buying dash cams under $100

Overall, selecting a dash cam under $100 isn’t too far off from buying other dash cams for your car. However, when looking at low-price products, different trends and problems will emerge. So, while things like resolution and screen type are still important, you may run into more important problems or have different concerns altogether as a budget customer. Here’s what we suggest you look at, specifically, when searching for the best dash cams under $100:

Recording time

How much time can a dash cam under $100 record for? It’s actually a pretty complex question, that won’t have the simple numeral answer you’re hoping for. At the most basic, you have to worry about power supply, but also the dash cam’s storage capacity. When you’re working within price limitations, there is a chance that either one of these factors will become the limiting one.

Manufacturers are, of course, aware of the difficulties of giving you something functional while keeping within tight production budgets. While not all companies will be dedicated enough to give you something functional, there are some pretty intelligent design features that make dash cams under $100 workable. Here are just a few of them I’ve seen quite a bit of:

Shake-on recording: You might be aware of systems that make a note of when activity is detected so you can come back and review the relevant footage later. Unfortunately, that mechanism won’t save battery and storage space. Instead, dash cams with shake-on recording come “alive” when the car is shook or jostled, recording what happens in these key moments.

This tech comes by many names, such as “collision detection” or “G-sensor,” but all of them work similarly. While the feature is fairly ubiquitous, more advanced units have settings that will let you determine the threshold for turning on. For example, if you park in a parking tower that vibrates a bit as cars drive by, you might not want just any bump setting off your dash cam. 

Loop recording: First-In-First-Out, or “FIFO,” is one of the first rules of the kitchen. It also appears as “loop recording” for dash cams and can make for a really good file storage system when you’re working on a budget. Instead of stopping future recordings when the system becomes full, dash cams with this style of recording start deleting your oldest files automatically to make room for new stuff.

This system has the advantage of making sure the latest information is taken into account but you do run the risk of losing something important if you don’t regularly backup your data. Many dash cams with shake-on recording will designate files taken around the time of a shaking incident as important and ‘lock’ them for later viewing.

All of the dash cams on our list use loop recording and it isn’t hard to figure out why—the system is a fantastic complement to the way dash cams operate. Still, if you’re planning on searching for your own budget dash cam, this is a keyword to look out for.

SD storage: Dash cams, and especially those under $100, typically store footage to an SD or MicroSD storage card. In many cases, a card will be provided with the purchase, but double-check to be sure.

This supplied card probably won’t have as much storage space as the ones we’ve detailed in our best MicroSD and SD card articles, considering the cost restrictions. If you are concerned about the storage space of the card given, be sure to check those articles out. Also, pay careful attention to which type of memory card your purchased dash cam uses, as MicroSD and SD are not the same!

Lastly, some of the dash cams on the list actually have a storage maximum. In other words, they aren’t designed to work with cards above a certain value. So, getting the best MicroSD or SD card isn’t necessarily going to be the best decision for your dash cam experience.

Viewing angle

Viewing angle becomes very important when you’re trying to get as much information as possible. Having too narrow of a view angle, and subsequently completely missing out on an accident that you should have been able to capture, completely misses the point of having a dash cam in the first place. On the other hand, if your viewing angle is too wide you could encounter other problems, such as barrel distortion, which causes straight lines to appear awkwardly bent. A viewing angle between 150 degrees and 170 degrees will be best in most cases.

Night-vision quality

If you’re wanting to know what goes bump in the night, or at least what bumps into your car at night, then you’ll need some degree of night vision. There is a lot of technical jargon, mixed with some company labeling, so expect to see a lot of different claims out there. Examples include technical explanation, such as using f/2.8 aperture lenses, or more vague gestures that reference the brand name’s “special” night-vision formula.

Luckily, you don’t really need to look at numbers or technical stats to understand night-vision quality—you need to look at pictures or at least get a sense of what you’ll be able to see. In reality, when it comes to night vision quality, your best friend is going to be user reviews, image stills, and word of mouth.

FAQs

Final thoughts on the best dash cams under $100

• Best overall: HP F650
• Best 2-channel: Ssontong Dash Cam
• Best parking mode: Vantrue N1 Pro
• Best heat handling: REXING V1
• Best budget: Angel Case Dash Cam

By now you should have a good idea of what dash cam you want for your car, depending on your needs. Additionally, you’ll have a firm idea of what the best dash cams under $100 have to offer in case you decide to do some further digging. In any event, while your package is on its way, be sure to check out the easiest way to install a dash cam so you’re 100% ready when it arrives!

Why trust us

Popular Science started writing about technology more than 150 years ago. There was no such thing as “gadget writing” when we published our first issue in 1872, but if there was, our mission to demystify the world of innovation for everyday readers means we would have been all over it. Here in the present, PopSci is fully committed to helping readers navigate the increasingly intimidating array of devices on the market right now.

Our writers and editors have combined decades of experience covering and reviewing consumer electronics. We each have our own obsessive specialties—from high-end audio to video games to cameras and beyond—but when we’re reviewing devices outside of our immediate wheelhouses, we do our best to seek out trustworthy voices and opinions to help guide people to the very best recommendations. We know we don’t know everything, but we’re excited to live through the analysis paralysis that internet shopping can spur so readers don’t have to.

The post The best dash cams under $100 in 2023 appeared first on Popular Science.

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When most people go hiking, they reach for stiff, heavy, boots with high-rise ankle support and thick soles. But others choose to go in the exact opposite direction and instead grab breathable, lightweight, flexible footwear that allows for more organic movement.

The concept of barefoot shoes is something of an oxymoron, but proponents of this style rave about the footwear’s ability to strengthen your feet and allow you to enjoy a more holistic experience outdoors. But hitting the trail in minimalist shoes requires some knowhow, lest you end up hobbling home with supremely sore feet–or worse.

The differences, however, are easy to spot if you know what to look for. Most barefoot shoes feature little to no cushioning, a thinner, more flexible sole, a wide toe box, and minimal arch support, if any. This design is based on foot anatomy and aims to allow more natural foot movement, feeling, and balance.

Barefoot shoes forgo some of the classic characteristics that pop to mind when you think of boots made for the outdoors, like narrow toe boxes and aggressive stabilization elements such as heel cups. But these minimalist hiking shoes can still offer features like high ankles, deep treads, and durable materials—after all, they’re still made for hiking.

Why barefoot shoes might be better for hiking

Most people don’t actually need any of the built-up features in conventional footwear, says Emily Splichal of the Center for Functional and Regenerative Podiatric Medicine in Chandler, Arizona. She is a functional podiatrist, human movement specialist, and educator on natural foot function. In fact, all that cushioning and support may be doing more harm than good.

Splichal explains that shodding your feet in footwear that highly restricts your range of motion can result in your feet becoming weaker from lack of use over time.

[Related: Walking correctly takes work—here’s how to improve every step]

Barefoot shoes, on the other hand, especially when combined with foot exercises like the ones Splichal recommends to her patients, do the opposite. A 2019 study from Brigham Young University in Utah showed that walking in minimalist shoes increases foot muscle size and strength. Plus, strengthening bones, muscles and tendons “can offer benefits all the way up your spine,” Splichal states. 

Other studies, plus anecdotal and anthropological evidence, also suggest that providing a wider range of motion to the feet (like barefoot shoes do) results in stronger, more stable muscles.

After all, our ancestors didn’t have super cushioning foam insoles or rigid arch support, and they got around just fine.

Potential health benefits of barefoot shoes

Most research on the matter has looked into the positive effects of barefoot shoes for running and walking, but don’t assume rough terrain is an exception. Splichal explains that the freedom of motion provided by barefoot-style shoes help train your body to move and respond to irregular surfaces–like trails covered in rocks and roots.

Less structured footwear can also help with balance, as allowing your feet to move and flex more naturally can unlock a natural stabilization response, Splichal explains.

So, if you step on an angled rock, a stronger foot and ankle, paired with a flexible shoe, can help keep you centered and upright and better able to react to uneven surfaces.

Hitting the trail with little between your skin and the ground also brings cognitive benefits. The slim sole on barefoot shoes will allow you to feel the earth beneath you, which a 2015 study from the University of North Florida, can help with memory retention. Plus, feeling the changes in terrain and the heat or coolness of the ground will provide a delightful boost in sensory stimulation.

For starters, while Splichal advocates for this type of footwear for most people, she mentions there are certain foot types that can’t control the freedom of motion a barefoot shoe offers and may not be able to wear them for long periods of time or may never be able to fully transition. 

[Related: How to save your feet from painful blisters]

This includes people with flat feet or feet that are overpronated due to ligament laxity. People with high-arched rigid feet may also struggle with barefoot shoes, as they often need the cushioning of conventional footwear to help absorb impact when walking for long periods of time. Foot injuries or plantar fasciitis can also make wearing minimalist shoes difficult, at first, but a slow transition can make things easier and more comfortable.

If you think you might have one of these conditions but are not entirely sure, a podiatrist like Splichal can help you make the determination. She even has instructional videos online about how to assess your feet.

How to start using barefoot shoes

If you decide to ditch your heavy boots and give barefoot shoes a try, you should do so slowly and with caution, as your feet won’t be used to the higher stress and load they’ll be experiencing. After all, you wouldn’t hit the gym after years of inactivity, lift the heaviest weights you can manage, and not expect to be sore the next morning.

So if you don’t have a foot type or condition that prevents wearing barefoot shoes, Splichal recommends transitioning by hiking on smooth terrain at first, which will help build strength, awareness and stabilization. And since your feet will be working harder than usual in the beginning, do the same thing you’d do after a strenuous workout: balance it with recovery.

Use a golf ball, small cork ball, or—Splichal’s favorite—a Neuro Ball, but instead of rolling it under your feet, stand on it. This will create pressure, which will result in a sort of deep-tissue massage to five points on the bottom of your feet: where your heel meets your mid-foot, the middle of your foot, the ball of your foot, the center of your arch, and the outside edge of your foot.

Then, work on strengthening your feet, which you can do while cooking dinner or watching TV. Splichal recommends an exercise called “short foot,” where you stand up straight, lift your toes, spread them out wide, and place them back on the floor. Inhale through the nose and as you exhale, push the tips of the toes down into the ground. Splichal says to use 20 percent of your maximum strength while engaging your core. Hold your toes down for the full length of your exhalation, then relax, inhale and repeat five times.

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If the thought of friends, family, and coworkers admiring your custom laptop stand isn’t enough to get you picking out wood, let’s circle back to those benefits. By elevating your computer, you raise the screen, which can help reduce eye and neck strain while you’re working. Ideally, the top of your display should be at or just below eye level, so you’re looking down slightly while using it, according to the US Occupational Safety and Health Administration. Much better than craning your neck up or down to see what you’re doing.  

A good laptop stand will also help your computer stay cool. The central processing unit (CPU), memory, and WiFi card are typically the three biggest heat producers in a laptop, says Gregor Angus Berkowitz, a computer engineer and managing partner at GBA, a technical management consultancy in California. This heat comes from the electrical resistance in those units as they consume power to perform their processing functions.  

“It’s kind of a runaway scenario where as they get hotter they become more inefficient and use more power and battery,” Berkowitz says. “If you can keep your CPU and memory cooler, it uses less power.”

Although it’s difficult to damage your computer these days by letting it overheat, your laptop’s internal temperature measurement devices will throttle the CPU and eventually shut down the device before anything catastrophic happens, Berkowitz explains. Still, a hot computer will make your life harder.

The laptop stand I designed has a rail-mounted approach, and includes holes in its side panels to ensure that air can move beneath the laptop from any direction to dissipate heat. It’s also easy to make from scrap wood, and you can modify the design to match any wood you have on hand. I didn’t actually design anything up front—I just stared at the boards I wanted to use until the final vision came to me. I’ll save you that trouble though, and you can just copy mine.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a face mask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

How to build a wooden laptop stand

Stats

• Time: 2 to 4 hours
• Material cost: $5 to $20
• Difficulty: moderate

Materials

• 1 (2- to 3-foot-long) piece of 1-by-6 board
• 5 (1- to 2-inch wide) boards 12 to 13 inches long
• Wood glue

Tools

• Table saw
• Crosscut sled
• Jointer
• Planer
• Tape measure
• Angle finder
• Marking gauge
• Orbital sander
• Router
• Sanding discs (120-, 150-, and 220-grit)
• Clamps
• Drill press (or drill)
• Roundover bit
• (Optional) card scraper

Instructions

1. Choose the dimensions and angle for your laptop stand. These measurements should be based on a few factors. The first is the size of the bottom of your laptop. The stand should be an inch or two narrower than your laptop, left to right, and an inch or so larger than it, front to back. You’ll also want to consider whether it will be dedicated to one laptop, or if multiple people might use it. I made mine 13 inches deep instead of the 11.5 it actually needed to be, for example, so the family member who requested it could keep using it if they got a larger computer in the future.

The second consideration is the height of the stand. Based on the idea that the top of the screen should be at or just below eye level when you’re sitting at your desk, calculate the height needed to raise your laptop that tall. I designed my stand to be about 5 inches tall in the back, which raises the top of the monitor about 15 inches above the desk top.

• Pro tip: Even if you don’t follow my design, Berkowitz cautions that DIY laptop stands should be fairly skeletal, leaving as much of the computer exposed as possible. Placing the laptop on a solid sheet of plywood, for instance, would be adding insulation below, preventing effective heat dissipation.

2. Mill your boards to their final dimensions. This is a project where well-milled boards are important, because there are some precise sizes and joinery involved. I wrote a guide on how to mill wood at home if you need more details, but the steps are pretty straightforward. First, use a jointer to flatten one face and edge of each board so they are at a perfect right angle to one another. Next, run the wood through the planer to its final thickness, in this case around half an inch. Then cut them to their final width on your table saw. If you don’t have a jointer, you can flatten the faces of the boards with a hand plane, or a jointer sled in your planer, and square the edge on your table saw with the help of a level. 

When you’re done milling, you should have seven boards, all about half an inch thick. Adjust these dimensions as needed to fit your computer: 

• 2 (12-by-5-inch) boards for the two side panels
• 4 (12-by-1-inch) pieces for the top and rear braces and the legs
• 1 (12-by-½-inch) piece for the front brace (the computer stop)

3. Cut the angle for the top of the stand. I didn’t precisely measure my angle, but I decided to settle between 15 and 20 degrees after looking at some pictures and doing some testing with my laptop. To find the right slope, I put my laptop down on the desk, then raised the back up with some scrap boards until I found a comfortable typing angle. I measured that with my angle gauge and transferred that slope to the side panels.

To cut the angle easily, and to make sure both were exactly the same, I used a tapering jig. You can buy a fancy one, but it’s easy enough to build your own simple jig with some leftover plywood. 

[Related: The surprising woodworking tools you already have around the house]

Mark the line of your angle on the side panels, then position that line along the edge of the tapering jig. Run both boards through your table saw one at a time, and you’ll end up with perfectly matched angles for the laptop to sit on.  

4. Plan to cut rabbets into the side panels to hold the legs, braces, and computer stop. Rabbets are slots cut into the edges of boards to hold wood together more securely than butting them together. Because one board is inset into another, this kind of joint has both mechanical strength and increased surface area for glue to adhere to.

The easiest way to cut rabbets consistently is with a table saw and a crosscut sled. Measure and mark the positions and depths of each rabbet carefully. I use my wheel marking gauge for this because it’s the most accurate and consistent, but you can use a sharp pencil as well.

Each side panel should have five rabbets, and it may help if you imagine the boards standing on edge, as they will in the final project:

• 2 on the bottom edge to hold the leg pieces
• 1 at the front of the top edge (the lowest part of the angle) to hold the computer stop
• 1 at the back of the top edge to hold the top brace
• 1 in the center of the back edge to hold the rear brace

While the rabbets for the top and rear braces should be as deep as those pieces are thick—so they fit within the original shape of each side panel—the rabbets for the computer stop and legs should be about half the width of those pieces. This means they’ll sit a quarter inch or so higher than the edge of the side panels. Check the photo above if you need a visual guide.

• Note: You may want to test a few board thicknesses for the computer stop—it should rise above the side panel enough that the front of the laptop catches on it, which will vary based on the model you have. 

5. Cut the rabbets. To ensure that the cuts remained consistent across both side boards, I taped the two together with painter’s tape, keeping the edges perfectly flush, and cut them at the same time. Use a flat grind blade on your table saw if you have one, and use multiple passes to cut out each rabbet.

6. Drill ventilation holes in the side boards. When most laptops get too hot, internal fans kick on to circulate the air and move the heat away from delicate electrical components and out the back or bottom of the computer. Some laptops have passive cooling devices like heat pipes—small pipes filled with water or another coolant under a slight vacuum—that carry energy to a fan or radiator at the back of the computer. Whatever the case, if your stand simply traps that heat underneath the device, you’re not doing it any favors.

In order to keep the air flowing beneath my laptop stand, I added openings in the side panels. The easiest way to do this is to drill some holes with a 1.5- to 2-inch Forstner bit, or route out some slots. I decided to get fancy with mine, however, and drilled a series of holes, decreasing in size from 2 inches down to half an inch. These approximately follow the angle of the taper, creating a cool effect that didn’t take a ton of time… OK, that’s a lie—it took over an hour, between planning exactly which bits I wanted to use, how far apart to space the holes, and then drilling. Not to mention the increased sanding time. But I think the end result was worth it.

7. Round over all the exposed corners. This step takes some planning. You’ll want to round over all the outside edges of all the pieces, but not the edges that will be inside a rabbet. Otherwise you’ll get an awkward gap in the corners of the rabbets.

[Related: A beginner’s guide to Shapr3D]

Mark the edges you want to round over, as well as the ones you don’t, and try not to talk yourself into adding more roundovers in the heat of the moment when the router is in your hand. I did a few too many, and while the stand is structurally fine, the little gaps just mock me every time I look at them.

Use a router and whatever size roundover bit you have that makes sense with the aesthetic you’re going for. A router table is even better for this, if you have access to one.  

8. Sand. Sanding small projects like this gets tricky once they’re assembled, especially the interior parts. That’s why it’s a good practice to sand all of your pieces before assembly, even if you know you’ll have to do a bit more sanding later to clean up the seams. I’m lucky enough to have access to a drum sander at my local makerspace, so I used 120-grit sandpaper in that and finished this step in no time, with no hand cramping. Those of you without access to a drum sander, pick up that orbital sander and get cracking.

Ultimately, I decided to assemble the stand in two stages. The first stage was to get the three support boards glued into place, and then I would attach the legs once those were dry. I glued and clamped the rear brace first, using the computer stop as a reference to keep the front from folding in. Then I glued the top brace and computer stop into place, and adjusted everything so the diagonals from corner to corner of the stand were all the same length—that’s the best way to know that a box is actually square.

Once the supports were dry, I glued and clamped the legs in place.

I’m sure there’s a jig you can build to make this clamping process easier if you’re making a lot of laptop stands, but when the glue dried, I was only a sixteenth-inch off corner to corner, which is well within tolerances for this project.  

10. Clean up any glue squeeze-out or residue. No matter how diligent you are with cleaning up glue while it’s wet, there will probably be some stains left over. Clean those up in whatever way works best for you. Sandpaper is the most accessible, but a chisel can be useful to get into those hard-to-reach nooks and crannies. I’m also partial to using a card scraper, though that takes quite a bit of practice to learn to use well—I’m still not great with one.

11. Apply your favorite finish. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the bottle. I like spray-on polyurethane or shellac for a project like this, because it’s fast, easy, and the spray can get into those hard-to-reach areas better than brushes typically can. If you use a spray-on finish, be careful not to linger in one place—this will help you avoid getting runs or drips that you have to sand off. For a perfectly smooth finish, rub the final coat down with a piece of brown paper bag.  

Once the finish is shined up to your liking, you’re done. Plop it down on your desk, elevate that laptop, and listen to the far quieter hum of a laptop fan that isn’t constantly on the verge of overheating. Your ears will thank you, your patience will thank you as you avoid annoying computer slowdowns, and your newly comfortable computer components will thank you too.

The post This DIY laptop stand will help keep your computer cool appeared first on Popular Science.

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It’s a sign of the times that most new technology brings with it new privacy and security issues, and OpenAI’s ChatGPT is no exception. The text generator is truly impressive (at least to some), but it also raises questions about how it collects and processes our data.

ChatGPT’s developers trained the large language model on vast amounts of publicly available text on the web. But the chatbot also uses your conversations with it to learn, so if you want to protect your privacy, you’ll need to know what your options are. 

From that point on, every time you close the browser tab, your conversation log with ChatGPT will disappear from your account. But that doesn’t mean it’s entirely gone—behind the scenes OpenAI hangs on to your chat history for 30 days to “monitor for abuse” before permanently deleting it.

Back on the Data Controls menu, there’s an Export data option. This won’t affect how OpenAI uses your information or delete what it has already collected, but it gives you a better idea of what OpenAI has on you. It might include chats you haven’t erased and the feedback you’ve given to ChatGPT’s responses. 

If there’s anything in there you’re not comfortable with, you can manually wipe your chat history. Back on the ChatGPT interface, click your username and then Clear conversations to get rid of your entire log all at once, or click the trash can icon next to any specific chat to wipe it out. ChatGPT won’t be able to use deleted conversations for training, but depending on how long your chat history has been there, the chatbot might have gotten to it before you did. To prevent that from happening in the future, or just in case someone gets access to your computer and wants to take a peek at your conversations, it’s a good idea to tidy your chat log up every now and again.

Finally, if you no longer want to talk to ChatGPT, you always have the option to delete your account, which you can do from the Data Controls panel.

The chatbot’s privacy policy says OpenAI logs data such as your conversations and the features you engage with, and may share “aggregated information” such as user statistics with third parties. As a response to legal requests from law enforcement, for example, the company may also share users’ personal information, such as email addresses and location data, with “affiliates.” But the document is vague and doesn’t specify who these affiliates might be exactly. 

It’s a standard privacy policy, but the rule is clearly the same as with most platforms online: the less you’re sharing about yourself, the better. That won’t only protect you from questionable privacy practices OpenAI might have in the future, but also from bugs and hacks. For example, a recent ChatGPT outage resulted in people seeing titles from other active user’s chat history. 

If there’s public information about you on the internet, ChatGPT might be able to tell other users about you—and if that’s not scary enough, think about what could happen if it gets things wrong. If you want to correct inaccuracies or just stop ChatGPT from learning about you, you can fill out this form or get in touch with OpenAI via dsar@openai.com. You can learn more about the data ChatGPT is trained on in the platform’s support page.

When it comes to using an app or browser extension built on top of ChatGPT, you’ll need to apply the same caution you would with any other third party tool: check the permissions it requires, read through the privacy policy and terms and conditions, and find out about any associated costs, whether it’s subscription fees or in-app payments. 

As soon as something becomes as popular as ChatGPT, scammers and hackers also want in on it, so we’d also recommend researching the background of the developer behind any ChatGPT tool you use. 

The most trustworthy apps will have privacy and security settings of their own you can configure. When it comes to the ChatGPT-powered Bing AI chatbot run by Microsoft, for example, click the three horizontal lines in the top right corner of the Bing interface, then choose Search history to see the chats that you’ve had with the AI and to clear these results if needed.

The post 3 ways to prevent ChatGPT from using you as training data appeared first on Popular Science.

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How to set up a passkey for your Google account

Remember that at the moment, passkeys are only available for individual users, so you won’t find them on any Google Workspace account. To see what all the fuss is about, go to your Google Account page, look to the left-hand sidebar, and go to Security.

Under How to sign in to Google, click on Passkeys, and provide your password before you make any changes—this may be the last time you use it. On the next screen, you’ll notice a blue button that says Start with passkeys. Click on it and you’re done: Google will create the necessary passkeys and automatically save your private one to your device. The next time you log in, you’ll need to provide one of the authentication methods you’ve already set up for your computer or phone: your face, your fingerprint, or a personal identification number (PIN). 

[Related: How to secure your Google account]

If you have Android devices signed into your account, you’ll see them listed on the passkey menu as well. Google will automatically create those passkeys for you, so you’ll be able to seamlessly access your information on those devices. 

You can also use passkeys as backups to authenticate a login on another computer or smartphone. If you’re signing into your account on a borrowed laptop, for example, you can validate that new session by choosing your phone from the list that pops up when you choose passkeys as your authentication method. Then just follow the prompts on your phone, and you’ll be good to go. 

Now, a word of caution

Apple-exclusive environments have it easy. The Cupertino company syncs users’ passkeys using the iCloud keychain, so your private keys will all live simultaneously on your MacBook, iPhone, and iPad, as long as you’re signed into the same iCloud account. Add a Windows computer or an Android phone to the mix and things start to get messy—you may need to use a second device to verify your identity. This is when the backup devices mentioned above may come in handy. 

The post Ditch your Google password and set up a passkey instead appeared first on Popular Science.

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Android users are proud of our devices’ versatility, but many of us have been low-key jealous of Apple’s AirDrop, which allows iPhones, iPads, and Mac computers to seamlessly swap files within a certain physical distance. Google, naturally, came up with its own version of the feature—Nearby Share—but until recently it was only available on the company’s operating system.

Thanks to a new beta app, anyone with an Android device can now also share photos and documents with Windows 10 and 11 computers. Consider this your sign to get your PC and your Google-powered phone closer than ever.  

You will, however, need to have the right app on your PC. You can download it by going to Android’s official website and clicking on Get started with Beta. As you might have noticed from the site, the Nearby Share link between Android and Windows is only a beta program at the moment. This means you might find some bugs, and things might change a bit between now and the moment the feature officially launches. Don’t be scared though, as beta programs are common and the fact they’re open to the public means you shouldn’t run into too many serious problems.

[Related: 5 security questions to ask before installing any app]

Once the app is installed, it will prompt you to sign into your Google account. If you have multiple, using a different account from the one on your phone won’t prevent you from sharing files, but it will add a few steps. When you’re using the same account on your phone and PC, Nearby Share will assume you’re sending files to yourself so the process will happen automatically. 

Keep in mind that this name will appear on the devices of the people you’re sharing files with, so if your personal computer is named something like “HELL_RAISER_PC,” you might want to opt for a neutral one if you plan to share stuff with professional contacts. 

Next, you’ll be able to set the visibility of your device by clicking the Receive from drop-down menu. It’ll be set by default to your contacts, meaning only people you’ve saved to your phone will be able to send you things. You can also opt to receive files from everyone, which will allow you to connect with all non-Apple phones and computers around you, or from your devices, which will make your PC visible only to gadgets signed into your Google account. Your last option is the more secure Device is hidden, which means you’ll have to manually change this setting every time you want to share anything through Nearby Share. 

Click the cog icon on the top right of the app’s interface to find more options. Under Save received files to you’ll be able to change the folder where Nearby Share items go—it’ll be set to your Downloads folder by default. Lastly, if you want to keep some privacy, toggle off the switch next to Send usage & diagnostics data, which will prevent Google from getting information on how you use this feature. 

From your PC, just drop a document into the open app or click on the Select files or Select folder links at the bottom of the interface. Once you do that, Nearby Share will list all eligible devices around you—pick the one you want to start the connection. If you’re sending and receiving from the same Google account, the process will be automatic, and you’ll get a notification on your phone to open the file either in Google Photos (if it’s an image) or in your phone’s Downloads folder. If the accounts don’t match, the same notification will prompt you to accept or reject the document.

[Related: Wireless sharing with Apple, Android, and Windows devices made easy]

Sending files from your phone to your PC is equally easy. Open a file in any app on your handheld device, tap Share or the share icon (a less-than symbol with circles on all points), and select Nearby. As long as your PC is unlocked, you’ll see its name on the screen—tap it and the transfer will begin either automatically or after you accept the emerging prompt on your computer screen. 

The post You can now use Android’s Nearby Share on PC appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Best Overall		Brother XM2701 Sewing Machine		SEE IT	This model is a solid, mechanical sewing machine that offers automated functioning for multiple sewing purposes.
Best Budget		Brother LX3817 Sewing Machine		SEE IT	Here’s a mechanical model that won’t stress the wallet while it offers versatile functioning and ease of use.
Best Computerized		Brother XR9550 Sewing and Quilting Machine		SEE IT	A computerized machine with 165 built-in stitch options along with push-button stitch selection and automated functions.

A great Brother sewing machine meet the needs of the user and provide years of dependable service. Brother Industries Ltd. (the company that manufactures Brother sewing machines) traces its history back more than 100 years. In 1908, Kanekichi Yasui founded the Yasui Sewing Machine company, working at his home in Nagoya, Japan. He repaired industrial sewing machines and manufactured machine parts for local use. When Yasui’s sons inherited his company, they changed the name to Yasui Brothers’ Sewing Machine Company, and the company title eventually shortened to Brother.

Throughout its 114-year history, Brother Industries has developed into a global leader in the design, innovation, and manufacturing of sewing machines. Currently, the company offers one of the most advanced line-ups of innovative machinery for home-sewing pursuits. Its models include reliable sewing machines for basic projects, as well as state-of-the-art, computerized models designed for advanced embroidery, quilting, and crafting. Consumers rely on the best Brother sewing machines to provide quality, value, and features for both utilitarian and creative purposes. Here are our picks of the best Brother sewing machines the company’s impressive line-up.

• Best overall: Brother XM2701 Sewing Machine
• Best computerized: Brother XR9550 Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best for embroidery: Brother SE1900 Sewing and Embroidery Machine
• Best for beginners: Brother CP60X Computerized Sewing Machine
• Best for quilting: Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best budget: Brother LX3817 Sewing Machine

How we chose the best Brother sewing machines

In the process of selecting six Brother sewing machines for our list of recommendations, we drew on personal experience, peer suggestions, and public opinion. We then narrowed it down to 11 different models and accessed the in-depth product details and specifications available on the Brother-USA company website. Then, we selected Brother products that are easily available and read the product descriptions, user impressions, and FAQs on retailer sites. Knowing that various readers bring an array of needs, preferences, and monetary resources to the search, we tried to assemble a diverse assortment of Brother sewing machines for our list.

We considered both computerized and mechanical sewing machines. Although the computerized models exhibit advanced, technological features, many users prefer the simple operating procedures and easy maintenance of the mechanical machines. Additionally, we looked for both computerized and mechanical models that provide automated processes such as needle threading and buttonhole making, as these features make sewing easier and more pleasurable. As a guiding principle, we searched for Brother sewing machines to meet the needs of beginning sewers and those who engage in basic sewing projects, as well as those with more advanced skills and experience in quilting, crafting, and fashion design. We endeavored to present Brother machines that meet the requirements of these various types of sewists. 

The best Brother sewing machines: Reviews & Recommendations

Best overall: Brother XM2701 Sewing Machine

Brother

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: The Brother XM2701 sewing machine offers versatility as it provides automated features and numerous built-in stitches for advanced sewists along with ease of operation for beginners. 

Specs

• Weight: 12.6 pounds
• Product dimensions: 12.1 x 5.9 x 15.3 inches
• Number of built-in stitches: 27

Pros

• Automatic buttonhole function
• Automatic needle threader
• Both decorative and straight built-in stitches
• 6 interchangeable feet included

Cons  

• Not computerized

The Brother XM2701 sewing machine is easy to operate, making it a viable choice for beginners. On the other hand, it boasts a wide array of stitch options as well as automated features that appeal to experienced sewing enthusiasts. Stitch options include multiple decorative and quilting stitches along with basic, straight stitches for seams and basting. With 27 built-in stitches and 63 stitch functions, users can create crafts, fashions, home decor items, and quilts. 

Although it is not a computerized machine, the XM2701 offers several automated features to make sewing projects go more smoothly and quickly. For example, the automatic needle threader eliminates the frustration and eye strain that come with threading the needle by hand. An automatic, 1-step buttonhole function saves time and ensures consistent, professional-looking results. Additionally, the task of winding the bobbin is an automatic process.

Several convenient features make the XM2701 a popular and versatile sewing machine. The jam-resistant, drop-in bobbin is located on the top of the machine to speed up the sewing process. The work area is brightly lit by an LED light. Additionally, the free arm feature makes it easy to manipulate the fabric when sewing cuffs, sleeves, and pants. 

The XM2701 model includes six interchangeable feet to accomplish multiple sewing tasks, including: Buttonhole foot; Zipper foot; Zigzag foot; Narrow hemmer; Blind stitch; and Button-sewing foot.

Best computerized: Brother XR9550 Sewing and Quilting Machine

Brother

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Why it made the cut: With computerized, push-button stitch selection and automatic functioning, the Brother XR9550 sewing machine offers advanced features for quilters, crafters, and hobbyists as well as sewing artists. 

Specs

• Weight: 10.14 pounds
• Product dimensions: 20 x 13.5 x 17.9 inches 
• Number of built-in stitches: 165

Pros

• Extra-wide sewing surface for large projects
• Push-button stitch selection, including decorative stitches and alphanumeric fonts
• Automatic needle threader
• Protective hard case included

Cons

• Not the best choice for beginners

For the avid sewist who is ready to take their craft to a more sophisticated level, the Brother XR 9550 computerized sewing machine provides numerous features to spark the imagination and facilitate creative success. The machine offers 165 built-in stitches. These include utilitarian and decorative stitches along with heirloom stitches. Choose from among eight different buttonhole styles and the machine will automatically sew a tailored buttonhole around any button. For monogramming and personalizing projects, a selection of 55 alphanumeric stitches facilitates automatically sewing letters, numbers, and symbols onto fabrics. 

Numerous features of this machine provide ease of operation, taking the stress and frustration out of sewing. The built-in stitches are clearly marked on the front of the machine. Simply push a button for the computerized stitch-selection function and a backlit LCD display shows the appropriate choice. Additionally, this machine includes an automatic needle threader and a jam-resistant, top drop-in bobbin.

Quilters appreciate the drop-feed feature that facilitates free-sewing for quilting. The work surface is illuminated with a bright LED light and the extra-wide table allows quilters to handle bulky fabrics and large projects. Alternatively, sewists can use the free arm to sew sleeves, cuffs, and trouser legs.

The XR9550 includes seven interchangeable sewing feet along with accessories, including: Zigzag foot; Buttonhole foot; Button-sewing foot; Overcasting foot; Blind stitch foot; Monogramming foot; Quilting foot; Protective, hard cover; and an Instructional DVD.

Best for embroidery: Brother SE1900 Sewing and Embroidery Machine

Brother

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Why it made the cut: Sewists can achieve artist-quality results in creative DIY projects by choosing from among 138 built-in embroidery designs included in the Brother SE1900 sewing and embroidery machine.

Specs

• Weight: 22.1 pounds
• Product dimensions: 23.19 x 11.54 x 13.43 inches 
• Number of built-in stitches: 138 embroidery designs + 240 built-in stitches

Pros

• Large number of built-in embroidery designs and stitches
• Built-in memory for imported embroidery designs
• Built-in memory for personal, custom-designed stitches
• LCD touchscreen display

Cons

• Not the best choice for beginners

Take your sewing and crafting projects to the artist level with the Brother SE1900 computerized sewing and embroidery machine. Select from among 138 built-in embroidery designs and see them displayed on the large-size, full-color, LCD touchscreen. Alternatively, users can import new designs and save them to the machine. Additionally, the machine is capable of combining designs and storing them in its memory. Measuring 5 inches by 7 inches, the embroidery field provides ample versatility for creative sewists. A hoop is included to facilitate larger embroidery designs, so users are limited only by their imaginations.  

The 240 built-in stitches inspire customizing a plethora of crafting, quilting, and garment-making activities. Among the stitch options, the SE1900 offers 11 built-in fonts for monogramming and personalizing the original projects. Additionally, 10 styles of buttonhole stitches facilitate automatic sewing of precisely sized buttonholes.

Several convenient features of this computerized machine take the effort and frustration out of sewing pursuits. The advanced, automatic needle threader eliminates threading the needle by hand. Instead, the thread inserts precisely through the eye of the needle with a simple press of a lever. The jam-resistant feature facilitates a consistent feed of thread from the top drop-in bobbin, preventing the work delays that come with tangled threads. With a maximum speed of 850 stitches per minute along with labor-saving features for smooth operation, sewing on the SE1900 is an enjoyable and inspiring experience.

To facilitate a broad array of sewing tasks, this machine includes eight interchangeable sewing feet, including: Blind stitch foot; Buttonhole foot; Button fitting foot; Zipper foot; Zigzag foot; Monogramming foot; and Overcasting foot.

Best for beginners: Brother CP60X Computerized Sewing Machine

Brother

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Why it made the cut: The easy-to-use Brother CP60X computerized sewing machine is a top choice for beginners to embark on a learning adventure in the world of sewing, quilting, and crafting.

Specs

• Weight: 14 pounds
• Product dimensions: 16.26 x 6.65 x 12.21 inches 
• Number of built-in stitches: 60

Pros

• Utilitarian and decorative stitches built in
• Automatic needle threader
• Durable metal frame
• Capable of sewing denim and thick fabrics

Cons

• Not capable of monogramming

Use the Brother CP60X computerized sewing machine to embark on a lifelong hobby of sewing, crafting, and quilting. It offers straightforward, easy-to-use operating procedures, suitable for beginning sewers. An array of 60 built-in stitch options is prominently displayed on the front of the machine. Make a choice by simply pressing a button and the information shows up on the clearly visible LCD screen. In addition to decorative and heirloom stitches, the machine offers a selection of seven auto-size, buttonhole stitches. 

With a fixed needle bar, this machine is particularly well-suited for beginning sewers. The needle remains fixed in place to ensure clean stitching and even seam lines. Additionally, the 2-step, automatic needle threader accurately pushes the thread through the eye of the needle. It saves time and frustration so that beginners can enjoy their sewing activities. 

The CP60X is a versatile sewing machine for multiple purposes. With its heavy-duty frame and exceptionally smooth feed system, the machine handles denim and other thick fabrics without snagging. A favorite feature of quilters, the drop-feed system allows free-motion sewing. Additionally, the machine facilitates free-arm sewing for constructing shirts, cuffs, and trousers. 

This CP60X provides an ample collection of accessories to get started with a sewing hobby. These include a 3-piece needle set, bobbins and a bobbin cover, a quilt guide, and a bilingual instruction manual. The included supply of seven interchangeable feet facilitates multiple types of sewing tasks, including: Blind stitch foot; Zigzag foot; Buttonhole foot; Button sewing foot; Overcasting foot; Zipper foot; and Monogramming foot (used for decorative stitches only).

Best for quilting: Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine

Brother

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: With built-in stitches for both utilitarian and decorative applications along with automatic features and an extra-wide table that accommodates quilts, the Brother XR3774 is a standout machine for quilters.

Specs

• Weight: 15.87 pounds
• Product dimensions: 15.3 x 5.8 x 12 inches 
• Number of built-in stitches: 37

Pros

• Wide work surface for bulky quilts and large sewing projects
• One-step buttonhole function
• Automatic needle threader
• Jam-resistant, drop-in bobbin

Cons

• Not computerized

Here’s a mechanical sewing machine with automated features and a large workspace for bulky projects. The large throat area and the extra-wide work table make the Brother XR3774 sewing and quilting machine a viable choice for quilters. For projects other than quilts, sewists may utilize the free arm. This feature facilitates sewing sleeves, cuffs, trousers, and skinny jeans. 

In addition to providing ample space for quilting, this machine offers ease-of-use through several automated functions. The 1-step buttonhole stitch automatically turns out perfectly sized buttonholes. An automatic needle threading system eliminates the frustrating task of threading the needle by hand. Simply press a lever on the side of the machine and the thread inserts precisely through the eye of the needle. Additionally, the top drop-in bobbin winds automatically, and it’s jam-resistant to ensure a smooth, continuous feed of thread. 

The XR3774 includes 37 built-in stitches that produce 74 stitch functions when applied to various sewing tasks. These include both utilitarian and decorative stitch options for multiple sewing and quilting purposes. The 37 pre-set stitches are prominently displayed on the front of the machine. Select a unique stitch pattern by simply turning a dial to the appropriate number. 

This machine includes an ample supply of accessories to facilitate varied sewing and quilting activities, including: Walking foot; Blind stitch foot; Zigzag foot; Zipper foot; Buttonhole foot; Button sewing foot; Spring-action quilting foot; Narrow hem foot; Wide table, detachable work surface; Hard cover to protect the machine when not in use; and an Instructional DVD. Here are more of our picks for the best sewing machines for quilting.

Best budget: Brother LX3817 Sewing Machine

Brother

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Why it made the cut: The Brother LX3817 is an affordable machine for the sewing hobbyist, offering ease of operation along with versatile features for basic sewing tasks as well as creative projects.

Specs

• Weight: 10.36 pounds
• Product dimensions: 17x 7 x 14 inches 
• Number of built-in stitches: 17

Pros

• 17 built-in stitches
• 4-step buttonhole function
• LED light for well-lit workspace
• Jam resistant bobbin

Cons 

• Not computerized
• Not as many built-in stitches as other machines

Available at a budget-friendly price, the LX3817 sewing machine provides an array of features to suit the needs of beginners, as well as experienced sewing hobbyists. It’s a full-size machine with 17 built-in stitch options. These include straight stitches, zigzag stitches, blind hem stitch, and couching stitches. The stitch choices are clearly marked on the selection dial, located on the front of the machine. Simply turn the dial to choose the desired stitch patterns for constructing garments, sewing crafts, and embellishing home decor creations. 

In addition to the 17 stitch options, the LX3817 provides a 4-step buttonhole function. With a quick turn of the dial, users may select the appropriate stitches to produce consistent, auto-size buttonholes, lending a professional look to finished projects. 

Several features make this machine a pleasure to use. The work area is well-lit with an LED light and the bobbin cover is transparent for visually monitoring the thread supply. The jam-resistant feature means that the thread on the drop-in bobbin does not become entangled. A convenient control dial lets users adjust the upper tension to avoid loose stitches or fabric puckering. Additionally, the machine’s design facilitates free-arm sewing for cuffs, sleeves, and trouser legs. 

This machine includes four interchangeable feet: Zigzag foot; Zipper foot; Buttonhole foot; and Button-sewing foot. The LX3817 includes all necessary parts to ensure success on multiple sewing and crafting projects, including: Darning plate; Bobbin cover; Bobbins; Set of 3 needles; and an Instructional DVD.

What to consider when buying the best Brother sewing machines

With a large number of options to choose from, it can be daunting for any consumer to select the most appropriate Brother sewing machine for their purposes. Here are several factors to consider before making a selection:

Computerized or mechanical?

Brother Industries manufactures both mechanical and computerized sewing machines. The mechanical models tend to be easier to operate and maintain. They’re durable and reliable, offering basic sewing features for beginners and hobbyists. As an added bonus, many of the mechanical models include automatic functions for ease of use. On the other hand, some sewists prefer the advanced, technological capabilities of computerized sewing machines. Especially for embroidery, crafting, and quilting projects, the computerized machines can’t be beat.

Built-in stitches

As a standard feature, all Brother sewing machines include varying arrays of built-in stitches. These range in style from straight, utilitarian designs for basting and sewing seams to complex, decorative stitches for the artistic embellishment of garments, quilts, home decor, and crafts. The built-in stitches offered by the Brother sewing machines reviewed here range from as few as 17 to as many as 240 options. Advanced, computerized machines include alphanumeric fonts among their built-in stitches to facilitate monogramming and customization of sewing projects. Additionally, the Brother sewing-and-embroidery machines include built-in embroidery designs with memory capability for importing or creating additional options. 

Automatic features

In addition to computerized and mechanical operating systems, shoppers might consider the availability of automatic functions on various Brother sewing machines. These features make the machines easier to use and increase the enjoyment of sewing as a pleasurable activity. Many of the Brother machines offer automatic needle threading. This function saves time, frustration, and eye strain as it eliminates the need to thread the needle by hand. Additionally, the inclusion of a 4-step or 1-step buttonhole function is a time-saver for sewists as it tailors a buttonhole of the precise size and shape for every button.

FAQs

Final thoughts on the best Brother sewing machines

• Best overall: Brother XM2701 Sewing Machine
• Best computerized: Brother XR9550 Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best for embroidery: Brother SE1900 Sewing and Embroidery Machine
• Best for beginners: Brother CP60X Computerized Sewing Machine
• Best for quilting: Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best budget: Brother LX3817 Sewing Machine

Many sewists appreciate the straightforward operating procedures and simplified maintenance of a non-computerized sewing machine such as the Brother XM2701 model. It’s a popular, mechanical machine that provides an ample selection of built-in stitches along with automatic needle threading and buttonhole making. Overall, the XM2701 offers value and versatility for multiple sewing and crafting activities.

Why trust us

Popular Science started writing about technology more than 150 years ago. There was no such thing as “gadget writing” when we published our first issue in 1872, but if there was, our mission to demystify the world of innovation for everyday readers means we would have been all over it. Here in the present, PopSci is fully committed to helping readers navigate the increasingly intimidating array of devices on the market right now.

Our writers and editors have combined decades of experience covering and reviewing consumer electronics. We each have our own obsessive specialties—from high-end audio to video games to cameras and beyond—but when we’re reviewing devices outside of our immediate wheelhouses, we do our best to seek out trustworthy voices and opinions to help guide people to the very best recommendations. We know we don’t know everything, but we’re excited to live through the analysis paralysis that internet shopping can spur so readers don’t have to.

The post The best Brother sewing machines of 2023 appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Best overall		SINGER | Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing & Quilting Machine		SEE IT	A computerized machine with convenient, automatic features.
Best budget		SINGER | MX60 Sewing Machine With Accessory Kit		SEE IT	A basic, mechanical machine that offers straightforward operating procedures.
Best for beginners		SINGER | Start 1304 Sewing Machine		SEE IT	An optimal choice for teens and adult beginners or sewing hobbyists who want a simple-to-use machine.

A good Singer sewing machine is the one that meets the needs of the individual. With many models to choose from, beginning hobbyists, as well as experienced sewing artists, can find appropriate models to facilitate their creative sewing efforts and produce pleasing results. 

Since 1851, when Isaac Singer patented the first practical sewing machine, the Singer company has been serving the public with reliable sewing machines manufactured from high-quality materials with precisely functioning component parts. Innovation and creative product development mark the company’s history. In the years since that first patent, the Singer company introduced the first electronic sewing machines, the first zigzag-stitch machines, and the first sewing-assistant app for mobile devices. 

Today, Singer offers a plethora of sewing machine models for a wide range of sewing purposes. These include quilt-making, garment construction, embroidery, crafts, and fabricating home decor items such as curtains and toss pillows. Shoppers have many options to choose from when selecting the best Singer sewing machine for each individual sewer’s needs.

• Best overall: SINGER | Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing & Quilting Machine 
• Best for beginners: SINGER | Start 1304 Sewing Machine
• Best heavy-duty: SINGER | 4423 Heavy Duty Sewing Machine
• Best portable: SINGER | Stitch Quick + Handheld Mending Machine
• Best for embroidery: SINGER | Legacy SE300 Sewing and Embroidery Machine
• Best for quilting: SINGER | Confidence 7469Q Computerized Quilting & Sewing Machine
• Best budget: SINGER | MX60 Sewing Machine With Accessory Kit

How we chose the best Singer sewing machines

To assemble our list of six recommended products, we took into account personal experience, peer suggestions, and user impressions to identify 13 top Singer sewing machines intended for home use. Although our selections are all available on Amazon, we did not limit our research to standard specs and basic product descriptions. Instead, we went to the source by consulting the Singer company website. There, we found more in-depth information to bring greater clarity to the selection process for our readers.

First, we distinguished between sewing machines with either computerized or mechanical operating systems and focused on products in both categories. Then, we looked for both basic and advanced features to suit the varying needs of shoppers. For example, we considered machines with a great quantity of pre-set stitch choices and programmable functions such as automatic needle threading, one-step buttonholes, and push-button stitch selection. Alternatively, we considered simple machines with basic, mechanical functions that meet the needs of many sewists and crafters, including beginners. Additionally, we considered machines in the mid-to-upper price range, as well as more budget-friendly choices. We did not consider industrial or professional machines, such as those that perform serging and overlocking functions. 

The best Singer sewing machines: Reviews & Recommendations

Best overall: SINGER | Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing & Quilting Machine 

SINGER

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: The Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 machine offers computerized operation with a vast array of optional functions to turn out creative, personalized sewing projects.

Specs

• Weight: 20 pounds
• Dimensions: 17.25 x 8.25 x 12 inches
• Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros

• 600 built-in stitch applications
• Automatic needle threader
• 5 alphanumeric fonts for monogramming and personalizing projects
• High speed, up to 850 stitches per minute

Cons

• Somewhat expensive
• Occasional issues with the automatic tension

Creative sewists find that this machine meets and exceeds their needs for versatility and ease of use. With the outstanding features on Singer’s Quantum Stylist 9960 machine, users are limited only by their own imaginations. The machine simplifies the processes needed to turn out beautiful quilts, crafts, home decor, and fashion projects. 

With its up-to-date, computerized operating system, the Quantum Stylist provides numerous options for sewing speed, precision, and multipurpose functioning. It offers 600 built-in stitches, ranging from basic to stretch and decorative options. The stitch choices include five alphanumeric fonts for monogramming or personalizing projects, as well as 13 alternatives for 1-step buttonholes. For ultimate ease, the machine includes a specialized underplate to successfully create perfect tailoring on every buttonhole.

The Quantum Stylist is capable of producing 850 stitches per minute, facilitating the quick completion of sewing projects. Additionally, the automatic needle threader speeds up the tedious task of threading the machine’s needle. Within seconds, users can have the entire machine automatically threaded, from the spool to the eye of the needle. This feature eliminates the frustration and eye strain associated with threading the needle by hand.

To facilitate a broad range of creative crafts and sewing projects, the Quantum Stylist 9960 includes a sizable array of accessories. These include the following attachable, working parts: All-purpose foot; Zipper foot; Buttonhole foot; Open toe foot; Overcasting foot; Darning and embroidery foot; Rolled hem foot; Cording foot; Straight stitch and quilting food; and Even-feed or walking foot.

Singer’s Quantum Stylist 9960 is suitable for creative types who design and fabricate their own fashions, as well as those who turn out heirloom-quality quilts and custom-craft handiwork. Additionally, it serves users who simply want to make clothing from commercial patterns or construct simple toss-pillows and curtains for their home decor. Overall, it’s a high-quality, multifunctional, and dependable machine.

Best for beginners: SINGER | Start 1304 Sewing Machine

SINGER

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: Older children and teens, as well as adult beginners, might use the Singer Start 1304 machine to embark on a journey of creative discovery and productivity through sewing.

Specs

• Weight: 9.8 pounds
• Product dimensions: 13 x 7 x 11.5 inches
• Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros 

• Lightweight and portable
• Full metal frame
• 6 built-in stitches for 57 stitch applications
• Includes a quick-start guide and an instruction manual

Cons

• Not for quilting
• Not for heavy-duty fabrics

The simplified operational procedures of this mechanical sewing machine make it ideal for casual hobbyists and beginning sewers. Older children and teens might use this machine to launch a lifelong fascination with the arts of sewing, quilting, and crafting. The Singer Start 1304 offers basic features with enough variable options to facilitate creativity and versatility in sewing projects. 

A manual dial on the front of the machine displays six clearly marked stitch choices. With a simple turn of the dial, users can employ these stitches with pre-set lengths and widths to accomplish up to 57 stitch applications. In addition to straight stitches for seams and hems, beginners can experiment with decorative scallops and zigzag stitches to embellish their work.

In addition to straight and decorative stitches, the Start 1304 boasts a simple, 4-step buttonhole system with clearly marked designations on the stitch selector dial. Even beginners can turn out tailored buttonholes every time. Although the machine is lightweight, compact, and portable, it features a full metal frame inside the plastic outer casing. This construction ensures durability for years of service as well as stability on a tabletop or work surface.

For versatile use on a variety of sewing projects, the Start 1304 includes numerous attachable working parts along with other helpful accessories. These include the following: All-purpose foot; Zipper foot; Buttonhole foot; Darning plate; Pack of needles; Bobbins; Needle plate; Screwdriver; Spool pin felts; Seam ripper and lint brush; Power line cord; Foot pedal control; Quick-start guide; and Instruction manual.

Best heavy-duty: SINGER | 4423 Heavy Duty Sewing Machine

SINGER

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: With a motor that is 60-percent more powerful than most, the Singer 4423 sewing machine handles thick seams and heavy-duty fabrics such as denim and canvas. 

Specs

• Weight: 14.5 pounds
• Product dimensions: 15.5 x 6.25 x 12 inches
• Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros

• Heavy-duty, interior, metal frame
• Extra-powerful motor
• High-speed performance
• Sews lightweight, sheer fabrics as well as heavy-duty materials

Cons

• Not the best choice for thick leather and thick canvas

Sew through denim, canvas, and heavy wool fabrics with the Singer 4423 machine. It boasts a motor that is 60-percent more powerful than standard sewing machine motors, making this model a workhorse for multiple sewing projects. Additionally, both the heavy-duty metal frame and the stainless-steel bedplate assure stability in operation along with long-wearing durability. Yet, this machine also handles lightweight, sheer materials. The smooth, stainless-steel bed plate along with the adjustable pressure for the presser-foot allow sheer fabrics to glide across the bed’s surface without snagging.

With its powerful motor, the Singer 4423 sewing machine boasts exceptional sewing speed. It’s easy to complete sewing projects in record time when the machine produces up to 1,100 precision stitches per minute. A clearly marked dial allows users to select from a variety of preset stitches to create up to 97 stitch applications. Select the 1-step buttonhole feature to save time and frustration by producing consistent buttonholes every time. Simply place the button in the buttonhole foot, and the machine automatically sews a precision buttonhole around it.

On the outer casing surface, clear markings indicate the procedure for threading the machine from the top-loading, drop-in bobbin to the needle. Then, the built-in, automatic needle threader takes over to thread the needle, thereby saving the user from annoyance and eye strain. 

The Singer 4423 heavy-duty machine includes a package of 4 interchangeable feet along with multiple accessories such as bobbins, needles, a quilting guide, and more. Additionally, a soft-sided dust cover is included to protect the machine when it’s not in use.

Best portable: SINGER | Stitch Quick + Handheld Mending Machine

SINGER

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: The Singer Stitch Quick + is a battery-operated, handheld sewing machine that delivers meticulous results on quick repairs and hems, eliminating the need to set up a full-size machine.

Specs 

• Weight: 1.45 pounds
• Dimensions: 9.7 x 4.1 x 6 inches
• Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros 

• Ultimate portability
• May be used in locations without electricity
• No need to set up a full-size machine
• More precise results than hand-sewing on hems and repairs 

Cons

• Not suitable for constructing garments and full-size projects
• Not for heavy-duty use

Save time and effort when you use this mini, handheld, cordless mending machine. With the Singer Stitch-Quick +, there’s no need to set up a full-size sewing machine when it’s time to make rapid repairs on garments and home decor items. Use it to quickly hem a pair of pants, a skirt, or household curtains. Grab this handheld tool when it’s time to mend a ripped seam in a hurry. Weighing only 1.45 pounds, the diminutive machine is easy to store and to transport. Take it along wherever it might be necessary to complete a minor sewing task. It requires only 4 AA batteries (may we suggest rechargeables).

On the other hand, the Stitch Quick + might be the ideal learning tool for an older child or teen to get started with sewing. A convenient switch on the front of the machine allows the user to choose either desktop or handheld operating modes. From there, the beginning sewer can learn many of the same procedures that pertain to standard sewing-machine operation. 

Singer designs this machine with attention to ergonomic considerations for handheld use. The handle grip is designed to offer the most advantageous balance and control. A safety lock prevents accidental operation. 

Use the Stitch Quick + for sewing paper as well as fabric. It’s useful for making crafts. The machine uses two threads to produce permanent, interlocking stitches. Replace the upper bobbin with the large spool pin to facilitate using standard-size thread spools. This diminutive machine contains many of the working parts of a standard sewing machine. These include the following: Built-in thread cutter; Drop-in bobbin compartment; Bobbin winder; Presser foot; Needle; Adjustable tension control dial; Handwheel; and Built-in storage compartment for notions.

Best for embroidery: SINGER | Legacy SE300 Sewing and Embroidery Machine

Singer

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Why it made the cut: The Singer Legacy SE300 comes with 200 embroidery designs and 250 stitches, making this an ideal choice for people who love to embroider and embellish their work.

Specs

• Weight: 20.5 pounds
• Dimensions: 17.25 x 8.25 x 12 inches  
• Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros

• 200 included embroidery designs
• Fast sewing speed of 800 stitches per minute
• Six fonts included

Cons

• Expensive
• Software only available for Windows

If embroidery is your thing, consider the Singer Legacy SE300. The machine comes with a large and small embroidery hoop, plus 7.25 inches of space to hold your project. The included 200 embroidery designs and six fonts will give you plenty of options. The SE300 provides basic stitches along with a wide range of decorative stitches and will automatically set the length, width, pressure, and more. It also has memory to save four individual stitching sequences. 

Capable of up to 800 stitches per minute, the SE300 can move through projects fast. To convert it from sewing to embroidery mode, just attach the embroidery foot. The LCD and touch screens help simplify the job and the machine has online training as part of the package. It also comes with software, but it’s only compatible with Windows. It’s also one of the pricier models on the list. 

Best for quilting: SINGER | Confidence 7469Q Computerized Quilting & Sewing Machine

SINGER

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Why it made the cut: The Singer Confidence 7469Q computerized sewing machine includes automatic functions and attachable working parts that facilitate many of the specialized sewing procedures for quilt-making.

Specs

• Weight: 16.25 pounds
• Dimensions: 17 x 8 x 12.5 inches  
• Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros 

• Includes 4 bonus feet designed for quilting
• 98 built-in stitches
• Automatic needle threader
• Drop-feed lever for free-motion sewing

Cons

• Not the best choice for beginners

Many quilters, crafters, and avid sewists appreciate the push-button operating ease of a computerized sewing machine. When it comes to quilting, the Singer Confidence 7469Q does not disappoint. Several features of this machine make quilting easier and more enjoyable, yielding creatively inspiring results.

These features include: Darning and embroidery foot for stippling; even-feed or walking foot for smooth fabric flow; open-toe foot for improved visibility; 0.25-inch foot for piecing together quilting blocks; large sewing surface to handle large quilts; extension table included to extend the sewing surface; programmable needle up/down feature for piecing together quilts; and drop-feed lever lowers the feed teeth for free-motion sewing.

Select from 98 built-in stitches for basic and decorative sewing and quilting projects. The most frequently used stitches are displayed on the front of the machine and available at the touch of a button. However, the lengths and widths of the preprogrammed stitches may be adjusted by the user. 

Several convenient features of this computerized machine are designed to save time and effort for sewists. The drop-and-sew bobbin system eliminates the need for raising the bobbin thread before sewing. Simply drop in the bobbin and start sewing immediately. For added convenience, the bobbin cover is transparent, facilitating continuous monitoring of the thread supply. Additionally, the machine offers an automatic needle threader to save the user time and frustration while working.

Sewing buttonholes is a breeze with the Confidence 7569Q one-step buttonhole function. Simply place the button in the buttonhole foot, and the machine sews a perfectly tailored buttonhole around it. 

Best budget: SINGER | MX60 Sewing Machine With Accessory Kit

SINGER

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: Available at an affordable price, the Singer MX60 sewing machine is a solid choice for a lightweight, portable tool that provides reliable service for basic sewing and craft projects.

Specs

• Weight: 12.17 pounds
• Product dimensions: 13 x 7 x 11.5 inches
• Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros

• Lightweight for portability and storage
• Full metal frame
• 57 stitch applications
• 4-step buttonhole function

Cons

• Not computerized
• Not for heavy-duty fabrics such as denim or canvas

Here’s a mechanical sewing machine that offers solid, basic features for a wide variety of sewing projects. Many users prefer mechanical machines like the Singer MX60 because the manual controls are simple to use and the machine is easy to maintain over time. Offering an array of useful features, this machine is suitable for beginners as well as experienced sewists.

With a choice of 57 stitch applications, the MX60 is capable of producing decorative sewing as well as basic seams. The stitch choices vary in both length and width. Various stitch options are suitable for piecing quilts, sewing garments, or creating crafts with decorative stitching. Moreover, the stitch selector dial is uncomplicated to use, eliminating mistakes and frustration. 

The MX60 does not boast an automatic needle threader, but it does provide easy-to-follow threading guides that are clearly marked on the machine’s outer surface. Additionally, the LED lighting saves users from straining their eyes while threading the machine. With a front-loading bobbin, the machine can be threaded and ready for use in only a few seconds. A simple lever switches from forward to reverse sewing for finishing off seams, and the tension adjustment allows users to fine-tune the machine for a variety of fabric types.

Weighing in at only 12.7 pounds and exhibiting a compact size, the Singer MX60 is ideal for users who want a portable machine. It’s easy to lift, carry, and store, making it a practical choice for those who work in small spaces. Despite its small size and minimal weight, the MX60 boasts a full metal frame inside the plastic outer shell. This substantial frame provides stability that allows the machine to sew smoothly, without skipping.

What to consider when buying the best Singer sewing machines

Before making an investment in a Singer sewing machine, shoppers might consider their individual sewing aspirations. For example, a beginner who wants to create simple crafts and home decor items will have needs that are different from those of an experienced quilter or a sewist who aspires to develop their personal fashion line. Based on the extent and complexity of their anticipated sewing projects, shoppers might consider several factors in the selection process. 

Computerized or mechanical

Computerized sewing machines offer convenience to sewers via their programmable features and push-button operating ease. However, computerized machines are more expensive than mechanical models. Avid sewing artists and quilters might be willing to pay the additional cost for the convenient, computerized functions and the precision results that they facilitate. On the other hand, beginners and hobbyists might prefer the simplicity of mechanical sewing machines. The mechanical models tend to offer more straightforward operating procedures along with easier maintenance.

Built-in stitches and stitch applications

Both computerized and mechanical sewing machines include varying quantities of built-in or pre-set stitches. These fall into three categories, including straight stitches for seams, decorative stitches for embellishments, and buttonhole stitches. With a number of built-in stitches, machines offer a broad range of stitch applications. These applications involve various sewing techniques that can be accomplished with built-in stitch selections. For example, a machine with 98 built-in stitches might facilitate up to 600 stitch applications. Alternatively, a machine with 6 built-in stitches may facilitate 57 stitch applications. 

Size, weight, and portability

Tabletop sewing machines vary in size from around 13 inches to 17 inches in length and 11 inches to 12 inches in height. Most are around 7 inches to 8.5 inches in width. Similarly, they vary in weight from approximately 10 pounds to 20 pounds. All of the tabletop machines included in this round-up may be considered portable. However, the smaller and lighter weight machines are easier to set up, move, and store. For sewers who live in small spaces, a small and lightweight machine might be the most convenient for moving from place to place in the home as well as for storage. 

FAQs

Final thoughts on the best Singer sewing machines

• Best overall: SINGER | Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing & Quilting Machine 
• Best for beginners: SINGER | Start 1304 Sewing Machine
• Best heavy-duty: SINGER | 4423 Heavy Duty Sewing Machine
• Best portable: SINGER | Stitch Quick + Handheld Mending Machine
• Best for embroidery: SINGER | Legacy SE300 Sewing and Embroidery Machine
• Best for quilting: SINGER | Confidence 7469Q Computerized Quilting & Sewing Machine
• Best budget: SINGER | MX60 Sewing Machine With Accessory Kit

The Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 is our choice for the best Singer sewing machine. It’s a computerized sewing machine that offers advanced features to make sewing easier. It’s suitable for serious and experienced quilters, crafters, and sewists, but the clearly marked design facilitates use by beginners, as well. Multiple automatic functions take the guesswork out of sewing procedures and produce consistently excellent results in finished sewing projects. 

Why trust us

Popular Science started writing about technology more than 150 years ago. There was no such thing as “gadget writing” when we published our first issue in 1872, but if there was, our mission to demystify the world of innovation for everyday readers means we would have been all over it. Here in the present, PopSci is fully committed to helping readers navigate the increasingly intimidating array of devices on the market right now.

Our writers and editors have combined decades of experience covering and reviewing consumer electronics. We each have our own obsessive specialties—from high-end audio to video games to cameras and beyond—but when we’re reviewing devices outside of our immediate wheelhouses, we do our best to seek out trustworthy voices and opinions to help guide people to the very best recommendations. We know we don’t know everything, but we’re excited to live through the analysis paralysis that internet shopping can spur so readers don’t have to.

The post The best Singer sewing machines of 2023 appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Banish the bloatware

Your shiny new laptop might already be weighed down by unnecessary applications. These are called bloatware, and to expand on the brief definition we offered above, they’re basically the laptop manufacturer’s attempts to push its own services. Some can be useful, but you don’t have to keep them around if you don’t want to.

You could open up the Applications folder in Finder, and then drag the app icon down to Trash to remove it from your system. Alternatively, open Launchpad from the Dock or the Applications folder, click and hold on an app icon until it starts shaking, then tap the little X icon that appears on it.

Be careful with installers

Plenty of programs will attempt to install extra software while you’re working your way through the initial setup process. Not only will this add extra clutter to your system, it can also be risky from a security perspective—you’re granting access to apps you haven’t fully vetted.

The only way to really guard against this is to pay attention as you install new software, and don’t zone out while clicking the “next” buttons until you’ve reached the end. Watch out for boxes that are checked by default and effectively give permission for the program to install extra software.

[Related: Questions to ask when you’re trying to decide on a new app or service]

You should also be careful about the software developers you trust to install applications on your laptop. There are many honest and reputable smaller developers out there, but always do diligent research before downloading and installing something new: check the history of the developer, and read reviews of the app from existing users.

To be on the safe side, limit yourself to installing apps from the official Microsoft and Apple stores whenever possible—these programs have been vetted, and shouldn’t attempt to install anything extra. On Windows, choose Microsoft Store from the Start menu; on macOS, click the App Store icon in the Dock.

Lock down your browser

Your browser is your laptop’s window to the web, so you’ll want to make sure it’s shored up against apps and extensions that surreptitiously install themselves. Keeping your browser updated is the first step, but thankfully modern browsers take care of that automatically (so long as you close all your tabs and restart the browser every once in a while).

Avoid agreeing to install any add-ons or plug-ins you don’t immediately recognize as programs you opted to download. If you’re in any doubt, navigate away from the page you’re on or close the tab.

Watch out for extra toolbars appearing in your browser, or browser settings (like the default search engine) changing without warning—you can always head to the extensions settings page in your browser to remove add-ons you’re not sure about.

When you install a new extension in your browser, you’ll get a pop-up explaining the permissions it has—the data it can see, and the changes it can make to your system. Don’t install any extras on top of your browser without double-checking the developers behind them and reading reviews left by current users.

Practice good security

To maximize your protection against applications that would install themselves without your permission, we recommend installing an antivirus package whether you’re on Windows or macOS—you can find a variety of independent reports online to point you towards the best choices. These packages typically include dedicated tools that watch for unexpected software installations.

If you’re on Windows, you can make use of the built-in Windows Defender software that comes with the operating system and specifically checks for the installation of authorized apps. On Windows 11, open Settings, click Privacy & security, then Windows Security, Open Windows Security, and App & browser control to make sure the feature is enabled. If you’re still using Windows 10, open Settings, then click Update & Security, Windows Security, and App & browser control.

[Related: How to make sure no one is spying on your computer]

The post Make sure your computer isn’t downloading stuff you don’t want appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

When it comes to lock screen notifications, iPhone users generally belong in one of three camps: those who must see every alert at all times, those who would rather die than glimpse a single notification, and those who like to adjust the iOS settings to find a happy medium.

Coincidentally or not, Apple also offers three different ways to display notifications on an iPhone, and you may find you prefer one over your current settings. The feature was introduced with iOS 16, the same update that moved alerts to the bottom of the display due to increased lock screen customization options that prioritize space for widgets.

How to adjust the way notifications look on your lock screen

To set your preferred notification format, open your phone’s Settings app and tap Notifications. At the top of this page, you’ll see the Display As heading, with three images that depict where your alerts will appear if you pick Count, Stack, or List.

[Related: Hidden iPhone tricks that will change the way you use iOS]

Stack

Stack appears to be the default if you’ve never touched these settings, and it simply piles all your notifications on top of each other near the bottom of your screen. They don’t shrink into a single line of text, but they’re densely packed, and you can tap them or swipe up to see more details.

List

Definitely the most chaotic choice, the List display will display your notifications as individual alert bubbles, most recent at the top. Get enough of them, and they’ll start to overlap a bit, but this option will take up the most space on your screen.

The post 3 ways to change how iPhone notifications appear appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Best overall		Mount-It! (MI-1772) Dual Monitor Arm		SEE IT	Full articulation and ease of use are what make this dual monitor arm stand out—especially if you don’t have a lot of desk space.
Best wall-mounted		Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount		SEE IT	The Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount conveys is a more affordable choice if you’re okay installing a more permanent dual monitor setup.
Best budget		VIVO Dual Monitor Desk Mount		SEE IT	VIVO’s Dual Monitor Desk Mount has more features than its modest price suggests.

With so many people working from home, many of us are furnishing our offices on our own dime or with a small work budget rather than requesting equipment at the office—and that can mean some real makeshift monitor stands, etc. Ergonomics, however, is just as important at home as in a cubicle. Using a dual-monitor stand, whether it’s something you put on your desk, a mounted monitor arm, or a bracket you mount on your wall, gives you the freedom to place your screens as you please for both maximum comfort and efficiency. There are many ways to optimize your two-monitor setup: The best dual-monitor stands ensure maximum flexibility, regardless of your approach.

• Best overall: Mount-It! (MI-1772) Dual Monitor Arm
• Best desk-mounted: Ergotron LX Dual Monitor Arm
• Best wall-mounted: Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount
• Best freestanding: ErGear Dual Monitor Stand
• Best vertical: Hemudu HT05B-002 Dual Monitor Stand
• Best premium: Ergotron HX Desk Dual Monitor Arm
• Best budget: VIVO Dual Monitor Desk Mount

How we chose the best dual-monitor stands

To make our selections, I paired my own personal testing and experience with professional reviews and consumer feedback on Amazon. Our favorite monitor arms and monitor stands for dual-display setups provide a wide range of use cases, installation types, and prices. We also kept brand credibility in mind: Among monitor arm manufacturers, there are a handful of respected companies, and a very large number of lesser-known brands that often offer cheap prices but without the reputation or warranty to back them up.

Best dual-monitor stands: Reviews & Recommendations

So you have two monitors, and you want to put them up on a single adjustable stand. Now that you know the basics of what to look for, we have a few recommendations for the best dual-monitor stands, including desk-mounted, wall-mounted, and freestanding options. No matter your home office or PC gaming setup, there should be a decent option for you among these picks.

Best overall: Mount-It! (MI-1772) Dual Monitor Arm

Mount-It!

SEE IT

Buy it used or refurbished: eBay

Why it made the cut: Mount-It’s monitor arm makes it very easy to maneuver two big displays without any friction.

Specs

• Mount type: Desk
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm
• Adjustment mechanism: Gas-spring mount/free moving
• Weight range: 20lb per arm
• Display size range: 19-32 inches
• Available colors: Black, Silver

Pros

• Requires very little desk space
• Offers fine-grain control over the monitors
• Easy-to-move displays

Cons

• Price

We’ve had great success in our tests of Mount-It!’s single monitor arms, and feel very comfortable recommending this dual-display version to anyone who needs a lot of extra digital real estate to work. The arms can hold large, heavy displays, and each one can be twisted, tilted, and turned in several directions. This level of control can accommodate many work styles: video editors who want to see how their color grading tweaks are affecting the look of footage in real time, office workers who want to dedicate a vertically oriented monitor to their e-mail or messaging client, or gamers who want to monitor their Twitch chat.

Two features have impressed us with Mount-It!’s other monitor stands that apply to this one: The ease at which they allow you to control your monitor and how well their clamping mechanism keeps it firmly attached to your desk. We’ve had no issues moving a 27-inch monitor with one hand, and the ability to move your displays closer and further from your face comes in handy more frequently than you’d expect. If you don’t have a lot of physical desk space, this monitor’s clamp will be incredibly helpful. A monitor stand’s feet can take up a lot more room than you think, and having more area back for your go-to tech accessories is very useful.

Best desk-mounted: Ergotron LX Dual Monitor Arm

Ergotron

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: The Ergotron LX Dual Monitor Arm is a slick desk mount that balances great build quality and the price that comes with it.

Specs

• Mount type: Desk
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm
• Adjustment mechanism: Gas-spring mount/free moving
• Weight range: 7-20 lbs
• Display size range: 27 inches
• Available colors: Black/white/silver

Pros

• Superior build quality
• Plenty of ergonomic options
• Easy to install
• Lots of color options

Cons

• Expensive

When you think of monitor mounts, free-moving gas-spring arms typically come to mind. They offer smooth action that allows you to move your screens with precision easily. Though it costs more than many other brands, Ergotron’s LX Dual Monitor Arm dual-monitor arm has a higher quality that justifies the price. Plus, it comes with a 10-year warranty, so you know the company stands behind its product. The Ergotron LX Dual Monitor Arm doesn’t do anything flashy. It just does the basics very well.

Best wall-mounted: Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount

MOUNTUP

SEE IT

Buy it used or refurbished: eBay

Why it made the cut: The Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount looks sharp, and strikes a balance between price and features.

Specs

• Mount type: Wall mount
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm
• Adjustment mechanism: Gas-spring arms/free moving
• Weight range: 3.3 – 17.6 lbs
• Display size range: Up to 32-inch
• Available colors: Chrome/Black

Pros

• Great price
• Very adjustable
• Detachable VESA plates

Cons

• Requires tools to install
• Requires brick, concrete, or wood anchor

If you’re ready to commit to a specific home, spot, and desk setup, you can save a lot of money on a really great dual-monitor arm with the Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount. It looks sharp, carries a lot of weight, and costs less than half as much as our desk-mounted pick. That said, this is a heavy dual-monitor arm. Not only do you need to attach it to the wall, the manufacturer specifically calls for you to anchor it on a brick, concrete, or wooden stud. Drywall alone may not hold it up. That’s a huge limitation, but if you have the right setup, this is arguably the most stable way to mount your monitors.

Best freestanding: ErGear Dual Monitor Stand

ErGear

SEE IT

Buy it used or refurbished: eBay

Why it made the cut: If you don’t want to mount your monitors on arms, ErGear makes a more conventional dual-monitor stand that’s sturdy and offers strong adjustability.

Specs

• Mount type: Desktop stand
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm
• Adjustment mechanism: Pole-adjusted height/static arm
• Weight range: Up to 26.4 lbs
• Display size range: 17-32 inches
• Available colors: Black

Pros

• Inexpensive
• Works on glass and executive-style desks
• Zero “install”
• High weight limit

Cons

• Fewer placement/ergonomic options
• Still takes up space on your desk

We often recommend desk-clamping or wall-mounted monitor arms for their great adjustability and their ability to free up desk space. However, not all of us can use those options: We can’t all drill holes in our walls, and some desks aren’t clamp-friendly. Whether your options are limited, or you simply don’t want to install anything, a desktop or “freestanding” monitor stand is the way to go.

ErGear’s Dual Monitor Stand features a static base column with adjustable spokes for both monitors. It is as adjustable as a dual-monitor arm, but you can still adjust height, tilt, swivel, and rotation to get very good, ergonomically mind positioning. It’s all held down by a large, sturdy black glass base that has enough room under it to route some cables. While it doesn’t free up as much space as a desk-mounted stand, putting both of your monitors on a single stand still opens up your workstation quite a bit.

Best vertical: Hemudu HT05B-002 Dual Monitor Stand

Hemudu

SEE IT

Buy it used or refurbished: eBay

Why it made the cut: The Hemudu HT05B-002 allows you to set up a vertical stacking configuration without sacrificing stability.

Specs

• Mount type: Desktop stand
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: 50mm x 50mm, 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm
• Adjustment mechanism: Static mount
• Weight range: 44 lbs per arm
• Display size range: 13-34 inches
• Available colors: Black

Pros

• Can handle very large and heavy displays
• Has plenty of ergonomic options
• Easy to move

Cons

• Fewer adjustment options compared to free-moving arms
• Still takes up desk space

Ergonomics are, ultimately, the core advantage of using a dual-monitor arm. Putting your displays on a single, adjustable mount allows you to position your displays to reduce the number of neck movements you have to do in your daily work. No matter what you do, though, putting two widescreen displays right next to each other ensures that you will need to turn your head to focus on one screen or the other. Suppose you are the kind of person who uses one display most of the time and only occasionally glances at screen number two. In that case, a stacking monitor stand, which mounts the two monitors in a single column, might be useful. Craning your neck to look up isn’t great, ergonomically speaking, but if you only look at that second monitor every once in a while, it may lead to a net reduction in strain.

If you want to set up a vertical stack, we recommend a desktop mount like the Hemudu HT05B-002, rather than a desk-mounted one. With a vertical setup, you’re putting a lot more stress on the stand arm, and a flat stand handles that extra weight better. The HT05B-002 can handle two 34-inch, 44-lb. screens. It features removable VESA plates for easy installation as well. A wide base limits your desk real estate gains, but you can rest easy knowing that the stand will support your monitors’ weight(s). It’s a small consolation, but the feet under the base raise up enough to fit some of your other cabling underneath.

Best premium: Ergotron HX Desk Dual Monitor Arm

Ergotron

SEE IT

Buy it used or refurbished: eBay

Why it made the cut: If you’re willing to pay a premium for a reliable brand, the Ergotron HX is as sturdy as they come.

Specs

• Mount type: Desk-mounted
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm (More available with optional bracket adapter kit)
• Adjustment mechanism: Gas-spring arms/free moving
• Weight range: 35 lbs per arm
• Display size range: Up to 32-inch
• Available colors: White, Silver, Black

Pros

• Killer looks
• 15-year warranty
• A trusted name in ergonomics

Cons

• Very expensive

It’s easy to find a monitor arm for under $100, but they’re almost always a gamble. You’re buying a relatively untested design from a brand with little to no reputation, which can be a risky proposition with a dual-monitor stand that holds and protects two pieces of equipment that cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars. If you have a pair of very expensive displays, you may want to consider spending a similarly luxurious amount on your stand. 

Ergotron is one of the oldest and most reliable names in the monitor stand game, and its HX dual-monitor arm is a deluxe desk-mounted stand. It has some of the flourishes from our other top picks, including a 15-year warranty and detachable VESA mounts for easy mounting. It also features a unique handlebar beneath the screens that allows you to adjust both displays at once. Those things are all just gravy, though. In this case, you’re spending a lot of extra money on the peace of mind that comes with buying a trusted luxury brand.

Best budget: VIVO Dual Monitor Desk Mount

VIVO

SEE IT

Buy it used or refurbished: eBay

Why it made the cut: VIVO managed to make its dual-monitor stand comparable to more expensive models without many compromises.

Specs

• Mount type: Desk
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: Gas-spring arms/free moving
• Adjustment mechanism: 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm
• Weight range: up to 22lb per arm
• Display size range: 13-30 inches
• Available colors: Black, White

Pros

• Gives you a fair amount of control over your monitors
• Won’t take up a lot of room on your desk
• Price

Cons

• No automatic height adjustment

If you’ve invested most of your home office improvement budget on your new displays, it makes sense to save a little bit on a dual-monitor stand. This model from VIVO has most of the features found in our best overall pick, but at a quarter of the price. Each monitor can be tilted and twisted individually, but you can only adjust their height by loosening and tightening a screw on the back. Both monitors have to be set at the same height, which may matter depending on the type of work you do. This stand works with monitors up to 30-inches wide, but VIVO offers a model that can handle displays up to 32 inches if necessary.

We like monitor arms that can be clamped onto a desk rather than sit on top of it because of the space savings, which is why VIVO’s is especially appealing to us. We’re also impressed that it can control monitors up to 22 pounds, which means the arms on this stand are stronger than the ones on our best overall pick. If the lack of height adjustability isn’t a dealbreaker, there’s no reason to spend more money on a dual-monitor stand.

Things to consider before buying one of the best dual-monitor stands

Even if you know exactly which dual-monitor stand or arm to buy, it helps to know a bit about the basic mechanics involved. Different stands require varying amounts of installation at setup, and not every monitor can be mounted on a third-party stand. Understanding these basics will help you pick the right stand for your displays, and ensure you’re ready to install your stand (or call someone who can.)

Why should I use a dual-monitor stand?

There are many reasons to mount your monitors, ranging from purely cosmetic to enabling better ergonomics. The stands with PC monitors vary widely in construction quality, appearance, and features. Some stands take up tons of desk space without offering any additional utility. Others may not allow you to adjust them properly, forcing you to twist or crane your neck to look at them, which could lead to long-term strain. And some of them may just look ugly. When you buy a monitor for its great specs, which you should, it potentially opens the door for you to end up with a huge, ugly stand that gives you a sore neck. Luckily, most monitors allow you to remove the actual display from its stand and mount them on a third-party stand. 

A monitor stand, whether it sits on your desk, clamps on at edge of it, or bolts onto the wall behind it, can solve all of these issues at once, giving you the ability to place your monitor exactly where you want it, reclaiming your desk space for more useful tools, and swapping out what may be garish design for something more subtle and clean.

Stand, clamp, or wall mount?

When moving to a dual-monitor stand, you must choose between a conventional desktop form factor, a clamping desk-mounted design, or a wall-mounted one. Often, picking one versus another comes down to what kind of desk you have, how important it is to reclaim desk space, and the likelihood that you’ll need to move your setup.

If you have a flat desk with an edge or lip, we like clamping monitor stands that clamp to the rear edge of your desk. They’re sturdy, highly adjustable, and easy to install or remove without damaging the desk. (Some offer an option to drill a hole into your desk as an anchor, but it isn’t necessarily mandatory.)

That said, if you have a glass desk, an executive-style desk, or something with lots of cable guides built into the back, a clamp might not be a good fit. In most cases, there’s just no spot to install the clamp. With glass, it could literally shatter the desk. In those cases, a desktop stand makes more sense. Though you won’t get as much space back, a desktop with a dual-monitor stand still consolidates two screens onto a single stand, reclaiming some desk real estate. Also, desktop stands are very sturdy, so it makes sense to use them for larger, heavier screens.

Finally, there’s the wall mount. Whether you use a set of monitor arms or a bracket similar to what you’d use when mounting a TV, the wall mount is an extremely sturdy choice but requires serious installation. To install it, you’ll need to find a stud, drill some holes, and bolt your monitor stand to your wall. Once you install it, your monitor stand isn’t going anywhere, which means your desk setup isn’t going anywhere, either. That lack of flexibility makes it a very niche choice. You don’t want to have to spackle and repaint your walls every time you think your desk would look better over by the window.

Before you buy: Make sure all your monitors have VESA mounts

If you peek around the back of most computer monitors, you’ll notice that the stand for your display probably attaches via four screws in a square configuration. This is a standard configuration maintained by the Video Electronics Standards Association, commonly known as VESA, meant to make stands as close to universal as possible so users can buy new stands easily. 

VESA mounts can come in many sizes, but most PC monitors fall into one of two options, 75mm x 75mm or 100mm x 100 mm. That makes everyone’s life easier: All of our picks support both sizes, as should most third-party monitor stands of any shape and size. That said, you should still double-check your monitors’ specs to see VESA mount sizes you’ll need before buying a dual-monitor stand, if only to make sure that your monitor can be mounted at all. Some very cheap monitors (and a few very expensive ones) build their monitors permanently attached to their stands.

Double-check the weight of both of your displays

Monitors are heavy and expensive. Before mounting them, you should ensure your stand can support their weight. Make sure that your monitors are within the stands’ specified weight limit–don’t risk going above or below whatever limits the manufacturer sets. Most monitor manufacturers include the weight of the displays both with and without stands on their product pages. You have a little wiggle room on the size of the monitor, but consider the weight tolerances to be inviolable laws of nature in this case, or risk breaking hundreds or even thousands of dollars worth of monitors.

FAQs

Final thoughts on the best dual-monitor stands

• Best overall: Mount-It! (MI-1772) Dual Monitor Arm
• Best desk-mounted: Ergotron LX Dual Monitor Arm
• Best wall-mounted: Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount
• Best freestanding: ErGear Dual Monitor Stand
• Best vertical: Hemudu HT05B-002 Dual Monitor Stand
• Best premium: Ergotron HX Desk Dual Monitor Arm
• Best budget: VIVO Dual Monitor Desk Mount

With so many options for mounting your monitors and such a wide range of prices, the best dual-monitor stands are a very affordable and useful upgrade for anyone using two monitors. Whether you’re rocking one display in landscape mode and one in portrait mode, pairing an ultrawide monitor with a standard one, mounting to a desk or a wall, there are dynamic stands for every type of home setup.

Why trust us

Popular Science started writing about technology more than 150 years ago. There was no such thing as “gadget writing” when we published our first issue in 1872, but if there was, our mission to demystify the world of innovation for everyday readers means we would have been all over it. Here in the present, PopSci is fully committed to helping readers navigate the increasingly intimidating array of devices on the market right now.

Our writers and editors have combined decades of experience covering and reviewing consumer electronics. We each have our own obsessive specialties—from high-end audio to video games to cameras and beyond—but when we’re reviewing devices outside of our immediate wheelhouses, we do our best to seek out trustworthy voices and opinions to help guide people to the very best recommendations. We know we don’t know everything, but we’re excited to live through the analysis paralysis that internet shopping can spur so readers don’t have to.

The post The best dual-monitor stands of 2023 appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

There’s a wealth of software available for Windows, macOS, Android, and iOS—but not all of it has been developed with the best intentions. There are apps out there that have been built to steal your data, corrupt your files, spy on your digital activities, and surreptitiously squeeze money out of you.

The good news is that a few smart questions can steer you away from the shady stuff and toward apps you can trust and rely on. If you’re not sure about a particular piece of software for your phone or computer, running through this simple checklist should help you spot the biggest red flags.

Old software that hasn’t been updated in the last year or so isn’t necessarily bad, but be wary of it: It’s less likely to work with the latest version of whatever operating system you’re on, and it’s more likely to have security vulnerabilities that can be exploited by bad actors (because it’s hasn’t been patched against the latest threats).

Don’t automatically trust brand new software either. An app may have been rushed out to cash in on a trend (whether it’s Wordle clones or ChatGPT extensions), and these types of apps are built to make money rather than offer a good user experience or respect your privacy. It may be worth just waiting until you’ve seen some reviews of the app in question.

2. What are other people saying?

That brings us neatly to user reviews, which can be a handy way of gauging an app’s quality. It’s easy to use the dedicated reviews sections in official app stores to see what other people think of the software, but in other scenarios (like downloading a Windows program from the web) you can do a quick web search for the name of the app.

Be sure to check several reviews rather than just relying on one or two, and look for running themes over isolated incidents (the customer isn’t necessarily always right). See what users are saying about bugs and crashes, for example, and how any requests for support have been handled.

[Related: What to do when your apps keep crashing]

Reviews can be faked of course, even in large numbers. Don’t be too trusting of very short and very positive reviews, or reviews left by people with usernames that are generic or look like they might have been created by a bot. Place most faith in longer, more detailed reviews that sound like they’ve been written by someone who’s actually used the software in question.

If you’re on Android or iOS, you can tap the developer name on an app listing to see other apps from the same developer. If they’ve made several apps that all have high ratings, that’s positive. Developer responses to user reviews are a good sign as well, showing that whoever is behind the software is invested in it.

Checking up on the developer of an app that you’re downloading from the wilds of the web isn’t quite as straightforward, but a quick web search for their name should give you some pointers. Developers without any online or social media presence, for instance, should be treated with caution.

4. How much does it cost?

Pay particular attention to how much an app costs, both in terms of up-front fees and ongoing payments: These details are listed on app pages on Android and iOS, and should be fairly straightforward to find on other platforms too. You don’t want an app that’s going to extort money out of you, but you also need to figure out how the costs of development are being supported.

Like the other questions here, there are no hard and fast rules, but if an app is completely free it’s most likely supported through data collection and advertising—this is true from the biggest names in tech, like Facebook and Google, to the smallest independent developers. Freemium models are common too, where some features might be locked behind a paywall.

[Related on PopSci+: You have the power to protect your data. Own it.]

If you get as far as installing an app, go through the opening splash screens very carefully, and pay attention to the terms and conditions. Watch out for any free trials you might be signing up for,that could be charging your credit card unexpectedly in a month’s time (even if you’ve uninstalled the app).

Ideally, apps should explain to you why they need the permissions they do. Access to your contacts, for example, can be used to easily share files with friends and family, rather than to pull any personal data from them. It’s not an exact science, but it’s another way of assessing whether or not you want to install a particular program.

You can change app permissions after they’ve been installed, too, and you should check in on these every once in a while because settings may change as developers update their app. We’ve written guides to the process for Windows and macOS, and for Android and iOS. If you do think that a piece of software is reaching further than it should do in terms of permissions, you can block off its access to them rather than removing it.

The post Stop and ask these 5 security questions before installing any app appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Moriel Schottlender is a software engineer at Wikimedia Foundation. This article was originally posted on her Smarter Than That blog in 2008 and has been lightly edited for Popular Science.

Humanity has known the world is not flat for a few millennia, and I’ve been meaning to show more methods on how to prove the Earth is round. I’ve had a few ideas on how to do that, but got an interesting incentive when Phil Plait, The Bad Astronomer, wrote about the the Flat Earth Society. He claims it’s ridiculous to even bother rebutting the Flat Earth Society—and I tend to agree. But the history of our species’ intellectual pursuit is important and interesting. You don’t need to denounce all science and knowledge and believe in a conspiracy theory to enjoy some historical factoids about humanity’s quest for space.

On we go, to the top 10 ways to unequivocally, absolutely, positively prove the Earth isn’t flat.

1. Check the shadows on the moon

Now that humanity knows quite positively that the moon is not a piece of cheese or a playful god, the phenomena that accompany it (from its monthly cycles to lunar eclipses) are well-explained. It was quite a mystery to the ancient Greeks, though, and in their quest for knowledge, they came up with a few insightful observations that helped humanity figure out the shape of our planet.

Aristotle (who made quite a lot of observations about the spherical nature of the Earth) noticed that during lunar eclipses (when the Earth’s orbit places it directly between the sun and the moon, creating a shadow in the process), the silhouette on the satellite’s surface is round. This shadow is the planet’s, and it’s a great piece of round-Earth evidence.

Since the earth is rotating (see the “Foucault Pendulum” experiment for a definite proof, if you are doubtful), the consistent oval-shadow it produces in each and every lunar eclipse proves that the earth is not only round but spherical—absolutely, utterly, beyond a shadow of a doubt not flat.

2. Follow ships on the horizon

If you’ve been next to a port lately, or just strolled down a beach and stared off vacantly into the horizon, you might have noticed a very interesting phenomenon: Approaching ships do not just “appear” out of the horizon like they should have if the world was flat, but rather seem to emerge from beneath the sea.

But, you say, ships do not submerge and rise up again as they approach our view (except in Pirates of the Caribbean, but we are hereby assuming that was a fictitious movie series). The reason ships appear as if they “emerge from the waves” is because the world is not flat: It’s round.

[Related: How old is Earth? It’s a surprisingly tough question to answer.]

Imagine an ant walking along the surface of an orange, into your field of view. If you look at the orange “head on”, you will see the ant’s body slowly rising up from the “horizon” because of the curvature of the orange. If you would do that experiment with the ant approaching along a long road rather than a round object, the effect would change: The ant would slowly “materialize” into view (depending on how sharp your vision is).

3. Look up at the stars

This observation was originally made by Aristotle (384-322 BCE), who declared the Earth was round judging from the different constellations one sees while moving away from the equator.

After returning from a trip to Egypt, Aristotle noted, “There are stars seen in Egypt and … Cyprus which are not seen in the northerly regions.” This phenomenon can only be explained if humans were viewing the stars from a round surface, Aristotle continued, claiming that the sphere of the Earth is “of no great size, for otherwise the effect of so slight a change of place would not be quickly apparent.”

The farther you go from the equator, the farther the “known” constellations go towards the horizon, to be replaced by different stars. This would not have happened if the world was flat:

4. Conduct a stick test

If you stick a stick in the (sticky) ground, it will produce a shadow. The shadow moves as time passes (which is the principle for ancient Shadow Clocks). If the world had been flat, then two sticks in different locations would produce the same shadow.

But they don’t. This, again, is because the Earth is round, and not flat.

Eratosthenes (276-194 BCE) used this principle to calculate the circumference of the Earth quite accurately. To see this demonstrated, refer to my experiment video about Eratosthenes and the circumference of the Earth.

5. Climb a hill or mountain

Standing on a flat plateau, you look ahead toward the horizon. You strain your eyes, then take out your favorite binoculars and stare through them, as far as your eyes (with the help of the binocular lenses) can see.

Next, climb up the closest tree—the higher the better, just be careful not to drop those binoculars and break their lenses. Then look again, strain your eyes, and stare through the binoculars out to the horizon.

[Related on PopSci+: How to not fear heights]

The higher up you climb, the farther you will see. Usually, we tend to relate this to Earthly obstacles—like the fact we have houses or other trees obstructing our vision on the ground, and climbing upwards we have a clear view—but that’s not the true reason. Even if you stood on a completely clear plateau with no obstacles between you and the horizon, you would see much farther from the greater height than you would on the ground.

This phenomenon is caused by the curvature of the Earth as well, and would not happen if the Earth was flat:

6. Ride a plane

If you’ve ever taken a trip out of the country, specifically long-distance trips, you could notice two interesting facts about planes and the Earth:

• Planes can travel in a relatively straight line for a very long time and not fall off any edges. They can also circle the Earth without stopping.
• If you look out the window on a trans-Atlantic flight, you can, most of the times, see the curvature of the Earth on the horizon. The best view of the curvature used to be on the Concorde, but that plane’s long gone. I can’t wait to see the pictures from the new plane by Virgin Galactic—the horizon should look absolutely curved, as it actually is from a distance.

7. Scope out other planets

The Earth is different from other planets, that much is true. After all, we have life, and we haven’t found any other planets with life (yet). However, there are certain characteristics all planets have, and it will be quite logical to assume that if all planets behave a certain way, or show certain characteristics—specifically if those planets are in different places or were created under different circumstances—our planet is the same.

In other words: If so many planets that were created in different locations and under different circumstances show the same property, it’s likely that our own planet has the same property as well. All of our observations show that other planets are spherical (and since we know how they’re created, it’s also obvious why they take this shape). Unless we have a very good reason to think otherwise (which we don’t), our planet is very likely the same.

In 1610, Galileo Galilei observed the moons of Jupiter rotating around it. He described them as small planets orbiting a larger planet—a description (and observation) that was very difficult for the church to accept, as it challenged a geocentric model where everything was supposed to revolve around the Earth. This observation also showed that the planets (Jupiter, Neptune, and later Venus was observed too) are all spherical, and all orbit the sun.

[Related: Why is space cold if the sun is hot?]

A flat planet (ours or any other planet) would be such an incredible observation that it would pretty much go against everything we know about how planets form and behave. It would not only change everything we know about planet formation, but also about star formation (our sun would have to behave quite differently to accommodate the flat-earth theory) and what we know of speeds and movements in space (like planets’ orbits and the effects of gravity). In short, we don’t just suspect that our planet is spherical. We know it.

8. Consider the existence of time zones

The time in New York, at the moment these words are written, is 12:00 p.m. The sun is in the middle of the sky (though it’s hard to see with the current cloud coverage). In Beijing, it’s 12:00 a.m., midnight, and the sun is nowhere to be found. In Adelaide, Australia, it is 1:30 a.m. More than 13 hours ahead. There, the sunset is long gone—so much so, that the sun will soon rise up again at the beginning of a new day.

This can only be explained if the world is round, and rotating around its own axis. At a certain point when the sun is shining on one part of the Earth, the opposite side is dark, and vice versa. That allows for time differences and time zones, specifically ones that are larger than 12 hours.

Another point concerning time zones, the sun, and Earth: If the sun was a “spotlight” (very directionally located so that light only shines on a specific location) and the world was flat, we would see the sun even if it didn’t shine on top of us (as you can see in the drawing below). Similarly, you can see the light coming out of a spotlight on a stage in the theater, even though you—the crowd—are sitting in the dark. The only way to create two distinctly separate time zones, where there is complete darkness in one while there’s light in the other, is if the world is spherical.

9. Feel the pull of gravity

Here’s an interesting fact about mass: It attracts things to it. The force of attraction (gravity) between two objects depends on their mass and the distance between them. Simply said, gravity will pull toward the center of mass of the objects. To find the center of mass, you have to examine the object.

Consider a sphere. Since a sphere has a consistent shape, no matter where on it you stand, you have exactly the same amount of sphere under you. (Imagine an ant walking around on a crystal ball. From the insect’s point of view, the only indication of movement would be the fact the ant is moving its feet—the shape of the surface would not change at all.) A sphere’s center of mass is in the center of the sphere, which means gravity will pull anything on the surface of the sphere straight down toward the center of the sphere. This will occur no matter where on the surface the object is located.

Consider a flat plane. The center of mass of a flat plane is in its center, so the force of gravity will pull anything on the surface toward the middle of the plane. That means that if you stand on the edge of the plane, gravity will be pulling you sideways toward the plane’s middle, not straight down like you usually experience when you stand on Earth.

I am quite positive that, even for Australians, an apple falls downwards, not sideways. But if you have your doubts, I urge you to try dropping something—just make sure it’s nothing that can break or hurt you.

[Related: Have we been measuring gravity wrong this whole time?]

Here is some further reading about the center of mass and distribution of mass. And if you are brave enough to handle some equations (not involving integration), you can learn more about Newton’s Law of Universal Gravitation.

10. Browse images from space

In the past 60 years of space exploration, we’ve launched satellites, probes, and people into space. Some of them got back, some of them still float through the solar system (and almost beyond it), and many transmit amazing images to our receivers on Earth. In all of these photos, the Earth is (wait for it) spherical. The curvature of the Earth is also visible in the many photos snapped by astronauts aboard the International Space Station. You can see recent examples on the ISS Instagram account.

You know what they say—a picture is worth a thousand diss tracks.

This post has been updated. It was originally published on January 26, 2016.

The post 10 ways you can tell the Earth is round appeared first on Popular Science.

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Some corners of the internet act as bastions of healthy discussion, but out there on the Wild Web, discourse appears worse than ever before. If you’re tired of feeling your blood boil every time you get to the bottom of an article or open up your social media app of choice, it’s time to clean up your internet conversations.

Block comments on news sites and blogs

Some sites are doing away with comments altogether, but there are plenty that have stuck by their discussion section—even if it’s littered with spam and hateful garbage. You can’t stop commenters from spewing their filth, but you can banish them from your view. Shut Up is a simple open-source tool that will automatically block most comment sections across the web. It’s available as an extension for Google Chrome, Mozilla Firefox, Apple’s Safari, Microsoft Edge, and Opera. Just install it on your desktop or mobile platform of choice, and comment sections will disappear as if they were never there.

If there’s a site that you actually like to read comments on—yes, there are a few decent ones out there—you can click the Shut Up button in your toolbar or press Ctrl+Shift+X to whitelist that site. It will remember your preferences, so your favorite comment sections will stay visible no matter how many times you leave and return. Sadly, there’s no way to mute certain comments based on keywords.

Note that due to the way Chrome’s annoyingly broad permission system works, this extension will request access to read and edit data on all sites you visit, but you can read the developer’s privacy policy to ensure you agree with it. Afterward, if you’re still uneasy, you can always inspect and inject the Shut Up CSS code yourself, if you have a stylesheet extension you like.

Mute words on Twitter, Instagram, and other social networks

Website and blog comments are just a small fraction of toxic internet conversation—most of it happens on social media. Shut Up will block comment sections on some networks, like Facebook and Reddit, but that defeats the purpose of using those platforms at all. Thankfully some services, like Twitter and Instagram, have caught on and built “mute” functions that let you hide comments that contain certain keywords, for more control over what you see.

On Twitter, you can mute tweets with certain words or phrases by heading to the Twitter website and clicking More on the sidebar to the left. Next, go to Settings and Support > Settings and privacy > Privacy and safety > Mute and block > Muted words. Finally, click the plus icon in the top right to add words to your list. In the mobile app, the steps are nearly identical, but you start by tapping your avatar in the upper left-hand corner of your screen and build a list of muted words by using the Add button at the bottom right.

When you add the words you want to avoid, you can also select how long you want to mute it—which is useful if you’re just trying to avoid spoilers for a few days.

If you want to do a little less work, you can also turn on the switches under the Offensive words and phrases heading at the top of the page to hide comments or message requests containing any words Instagram thinks you won’t want to see.

Other social networks, like Reddit, don’t have a mute feature built-in. However, browser extensions like the ever-popular Reddit Enhancement Suite will allow you to mute comments with certain words just the same. Install the extension and open the RES Settings Console. Navigate to Subreddits > filteReddit, and create filters to your heart’s content. You can hide posts with specific terms in the title, or block posts that come from chosen websites. You can also build filters for comments, provided you know how regular expressions work—there’s a small tutorial available if you need it.

Finally, Facebook is in a weird spot when it comes to muting or filtering comments. Back in June of 2018, Facebook began testing a feature called Keyword Snooze that would allow you to hide any comment containing words you specified. It wasn’t available to everyone and that test ended in January 2021. Now, your best bet is to hit the three dots in the top right corner of any post on your News Feed and choose Hide post to see fewer posts like it. From the same menu, you can snooze and unfollow the person or page that posted it.

The post How to block toxic comments everywhere appeared first on Popular Science.

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Google has become so synonymous with search that the company’s name has found its way into the dictionary as a verb—and that means your Google search history can reveal a lot about your life. If someone manages to gain access to that treasure trove of information, they could learn about everything from the medical conditions you’ve been worried about to where you’ve been on your vacations.

With so much sensitive data involved, you should make sure that your search history is safe from prying eyes. There are ways to make extra-sure that no outsiders can get a glimpse at what you’ve been looking for, and to block Google itself from knowing anything about your online queries.

Put a password on your Google search history

Your Google account is protected by both a password and two-factor authentication if you’ve switched that on (we recommend you do). That should minimize the risk of anyone else being able to log in and take a peek at what you’ve been searching for, but you can do more.

If you’re on a computer where you’re regularly logged into Google, your browser has your password saved, and other people (maybe housemates or colleagues) are likely to be wandering past, you might feel like an additional layer of security is required. Or maybe you’re just very private and security-conscious.

For these situations, Google has created an extra password step just for your search history. Even if someone makes it to your Google account page, they’ll need your password to enter the search history section.

You can enable this by going to your Google account page, and choosing Data & privacy from the options on the left. Scroll down to the History settings box, click Web & App Activity, and then hit Manage all Web & App Activity at the bottom of the page. Finally, click Manage My Activity verification, fill in the bubble next to Require extra verification, and hit Save.

Automatically delete your Google searches

Google will automatically clean up your search history, if you want it to. Go to your Google account page, click Data & privacy, find the History settings heading, and click Web & App Activity to open the Activity Controls page. There, find the Auto-delete section and click the time period underneath to open a dialog box full of customization options. Use the dropdown menu to tell Google to automatically delete search history data older than three, 18, or 36 months.

Back on the Activity Controls page, if you choose Manage all Web & App Activity instead of opening the auto-delete options, you can manually wipe everything you’ve ever searched for, or just some of it. Use the search and filter options to look for something specific, and either the Delete box directly under the search bar or the X buttons next to individual entries to get rid of what you want to erase.

[Related: How to purge all of your search histories]

You can also use the Activity Controls page to just tell Google to stop tracking your activity altogether. To do so, find the Web & App Activity heading and click Turn off. Then hit Pause, followed by Got it to confirm that this is actually what you want to do. This will remain off until you decide to turn it back on. For a clean slate, click Manage all Web & App Activity at the bottom of the page to see your activity, then hit Delete and All time to erase everything, or use whatever other options suit you.

Avoid Google entirely